Very interesting video thank you. I must say I got lost where you said the piece of ply template was 17 inches, where did you get the 17 inches from? Many thanks, Paul

Good appreciate the information

Good appreciate the information

Good appreciate the information

@@arthurcurrey2219 po pls i love 💗

Well said!

You're welcome and thanks for using the word informative, I like it.

You're welcome and thanks for letting us know how much you like our videos.

You're very welcome!

I always enjoy compliments like your.

Glad you like them and thanks for letting us know!

Thanks again for letting us know and this one took quite a while to make.

Yes, scrap pieces come in handy, especially square ones:)

well... i mean considering this method requires the installer to make common rafters to begin with, you still need a framing square regardless.

@@maxdecphoenix i understand but lets say I’m on the roof cutting rafters and my square slid off the roof or forget to bring it up. Just saying its a useful tip.

Hip rafters

@@maxdecphoenix Look up the angle of the roof on a 4-12 it would be 18 1/2 degrees and cut it on a chop saw.

You are welcome!

Let me know how it works out and you're welcome.

Much appreciated!

You're welcome and I especially like the great video as always part.

You're welcome!

We like easy and figuring out exactly how much to drop the hip can be confusing.

He did drop it by moving the plum lin in 3/4 and took that measurrment

You’re welcome 😊

Thank you kindly!

It's my pleasure

You are welcome!

I usually cut it straight and don't worry about making it perfect.

It’s a double cheek cut isn’t it?

The construction master is the lead carpenters friend 👍

You might not believe this, but in double checking some of the measurements in this video, the construction master calculator didn't get them right.

You're welcome!

Glad to hear it and thanks for letting me know.

A true perfectionist.

Double bevel the long and short?? Or the top of the whole hip?

@@Hunter_s_morrison Yes along the top of the whole hip, chamfer back the top edges toward the centre line and the laiths or covering will seat perfectly.

@@stevemartin43 I always do that with my ridges also

to get the side line for the bottom of the bevel you would put a 6-17 line on a scrap and mesure long the 17 side 3/4 or what is 1/2 the ridge

Glad to hear it

See if this helps - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eNVhhdmdxL6WYHU.html

Glad it helped

Happy to help

I think I know what you're saying, some extra support. Feel free to provide more details if I'm wrong.

Thanks for the sub!

It will vary on different projects with lower or steep roofs. Most of the time you will be safe cutting it the width of the framing plates that the rafter will be sitting on and not larger.

Here is how to cut a common and a hip.. say you have a 6-12 slope that is 22 1/2 degrees. You can cut a scrap this angle that is the plumb cut of a common rafter using a chop saw nail a clete on the scrap and use that for the top cut of the rafter for the birds mount make a plumb mark and slid a sqare cut 2/4 scrap down that line until it first touches the bottom. if you draw a 12'' sqare the diagional is 17'' well it is actually 16.97'' but you use 17'' what that means is every time you go one inch on the 12 side you move 17'' on the diagonal.. so in 2' it would be 34'' but since the rater rises that would not be the length of the hip or common. to get the rafter length you would need to get a rafter book. you take the span of the rafter say 24' and look that up under common.and it would give you the distance from the exact center of the building to the plate. That is the length of the common... If you have a ridge say a 2/8 you would deduct 1 1/2 '' from the span.. Now framing the hip you may notice the hip cannot reach the center of the rafters so you would have to shoten the hip but if yoo use a book using the span of the building minus the ridge you would get the exact length of the hip or valley no shortng needed.. respond it you want to know what to do next

Glad to hear that

This link should help. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/math/index.html

There is a lot more to cutting rafters than a 12'x12' building

Sounds good.

Thanks 😊

Maybe you could provide us with the exact difference on a 4:12 roof pitch. I will except a decimal or fraction, thanks in advance.

That makes sense Joe. if you measure 3/4” perpendicular to the plum cut line and not down from the crown of the board. This would shave a smidge more off when making those 45’s on the hip rafter. Great video tks!

@@gregvancom Difference is 0.038” for 4/12 0.126” for 8/12 0.220” for 12/12

@@joefowler3672 Less than 1mm then? (I've converted it to metric for my understanding, as I've never used Imperial, and only quickly in my head whilst reading, so correct me if I'm wrong), is that relevant though? Surely that's well within tolerance?

