Yes mate I’m the same, I watch them all night 😂😂 and my mrs says the same

Same here mate 14 years into it, love it

@@kyleaustin3573 I’m at 17 years in and still watch carpenters and woodworkers 😂😂

@@LTWCarpentry I watch most trades! My pegs are very tight like yours and they were supplied pegs with Howdens jig. I also pass router along back edge of jig and then use front edge as a finishing cut as there is 1mm of play in my jig and guide bush

@@kyleaustin3573 ohh really this one was great with the supplied ones but they are long gone 😂😂

Cheer Oliver ! How did the mitres come out ?

Cheers bob ! Greatly appreciated

Thank you very much ! Glad I could help !

Thanks buddy, I really appreciate your comment, it’s nice to know people are enjoying my videos 👍🏻

Thanks for the support Gareth !

Thank you John ! Glad to have you board

Yes I do this sometimes also, with these tutorials I like to keep them as simple as possible, people get confused when you start teaching techniques to them. Thanks for your comment buddy

That's the correct way!

Thanks for your time.

Cheers Marc ! That was a really nice comment buddy ! Completely agree mate ! Always learning new ways of doing stuff ! Everyday is a school day ! 🍻

Your more then welcome buddy, thanks for the comment !

Cheers buddy ! Much appreciated ! 🍻

Thank you very much buddy

Glad I could help buddy ! Thank for the comment 🍻

Thank you for your comment 🍻

Cheers vic 👍🏻

Thank you buddy 🍻

Thank you very much mate 🍻

Your more then welcome ! Thank you for your comment and support ! 🍻

Thank you very much ! 🍻

Nice one Darren 🍻

Cheers Michael 👍🏻👍🏻

Cheers buddy, really appreciate it 🍻

😂😂 nice one mate, deffo easier where I am now 🍻

Cheers for your comment Simon, we all have different ways of doing things, I would agree with you but I’m teaching people how probably have had little use of a router and that’s essentially a climb cut which is fine when you know you have experience with a router.

Nice one buddy 👍🏻

Thanks for the comment Robert ! 🍻

Thank you buddy 🍻

PVA with a bead of colourfill at the top edge is my norm. I'd probably recommend silicone though simply because I've had to snag joints done by bish-bash-boshers and if they use silicone, it's possible to take off the zip bolts and then dislodge the joint and re-glue it with proper alignment. If you tighten the bolts enough that should hold anyway so having a really strong glue is surplus to requirements. The dowel system is new to me, but sounds like a great idea for people like you and me who make sure to get it right when the final fixing of the joint happens. There's no point in recommending it to the speedmerchants though coz they wouldn't have the time.

Thank you very much 🍻

Cheers for your comment buddy, I really appreciate it 👍🏻

Cheer buddy ! 🍻

Nice one buddy ! I really appreciate that ! 🍻

Cheers mate 🍻

This is very true

Mate I have seen router cutter free them self from working them to hard ! Can be scary ! 🍻

Yeah apparently you use me 😂😂👍🏻👍🏻

I would only use a jig on a profiled edge, if it’s a square edged worktop I would do a straight cut

Cheers buddy ! Glad to have you on board, if you want any videos in anything just ask

@@LTWCarpentry no probs and cheers will do

That’s brilliant buddy ! Really glad these videos helped ! Thanks for the support !

🍻🍻

Absolutely!

I see it all the time aswell mate, I had a company wanting me to fit worktops for them using the strips and refused, it take no time to join worktops ! Why not do it properly ?

Thank you babes xxxx

Hi and thanks for your comment, yes you do this so the router cutter is always feeding in to the edge of the worktop, if you cut the other way you have a very high chance of the Laminate edge breaking out. Hope that makes sense

Let me know when you want me 😂😂

Thanks for the comment Robert, yes I have done this in the past aswell

12mm deep I would say is way to much for a 12mm cutter. I get that thats a guide but you will be putting excess strain on the router and the cutter. I normally use dominos but as this is a beginner tutorial I kept it basic

I genuinely having kit kats between breaks, than biscuits.

