It may negatively impact it IMO. I remember a year ago I could climb v5 and could hang on the smallest edge on my hang board with ten lbs bonus weight. For A year I didn't hang board and just focused on getting out and bouldering, sent multiple v6s, and am now projecting a v7. Now although I am 6 lbs lighter, send harder, I can't hang with any bonus weight at all on the smallest edge, just bodyweight.

Are you trying to set Max pulls on hangboard? Or become a better climber?

@@tristanlasley8030 climb harder of course. I just thought the story might be a good anecdote for the question.

@@benmoyer3606 herd, I just think that in order to be good at one over the other, will require different physical adaptations...For example, when do we freshly get onto a boulder, hang for 10sec then wait 2m before attempting again. Probably never, but that doesnt mean that training in that way wont translate power onto the wall.. I was also more so commenting for the OP tho, I try to look at training from a bodybuilders standing. Everything has a pro and a con, isolation movements vs. Compound movements create different adaptations, but in the end you'll still gain strength doing either or...

@@tristanlasley8030 truly you could potentially say that at some point in my climbing doing some hang board training may be just what I need to advance a grade, or potentially that if I added some supplemental hangboarding to my bouldering for the past year I would have made more progress. However, I also think at least from my experience as well as stuff I've heard from other folks that you shouldn't hang board until you're at a level where you truly need it. that way you can learn to climb technically sound, and then when you reach a point where you might need a strength boost, or are going through a platue, or don't have much time to climb, supplemental hangboarding may be useful. Also it may be more potent because your body is not as used to the stimulus

I love that about climbing in general! So many lessons and tools that are applicable to the rest of your life.

Absolutely right. Cheers Dave!

Thanks, will try!

Tommy Caldwell might not be that impressed by calling them approach shoes LOL.

Tc pro, not approach shoes lol

It's coming. I almost shot it today but didn't quite have time at the crag.

@@climbermacleod Awesome, thank you!

21:56

Lynn Hill.

Watch the women in literally any IFSC lead event and you can see how they abuse the crap out of their flexibility. It makes a huge difference.

@@ComputerManDanMiller no doubt especially at the high end, and especially in indoor comp climbing. But my main focus is outdoor sport and trad. In his recent Lattice interview Dave suggested flexibility might be less crucial for outdoor climbers (as he says in 9/10 Climbers) but also that his views have changed on that a bit in recent times. Would be keen to hear his current views.

@@PaulSagar1986 Flexibility is always going to be good. It's literally just extra free options on every climb you ever do. Also the training has basically 0 impact on any other climbing training except for the time investment to stretch a few times per week. Obviously you do you but anybody who wants to be a good climber should be making sure flexibility is a strength.

@@ComputerManDanMiller oh for sure - I think I’m literally doing 4-5 hours of flexibility training a week under my new regime. It’s a big investment but given my terrible starting point it’s necessary. But hopefully a low base = lots of room for reasonably rapid improvement

That's a great observation about different types of climbers, and your friend specifically. Some people more readily engage with tasks that feel out of reach, but work towards it nonetheless (hard projecting, for example) and your friend might not feel as comfortable doing that as you do. That's ok, and if your friend enjoys easier onsight climbing and movement well within her abilities that's great, it just means she's probably not going to progress in difficulty very fast without trying and failing on harder climbs.

That is Creag Mo in Glen Scaladale on the Isle of Harris.

@@climbermacleod great to know, thanks Dave!

Just shot this last night. Will edit soon.

@@climbermacleod ahh great stuff! Il keep my eyes peeled 👍

When I project a boulder that is at or beyond my limit, I always film myself. It's an easy way to learn what goes wrong. Also, it can help you assess whether you are making progress over several sessions.

I think through trial and error + experience you learn. I remember I was projecting a problem that was very crimpy and some of the moves felt physically too hard, so naturally I defaulted to doing months of strength training at the gym only to return to the problem and see no progress. I returned again with a friend who I had been climbing with the past year and who had been climbing around the same level as me. I watched him do all the moves so naturally I thought if he could do all the moves why can't I? That session, I started making little micro adjustments to my beta and long story short I realized I needed to place my right heel better and press my left toe differently to push myself away from the rock. The big issue was I was so used to keeping my hips as close to the wall as possible because that's what we are often told is good technique. However, this put my body in a position that made it impossible for me to reach the next hold. With a little bit of practice I was able to stick that move consistently that same session and I sent the project 2 sessions later. See, I think when we encounter a route we are unable to do it is only natural to default to thinking you are physically unable to do it because we often evaluate the difficulty of a climb based on how physically challenging it feels. However, if we are not using the most efficient technique then of course it is going to feel physically harder then it really is. Therefore, the only way to know whether or not getting stronger is really the only option we need to first try and exhaust all other technical options that are possible. Also having friends to climb with definitely helps as well because they may think of things that you won't and give you feedback that can help you when they see you climb. Hope this makes sense and that you found it helpful

@@Perry0823 Thank you, good explanation! I'll definately going to try. I guess getting it done was really rewarding after initially thinking it wasnt possible.

@@driesvanoosten4417 Thanks, Ill try to make videos next time.

@@BJvd26 just sticking the move felt amazing

This one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d62RlJqCmLXPYqs.html

Not really. I do far far less than I used to.

Can you quantify climbing technique? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d62RlJqCmLXPYqs.html

@@climbermacleod cheers!

Can you quantify climbing technique? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d62RlJqCmLXPYqs.html