It's a sub panel and you need a ground buss. Your neutrals and grounds need to be separated. Your green wire is your equipment ground. The ground and neutral will tie together on neutral bar at main panel. I am an electrical contractor in Kansas. Now am 71 semi retired but still do some electrical contracting. Just did a house with 3 sub panels all required 4 wires. They go back to main panel and ground and neutral tie together on neutral buss. Main panels your allowed to put grounds and neutrals together but not in a sun panel. You also do not use the bonding screw in your sub panel. Everything ties back at the main, it's called center point grounding. It has to do with safety and ground fault currents. Hope that helps.

I put in a separate meter panel for my pole structure, and fed it with 4/0 cable. The panel I used was a 200 amp panel with room for 60 smaller breakers. The 4/0 wires are hard to work with! I put the panel "upside down" so the wires did not have to be run up the side of the panel (the wires are fed from the bottom like yours) and this made it easier to attach the wires since the main breaker was at the bottom. Thanks for the video!

respectfully submitted, thanks for your constructive comment, he did nice workmanship anyway thanks guys

My man!!! I follow your homebrew channel already. I was just looking up what size panel I should install for my brewery upgrade, and here I find you! The man that does it all haha.

I just got this box for my pole barn thanks for the video!

I love it need one of these panel in my barn

I follow you on your brewing channel. Interesting stuff and it's applicable to me as I intend to build a barn/carriage-house/MIL-house in a couple years. Thanks for sharing.

put 4 screws and flat larger washers to secure the panel, keep it strong-good video!

I always install and plan a Double Pole breaker at the top right side closest to the main breaker to anticipate a future generator install. I like to prewire it to my outside generator inlet box early (now) while the box is empty, you will be glad you did, when it is time for the generator.

I definitely agree you need to install a ground wire to the ground bus bar (which is not installed) a ground wire from the ground rods in the ground or a ground wire from the main panel to the sub panel. Without a good ground wire, you are at risk for a shock or a leakage of voltage in the panel where you don't want it to be.

I am replacing a sub panel that I want to hookup a generator to and have have to replace the sub panel as there is no main shutoff. Need to put a panel with a main shutoff so I can install an interlock switch to make it compliant for when I need generator so this helped explain somewhat on how to rewire a panel.

Thank you very much for sharing this information

Very informational thank you I’m doing a tiny home

Nice thanks for helping me out!!!!

Thank you...I did learn some rule electrical from you .

Noalox/Penetrox/Anti-Oxidant would be helpful on the feeder wire connection to the lugs.

Thank you so much Brian!

Saw when you put the connector on the bottom,the lock nut was cross threaded, then the magic of editing it was straight

Power circuit boxes and fuses wow!

Neutral feed should have white electrical tape around it's insulation/jacket at the point of termination. Also stranded wires should be tightened, wiggled, and tightened again several times to ensure a good fire-free installation. You don't want to over tighten the wires, just gently(at the torque spec), squish/flatten the strands out.

All aluminum conductors must have anti-oxidation compound as per NEC. You did not say if your green bonding screw was removed or not (very important to remove it in a sub panel). Only your main service panel (the first distribution panel where your utility feed come into) can have this bonding screw installed. The bonding screw in every downstream sub panel from the main service panel MUST BE REMOVED. You must have a ground wire (usually #6 or greater) run from the main service panel to every sub panel. ALSO You definitely need to use 4 wires, 1 neutral, 2 hots and a ground wire. That panel is a electrical hazard without a ground wire. I'm going to assume that the panel outside that you pictured in your video that your getting your power from is also a sub panel. In the outside panel you correctly identified the 3 current carrying conductors, 2 hots and a neutral, but there should also be a ground bar inside it with a #6 ground wire on it (or the green bonding screw installed if its your main service panel) and you have to tie that ground bar to the ground bar in the new panel with #6 or greater ground wire.

Brian - you did a great, organized vidoe. Thank you!

GREAT STUFF TKS FOR DOING A GOOD JOB DON'T FOR GET THE OXIDE. ONLY FOR ALUMIMUM WIRE.