@@m101ist is a Kit Kat not a biscuit 😂 genuine question, my friend wants to know 😬

Hiya buddy thanks for your comment its much appreciated, I use DOW785 silicone, I hope that helps 👍🍻

Have a look on Facebook market place mate, routers often pop up on there. You should be able to get a dewalt or a trend for not a lot of money buddy.

@@LTWCarpentry I've ordered a dewalt palm router on ebay, was going for £99! Brand new. I'd like to get a Dewalt plunge router at some point.

@@LTWCarpentry Sink and masons mitre all done! Thanks to your video.

@@ourfrugallife they are a great little router ! You can’t go wrong, I would buy the trend over the dewalt plung router, same router just cheaper

Hi buddy, yes I have it’s on the channel buddy, thanks for the comment 🍻

Yes mate I really like my router, I didn’t miss a beat and it takes some abuse ! Been using it for a good few years now ! This is the t10

And yes only the 1/2” routers will work with the worktop templates buddy, the 1/4” router still have there place though

I’m not actually sure mate, it dosnt have the model on it, if in the uk have a look at Toolstation

That’s fine really well hasn’t it !

🤫🤫🤫

This one was an easy one mate yes, I have had some that are 40mm out but being a beginner tutorial I thought I would start with an easier one, I can do a video on walls that are out if needed

@@LTWCarpentry Thanks for the reply that would be interesting video cheers mate

@@tonyskeet8583 no probs at all buddy 👍🏻

This is great idea, I would definitely love to see a video where you tackle out of square walls. Great series of worktop installation btw! Thanks!

That's easy to do, cut your female on your worktop and put it in position, then depending on the hand of your join either let the male sail over the top of the female and mark along the joint and set your jig to match your pencil line, or if the other hand pack the female worktop up with a couple of off cuts and then slide the male underneath and mark it up on the surface and match the jig to that. Remember to allow 9mm between your marked line and your worktop jig for the guide bush! The jig in this video has a big cut out and if you're tops are out of square this will show in the inset curve at the front of the worktop, it will be gappy and look not very good. If you use what we call a 5mm jig it takes such a small amount out of the worktop it almost looks like a butt joint and will allow joints up to about 15 degrees out of square before it becomes visible! Hope this helps 👍

Yes I normally use dominos but as this video is a beginner tutorial I wanted to keep the tooling as simple as possible, I would strongly suggest it though 👍🏻

Hi, yes it does these are designed to work with a 30mm guide bush and a 1/2” router cutter. 🍻

Can’t go wrong with ct1 mate ! Great gear aint it !

😂😂 mate every job I go on the sockets are pissed !

Cheers for the comment buddy, I actually have another video on my channel showing this process

Cut the female joint first, place on the base units, lift it up by the thickness of the worktop, then put masking tape on the male edge, place underneath the female joint, mark with a pencil ✏️, then you can offset the jig to the pencil line, That's what I do.

Yes they would I normally use dominos but wanted to keep it simple for the videos

Hi mate you can use a silicon or a wether proof ova glue 🍻

1/2inch router cutter with a 30mm guide bush is what you need

If you mean router cutter I used a 1/2” cutter.

That's it, thankyou so much.. wish my worktops luck 🤞🏼

I wouldn’t recommend using a quarter inch, it won’t have the power needed, plus you need a 1/2” router cutter for this to work. Cheers 🍻

Yes you can but the thing you have to bare in mind is that these will take on moisture so if you have a damp or leaky shed the might swell. Hope this helps

@@LTWCarpentry cheers it should be ok brand new shed and I put an ir heater in it as it’s my workshop and got 4 benches to build in my wheelchair I’m hoping to get done before winter as been working on it almost a year doing inside insulation rubber flooring and boarded out

You can indeed buddy, are you on Instagram at all ?

Yes mate I normally put dominos in but as this is a beginners tutorial I didn’t, I actually don’t like the zip bolts, I have tried them a fair few times but still go back to the normal bolts. Thanks for you comment

What biscuits do you use? I like milk choc digestives.

