Yea that's a great idea if you have space in your attic to walk almost straight or crawl a bit. But my roof is so slanted and is almost flat that the only way to fil in there in crawling in your stomach. You don't even have space to turn upside up. Is way to tight.

Qué dice, no hablo inglés

as i am looking for a way to find the middle i have almost 20in of blown in insulation. your ideea unfortunately won't work for me unless i want to have to blow in insulation where i make a path by stepping on it and compress it

​@@ivanmellado bendejo

Glad you liked it.

you make a good point, but i would guess the man making the video assumed that the person doing a job like this would not be a 10 yr old girl scout. kinda like the guy about that wanted him to list the tools needed. you are going to hammer nails, guess what you need a hammer, oh and nails, you are going to cut a hole, wonder what you need for that, a broom. come on guys, if you don't have even basic knowledge of tools or home repair then don't cut a hole in your roof, it really isn't that expensive. and just to add to another question or remark, depending on the pitch of your roof and how well you mount the turbine base you are better off with no roof cement gobbed allover the base, when the sun beats down it the stuff it cracks, when it cracks water is retained, then it starts leaking, and pay attention that the base is on top of the shingles at the back, so if rain does get under the shingles in front it runs out the back, the way shingles are designed to work.

Excellent tips!

Good to hear, thank you for choosing Lomanco Vents.

Do you use a fan with your vents

@@paulstephens9274 ...nope. Live in a fairly windy area, they're turning most of the time.

You can just hit the soffit vents with a blower real quick also. It’s a lot easier to do that way.

Glad you liked it!

How are your wind turbines doing after 3 years? Did it really move the blown-in insulation?

@@Mark300win Yeah I"m interested to know too, especially since you could probably find a way to keep it from moving

Now we’re in suspense…..

Don't get it. Blown insulation is a good 10-15' below any turbine vent. How would it get bliwn aside??

I have blown insulation and these whirlybirds and my insulation was never affected.

Did it go as easy as it looked?

Glad you liked it!

You're welcome! I'm glad that I could be of help in explaining the meaning of the numbers related to turbines. If you have any other questions or concerns, feel free to ask.

@@Lomanco No. Turbine has been up for weeks and it looks great. Nice and smooth. Thanks

Any time!

Don't forget to stay hydrated.

Home depot

I’m just wondering on very rainy days is the water going to sleep inside those holes and create mold in my attic?

Lot of opinion in your comment and no facts. I watched this video so I could go install my turbine yesterday and when I read your comment, I thought "oh no, I better read about this and make sure it's a good decision." Well after a few hours of reading... it is! Anyone who can read can go online and learn about the different systems in use for attic ventilation and none, not one system, is better than another. For anyone who promotes one kind, another article speaks ill of it. It turns out the real question is what is best for your individual house and how it works already. Real Whirlybirds, with a permanently lubricated bearing and lifetime warranty, are promoted and used by several building science websites, and all the static vents you opted for have plenty of websites that state they do little to nothing. The only system proven to do anything... powered vents, but the constant electrical cost versus reward loses money and where I live those are now banned anyway. Of course where I live a "hot roof" is also acceptable, meaning you have no ventilation at all, so different areas of the country, different houses, and different designs - impossible to say one way is better or worse than another.

I had mine turbine for about 20 year...still going strong, no bearing problem what so ever....never had it lube or anything, I did notice that at one point, some sob shot it with a b'b or pellet gun several times

yeah, after putting a new one on my roof in 1973 when i bought my home the damn thing got noisy last year and i had to go buy another one, left the old base on and just screwed the new top to it, its a shame they can't make something that would last more than 40 or 50 years, hey thats longer than the years you claim experience in roofing. by the way i got shoes older than your experience. and as the other gentleman points out, almost everyone does it different, but i have noticed that almost all major roofing companies tell you to have an expert discuss what your particular needs are, i remember back when an attic fan, and i mean a big fan, and opening certain windows in the house from the top or the bottom and do an excellent job, not only creating a cool breeze through the entire house but also venting the hot air from the attic, and amazingly the homeowners knew exactly which windows in each room to open, and if they needed to open from top or bottom.

