What is the device called? I don't readily see anything online....

I think the backing is in two parts, with a longitudinal split, to facilitate removal. You bend the printed label along its length so that the face is concave and that causes the backing to split and lift slightly so that you can easily get under the corners and peel off each half.

That depends on how you value your time :)

Because you can just use cheap replacement labels instead of the highway robbery price original ones.

The off brand dyno heat shrink and vinyl is super cheap. The vinyl runs about $0.40 / ft

I would use a hybrid method, use the flat stick on labels, with a clear heat shrink over it to protect the ink. Too many solvents will take off the ink otherwise, and the adhesive only may peel off with time.

You are correct - not a "valid" combination. However, I have been using this machine successfully with those labels so far. So inexpensive, I will take the risk!

I have a Brother label maker and they also take heat shrink tube cartridges so that's not unique to the Dymo label makers. The challenge I'm having is finding a size that will fit over TRS/TR/XLR audio cables and then shrink small enough to fit the wire. The combination I need has to fit over 12mm (.47") and then shrink down to 5mm. That means a 3:1 shrinkage ration and most shrink tubes only do 2:1.

We are not certifying anything! Just sharing our experience. The key, as pointed out in the video, is to be sure to use the IND labels for the best adhesion.

If you're saying your experience is it works with the 160, that's certifying it in my book. LOL! The reason I asked is I noticed you were using a Rhino to print the tubing label with, not a 160. While researching models on the compatibility list for the Rhino IND Vinyl Labels, one on the list that now has my attention is the DYMO LabelManager 280 Rechargeable Hand-Held. The form factor is the same as the 160 except you get a rechargeable battery, a charger, a 2-line LED screen instead of 1, a USB cord, can store frequently used labels for recall, software for your PC enables barcodes and special graphics, and it sells for $16.80 on Amazon Prime, which is only $3.00 more than the 160. I plan to buy that one. They also make a 420P for $70 which does everything the 280 does plus has a 4-line backlit display, does barcodes natively, you can make up your own logos and symbols and store them, and print labels up to 3/4" wide. I own an IT company and as late as yesterday, we were upgrading one of our own installations and wasting lots of time trying to remember what we connected where and why, and Googling wiring label makers is how I ended up here. LOL! From my research, I didn't feel that I could trust what the company representatives say. Here is a conversation about the Vinyl labels: "Dymo 18443 3/8" Vinyl tape Rhino Labels - White Thank you for choosing Dymo. Our goal is to provide our customers with the highest quality and service. The label type can be used for printing from the device. However it is not recommended. This is due to the device not being able to heat to the higher temperature that the Rhino devices can for printing this label type. Which can cause issues with legibility and misprinting of labels with labels being printed from the incorrect device." If you go to their web site and check compatibility of that vinyl label, the 280 is on the compatibility list. As much as the 160 is similar to the 280, my guess is the reason it is not on the list is because they simply didn't add it. Here is a conversation about the heat shrink labels: "Thank you for your interest in our products. The Rhino IND labels are specifically designed for the Rhino printers. They are made from a thicker material, which can dull the blade of other handheld Dymo printers. The Rhino blade has been designed to be able to handle the IND labels." That heat shrink tubing looks pretty thin to me in your video. What I find interesting is of the Rhino line, only the 6000 can talk to a computer. My guess is they may be heavier duty and do larger labels, but most seem like older technology as well. Thanks tons for all of your help!

GRACIAS ME FUE MUY UTIL TU VIDEO

Yeah, same problem. The only way they will stay together is to put the label on across the wire, and not around it the length of the label. I may try the tubular heat shrink. sounds good.

I generally solder my terminal ends and apply a heat shrink over that joint, so the heat gun isn't a big deal.

@@chuckbasics8972 or, apply the adhesive label, then put clear heat-shrink over it to lock it in place and protect the ink from rubbing off :-)

Yes - one idea -use the heat shrink and shrink as much as possible - altho it wont be perfectly tight, it will be legible and cannot fall off! Of course, put on before terminating the wire

Thanks

There are also smaller shrink tubes with 6mm (1/4") These work perfectly on 20 / 22AWG

You could use the sheets of labels at office supply stores where they are about one inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long 2/3 clear and 1/3 white. Fold them over the small wires. If exposed to water, make sure your printer is able to use waterproof ink or wrap the clear over the printer part.