Interesting to hear. Thanks for sharing on the thread Rudy.

My case exactly, i use pro stealth curved. It was heck to set the set back

Yeah you should never adjust reach by moving the saddle forward, adjust correctly with a shorter stem is the way to go! :)

If you maintain the position except for moving the saddle, it means the reach must be reduced. Therefore, CoG shifts back.

Depends on the bike and seat but in some case you can purchase different rails that enable more flexibility there. Cam

@@roadcyclingacademy6476 ISM saddles are great for people who need to slam their saddles forward.

might look at the lapierre aircode i ride it in size m because of it 74 deg seat angle seat angle stays at 73.5 even for xxl

I use rotated 20 mm offset round seatpost with slack 72.5 seat tube angle. Works well for me.

On point.

have you resolved the weight on your hands?

@@jayromasanta8072 I ended up going more forward than ever on both road and gravel bikes, bars cannot be too low. When I start to get pain it’s because I’m not engaging my core. Do some pushups and the ab wheel every other day and it goes away.

I want to take it even further. This is why bikes shouldn't come as complete builds. I dont want to pay for a super expensive frameset or a complete bike with too wide bars, too much offset on the seatpost, to long cranks, to long stem, crappy wheels and saddle.

But if you know your fit already and are not tinkering, what’s the downside?

@@cameronALR6 bodies and fitness/flexibility changed over time plus injuries; all of which will require ongoing slight changes to fit.

Yes, but totally depends on the shape of your saddle.

Assuming the height is perfect to begin with, going forward 5mm usually involves raising the seat around 1-3mm in my experience, and vice versa with going backwards. It's highly variable though and there are sufficient numbers of people out there who are outside of these ranges to make this a pretty sketchy generalisation at the best of times! - Neill

I have the same issue! Please help

Stem to long

When pushing hard on the pedals, you are actively unweighting your upper body. That's why you feel uncomfortable on your easy days (which means your fit is not optimal)

I have the shortest available. Not a problem

It depends on the head angle, and fork rake/trail as each bike is individual, but with most gravel bikes 50mm is no problem, especially when paired with a wide bar which gives heaps of steering input leverage! - Neill

@@roadcyclingacademy6476 thanks!! Neill the bikefitting legend!

@@colecoleman1499 great to know! Thanks Cole

I didn't mention it because if the seat is too far forward you won't have any major trouble as the road tilts upwards - you'll still be well over the top of the pedals on the power phase of the stroke and it won't present much of a problem at all. - Neill

@@roadcyclingacademy6476 Ok, thank you very much for your reply.

Hey Martin, sorry Neill is no longer on the thread, but thanks for the comment. Cam

The best place is the middle of the sail rails. If you go to one extreme or the other, the saddle tilt can be very quite challenging, because the saddle may tilt up or down excessively when too far back or forward.

adam hansen was a total freak, his seat was like 2 degrees down too slammed all the way forward, but he worked a lot on core strength and spent a ton of his life on the bike to handle it, theres no way a normal human can handle his old setup.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f7mJq5Od0avYl58.html yes

You have more option to move backward, cause your body can fold over easier. Doesn't mean you want or need to though.

You can not understand this kind of things, you need to feel them. Imagine having to jump starting on your knees or sitting bottom on the ground vs an Indian squatt position.

1.If your saddle is too far forward, you might be overloading your quads and they are pulling you forward. It's counterintuitive but more setback and a lower saddle will help engaging your glutes and keep you well balanced. 2.If your saddle is too high, you will skate towards the nose of the saddle to shorten your legs. 3.If your stem is too long it can have the same effect. To properly identify the problem I would reset the SMP saddle position in the middle of the rails since you have a zero offset seatpost first. I have the Dynamic as well and the number 4 on the rails corresponds to the middle. 1. Check if you need arch support in your shoes 2. Reassess cleat placement 3. Set you bike on a trainer or go for a ride and set saddle height. 4. Fit a shorter stem if you have one. I do this and I find it helps me focus on how the position of the saddle feels in the next step. 5. Do the balance test to set your seat setback. Check Steve Hogg website on seat setback. 6. If you feel cramped after all of the above is good to go, put a longer stem by 10mm increments only. 7. Handlebar height is a tricky one but start with the highest setting on your steerer and go down from there until you are comfortable, relaxed shoulders and not too much weight on your hands. Your can also film yourself, sometimes it's easier to see what's wrong with the position on video. I'm not a bikefitter but this is what I do for myself with all I've learned on this channel so far.

I'll leave this Q to Neill Sheldon. Assuming he can get to it. Cheers, Cam

seat to the back with longer cranks will increase hip impingement.

@@escamunicha4276 Yep, this wouldn’t work for me. I have short cranks and the seat relatively far forward (despite having very long legs)

Cleat position and shoe fit. They wear shoes that FIT. Ball of foot inside the shoe is more forward (relative to the cleat mounting holes) than in a shoe that's too big. This effectively "moves the cleats back" on the shoe, shortening your legs(for the same ankle posture). Moving the saddle forward ALONE effectively "lengthens" your legs, which could explain your experience with unfamiliar/unbalanced muscle fatigue?

Most powerful position is far forward and up high. This engages the glutes. Engaging the hamstrings is the opposite of what you want.

Same here. Too far back always burns up my quads and reduces glute engagement.

@@jimmyhor78 Probably means your seat is too high because quads are over engaged and the glutes are turned off, but then again some people experience the opposite in the crazy world of bike fitting :)

Your saddle is too high.. Quads always do extra extension & work if the saddle is too high, and your glutes off power because they were busy stabilizing your pelvis.. On correct saddle height, if your saddle too far forward, your quads burning.. Too far back, your hamstring got strained..

The old BH in the background (my bike) has the same seat with a single layer of sheepskin glued over the top to provide some extra grip. It's awesome if you're 60kg, super stable and your position is well balanced! - Neill

Hey spud, I'm a sports physiotherapist and we call our customers patients.

Absolutely no way is “this guy full of himself”. Clearly Neill is a passionate, dedicated expert who is trying to help people… for free as well. Pretty humble actually, thanks for all your work Neill & Cam