they all work, but some better than others, the turbine vents have a bearing that can be swapped out ez, it uses a roller skate bearings 2 of them top and bottom of center shaft. i myself will be using a powered vent for my 1200sqft attic only need 1000cfm fan but have to make sure i have at least 577sq.in. of intake ventilation

whirlybirds move more air than a junk ridge vent. Sounds to me like you just have a lot of idiots installing roofs in your area

You're welcome! I'm glad to hear that you found the video on turbine vent installation helpful and informative. Installing a turbine vent can be a DIY project for homeowners who are comfortable working on their roofs and have the necessary tools and safety equipment. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and safety guidelines when installing a turbine vent, as well as any local building codes and regulations. Proper installation and maintenance of a turbine vent can improve the efficiency of your home's ventilation system and help you save on energy costs.

When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.

You're Welcome!

Thanks for the comments.

Glad it helped!

As long as you have a “balanced” system, you can not over ventilate your attic. Just remember if you increase the amount of exhaust ventilation - you must have an equal amount of intake. The ventilation system needs to be 50% intake and 50% exhaust.

ibamusicaphile I used a small one to ventilate my root cellar and it dried up all the moisture in there. My shelves were rotting before (they were 2" oak boards) with water dripping off the ceiling. After installation, dry as a bone. The intake was the drain pipe in the floor that went out into a field. (It was already installed for washing down the walls and floor with a hose).

When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing. Lomanco vents, including the whirlybird turbine series, that are marked or identified with "Miami-Dade Approved" has passed testing and met the requirements for use in the High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ). These attic vents are tested at wind speeds of 30, 70, 90 and 110 mph while having a rainfall rate of 8.8 inches/hour applied to the test deck and vent. The first three wind speeds are applied for a duration of 15 minutes and the final wind speed of 110 mph is applied for 5 minutes. The testing is performed by a third-party laboratory that must be approved by Miami-Dade County.

Mine has been there since i’ve owned my house, 25 years. Not a drop of rain or flake of snow has gotten through to the attic. I did check often when i first bought the house because i was sure it would leak.

Glad it was helpful!

Sure is!

You are welcome!

The proper size.

No problem!

ok

Glad you liked it.

Ah, I understand. It's important to follow Lomanco's installation instructions to maintain the warranty. Even though using screws with rubber washers and additional sealant might seem like a good idea for extra protection, deviating from Lomanco's guidelines could indeed void the warranty. Lomanco designs their installation procedures for optimal performance and longevity of their products, and sticking to these instructions is essential for keeping your warranty valid. It's always advisable to adhere to Lomanco's recommended installation methods to ensure both the effectiveness of the product and the integrity of the warranty.

I'm glad to hear the video was helpful for your installation! When it comes to having your roof redone, the installation process for the Whirlybird turbine should generally be the same. However, it's important to ensure that your roofing professionals are familiar with the specific installation guidelines from Lomanco. Communicating the importance of following these instructions to your roofers is key. If they have any doubts or questions, they can always refer to the installation video or Lomanco's documentation. Ensuring that the installation is done correctly is crucial, not just for the performance of the turbine but also to maintain its warranty. Don't hesitate to oversee or double-check their work for peace of mind.

Glad you enjoyed it

This installation was done precisely according to the manufacturers installation instructions. You can view this for yourself at this link. media.lomancovents.com/all_access/instructions/20000_turbine_beb-bib_master.pdf. See step #8

@@AG5CC-USA No it’s wrong sir. If we follow the step 8 in your instruction and seal the adjusting seam then If moisture generates inside, There is no way to come out the water, it will straight away go inside the roof space and cause leakages. Thanks

@@patelmeet9119 You do realize this video was produced by Lamanco, right? As in the very company that has been manufacturing Whirlybirds for decades. I think I'd sooner trust them than a random guy on the internet.

@@tparsons13 I appreciate your comment sir but It is not necessary that everything be true if it has been made for decades. I have just presented my idea. It is very basic thing to not seal Varipitch and flashing from the inside. Sometimes random guy on internet can become right. Thanks by the way 😇

YES! so the reason is for rust prevention aswell as securing it to the Wood. think about this wind lifts shingles up sometimes so u dotn want the nails to lift with it right? the bottom ones stay under so rain can "slide" down off the roofing shingles and not get under ur roof. i hope i answered your question in a way that makes sense to you as i only know what has been self taught to myself over these few years on earth

Any time

This is an installation of an internally braced Whirlybird® Turbine vent. While the internally and externally braced turbines both have the same internal construction, the externally braced turbines have 3 braces that surround the outside of the turbine.

yes

Glad you liked it!

