Just be patient and makesure you use the right mandrel.

For sure! It can be done that way, but it is definitely more difficult to get the old bearings out and the new bearings in with the crank and rods in the way. Depends on the engine you are working on, but it can be done.

It's an ls i picked up cheap for low oil pressure. Changed pump out and no help, then I went looking a little more in block and found the #3 bearing has migrated out the front about 1/4 inch.

@Russ Rocket it can be done. What year LS? If it is a Gen IV, you shoukd use the 3rd design bearings

I believe it's a 3, did not know about the new designs yet. Just started researching for bearing change.

Where do I look for information on these new design bearings, do they have them available for the 3rd gen?

Thanks!

I am running an m295 standard pump. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Never really thought about it to be honest!

Multiple answers here- Yes. You can reuse the rings, but you have them out, so if the engine has 100k or more, you might as well refresh it because you are in there. Additionally, you dont have to pull the pistons at all. You can technically do it with the crank in the block, but it's much easier with it out, but the pistons and rods can definitely stay in if you dont want to deal with removing them. Just tie the rods out of the way. All of that said, if you have the engine out and down to the short block, you might as well put new bearings and rings in. You are already there, and that stuff is easier than doung the cam bearings. Good luck!

@@Reddirtrodz Thank you sir. Yes I do have the engine out and it’s just a block. I pulled the engine out because I had a spun cam bearing low oil pressure. And one of the gaskets was leaking coolant so that’s what I’m doing right now. I’m watching your video and I just uninstalled the cam bearings. I’m waiting for the bearings to arrive from AutoZone And yes, I am replacing the piston rings and I’m doing a light hone on the piston cylinder walls too!

@buddyrebel_Garcia good luck! Just be patient, gap your new rings, and remember- clean clean clean clean and then clean some more!

Yes, the oil hole is your guide.

Really appreciate that, within the week I’ll be doing cam bearings in a 6.0

@ToddSalisbury just be patient and following the instructions for the tool you have and make sure your oil passages are lined up.

Yes sir!!

Also my main question is “do I still have some hope in my classic 😢?”

@blazem2400 definitely do not run that engine until you fix it. Will probably require a shortblock teardown at the minimum. If it sent shrapnel through the oiling system, it will kill all the other bearings. You may be able to just replace the bearings, but you need to do a thorough check.

@@Reddirtrodz yea it’s just been sitting I think the culprit was because I was having low oil pressure issues changed the hoses and was trying to thicken the oil with synthetic additives….im planning replacing all bearings but of course GM had there engines upside down in 1993

@@Reddirtrodz I humbly appreciate the input 🙏🏽

No, you have to pull the crank to get to the cam journals to put the bearings on the tool, can't slide them in from the front/rear. You dont have to pull the pistons though.

It all depends on the condition. If there are any scars, scratches, etc then you need machine work. 170k is middle of the road for an LS, many times you can get away with a good hone and file-fit each ring to each cylinder, keeping them in order. Check the clearances of the bearings and you will know pretty quickly whether or not you need machine work. If money is not a big factor, a machine shop trip is advisable, but I see 150k+ LS engines with basic "rings and bearings" rebuild that beat on all the time. That is exactly what I did on this one, so just have a good look at the old bearings and hard parts. Plastigauge is your friend if you don't have the right tools.

Ok thanks. Yeah its a smooth runner and not burning oil. I just figured id do as much as a could while im in there. Money is tight so building the best i can on a budget.

@hydrostreamcrazy we did a Summit rebuild on the bottom end, with new pistons, but you don't have to replace the pistons at all. Just clean it really well before you put the cam bearings in and dont forget all the little oil plugs.

Would you do valve springs, retainers, pushrods, valve seals right away? Not sure how many miles or if stuff goes in the heads often.

@@hydrostreamcrazy It depends on your overall goals. Seals are an easy repplacement that will come with a rebuild gasket kit. The actual parts like springs, pushrods and retainers are fine to reuse if you are staying a cam that does not require heavier springs or different pushrods.

Lolol, zero good reason to reuse those.

Not all engines can be done that way. In fact, the Gen V LT-Series can't be done that way at all, because you cant fit the tool in the block and get the bearing into the channel at the same time, and when you get rhe bearing installed, you can't take the tool out. Gen III HEMI engines require the front bearing to go in this way as well, and that bearing is like 3 inches long. With chamfered bearings, there is little chance of screwing it up if you are careful. Thanks for watching and commenting!

There is no risk in replacing them, and the tops were dimpled. You can't fully clean an LS or LT without removing the cam bearings, and I will not run bearings showing copper. It's far better to replace for $30 than to take a risk.

@@Reddirtrodz they are line hone from factory even low mileage have copper showing and will run for many thousand of miles I didn’t say it was a expensive cost to replace them all I’m saying is if they show copper doesn’t mean they are bad

@@javiertrujillo1916 these bearings were shot. There is zero good reason to keep bearings showing copper. I am aware of the GM process. I always replace cam bearings.