Hahaha. That’s awesome ! Glad the videos help. There’s lots more on my channel but you probably know that.

OK! I like that. Note taken and I will keep that in mind for the next job! Thank you.

That’s perfect!! Thanks for sharing. Let me know how it goes.

Good point! I like that.

Excellent!

Doug T I was thinking the same thing. Figured I’d use L brackets on the inside floor. Once the fridge is in you won’t see them.

I know a lot of people like yourself. I’m a little more old school.

Thanks!

You’re welcome!

I’m glad! Thanks

Glad to hear it’s helpful! Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have questions

Kody Horvey Thanks Kody. I appreciate that. I already know I’m dealing with a corner that’s out of square. We’ll see how it goes.

Much appreciated my friend

You’re welcome

Shoot! That’s not good. Did you watch my 5 part series on how to do it from start to finish?

Glad to meet you!

If you found this video valuable would you mind helping me by sharing a link with friends or on social media? I would appreciate it.

If you reply in this comment “DONE” then I’ll add you to a list to draw for some free Up To Kode swag. Thank you in advance!

@@uptokode i will with pleasure👌

Much appreciated!

My go to is a Stabila 6ft to 10ft extendable but they are around $400. Pricey unless you use it everyday. You can certainly get away with a 4 ft and a straight edge for extension

Thanks for the visit

Use cabinet shoe moulding (scribe moulding if not available) around the base of your panels and toekicks. You can also use Quarter round the floor manufacturer has, but often it won't look as clean. This can help secure the base of your fridge panel/gable to level as well. If you want to keep your warranty, install it in and around it. It doesn't truly matter for these panels because of the lack of weight. It takes a lot to make a decent floating floor buckle. If you have laminate I wouldn't even think about putting it underneath cabinets. (Tip: Water-Resistant doesn't mean Water-Proof, resistant doesn't matter once water gets under/around it.) If you have a mid-high quality Luxury Vinyl, then it becomes grey. Almost no floating floor will have a warranty if floor is installed under it too, but most of the time won't buckle if you let it settle ideally 3 days after and then install your WALL MOUNTED cabinets. (Some cabinets have the toe base separate from the rest of the cabinet. If it's separate, floating floor should not be installed underneath no matter what.) Islands/peninsulas would have to be glued down and minimally screwed if at all. Even if you use stone countertops 99% of the time your floating floor wont buckle if done with the right precautions, but it's easier to just void warranties and just say no than hope everyone can be that patient. Make of it what you will. I personally prefer installing it under whenever possible for a much more sleek look that'll also help protect subfloors from water damage. The real factor is what the warranty actually covers for 20 years haha.

I think i see a reply here you fix it to the floor with an L bracket?

1. Try to keep a factory edge to the floor. Silicone that for extra protection. If the factory edge is not possible then I would seal the cut with primer and even a coat of paint after that. Then install the panel. Then silicone the perimeter.

Im curious to what you decided to do with the seams and how the end result looks. Was there any difficulties installing double cabinets on the wall?

I order from a hardware store a type 17 wood screw. #8 x 1 1/8” flat head. Cheers!

I have done this by adding the desired thickness of framing in behind the cabinets and then mount the cabinet to this framing. Is that enough info?

I was thinking of framing a “box” but not sure if I should use 2x4’s or 2x3’s and making 2 - top and bottom and relying on the 3x8 cover panels to take some of the “weight” Thanx a bunch for your videos Kody

Yes just use an angle bracket.

Normally the underside is left as is.

Good question! I have never done it.

Yes an L-bracket on the wall and near the front of the panel.

I'm wondering the same thing. Why did he double the panels on the sides? Perhaps the fridge was too wide for that cabinet?

At about the 20 minute mark he explains that he wants a slight gap on either side of the fridge which is about 36 inches, the same width as the cabinet. So by adding the side panels he creates the small space on either side of the fridge.

I would butt panels together. I would suggest putting the seam down low OR up high (whatever you think is least noticeable). You could consider the 36x96 panel with a 26x36. It all depends how many tall ones you need and which panel configuration makes for the least waste while maintaining factory edges that are visible.

@@uptokode Thanks Kody!

You’re welcome

A light sand is never a bad idea. As for adhesive...check with a flooring company. They have the good stuff. Or use something similar to adhesive for a shower surround. I’m not an expert on adhesives so please double check.

I’m glad your kitchen is looking great. Email me some pics when it’s done. Kody@uptokode.com.

Correct. Gable flush to the doors.

Kody Horvey thanks! One other question not sure if you mentioned. Fixa gables- I have to put it between cabinets and the gables?

The more expensive cabinets have quite a bit of particle board too, and not near as many features. We have a mix of Ikea and kraftmaid in our kitchen. It appears the only way to get all wood cabinets is to build then yourself or have them built.

Far far easier to get all cabinets level. Far more stable and secure. But of course it doesn’t have to be done my way either. Do what you think is best.

Ikea Kitchen Panel Sizes & Where To Use Them kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nraXf5N035jHp4k.html

deffo not just men watching this. Am here for it

Understood. I like to be thorough but it’s hard when you also want to deliver information quickly.

Definitely not too long, those who want to learn appreciate every little bit you show, so thank you!