it went all the way into, "you didn't level it while hot", "some parts are funky from the factory, cut this off", "using warped surfaces anyway, here's how", and "here's the hard way too, for my sadists"

Same here i have ender 3. But I think I need to upgrade springs to yellow ones. BTW were you able to fix the problem by now? or any tips that works for you?

Thanks for the feedback. Glad it helped.

Hi Julian, thank you for the tip. We made one a long time ago which explains that but we plan on making a new one and with more information soon. In the meantime, you can check the video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kMyhmLeryJmyoIE.html

@@ruiraptor thank you, I'll take a look. looking forward for the new video

Hi, thanks, glad it helped 🙂

Hi Timothy, thanks for your comment. The purpose of breaking the small piece on the endstop support is to allow the X gantry to go down further than what the endstop would normally allow. This way you can compress the bed springs a bit more and give more stability to the bed. Your method works but only for small adjustments. For bigger adjustments you need to move the endstop down or the X grantry will crash on the endstop.

ruiraptor great info, thanks! I hadn’t heard that explanation before.

Surely Baby Steps are only available on the Ender 3 in the "Tune" menu which in turn is only available while actually printing. It is not a method for setting Z height gap.

Hi, thank you. Glad it helped :)

Thank you Mac, wish you all the best. Stay safe.

Whatever oil on my bed wouldn't come off with 99% iso. I used palmolive and meyers scrub (bonami) on my glass bed. I think it was coming from the silicone boot or something else on the hot end. Months later the boot is all dried and cracking and the prob is gone

Hi, thanks for the comment. Regarding the babysteps, probably you have the babysteps steps too high. You can edit the firmware to lower the babysteps increment value.

I don't believe it is possible to level the bed "first time" because each adjustment of a wheel will affect the height of the bed at the diagonally opposite corner. So you need to go around the bed several times, each correction getting smaller as you go. The solution to this nonsense is to upgrade to a 3 point bed suspension, then you really can get it correct first time. I did that and it is a much better setup altogether.

@@kencroft7933 I believe you're right, because I was only able to do it once. Subsequent attempts failed miserably.

@@kencroft7933 These type of 3D printers have a serious design flaw. I just watched a video about 3-point bed suspensions by Chep on KZfaq. Your mentioning it was the first time I'd heard about it. I can't understand how this mechanism might help though. Forgive me for saying this, but isn't it just another part replacement claimed by some to be better than the stock part. I am, however, inclined to say that the bed mechanism on my Ender 3 V2 3D printer needs improvement or modification. If bed stability was an issue, why did Creality opt for a single centered rail bed support. It doesn't make much sense, because it clearly adds more instability to bed-levelling. Bed-levelling is a frustrating necessity(?) I could do without. The BL Touch was not much help either. Which brings me to the following questions. If the gantry and bed were perfectly parallel, or as close to it as is possible, and ignoring the possibility that a build plate might be warped, why is bed-levelling necessary at all? If the gantry is "perfectly" straight and the build plate is "perfectly" flat, couldn't wobble side-to-side or up and down, would you still need to level the bed? I don't think so, because the nozzle would never be lower or higher to the set position. It would remain at the same height, no? What do you think?

Hi Jim, if you have the babysteps feature enabled in your (Marlin) firmware, you should have it available in the tune menu while printing. The babysteps feature is the same as the live Z adjustment used in the prusa printers.

Glad it helped :)

Hi Peter, 1.8 seems to be a bit thick. Are you using that thickness to level your bed? How is your first layer?

Hi, you can enable the manual mesh leveling on the V2 but you will not have the menus on the display. To trigger the leveling you need to use the PC and send G29 commands.

@@ruiraptor so I assume you uncomment manual bed leveling and restore after g28, but leave lcd bed leveling commented?

Hi, the problem is getting the manual leveling menu on the display. For some reason, the compilation fails when enabling this. We need a bit more time to study this.

@@ruiraptor Many thanks.. I installed a BL Touch but this too isn't working properly on mine and I have no idea why... I disabled it and went back to stock version since it works well as it is out of the box.. Cheers

Hi, you need to enable the line "define LCD_BED_LEVELING" and "define MESH_EDIT_MENU" to get the menus in the display.

