Bullet Proof VANOS part 6
VANOS and helical Gear Install part 2 of 2.
Okay everyone, in the last video we showed you how to prepare your helical gears for installation by finding the sweet spot- the specific way to install them in the hub that gives them the most range of motion ( for advancement and retardation of the cams) go back and check all the other videos for complete instructions.
THANK YOU to Dr. VANOS for giving us good information and all the help on this install! It came out perfectly with your advice. Some of this information is unspoken about in most places, so we have him to thank.
In this video we take our marked helical gears and we install them onto our upgraded VANOS unit from Dr VANOs. you must place the correct spline/helical gears into the VANOS. The exhaust and intake gears are slightly different and must be put on their correct sides. We Then show many crucial steps that are significant to setting it up for a perfectly timed system including installing the pressure regulator into the VANOS We then continue with installing the VANOS and helical gears into the head as a single unit by using our marks on the helical gears to put them into their sweet spot into the hubs. Then using the long bolts on the VANOS we hang the VANOS onto the head and align the tabs on the oil pump disc to the hub. We will continue with important steps such as 5mm gapping between the VANOS and head to allow for timing chain pretension.
Use the 5mm wedges sold by BMW- part number: 119170
we didn't use them but instead used calipers and made sure we kept the 5mm gap.
With this gap, Before continuing to tighten the VANOS down, we tighten down 2 bolts on the exhaust and intake hubs and back them off a quarter turn, placing tension on the conical washers behind the hubs holding the spline gears and hubs in place. This conical washer tension with a quarter turn off allows enough slippage of the conical washer so that when the VANOS is pulled down to take up the 5 mm gap you set earlier, the internals have enough slippage so that cams DO not move, but any slack in the timing chain is removed. If you don't take the slack out the chain, the cams can float because they have play, and you don't have accurate and reliable retardation or advancement of the cams- thus decreasing performance. For example the cams to do not work in unison, the cams will do exactly what they need to do. We finish torquing down the hubs properly, Bring the enging to top dead center, TDC again and recheck timing using your timing tools ( cam bridge and crank pin). You should have timing that is dead on if the cam bridge tool pins perfectly without adjustment. If you have to adjust the cams to get it to fit, youl have to go back and repeat the step for the cam that isn/t aligned.
The information on the pretension on the chain using the 5 mm gap is straight from the BMW handbook, BMW sells a 5 mm wedge for doing this:
For this build we used these parts from DrVanos.com
- Upgraded VANOS w/ new solenoids
- S54 Cryo treated Exhaust hub (30% stronger) these often break
- S54 Intake hub
- S54 REM coated Cam Gears
- Upgraded Cam gear bolt set
- S54 modified intake gear
- S54 modified Exhaust gear
- upgraded S54 Timing Chain guide-(ours was broken)
- S54 VANOS Oil line