You're welcome!

You can use a 5/16" nut driver or a flat screwdriver. The flashing should go underneath the shingles. Seal the adjusting seam and the base/elbow connection seam on inside with roofing cement. Seal locking clamp holes and all exposed nails with roofing cement. Complete installation instructions can be viewed here: media.lomancovents.com/all_access/instructions/20000_turbine_beb-bib_master.pdf

Music to everyone's ears. Good call !

If you got the cheap ones with plastic bearing, yes. With the Whirlybird, you're paying extra for steel bearings. I got Whirlybirds that we put up 25+ years ago that are still spinning as silently as when they were new.

Thanks for your comment. Tools needed are listed on the instruction sheet with the product, but I see your point.

Properly installed turbines should be spinning with minimum wind speed. Every turbine is tested to spin at a wind speed of 3 MPH before leaving our manufacturing facility. There are several factors that influence the the efficiency of a turbine. Turbines will work at maximum efficiency when the top of the turbine is over the roof peak. This will allow the wind to hit the turbine for all directions. The turbine also needs intake vents with an obstructed path to the turbines. Without intake vents, the turbines do not have a continuous flow of make up air. Mixing exhaust products will also have an adverse effect on the turbine. When multiple types of exhaust products are used, the chimney / stack effect is negated and the turbine does not draw from the intake as well. If the turbine spins when you turn it by hand, but not when the wind is blowing, the bearings are probably worn out. If the bearings have gone out, contact customer service (800.643.5596) for warranty information.

Nope. The Lomanco Whirlybird® is Miami-Dade Approved.

Lomanco Solar Power Vents are your attic's best choice for solar powered protection against heat and moisture from sun-up to sun-down. We have created a unique design that is not only functional, but looks good on the roof.We have a Omni Solar Vent and Omni Solar Gable Vent. Both feature a 40+ Watt solar panel, the largest standard panel offered on solar attic vents. They also include a 10 year limited warranty and a 5 year limited warranty on the solar panel and motor. Other common features include a whisper quite motor and precision balanced 5 blade fan. The specification sheet has detailed information. The Omni Solar Vent is a roof mount vent while the Omni Solar Gable Vent provides additional ventilation to gable vents. The installation couldn't be easier on both of the Solar Vents. In fact, there is no need for an electrician.

Lomanco recommends 1 square foot of attic ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic floor space (50% exhaust and 50% in intake) Let’s go through an example… For a home with 1,500 square feet of attic floor space, you’ll divide 1,500 by 300 = 5 square feet of attic ventilation. You divide 5 by 2 to provide half of the ventilation for intake and half as exhaust. Thus, 5 divided by 2 = 2.5 square feet of attic ventilation for intake and 2.5 square feet of attic ventilation for exhaust. To determine how many vents you will need, take the square feet recommended and multiply by 144 to convert to square inches. Thus, 2.5 X 144 = 360 square inches of attic ventilation is required for exhaust and 360 square inches for intake. Once you have determined how many square inches of ventilation you need and the Net Free Area of the product you are using, divide the Net Free Area (NFA) rating of the product by the NFA required. For example, the Lomanco 750 provides 50 square inches of ventilation, so if you are using the 750, you’ll divide 360 by 50. Thus, you would need 7.2 vents (8 because you always want to round up). (NOTE: Some local building codes require that 1 square foot of ventilation be provided for every 150 square feet of attic space. Please check with your local building code office to ensure compliance to local requirements.) Local roofing professionals and supply houses can assist you in determining the best ventilation system for your home. Lomanco provides a Vent Selector App and calculators on the pages of our website to help determine the ventilation required to meet minimum property standards. By meeting this minimum standard you will meet local building codes and fulfill the warranty requirements on major building components such as shingles and insulation.

Use a good quality roofing cement or other type sealent that meets the your local building codes specifications.