@@ruiraptor Thanks a lot! Did not find this documented. Will test it.

Hi Manuel, yes, with Marlin you can add the M420 S1 line on the start gcode.

Hi Tim, we have a video for that question. Please check this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hM-piJSUubq9nIE.html

Hi, yes, it's in our plans to do the follow up.

Hi Thomas, is the screw also spinning or it's only the knob that is completly loose? If it's loose, then you need to keep turning until it starts compressing the spring.

@@ruiraptor The screw spins too I think...going to fiddle with it some more soon.

@@ruiraptor Update! The screw spins with it with the knob. It will not go up or down.

The knob still spins even If I hold screw from spinning! The knob just spins and goes no where.... Got it off! Have to get some small m4 screw to keep the screws from spinning.

Hi, which printer do you have?

Hi Sam, yes, it's possible to have the manual mesh to work on the Ender 3 V2. However, for the V2 it's not yet possible to have the menus on this display. The commands need to be sent though pronterface or any other interface.

and how to install the code on to the printer.

Hi, we have several videos about firmware for the Ender 3. Here's one of them: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oayCrMJm0c6WeYU.html

Hi, yes you still need the limit switch. The machine needs it to home the Z axis.

it will be fine, your bed will not be damaged, a tigher tensioned spring is less likely to shift around. If you dont have a form of auto bed leveling like a bltouch, your gonna need to tweak around the z endstop

@@aguerr211 ok thanks :)

Hi Jimmy, Manual mesh LCD menus are not working on the V2 display. The alternative would be sending the comands through pronterface.

Hi, you are correct, unfortunately the Ender 3 V2 display does not allow the manual mesh LCD menus to be enabled. You can try enabling the manual mesh leveling without the LCD menu and send the commands by proterface instead. Here are the instructions with and without LCD ( marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html )

@@ruiraptor Wow, that actually helped me so much! Do you think this issue will be fixed soon?

Not sure, but being possible, the Marlin developers will find the answer for sure ;)

Hi Tiago, you can enable the manual mesh leveling on the V2 but you will not have the menus on the display. To trigger the leveling you need to use the PC and send G29 commands.

@ruiraptor oh ok, thank you, so I have to do everything from 7:15 to 8:55, because after is everything from the screen menu that I will not have, right? and after that I just put the micro SD card and he will boot the codes? Because I don't have the leveling part, or I have to connect pc and send the codes directly from my pc? Thanks a lot for your time man ❤️ really appreciate

Hi Tiago, for the firmware update, please check our other video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r55ng5p8mqq4fYk.html Regarding the procedure for the manual mesh leveling, here is additional information from Marlin on this: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html and marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html

@@ruiraptor thank you very much sir

Qualquer dúvida é só dizer ;)

Hi Brandon, thank you for the idea. We will add it to our "to do" list. :)

For the Z to be always on, you need to edit the firmware and have this option enabled.

@@ruiraptor Does mine move so easy because of Z nut wear?? Doesn't everyones fall?

Do you have extra weight as for example, a direct drive?

Hi, are you trying to activate manual mesh leveling with an Ender 3 V2?

@@ruiraptor yes but I learned I can’t do with this display,I should use a 12864 LCD.

😭

This new display of the Ender 3 V2 is not as "flexible" as the other ones in terms of programming. Having said, it's not yet possible to enable the manual mesh leveling with the display menu included.

@@ruiraptor Ok thanks, I was able to get your bed level g-code to work on the Ender 3 v2, once I enabled the nozzle park and the advance pause feature.

github.com/Flawioo/Creality-Ender-3-board-v4.2.7/blob/master/README.md had same issue, these bugfix zip and config zip worked like a charm.

i have found it i think need a hand here pls.. i setup the bed level.. but everytime i start a new print it just resets it and lose it i have tryed it.. i make it again and again it lose it everytime so every print starts without a bed level :(

You mean, the bed loses the leveling? are the springs compressed enough?

Hi, the manual mesh leveling is not yet available for the Ender 3 V2 because the menus are not working in the V2 display.

@@ruiraptor how to fix this

If you want mesh leveling you need to install a leveling sensor and run it automatically.

@@ruiraptor you mean bltouch

Yes, BLtouch.

Where r u having a problem