I can see the comments. and to many people gonna say the things they don't do it.....thank i appreciate your help...

From the top, he said he was not a licensed electrician, therefore, don't criticize because he make a video and you pros didn't. Some of us appreciate guys like this who can help people save some money, and we can check our local codes for free. This is not something we need a college degree to do, just get the local advise from a pro and code. Do it yourself, and if you burn you own house down, You own it. Good work Brian.

I don't know where you are, but here in Minnesota, you need to ground the panel separately from the feed. That means a grounding wire (#6 copper is fine) that goes either to nearby grounded plumbing or to an exterior grounding rod, 8-feet long copper. In a garage, that almost certainly means a grounding rod driven into the ground.

Great video

Thanks so much...i liked how you did the connection....

All Aluminum connections should have dielectric grease applied to them. I use a product called NOALOX. I am not sure what you have at the transformer. It looked like a meter/main combo. If that is the case then that would serve as your "first means of disconnect". At that point your grounds and neutrals should come together then just one neutral should go back to the transformer. But, inside that box by the transformer there should be a ground termination and a bonding screw that bond the neutral to the can and bring your grounds and neutrals together. That green ground wire in your 2-2-2-4 should have a terminal to attach to inside the meter/main by the transformer as well as a ground lug on your ground bar inside your new 100a panel. Hope this helps. If I am incorrect about what you have by the transformer then your new 100A panel servers as your first means of disconnect and you did the correct thing with the ground wire by folding it back but there was no mention of a bonding screw which is what ties your neutral bar to the box and effectively the ground. *EC state of FL*

Excelente Thank You

Good Work keep it coming

Just letting you know with aluminum conductors need a oxidizing agent on then such as nolox which prevents corrosion overtime

Nice, and Sefty Sir

Hey! If you get zapped you may get super powers! Take the chance and get back to me. 😉 Good stuff Brian. Cheers!

Brian,. Can you show your connections at the main meter panel

Thanks for this video. Please show the video of it connecting into the meter can

Brian you did a great job i just brought this panel at lowes keep up the good work bro...

Like Jerry Morris said. Ground and neutral separated for a sub panel. Ground rod for sub panel in detached building. Neutral & ground bonded only at first point of disconnect

Did you install a ground rod and grounding electrode conductor?

Awsome....thanks very much...i got the answer i needed...

I like I like what you showed it was simple it was easy and you are a good teacher😍🤪🤯😵🙈👨‍🏫👨‍💼🙏

My pet peeve *hurr-duh-durr* are the comments. Dude, you did a great job w/your disclaimer. You did a great job describing your process. I topped by just to see the HOM2040M100PC bc it's on sale for $69 but logged in just to leave a good comment. These youtube electricians should be out working. It's amazing the number of obviously licensed electricians w/nothing better to do but sit around and watch your videos recreationally.

if it is the main breaker panel, you should use a main bonding jumper to link the busbars to the box so the box is grounded. Always use nolax anti-oxidation on aluminum or any two different material conductors. I believe the box outside, the one with a meter is the main panel that makes your D box a secondary. check code book for taping rules, distance, side of the conductors, how deep you should dig, if you need to run conduits or PVC, most importantly, don't forget to call an inspector cuz the insurance will not likely to pay anything if there is not an inspection if something goes wrong.

great job.

you need to add nolox to the aluminum conductors to prevent oxidation.. with said oxidation its a serious fire hazard so that no lox is a must

My pet peeve other than not connecting the ground. Even if you think power is off don't connect a breaker while it is installed into the box. Check your length first, then pull that breaker out of the box connect your ground and your neutrals into separate buss bars then with the breaker out connect you hots to the breaker. Once that is done put some rubber insulated gloves on your hands and press the breaker in the panel with the switch in the off position. You will be less lickley to to touch the hot buss bar at the same time while installing the other wires and creating a circut. Plus your hands are wet you can be just inches from the panel and have a jump or arc, plus you don't know if you or someone else wired something else wrong down the line. Just remember even low voltage wires can cause heart arithmia or make your heart start beating wrong if you get electrocuted. Be safe

Good video but there is a few things I want to say. First this isn’t a big deal but you should mark your neutral wire with white tape and your second hot wire with red tape. Second your ground (the green wire) should be connected to the ground bar in the panel. To a ground rod out side. Third because you have aluminum wire you have to put the jelly on it to keep it from corroding and oxidation because when that happens you will have trouble. Other than that really good video. And have a good day.