​@@mrali5196llf

@@mrali5196hob knobs are the strongest. Richtea are useless.

Butt and scribe, same name for internal skirting joint I believe..

Hi Dan, thanks for your comment, I use a half inch cutter with a 30mm guide bush, hope this helps mate, good luck and keep me updated with your worktops

@@LTWCarpentry will do mate, 24 hour delay due to storm Babet, got all the old ones out now so a blank canvas... Will let you know tomorrow!

@@danhickman9716 brilliant buddy, any questions fire away 👍

@LTWCarpentry first two mitres done, really happy with it, thanks for the videos mate! We have some worktop left over so also going to build in a wee breakfast bar. Hoping to round the corners off with r40mm, anything to be wary of?!

@@danhickman9716 that’s awesome dude ! Glad they came out well ! And always happy to help, no I wouldn’t say anything to be wary off to be honest mate, just take you time and remember to route into the laminate, same as when you did the mitre 👍

Yes if it’s a square edged worktop, if you check out my video on how to join square edged worktops you’ll see how we normally do it. Some will still put a masons mitre but there’s really no need

You don’t need to buy it dose mate life easier for alignment

In some scenarios it is better to do this( it’s called a climb cut) it can help with tare out ect. It’s not for the faint hearted though as the router can run away from you. Most cases I just go left to right

I would move my jig of the back peg by 4mm to account for the difference

What would you do instead than mate ?

​@LTWCarpentry a 45° Miter joint would look cleaner, no?

I would set the jig up with all the pins in as normal in the 616 position, mark the end of the jig on the worktop then take the pins out of the 616 slot and move the jig over 4mm to make it 620….. I hope that makes sense.

Thank you, that makes perfect sense I guess I was over thinking it.

@@keenbfb your more then welcome, just make sure you move it the right way 👍🏻

Could use the 635 and place a 15mm spacer/packer between the jig pin and worktop Which would make it like a 635 worktop if that makes sense..

There are loads of worktops videos on my channel buddy, I have shown all solutions

@@LTWCarpentry dory this is the 1st one I found in my suggestion box. I’ll hunt out the others as it’s always interesting comparing notes as to how others do what you do.

Not many to be honest mate, I normally buy a new router cutter for each kitchen I do, you can do more but it puts strain on the router and dosnt give as clean a result

Thanks I thought as much@@LTWCarpentry

The are bessy duo clamps mate

Hi mate, yes kitchen and bathroom sealant

Let it dry then it will peel off buddy

No I haven’t had one fail, it’s hard to say why your failed without seeing, they will fail if you leave water sitting on them as water always finds a way (not saying that’s what you did) it depends on what he put in the joint. Sorry I can’t be more help

@@LTWCarpentry might have used interior PVA which isn’t waterproof or been a bit tight with the amount used. Always coat both cuts as it soaks in..

I've always used silicone in the joints except for 2 n was recommended colour fill as per instructions and both failed.. Back to silicon every time...👍 no problem

Depending on quality of worktops..sometimes cheaper worktops will soak up water if wet for to long even if its not on a join.. water can soak through the laminate.. no joint will ever be fully waterproof.. always dry them off

@@Boxingfanatic-fb8zg you say that but my laminate worktops have been in for 15 years and are start to look well past their best and my misses cleans then with all sorts of concoctions and the joints are still flush yet my daughters, installed by the housing trust started to blow after 2 years but the joints were not that clever when 1st installed as none of them were that flush to start with. There’s good quality tops and sealants/adhesives but there are also some not good ones about.

There’s a video on my channel about square edged worktops mate, go to the playlist title “kitchen worktops”

Thank you!

Thank you!

You don’t get tear out with laminate

No on real wood worktops I tend to use a waterproof wood glue

Great any particular one you recommend many thanks

@@lukestyles2615 I use generic exterior grade pva mate

Thanks 👍

Thanks for you comment

I do indeed mate