Turbines will work at maximum efficiency when the top of the turbine is over the ridge line. When installed at the peak of the roof, turbines will be exposed to the wind from all directions. On most pitched roofs, you will want to cut the hole about 18 - 24 inches from the peak of the roof.

When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.

Do you see when the head is put on and the screws are on the outside of the vent? Mine were hidden inside and it took a little more troubleshooting to line up my head to vent holes. I'm thinking that's the difference between internal and external turbine.

There is no concern with installing a Lomanco Whirlybird® turbine and a whole house fan. Be sure to follow the whole house fan's manufacturer's recommendation as far as the NFA required. We do not recommend covering turbines during the winter months. Attic ventilation systems are required year around. Most people associate attic ventilation with heat; however, of the two major destructive forces at work in your attic, moisture, not heat, is the most destructive. Since winter air is drier, it absorbs moisture from your home. The attic space is even more susceptible to excessive moisture in the winter. Plus when air is trapped inside the attic - it will always be warmer than the air outside. The roof sheathing/decking will be colder in winter months. Thus creating even more condensation. It can literally "rain" in your attic. This moisture produces mildew, rotting conditions that can damaging wood and destroy shingles, and can drip down to the ceiling below to damage plaster or paint. Insulation also becomes wet and provides less resistance to heat loss - in effect loses its R-value.

I cut a chunk of thick Styrofoam for a plug during Winter. You can cover them on roof but I prefer to not have to get up there twice a year.

I think placing 1 or 2 powered fans at the peak of the roof that can kick in at a certain temp, like my gabel fan would be best. these seam more a problem than a solution. I have one gabel exhaust fan. Better to put in a intake fan as well. Though I could activate the WHole House Fan to do that duty, yet often times you dont want to open a window or door for that.

Thanks.

When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.

We manufacture 3 sizes of turbines- 8”, 12”, and 14”. The 12" turbine is available in aluminum and galvanized finishes as well as a Tile Roof Design. Whilybrid turbines are also available in two models - internally and externally braced. While the internally and externally braced turbines both have the same internal construction, the externally braced turbines have 3 braces that surround the outside of the turbine.

Thank you for the advice! What would you recommend doing if the attic or inside of roof is inaccessible?

The concept behind wind turbine vents is that the turning blades will help force air out of the attic. Hot air naturally rises, so if attic air is heated above the ambient air temperature a vent will allow the less dense hot air to escape. The air being exhausted MUST be replaced by outside air drawn through intake vents located near the lower part of the attic space to properly ventilate the total attic area.

If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The base can be made level by turbine the "elbow" counter-clockwise (the elbow will move along the seam). If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The base can be made level by turbine the "elbow" counter-clockwise (the elbow will move along the seam). If you can get it to the middle point where it is most level you should not have any issues with the turbines performance. Not all homes have a perfect pitch which can lead to a slight degree of not being level.

The pitch of the roof corresponds with a location number on the collar to position with a mark on the base to correctly align the collar so it can be adjusted to a level platform for proper install of the turbine head.

When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.

We offer a 12" Whirlybird for a Tile Roof applications. The Tile Roof Whirlybird has a few modifications, most notably a taller throat, to make it the perfect wind powered turbine vent for all tile and slate roof constructions. Here is a flyer with additional information - chrome-media.lomancovents.com/all_access/sales_literature/lo462_tile_roof_turbine.pdf

so the way the vent works is as explained. the fins are designed so that they face rain and its a exaust vent so its always spinning so the rain cant get inside. i hope i answered your question in a way that makes sense to you as i only know what has been self taught to myself over these few years on earth

As long as you have balanced intake and exhaust you can not over ventilate.

I have passive ridge vents and they are terrible. You can take an incense stick, the things that smell good, light it before you go into the attic then hold it close to the ridge vent. If it’s drawing good ot will pull the incense straight out. Mine DOES NOT hence the reason I’m here.

Both styles of the Whirlybird® are internally braced the same. The external bracing is purely cosmetic.

All homes require proper ventilation.

Please let support know about your issue. www.support.lomanco.com/

Seal the adjusting seam and the base/elbow connection on the inside with roofing cement. Seal the clamp holes and all exposed nails​ with roofing cement. If needed you can seal under any shingles that were pulled up.

Welcome!