Hi . If I add a 100 amp sub panel , I need 2 of the 100amp breaker one for the main panel and one for sub right ?

is the box bonded,so you can use the same buzz bar for neutral and ground?great video

Can you talk about the main panel breaker I have no idea how they work, what they are called, how to get the right one for the pannel you have, if there are differences between: 120 n 240 panels, plug in neutral bar panels. Thank you Also how do you tell what volatage is coming into your panel?

I have an old fuse box in my garage that I'm replacing. My feed is coming from the main panel in the house underground to the garage. Both my black hot wires are going to the main fuses but my white is going to an outside earth ground and my green is going to the neutral bar inside the box with all the white neutral wires from all the lines coming in going to the receptacles, lights etc. I feel like the green and white should be switched? I'm getting ready to change the old fuse box to a sub panel breaker box.

Very very good

Where can I buy the safety gards so when I''m working on a existing panel I can put them on and later remove them?

good job

Good job for not putting the Shitte grease on the lugs its not NEC violation I never put anti oxide on the every Panel that I install

Besides the noox and expansion pipe, you also should have two grounding rods / ufer ground using 6 AWG coper...

With respect. You need to have an expansion fitting on your nonmetallic conduit. With a Square D home line panel you need to add an additional separate grounding bus bar to terminate your number four grounding wire and a 8 foot ground rod with number six copper

Just built 2 add on rooms need to wire how will that work where it's not new service main house has power already was just going to hook into panel that's already there can I do that

Can i put a 100 amp box in my shop and wire shop like you did but run the other end to a 100 amp breaker in the main panel at house,it has 200 amp service

Hi great video ,I did myself but now I need to fill it up the comed form so I could get service in my house, I'll need help

Nice to see Mario Batali branching out into other fields... Just kidding - great vid!

Thanks for sharing your knowledge very informative, it inspired me to focus more making electrical video

Make sure to use anti ox on your big connections so they don’t corrode!

Good video

Really wanted to see how you got that pvc in with the panel installed already

Can you install those yellow safety clips while the power is on to the house or do I need to disconnect from outside.

What about no-ox for the aluminum service connections?

I have a 10X16 shed and will get a 100AMP circuit box with 6 space 12 circuit indoor surface mount with cover. I want to have 2 overhead lights and 3 electrical outlets 120 volts and a small hard wired space heater.

Brian, Please answer some questions! Is there a main circuit breaker outside at the meter location? Did you connect the 4 th conductor to ground lug outside the shed? Did you remove the neutral to ground bond in the shed? Did you drive a ground rod at the meter, shed, or both? These answers would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

and the ground?

👍👍👍thanks

As a nonelectrician I find this to be an interesting project. I hope a fully qualified electrician will chime in to offer constructive advice to help all of us. I thought a separate ground rod was required for a separate building, but maybe you've got a rod in the adjacent meter area. Some here have remarked that neutral and ground need to be separated, but this looks like a main panel to me since you seem to be fed directly from the meter. If the meter is a distance from the panel, and neutral and ground are bonded at the meter, I don't know if bonding is allowed again at the main panel. It would be wise to keep ground wires all together in the panel. If you change your mind, separating ground from neutral may be as easy as unscrewing a bonding bar. Some have remarked that the wire is not correct for 100A, but from my reading of tables for 3 or fewer conductors, #2 Al is OK to 100A in the 90 deg C column. The question boils down to whether termination temperatures require derating of the wire. The terminal lugs at the panel should be fine to 90 deg, I'm not sure about the breaker, I don't know about the terminal at the meter but I would be surprised if derating is needed there. So, I will guess that when a qualified electrician stops by he will agree with the wire size for a 100 A panel feed. The professionally-installed subpanel in my home is #2 Al for a 100A feed. Whenever I do a project like this I get advice from the inspector before walking into possible trouble.

