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I was under the impression this sensor was for ACTIVE vibration compensation until I saw this video, thank you.

Thank you for the video. Have been wondering how the bracket mounts to the hot-end. Now I know form your video.

Thanks for the good video. Now I know how to use it. 👍 I bought the sensor today and i try it on the next Print. I dont think that it will do something, because i already have a great print quality and no problems with vibrations. Greatings from Germany

Great video! I was quite baffled by the lack of instructions for this.

love your tutorials thx alot

Great stuff buddy

Thanks, makes a lot of sense now!

Great video my man!

Thank you for this video! How often would you have to recalibrate for vibration compensation?

Thanks! I bought an ender 3 v3 se and just upgraded to the Nebula kit. This is all new to me.

If i didnt see your videos, i would've let the G sensor sit on the hotend part we screw to it and think it was the good way to set this up +1 man, subscribed and liked !

Not the first video of yours I've found useful. Thanks. Also I was able to locate bed bracket position. There are two screw holes on the metal part on the right side of the bed, close to the big screw that is holding the bed.

Thank you for that :) I will admit, when you said I recommend the tape I said "na! I know what I am doing! screws go in" then.....I learnt a valuable lesson 🤣Got it all set up though so thank you!!

Great instructions. I just purchased my V3 KE and it updated the firmware right away so I don't know if that's why mine's different or what. Where yours says, "Optimization of vibration veins," mine says "Input shaping." Also I purchased the Creality Ender 3 V3 KE G-Sensor ADXL34 and it does not have the standard USB for power. It must draw it's power from the USB-C as that was all it had.

Good video..just installed this and did the tests on my KE I recently got in January. Question, how often do you recommend doing these tests? Im assuming the settings from it are saved and arent lost when you power down the machine. I tend to run the xyz calibrations upon every startup.

Can you do a video on the print qualities with and without the sensor?? does it make a difference???

Thank you. It was because I’d seen your video about this a few days ago that I was already schooled on how to run this test on my e3v3se using the nebula smart kit. Dumb question, is there any benefit leaving the sensor on the print head or isn’t that something we worry about on a stock non rooted nebula pad?

I have my printer in an enclosure which made this even more challenging as I had to mount the bracket to the hot end pretty much blind. The screws I received were not long enough to hold the sensor to the hot end bracket, so I went with double sided tape and then since I only received one set of screws to hold the brackets in place I went with double sided tape on the print bed for the y-axis calibration. You mention that you could use tape to mount the sensor to the hot end instead of the bracket. Where would you place the sensor if you did this? Would you just use double sided tape to stick it to the top of the hot end case? Thanks

Another cracking video mate, my new favorite channel :) I stopped using double sided tape when I found out about masking tape/CA/masking tape. I no longer want to spend 20 mins trying to strip the tape film..... I can't be the only one who has short nails, can't find the end, can't do it without peeling the whole thing off!

Would you do a video on how to do a profile for a 0.6mm nozzle? Thanks

Amazing video! Good and very clear instructions! Would you recommend an ender 3 KE? I print parts that need relatively good quality, dont need amazing quality but close.

Do you think nema 17 stepper dampers will fit on the ender 3 v3 ke? Especially the x and y axis

Heya my dude! Thank yoy for the video. Was hooing to follow it but creality sent me the sonoc pad kit insteas of the cable for the nebula. Did you get the g sensor cable in the kit or with the printer? Thank you for your coverage on this printer

Thank you for the video. A small question, in my case I root my printer in order to use orca slicer and then I used the G-sensor to calibrate input shaping . Do input shaping will work automatically or need to do something else in orca slicer?

Great video. So once you have done the calibration you don't need the sensor actively installed on the printer for every print? You keep it to do a recalibration every so often?

After the calibration is done do you remove the sensor off the machine or do you keep it mounted on the hotend or bedplate? thx great video.

Do they sell a different cord? Mine came w one of the old mouse keyboard multipin connections. I wanted the USB/Type C USB cord. Where did you get the cord ?

Hey bro, have you tried the "creality laser module" in this KE?

just a query. After the vibration calibration, do we need to attach the sensor at the head(printer) all the time or can we unplug the sensor and leave it in a drawer?

Hi, am I correct that it does not matter which orientation the sensor is when placed on the bed or on the hot end? I know it is placed flat on its bottom, but does it have to be oriented in a specific x or y direction? I ask because I have a small set of brackets that I printed, one that goes under the bed and one that sticks on the top of the hot end. When using those, the x/y direction is not aligned with the x/y direction of the printer bed. Thanks, Mark

I got this printer for my birthday (well i ordered it on my birthday Feb 14, it arrived later) I'm about to order the nebula camera and the sensor. I'm totally new to 3d printing. The 2 devices are very cheap, I'm just curious if you think they are worth getting for a beginner like me. I would hate for them to go out of print later and not be able to get them.

Thanks a lot ! Clear, short and precise content. I just have two questions about it ; - Once you've properly run the calibration, you don't need to keep the sensor on the machine, right ? I mean the cables makes it look like crap :') - Once the calibration done, is this what people call "input shaping" turned ON ? I'm very confused about input shaping honnestly.

mate your camera is fricking good! but you need to tuning your sound a bit so its doesnt have noise. good video, to the point!

Hello from Brasil! I buy for mistake the sensor, but connector is for PAD. Have any adaptor or way for make this work? Thanks

Hello, I saw on a post you did in the community that you were suffering from z-banding in the CR-10 SE. Were you able to solve it?