@@SimonPlatt it is within tolerance for lower pitches but not for steeper ones. Since measuring the 3/4” horizontally is no more difficult than measuring along the slope there is really no reason not to do it and eliminate the potential error.

I like it.

Correct! Not doing it that way, actually makes the hip rafter higher than the plane of the common rafters.

I was going to make the same comment. I figured someone had. I prefer to bevel or “back” the top of the hip though. I also prefer the plumb part of the seat cut to be beveled and sit against the wall on both sides.

@@zekefrye706 thats not a bad idea at all. Will give your hip tail a little more strength. We also always bevel the top pitch cut on the hip. In my opinion the fun starts when you have different pitches from the main set to the secondary hip set.

Yes, I’ve done that. I’ve built hipped and valley gambrel roofs that change pitches three times before reaching the ridge. The biggest head scratchers I’ve dealt with were; “supporting valleys” that carry “supported valleys” that were beveled top and bottom to allow for a “no trim” tongue and groove ceiling. The bevels start, stop and change direction at the location of the intersection. “Dog legged hip and valley” rafters, like on a 22.5 degree turn have been a challenge too. Isn’t it a rewarding feeling to pre cut a roof and it all come together..... and embarrassing as can be when you forget one step and the piece won’t work. You did an excellent job on the video. I think most construction workers are visual learners and this is awesome. One small critique that doesn’t matter to some but helps the other trades and I prefer, is to stack rafters directly over studs and studs directly over joists. Thanks again!

He did drop the hip when he drew the plumb line on the common he moved it in 3/4'' and took that meaurment

​@@user-vb8yf8be3lI believe he's talking about dropping the height above plate. Because the roof sheathing will actually have to meet a bit higher than height above plate at the center of the hip, unless the top edge of the hip is double beveled to a point

@@gregorsamsa1364 you only need to double bevel if the hip is a 4x when you drop the hip it brings the two edges the same height as the common. the sheeting doesn't touch the middle of the hip. this is because when you nail the hip to the top plate the seat of the hip only touches the top plate at the center off the seat the two sides of the seat are 3/4 back from touching the plate. If you are using a 2x hip rafter

That is how you determine the hip drop But it is always the same on the same slope IE a 4 in common hip is about 1/4 drop but when you get to steep roofs it can be 1./2 drop or more. You may know this the hip and valley are always the same length on the hip you drop it and the valley you continue the seat cut for 3/4'' to drop the valley v

@@user-vb8yf8be3l right that's what I was saying- the sheathing doesn't touch the center of the hip rafter unless it's beveled, which is why you need to drop the height above plate to make up for that distance between the edges of the sheathing and the center of the hip rafter. But obviously you can just ignore it on a roof in which this distance will be within tolerance

Welcome

Dude get the little blue book that goes with the speed square. Wealth of knowledge in it. 👍

@@rexolrexol7893 cool, I make the cord mesurment for the hip from the point the common rafter point intersects the main ridge to a long point right down on the corner of the structures wall, here's where it gets a little hinky only thru experience and some fiddling can you determine the mesurment thru the hip on a plumb line thru the framing member. To get the angle of any common rafter pitch useing the framing square hold the 2" blade in your right hand and plase the 12" on the outside of the square along the bottom of the lumber place the number of the desired pitch on the outside of the 1.5"blade along the bottom also the angle along the 2" inch blade is your plumb cut this setup makes a rafter with the long point on the left just reverse the square if you want the long point on the right. To get the seat cut measured along the length of lumber on the " crown" or top side square down with your angle and then mark the seat cut so that it has sefitiant depth into the rafter so it won't want to ride up and over the top plate. I make it 1.5" deep and let the seat side of the cut run of the top plate. So square thru on the angle and then square off that line to get the seat . The Swanson blue book has how to get the length of your rafter plumb cut to plumb line at the seat cut. I bought the construction master calculator many years ago and use it for all calculations I need, you cabby updates off the website to bring the device up to date. It also has a booklet with a lot of helpful information.

I won't be making a video soon, but put your suggestion on my list. This isn't easy, but angle the nails and use building hardware like straps if they will help.

You do bring up a good point. The pitch of the roof and rafters sizes can affect other lumber sizes like the hips.

All seat cuts should be the same for gable roof and jack rafters.