My brother in law ran water lines and electricity to my garage where my parents live. The problem is that when my mom turns on microwave and minisplit ac it trips the breaker and also a combination of other appliences. The garage has a lot of outlets and I think they are on a 20amp breaker with a 14 gauge romex cable and brother in law also got electricity from the exiating 220 0r 240 outlet in garage to add more stuff. When breaker trips the whole power goes out in garage and also in kitchen of the main house. I think circuit is overloading.I was thinking of adding a 60amp circuit to main box and running a new line to garage and in garage add one of this boxes Eaton Corporation Br816L125Fdp 6 Circuit Main Lug Load Center, 125-Amp??? Also will I need to cancell all existing outlets and start from

If there are so many problems tracing wires to find out where they belong, why don't they make different colored wires, or number them; so they can be assigned to different circuits? It seems like it would save time and trouble in the long run ?

II am not an electrician but doesn't a sub-panel have to have the neutral and ground bars isolated from each other? You mentioned running the neutral and ground wire into the neutral bar.

What did you do with the ground?

Can it be possible to run two main panels from one meter ? I need power in the apt downstairs

please explain if you only have a hot nutral and a ground how the breakers work

With the panel you are showing, would you be able to use solar as the main power source?

Yes, thank you

Hello just wanna know What happens to that green ground wire that you left in the box

Great video! Every EE I know would recommend wire strippers vs using a box knife - even the gentle-est application can score the cable - humble suggestion - great video - very helpful - would love to see how the final product looks! Final barn usage

Brian, why did you choose not to use a anti-oxidation compound on the aluminum leads? Did you choose aluminum because of the run from the meter?

Nice work. How about you coming by my garage and install a 240V line in my breaker panel so I can begin electric brewing like you, Brian? LOL

I believe if you can't visually see the main panel, you need a separate sub-panel disconnect . Brian, you may need another disconnect.

As an electrical engineer that worked over 30 years designing electrical systems for contractors, I have a few comments. The use of #2 Al for a 100 ampere service would be acceptable for a dwelling unit. This is not a dwelling unit so that table in the NEC can not be used. #2 is rated at 90 amps at 75 deg C. Terminals are rated at 75 deg, so 90 deg C column may not be used. Should have been #1. Since this is a "Service Entrance Panel" (I.E. coming from utility meter) there should be no ground in the conduit. You are required to Earth Ground ALL service entrance panels at the location of the main. Since you probably have no footing or metal pipe water entrance you are stuck with ground rods and be 25 ohms or less resistance. No meter to check, no problem, add second groundrod and done. For those saying add ground bar, absolutely not. That is for sub-panels only. The reason I commented is many people have viewed this and have gotten incorrect information not just from the video. Respectfully Submitted!

thanks, I am latinamerican.- your english is very understable for me.

My only suggestion is to land the ends of those wires onto the plywood to make the cutting easier and safer.

What is the naame of the alumni strip which feed the current to the breakers

How far did you have to run your feeder cable from the meter pole

Where is anti oxidation cream on the aluminum conductors?? Where is the green bonding screw on the neutral bar???

Hi Brian..I was advised that when using the aluminum wire it needed a compound between the tightening log and the wire or it will not pass inspection

Muy bien gracias

You forgot something in there, you should be using dielectric grease on the mains and the neutral being fed into the box, helps prevent corrosion, that exceeding important in environments that are harsh, non living spaces.

So the Romex cable neutral goes with the ground same location

Great video so I just bought a house from 1950's the service is coming underground is there a way to tell what size wire is coming in without pulling the meter? Right now I have 100 amp but want to upgrade to 200amp.

Like.the.job

after watching your brewing vids, I stumble upon this as I'm finishing a steel building I just had constructed. Are you running a separate service to your building? I saw the meter outside, so I thought I'd ask.

Is that considered a subpanel? Because I thought on sub-panels you can't have the neutral bar and the ground bar connected?

Good video. I just bought one today. Just a question will this panel require a ground rod? Also noticed you didn't use any nolox. Do you have to use it or not?