Would that print out work for the v3 se?

Hi I’m wondering if this can be installed on the standard Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board. I’ve just bought this nebula kit, but there seems to be nowhere the mount the G-sensor. Do you have any advice for me please?

my sensor it's the same by creality but it has only one usb c connection. Do I have to keep it installed during printings ?

I also have KE and bought the G-Senor (but with the PS/2 Cable for Sonic), as at my location its the only one available. Can anyone help me with the schematics/pinout-diagram to create the USB-C and USB-A connectors for the G sensor module? If its available I can make one myself.

It seems short sighted that they didn't program the calibration for the printhead to test multiple locations along the Z axis. I'm sure the vibration gets more pronounced as it goes higher

Tell me where to buy a cable for a nebula pad. or its name

I think it woild be helpful to explain the benefits of this, how often to do this if it needs to be repeated, or if you noticed any difference.

Does the tape not interfere with the vibration measurement?

I clicked the link you attached for the sensor but where did you find the cable?

Is it ok to use a 5v adapter for power instead of using a port?

Thanks for the video Can you send me the link of the cable of the g sensor I can't find it anywhere

So its not permanently attached? Just plugged in for the test and then i can remove it?

just wondering why you chose not to use the G sensor brackets available on the Creality VIP website? Also, why use the double-sided tape when there is a y-axis mount you can print.

should you remove the bracket when done or just leave it there?

can that be used on the cr-10 se??

Can you post the link where you got the sensor kit from?

do i leave the sensor connected after calibration??

Is there a way to revert the calibration optimization? I ran calibration and my printer now suuuuuucks. It was printing great before, and I only went through this process because I thought this sensor was a permanent add-on to the machine (like an ongoing upgrade). Thank you!

Wao!!! Muy buen video, lo tuve que ver traducido pero es muy completo, me encanta tu contenido, es de muchísima ayuda, gracias!

One thing is not clear for me - should I stick this sensor there forewer or it's something that I should use once per certain amount of time?

After the calibration, doni need to keep it installed and plugged in or can i unplug it an take it out??

Anyone know how to set up sensor on guppy screen??

the double sided tape you use. actually works as a vibration absorber. its not the best solution to use. better just tape it to the bed using some masking tape or gaffatape.

Official Hot End and Bed Mount, now available to my Members and Patreons

Mine does not have an optimization of vibration veins option

A ps/2 to ubs works?

Theres 2 screwholes on the underside of the bed for a vibration sensor, no tape required

In my Members feed, I have provided the official Creality STL files for both HOT END, and the BED. To be a member, Click here: kzfaq.info/love/bUb8QjvZiimB-8sN6oDl9Qjoin

Hhmmmm, my sensor didnt come with the USB a plug, just the usb c, and sure enough the vibration test doesnt come up un the menu. What gives!?

Video has no audio for me

main question is: how to pinout and connect ADXL345 to nebula pad

New source for the G Sensor, cheaper: amzn.to/3w2cfoA

x8 was a little overkill.. m3x4 is more than enough :D

TIP !!! USE COMAND HOOK STRIPS. They peal off easier.

Straaange, just got the sensor and there are only type-c connector..

Strange but where is an example of what happens if the sensor detects something that has gone wrong? Question=Newbie

I was on the Creality site using their chat to ask how to install this sensor on my KE and they sent me here, because apparently there are no official instructions. They should to write you a check! I hope Creality is at least sending you free hardware as a "thank you".

I'm in the process of moving from a "Ender3 Pro" to the "Ender3 V3 KE", and in the week I've had it it's brought new problems... My E3 Pro is pretty much stock, with the v4.2.2 mainboard as original from 2021, and tuned in for near perfect prints, I'd calibrated the XYZ and extruder steps so it always printed to within 0.2mm (sometimes less with some prints), I kept up the maintenance, the bed guide was always tight so I had no wobble, the belts tensioned, and until a few weeks ago it was still on v1.0.0 of the firmware, it's now on v2.1.2.2 and is perfect. It didn't really need a vibration compensation device because it prints slow and has slow acceleration. I rarely had print failures which were nearly always caused by a dirty bed, and I printed with a nozzle of 0.2mm, so it was even slower! But the quality was amazing! The move to the KE has brought problems I'm having to compensate for. It can print nearly x5 faster, that means a LOT of XYZ acceleration and decelleration, the stock 'Y' guide bars are worse than the extrusion roller runners of the Pro, they are cheap, not adjustable and of sub-quality tollorances, so I'm upgrading them to linear rails. I've already purchased the XYZ calibration compensator which I'm about to fit having just printed the bracket. The side supports vibrate and rock when the head and bed move because the machine moves the head and bed so fast and abruptily, so I'll be bracing them soon, in effect, you do need to calibrate for the vibration as the machine isn't sturdy enough for the speed it is capible off, especially at heighter print heights where the effect is amplified. I will get the KE tuned in, just as I did the Pro, and right out the box the KE is a good printer, but it needs attention that should've been attended to in pre-production, I'd far sooner they added £30 to the price of supports and rails then me having to do it, but this is what it's all about and why these printers are only £230... They need us tinkerers to perfect them.

You do realize, the "Cloud" is simply someone else's computer..

This is not needed. I tried it, and if it was creality should include it in the machine. Cash grab