My pleasure. I'm happy that you find the videos useful.

Hey Ronny. I'm happy that you find my videos helpful. I'm not sure what Ikea's designer are thinking 🤔 but my best bet for the "non-flush" option is this. If you strive for the panel edge and the door being flush, you'll fail in most cases unless you decide to live with certain other issues. Quite often you need to adjust the door hinges a bit out from the cabinet box in order to bring the opposite corner of the door towards the cabinet and that will be visible instantly if the door was flush with the panel. Any discrepancy from flush is much more obvious to the eye than a discretionary from 5/8". I hope that helped.

@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you, for the reply - the explanation helps. I know I’m making this harder than it needs to be, but like you, I like things uniform and done right. I have a couple more questions, if don’t mind - it would really help me out. If I have a tall cabinet next to a wall with base and wall cabinets on the other side, I install the end panel next to the cabinets with the 5/8 inch overhang, but the filler piece on the wall side is installed flush with the cabinet frame?? Also, what saw blade are you using to cut the panels?

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Panels+filler. Some folks double up the filler so the outer on protrudes from the cabinet box. It requires an uncut edge naturally. Blade. I cut on my 10" table saw with a 60 teeth blade.

@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you again. You’ve been quite helpful. So as an expert who’s installed hundreds of IKEA kitchens- I guess the real question is - is anyone, but me, going to notice the discrepancy?

If you go with 5/8 (+ -) nobody will see the discrepancy. If you aim at flush, everyone will notice 🤣

Thank you for your kind words, Paul. I am happy to hear that your installation went well.

On top of the LVP. And cut at the top to avoid penetration of moisture.

I knew the part about cut side up…. I watched a good video about that! 👍

No, I don't do that. I let the panel protrude the cabinet box with 9/16 to 5/8" (14-16 mm). Trying to make it flush with the door is difficult as you may have to adjust the door hinge in or out, and consequently ruining the flush look.

No, I don't. The length (height) of the wall cabinet panels depends on whether there's a valence (deco strip) under the cabinet or not. I let it go below either the cabinet or valence with just a bit.

@@kitchensbyrannes OK so I am definitely installing the mittled under-cabinet lights (thanks to your good advice!) but wasn't planning on covering them with a deco strip and was going to have the height of the side panel match the height of the metod cabinet. This means the light strips will be more visible if one looks under the cabinets (who does that anyway?). Is that weird or is it a common choice from your experience? Thanks for your feedback!

You're welcome. How you describe it, is how I do it. In your case, I would cut the panel 1-2 mm longer the the height of the wall cabinet and mount it flush at the top and let it protrude the 1-2mm at the bottom. Sometimes the cabinets vary a bit in height (true story) and I'm not measuring all of them, so cutting the panel a tiny bit longer is wise.

You're welcome. You want to have the full depth, i.e. 24 5/8" all the way to the top of the fridge cabinet, and starting at the floor.

@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks!

​​​@@kitchensbyrannesWhat if a fridge cabinet is a bit too high ... i have it 4 cm higher than a full panel length, is it ok to put start a panel from a leg or screw it to the cabinet so it hangs 8cm from the floor? Or some similar solution?

@@illustratedquotes Yes, you can have it flush with the bottom of the adjacent base cabinet.

Easy answer. No. Never have. Never will. If you have an uneven gap, starting to fill it up will only enhance the difference. I think the shadow is doing a marvelous job even out the gap.

@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for helping out with your response.

You're very welcome.

Thanks.