Hey +1canyonguy, unfortunately, we do not have any bike specific videos or literature for this procedure. My best recommendation is to get either a factory or aftermarket repair manual to help you with the procedure if you're unable to figure it out by reversing the process of taking the old cables off.

The manual is totally useless for this procedure.@@bikebandit

when you kick start the bike, does the garage door go up and down??

was wondering the same thing

+jason mccoll Hey Jason,Sorry, but your method of just removing the damaged cable just won't work. Your controls have two cables for a reason. One cable opens the throttle, and the other one closes it. Last thing you want would be to have your engine not be able to slow down. Cables should be replaced periodically anyways. Thanks for watching our videos and the question. You're a subscriber to our channel, right?

+BikeBandit Thanks for your reply. We were in a pinch. The bike was flipped backwards up a hillclimb and the push cable was crushed ia small spot. We ran all weekend using only the pull It worked but had a ton of play in it Although was very easy to twist. Thanks a new cable is on order now and yes Im a subscriber Great vids and products Thank you

Ryan Morgan What needs to be done Ryan?

My break lever broke completely off and this is my first bike had it for a month got it used n I need to find the piece for it

Ryan Morgan Hey Ryan,From what I could find, Pantera is based in China. I'm not super familiar with them. Is your front brake cable-actuated or hydraulic? If you can find parts, you might have to buy not only a brake lever, but also the matching perch, but this could get really expensive really fast, as brake perches usually incorporate the brake reservoir too. If you still have the part that broke off, you might be able to remove the part still in the perch, and have someone reattach them via a weld. Levers are usually aluminum, and having someone weld it could also be pretty pricey. I've heard of folks drilling a hole in either half, and inserting a dowel, and then just use JB Weld externally. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but we're here to help. Holler if you need us. Thanks.

YourAverageChubbyGuy Hey Chubs,There are a lot of reasons that could be causing your leak. Was the part bumped and thus developed a crack? You don't mention the type or year of bike, but perhaps the seal/gasket is just old and has dried out enough to leak? Does this only happen when the bike is running, and the fuel system is under pressure, or does if just leak all the time? Is this a dirtbike and what you're calling your nozzle is actually the petcock? With a little more info from you, I can better help you diagnose the problem. Thanks much for watching our videos. You remembered to subscribe to our channel, right?

I have an 08 crf450r. I just cleaned the carb on it a few days ago, and it would start streaming out around the back of the nozzle (Where the fuel line hooks up to the carb) weather the bike was on or off,Which lead me to believe it was a o ring or gasket. But it finally just stopped yesterday. which is making me think now that something wasn't seated correctly. I certainly did subscribe man, Thanks for your help in advance

YourAverageChubbyGuy Hey YACG,Go to this page, but you'll have to remove the spaces that I put in, and you'll see what I think is your issue. Look at parts 2 and 17. They run about the same money. If you're leaking from the brass inlet, my guess is that your 2 is either torn, twisted, or worn out. Either way, you'll be cracking open your carb again to perform a little surgery. I say buy 17 and replace all the seals in that area. Hope this helps. Thanks for subscribing too. We appreciate your support, trust, and your business. Ride safe.@2008

YourAverageChubbyGuy you'll have to put the 3 w's in front. YT is kind of fussy about linking things.@2008

YourAverageChubbyGuy Well I tried to do it twice and YT blocked me both times. On our site, you'll find a schematic of your carb. Look for #2 and #17 and you'll see what I meant in the other notes. Thanks.

+dick chainy can you give a little more detail?

+BikeBandit I got figured it out but thank you

dick chainy how did you figure it out?

Carl Mich Hey Carl,You're right. That's a Yamaha, not a Honda. As a former owner of a 250X, I'll agree with you 100% that the real estate and access around the engine was super tight. The job is still possible of course, just remember to write down the route of the cable as it came out and you'll have no issues installing the new one. Thanks for watching our videos and the reply. You remembered to subscribe, right?

ahah thanks

BikeBandit.com do you have any tips on how could i get a better access to my carburator? should i dismantle the subframe part? because i would like to rejet as well..