Amazing method. Just used this.on a SE B&Q worktop and it is flawless. Thank.you

Tried this method the other day & it worked a treat. Cut through the edging at the required position with a sharp utility knife then the rest of the edging pulled off with a bit persuading. A bit fiddly to do but it did look neat when bolted & glued together, much prefer this butt joint look for square edge worktops. Great tip..thanks.

Doing a Wren kitchen next week with this post formed edge worktop! Won’t be doing masons mitre this time! Thanks for making this video! 👍🏼

This is amazing. I have been scared to do the masons mitre myself, but this way seems so much easier

Been using this technique for all my square edge worktop fits , looks cleaner than masons mitre which basically should only be used for post formed chamfered edge , but each to their own I suppose , another top vid keep em coming 👍

Nice way of doing worktops👍

Very good way of doing that joint. Not something I’d thought about or done but will be using your method from now on. Standard router & jig joint was normally the way for me.

Hi Alistair, I fit a lot of kitchens and it's amazing how many customers, including so called builders that think you need to use a masons mitre to join all worktops. It's absolutely not necessary on square edged tops. With pvc square edged worktops I use a similar method to yours but with less chisel work. I score the edging with a square and knife as you did, then I use my 1/2 inch router with a top guided profile / flush cutter with my standard worktop jig to remove the edging stopping a mm or so short of my score line, obviously setting the jig in line with the glued edging. I then remove the last mm or so of edging with sharp chisel, a quick sand and it's good to receive the square cut male worktop. Good channel btw 👍

Am I glad I watched this before starting. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou!

I did this 3 years ago and was told it wasn't a proper joint. Lol. Thank you I feel justified now.

Yep,been doing it like this on all my installs for the last couple of years,sometimes really low set heat gun and sharp marples chisel to work away tougher glued banding.

Thanks for that , just about to do this tomorrow but was a bit unsure 👍🏻

Last time i fitted these square edge wortops, i scored with a stanley knife first, then to get the waste edge piece off i used my router. Clamped a straight edge on so my cutter would cut just the edgeband off, and then finished the last bit with a sharp chisel. It worked perfect, got a really clean tight joint.

If you messed up the edge, is it easy to correct it with a router? And i assume you would have to then take the same amount off the back of the adjoining worktop in order to end up with the same widths?

Exactly what I wanted to know, big thanks

Thank you that was a great video👍👍👍👍👍

Good job

Certainly a well thought-out option. Thank you for sharing. I have a zenith awaiting installation but I'm gonna try one of those shallow scribe jigs.

I think had you put some more heat on that edging it would have pulled off cleanly negating the need for the chisel and sanding block. I just finished up my first countertop and did as you - square corner with butt joint and countertop connectors. It came together nice.

I’m not a carpenter but I feel clever as I did this with a friends 22mm square edge worktop the other day and then saw this video after haha

Hi Alistair. That is correct.

Did you put a 45 degree cut on the plastic front edge or just straight ? As there is a slight round on it.

Been doing this for years

Set your router at 1.5mm in can’t get a cleaner cut than that , other end cut is with a fine blade on your plunge saw or router , job done !

Did someone use dewalt cordless heat gut for that ? Would it do enough heat ?

Got a job coming up where they just want the worktops replacing but keep the existing tiles on in a U shape kitchen, although i normally mason mitre all my joints this will make the job much easier to slide the worktops in/out under the tile

Thanks

Nice! A better method would be to straight router cut that 1mm female off.. gives a neater engineered finish. Or use KWJ750pro jig with the 3mm back set, creating a small margin masons mitre, as you would use on compact laminate.

Newbie at this so apologies if my question seems a stupid... but I want to be sure. You show how to prepare the edge on the video but I didn't see the edge of the othe worktop you are about to join-up to it. I ask because the one I'm about to join has a factory edge. Do I remove the factory edge from both worktops to be joined together? I just need to be absolutely sure.

I think that it's good practice to put something on top of the worktop when you are resting tools on it.

Thanks for the video. I’m about to fit a worktop in my kitchen. Do you just cut the worktop that butts up to this join with a track saw or would that require a router to make the mating edge perfect?

Hi Alistair. Thanks for sharing this. Will try it next week on a kitchen I am fitting as a novice. I am just wondering if this could work for a gloss end panel I accidentally chopped 280mm off earlier today in my own home. Hehe. Wife is not happy! Thanks

Hi, do you remove the laminate edge from both pieces before joining them ?

Can't you throw some more tools on the worktop for good measure?

Do you have to take the edging strip off? Iv done me cut and ready to glue though iv not took the edging off yet!

A great video which I found very informative ,thankyou. Will defo try this out next month when I fit my first kitchen (own home ,not to worry 😂). Can I ask, once fitted and bolted,what seals the join on top? From water damage etc... Thanks for any assistance from anybody 👍

Would it not been just as fast to use the router if you have it out for the bolt holes 🤔

Just offset your jig 25mm off the pegs for a 5mm cut ! . 5 mins and your done ! 😂

Whats the point in all the work involved to mitre the joint the only reason you mitre counter tops is to match up the rounded profile on the front if its a perfect square edge their is no point what so ever to mitre it only to say its been textbook fitted

More heat with the gun definately makes it easier to remove the edging

There’s a smaller angle marked on modern worktop jig that is for square edged tops 35/10 or 22/10

When i fitted my kitchen (first time) i was using square edge worktop and i bought the jig and router to do a hockey stick join. I thought it was abit of a bodge otherwise lololol If i did another one id use your method

Is it not possible to joint without removing the edge strip?

Just as quick to do a masons miter

👍

RIP Marple

Hi, after marking with the pencil, to cut what is the male end, did you router or plunge saw the end

Lucky the sheds use iron on edging , be another story if they used heavy duty contact adhesive . Guessing the square edge worktops don't last so long Was surprised how easy that came off

Lazy mite all day long .heat gun will effect the rest of edging

has Mike been promoted lol

Just thinking about doing my worktops. The idea of using a square profile work top hadn't occurred to me. I do lots of carpentry but don't want to get a worktop jig for one job. Thanks for the heads up

04:20 How comes the chisel ain't sharp?

Looked like that chisel was about to dig in at one point. If you've got the jig, a router and a new worktop bit - why would you bugger about like this, just because wren thinks it's a good idea? Looks cr@p to me: amatuerish.

why do you need to cut the edge off. Can you join with the edge

Detailed to start …. Then no info on cutting the clamp bolt slots underneath - shame as it was good on the whole ❤

This man shops at tool station

How the hell are you gonna connect up the waste with the 40mm outlet that high up in the back of the cabinet ?

i know a few people who fit worktops this way , not great, a bit DIY really , the time it takes messing about with a heat gun ,peeling off the edging hoping for the best ,you might as well have just used your router and jig, done right first time

PVC Edged tops are crap compared to post-formed. Just one long joint to fail. Softer finish too so the printed pattern will rub off in a high contact zone.

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