If you mean dropping the hip.... a hip rafter is cut using 17'' on the square in place of 12'' this is because 17 is the diagonal of a 12 '' square. But if you notice the hip only touches the ppint of a outside corner of a building .. The common touches the plate but this point of a building prevents the hip from touching the plate at the edge of the hip.cut you have to make a mark on the side of the hip at the plumb cut of the hip usually 3.4 '' closer to the ridge and measure the hight above plate at that point. On the valley you would mark the seat cut the same height as the common and then follow that line 3/4 '' more towards the overhang this would allow the hip to move 3.4 '' towards the ridge and also drop the hip

The possibilities for hip roof designs are practically end less and a ridge for a hip roof will be needed when the length of the building is longer on one side.

@@gregvancom do you have more info on this?

Great video!

If that's going to be easier then I would say go for it and glad you enjoyed the video.

it would chang according to the slope of the roof... The reason I say slope there is no such thing as 4 to 12 pitch

@@user-vb8yf8be3l You’re wrong.

@@scottallen5269 Pitch means the relationship between the span of the building and the total height of the ridge This is a fraction 4 to 12 slope is 1/6th pitch..8'' rise per foot is 1/3 pitch if a building is 24' span and is a 4 to 12 slope total rise of the roof is 4' or 1/6 of the span that is called pitch

Common construction practice is to use larger lumber for the hips. For example if I'm using 2 x 6 for my common roof rafters and jack or fill rafters, then I would use 2 x 8 for my hip or something larger like a 2 x 10 or even a 4 x 8 or 4 x 10, depending upon the situation. Let me know this didn't answer your question.

@@gregvancom got it. thanks for the helpful video.

For the most part Yes.

It would based on dipping below the 2/3 rule of removing material from the rafter. That will be determined by the common rafter's height over wall plate, which in this video is 6 3/4". When your transfer that height to the Hip, if what remains is less than 2/3 then you need larger lumber for your hip.

Or you can just measure down from the top of your hip rafters the same distance that your common rafters land on the top plate and that works great also. And for length of your hip it is one plus a half of what the common rafters hang over.

@@rexolrexol7893 absolutely right

@@rexolrexol7893 but you need to split the thickness of the ridge equally on both sides .so if the ridge is 1 1/2 inches you would subtract 3/4 of an inch from the length of your common rafters length. 3/4 on the right side and 3/4 on the left side of your ridge will equal the 1 1/2 inches which is the thickness of said ridge .and rafters books are different. Empire gives you the length according to a 1 1/2 ridge and Swanson gives the true length of your common rafters that you have to subtract half the thickness of your ridge from your common rafters length.

@@rexolrexol7893 I always carry a swanson book. And for cutting your sets of Jack rafters for the hip if your using a 10 /12 pitch I believe it's 22 7/8 inches you subtract from each jack rafters and they will land 16 inches on center. Some of my comment was talking about how long to cut the tail of the hip rafters to get you facia to land straight and tight on the outside corners.

@@rexolrexol7893 it's way easier to do it than talk about it for sure

You can use quite a few and here's a link that might help. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/sheds/index.html

Help me out here, what type of steel diamond?

@@gregvancom rectangle tube or square tube to build diamond roof shade

@@gregvancom especially how to set up the roof

It is the amount I cut out of the common rafters. Yours could be different.

And a pencil.

And use math. It works every time. Once you figure out your rafter and hip factors, you can calculate the length of all of your hips and rafters without setting foot on top of your walls. Still a very well done video if you don't want to get into the math. Clear and concise. Nice drawings to go along with it.

🤣🤣

Well done video!!

He fixes himself on that in the video

Thanks and sometime we've got to say what's on our mind.

He's ignoring half the ridge

Those are roof framing ratios specifically for a hip with a 4:12 common rafter ratio. Here's a link that might help www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/math/roof/index.html

I wasn't about to suggest this is the easiest method, but another one.

@@gregvancom Cheers and thank you for the videos.

@@rexolrexol7893 all the info that you need to layout and cut rafters is on a proper framing square. Just saying. Cheers

@@rexolrexol7893 I'm not sure what you mean sir. I layout my rafters directly on the boards/ timbers to be used for the rafters. For rafters that there are more than one of I will use the first rafter that I layout and cut as a pattern (such as a common rafters in a hip roof).

@@rexolrexol7893 it's not 19 ft 10 1/2 .it is 20 ft minus 3/4 so 19 ft 11 3/4 .but just measure out 20 ft and cut it 3/4 short .pretty simple.