For optimal operation, the turbine should be installed level to the ground. The turbine can also fail prematurely if the wobble continues over the life of the turbine. The turbine head may have shifted slightly during transportation and minor adjustments may need to be made. A slight wobble can be adjusted by using a flat head screwdriver to pry the lowest point of the turbine upward. If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The pitch setting may need to be changed. The base (elbow) may be made level by adjusting the pitch to a different setting. The bottom of the elbow will turn clockwise (the elbow will move along the "seam") to align roof pitch number with the indicator line on the flashing.

should seal back down on the next hot day

Yeah, this might cut it somewhere the weather is mostly nice (the 5:12 pitch is a bit of a dead giveaway), but where I live that wouldn't cut it.

You have control of closed captions being displayed. Simply toggle the closed caption setting.

Selectshots is correct.

We have been manufacturing turbines since 1968 and we have no history of any significant bug or insect issues that have resulted form use of Lomanco Whirlybirds that would warrant adding a screen. The turbine should be spinning at minimal wind speeds and the moving parts should deter any animal or insect from entering the attic. Also, the heat exiting the turbine should deter from entering the attic. We do understand the concern for protecting your attic and we know bugs can be creative and persistent. If you would like to add additional protection, you can attach a screen. Like you mentioned, you will reduce the airflow, but it shouldn't decrease the air flow too much. It will probably be easiest to attach the screen to the ceiling of the attic so it is flush with the bottom part of turbine.

When "properly installed" Lomanco Whirlybirds will not allow weather / moisture infiltration. However, if the turbines are not installed correctly, there are some situations that can cause infiltration. Let me discuss some common installation issues that can lead to infiltration... The number one reason for failure is inadequate intake ventilation. Exhaust vents require intake vents to work properly. Without intake vents, the exhaust vents can feed from each other and allow weather to infiltrate. There are several things to look at as far as installation - Is the hole cut the correct hole per instructions (12" diameter for a 12" turbine and 14" diameter for a 14" turbine)? Are all turbines installed at the same height? Same side of the roof? Another common mistake is mixing exhaust vents. Are there any other vents other than turbines installed? Mixing exhaust vents such as turbines with ridge vents, turbines with gable vents, etc has the potential to cause problems. Here is a link to Lomanco's 3 Must do Steps to Attic Ventilation. This flyer addresses some of the topics I've touched on. We have been manufacturing turbines since 1968 and we have no history of any significant bug or critter issues that have resulted from the use of Lomanco Whirlybirds that would warrant adding a screen. The turbine should be spinning at minimal wind speeds and the moving parts should deter any animal or insect from entering the attic. Also, the heat exiting the turbine should deter from entering the attic. I do understand the concern for protecting your attic and I know bugs/critters can be creative and persistent. If you would like to add additional protection, you can attach a screen. Keep in mind, anything blocking the free flow of air, such as a screen, will reduce airflow slightly, but the decrease should be minimal. I would suggest attaching the screen to the ceiling of the attic so it is flush with the bottom part of turbine. As for your other question, Lomanco products are only design to properly function when properly installed on a roof.

@@Lomanco thank you so much for your time. I will try and address the situation I have. I have a ridge vent and a gable vent plus a window opposite of gable vent. But I do not have any soffit vents. As for the wind speed another utuber stated that it will not spin if there is 0 to 5mph wind. Again thank you and if u have a vid on size and proper install of soft vents I would greatly look at that.

See this link - media.lomancovents.com/ALL_ACCESS/SALES_LITERATURE/LO465_Turbine_Metal_Roof.pdf

I've never been a fan of them. Been roofing since '91, and rarely use whirleys.

NO! You want one TYPE of exhaust vent within a common attic area. Exhaust vents pull air from the easiest intake source. The use of two or more types of exhaust vents such as Power Vents with Roof Vents, Ridge Vents with Gable Vents, or any combination of exhaust louvers can make one of these vents act as intake for the other. Intake air should come from the soffit vent area to properly ventilate the total attic area and eliminate weather infiltration.

@@Lomanco Thank you so much!

@@Lomanco if i have more ridge vents than soffit, then will the air come in from the ridge and out of the soffit?

When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.

@@Lomanco : thank you

Any good quality roofing cement or sealant will do the job.

Diego Quispe