Thanks for watching the video dude! Good eye! We did actually silicone the exterior bottom fastener array, which did include a nylon size matched washer and a small dab of silicone. Filming a process like this is very different and lots gets edited for time and/or gets done when camera is off. Regardless, your comment is 💯 relevant and again, good eye!

It's the only trolling motor I have ever owned. THE BEST.

Are you wondering about the heading sensor for the Ipilot? That was installed on centerline of boat just forward of motor. Not much to show other than 2 screws and pos/neg wire. Sensor uses wireless connection to Terrova.

I watched the video twice thinking I missed the gps puck install. You show it but never mention it install or it’s placement?

The head and shaft turn 360 degrees once released from base to stow so, yes. Choose which ever direction protrudes the least.

As long as you used the RTA-54 quick release mount then yes. If not, please purchase the RTA-54 with your new motor.

Yes there is a tool to trim cable ties off. It is available at West Marine or on Amazon. You can also buy self trimming cable ties which do to require a cutting tool. Those are also available from same vendors.

A pair of wire cutters that cut flush work well

Accurate Marine Services in Naples, Florida

Accurate Marine Services (239) 238-3626

Which part of the running would you like to have seen? It is zip tied under starboard side gunnel in an area manufacturer ran other cables to rear of skiff. Minn Kota provides a long enough cable to get it around your boat to console. Trolling motor has a shorter length cable that then attaches to extension which is connected to Solix 10.

Wish they showed how to get the back to bolts

@@chandlerhill6453 Long arms through a small access area inside forward hatch. Every vessel installation is different so there is honestly no need to show exactly how it is done. Unless you own a Beavertail Vengeance, will not be the same.

They always try to adhere to the manufacturers recommendations. The manufacturer is looking to avoid any contact with the rub rail or hull and motor shaft which is why that distance is provided. A lot of times it comes down to the design of your boat and how your fasteners will be placed through the deck. This particular install followed Minn Kota's recommendation exactly as fastener location was not an issue.

@@thetravelingcaptain I loved this video and tried to follow it exactly and had issues with the plate too close to the edge. I disagree with you and the video in that Minnkota actually states with the shaft down there should be a minimum of 1 1/2 inches from the gunnel to the SHAFT when deployed!. If you use a plumb bob to have the inch and half clearance from the aluminum resting place, you will have 2 1/4 inches clearance to the shaft. This is due to the 3/4 inch collar on the shaft. This should be clarified as that 3/4 inch makes a huge difference in mounting

@@bobhoffman1869, as mentioned multiple times in comments, your install may differ from the one in this video. Unless you own a Beavertail skiff, the shape of your vessel's bow may not be like the one in this video. The installers followed Minn Kota's guidelines and completed a successful install. This vessel is still running around with the same troller on the bow and no damage from it. So, allow me to state this again, your install may differ from the one in this video. Please read all of the directions provided by the manufacturer before attempting to start your project.

Agreed. Where is the rest of the install?

I use the Ulterra on my bay boats and the Terrova on my skiffs.

Deka AGM batteries, they came with boat from manufacturer. If purchasing for your own use, choose a good quality AGM battery brand with nation wide warranty.

Heading sensor? 2 screws and pos/neg wires installed on centerline just forward of outboard. Not complicated to install so did not show it.

@@thetravelingcaptain Not complicated but still important information for folks like myself watching all these installation videos! ;)

@@mikebromelow8514 Your point is valid, but don't worry that part of the job is very simple. Minn Kota provides detailed instructions on how/where they recommend you install sensor. All vessels are different and your mounting location will most likely differ from this one. It is highly recommended you read all of the included installation instructions before proceeding with your own. Thanks for watching this video.

That "GPS puck" you are speaking of is not a GPS. It is actually a digital compass known as a heading sensor. The heading sensor does not receive any GPS signal. What it actually does is tell the motor board where the back of the boat is pointed so your spot lock becomes hyper accurate and allows the motor to better compensate for wind and current.

@@thetravelingcaptain Ok cool. You guys didn't have to mount the digital compass known as a heading sensor?

@@bsummit826 I did not, but the installers at Accurate Marine sure did. Sometimes videos get compressed for time to fit KZfaq, shots get left out. Minn Kota does a great job of providing detailed instructions for that sensor. Also, the location for mounting changes with every boat, so its best to find the spot on your particular vessel to install. Its very simple, 2 screws, 1 hole to pass wire through and a positive and negative wire.

You have your way of marking your work and Accurate Marine has their way. Both will arrive at the same destination. Please feel free to install hundreds of trolling motors your way just as the guys in this video do it their way.

This video was about installing a physical electric motor on the vessel. Battery wiring instructions are provided in box for you by MinnKota. Read all included instructions and please take care when connecting power. Batteries connected in 24Vdc create enough current to do extreme damage.

Which specific fiberglass are you referring to in this video? Could you elaborate how said fiberglass will blow out?

Pushing the drill as hard as he can, would've been better to pilot hole and drill from both sides.

jake ramirez ur that type of person?? So how does it feel to be the only dipshit to dislike this video?😂

It was too dark in the hatch to see anything.

Addictive Fishing lol you could use flash light 💡

@@BruteManny Unfortunately, there was not enough room to fit anything but an arm and tool through the access point to reach bolts. The installer put his whole body in hatch then reached through that access point to put nuts on the bolts. I understand how important this is and will take your request in to consideration for future installs and make sure to show you how to put a nut on a bolt.

Thanks for watching the video. I’ll get with my hairdresser and see if there is anything I can do to hide the scars on my scalp and then maybe I can meet with your approval. I’ll follow up with you after I get it all done.

Your hair is fine and the video was well done. Liam is just so proud of his mullet he cant help but criticize .

In your professional opinion why is 3M 4200 a better choice? Have you consulted a representative for 3M who advised you on proper sealant for this particular job? 3M Marine silicone is a valid choice for this install where it is above the waterline through closed cell foam core and fiberglass substrate. Adhesive properties of 4200 are not needed for this type of work. As far as your comment on "drill and fill" technique, this is not the type of job that would require you to do it. The puck part of the quick release bracket an large fender washers below provide enough strength. Just make sure to use the correct Minn Kota quick release bracket for the 80lb thrust and below motors or HD version for 112lb thrust motor.