Try that Boretech I have been using it for a couple years and after 58 years of using other things it works the best out there and you can use it indoors too!

How did that Howa turn out? Just got my 6.5cm Howa 1500 mounted up in the chassis. Cocking bolt lift is heavy. Dry fired about 500 times with snap caps, it's smoother now. Haven't been to the range with it as I'm still waiting for the optic. How did this grease work out for you?

We make it easy for you. All the cleaning gear I use is in one bundle that’s caliber specific. www.paramounttactical.com/product/rifle-cleaning-bundle/

I’ve been meaning to do a video on chamber and action cleaning. I use and recommend the Boretech action cleaning tool and chamber mops both of which are on our website. Fortunately, unlike gas guns, bolt guns get very little fouling in the chamber. Thanks for watching! -Gary

@@paramounttactical thanks…will keep an eye out.

Boretech makes the very best cleaners and lubes! I have been collecting rifles 60+ years and I hunt and reload as well and I have found Boretech to work the very best and it can be used indoors because of no fumes! Great video even for us old farts🤔😳😂

Yes I do. I rub the grease all over the lugs.

That’s known as a hang fire. I mean… it could be humidity but it could have just been a bad round. Once assembled, modern ammunition is pretty weather proof. If it was a hand load it’s more likely the powder was stored in bad conditions before being assembled. Same could happen at an ammo manufacturer or they just got bad powder. Could also be a bad primer. Typically when that happens it’s due to really old ammo or really old powder. I don’t think storage conditions were the problem. Thanks for watching! -Gary

@@paramounttactical That means, there's no point in storing ammunition in airtight containers then?

@@KM-xo7py well you’re kind of jumping topics on me a little bit or maybe I focused on the wrong part of your question. I don’t think 70% humidity (which is relatively low and 65-70% is recommended as ideal for health in a home) caused a hang fire. You should store ammunition in a relatively climate controlled environment. Drastic swings in temp have an equally deleterious effect on ammo as moisture does. Do I think you need to store ammo in airtight container in the avg home? No. Are you storing your ammo in an outdoor shed or conex? Airtight container may help but the swings in temp aren’t good either. Store in a cool relatively dry place. 70% humidity is still relatively dry. 90% and you might have issues. My point was I don’t believe the conditions you described contributed to a hang fire. Especially if it was only one round out of a box/lot of ammo. Hope that clarifies. Thanks, Gary

Yeah, Tikka’s have nice actions. If you can degrease/clean an action and it runs smooth… don’t change anything. No lube is optimal. Thanks for watching! -Gary

He is right when in doubt us less! The Tikka is one of the very best for their price range, but unless it’s stainless like most of my Tikka’s are you want to give it a very thin coat at the beginning of a hunt and at the end of a hunt! Your very lucky it takes some hunters years before they find out about Tikka’s! I am a gun collector and have been collecting Sako’s for many years and saw on a form about how good the Tikka’s are and the rest is history! I have owned about 50 or so Tika’s and close to that in Sako’s and for the price they are one of if not the best and are my favorite if the truth be told! I have 7 guns in at the gunsmiths right now and only one is a Sako but finding good buys on Sako’s and Tikka’s is not as easy since so many know about them now!

Us old timers too! I had tried about everything on the market and that Boretech just makes the job so much easier and better, especially indoors

Dry films will gum up and collect in areas. I don’t recommend. Thanks for watching! -Gary

Gerrardstown/Summit Point WV.

I just ordered a few items and read that you are combat veteran owned! Thank you for fighting for freedom!

Thanks for watching! -Gary

Almost never. Pull it apart once a year or so just to inspect. That’s all I would do but you can do it more or less often if you’d like.

He is correct once a season hunting unless you drop it in mud or dirt and about the same for PRS unless you see a problem develope that it not leading to a normal cleaning

Given how thick LSA is that would slow down the action and attract dirt and gum up.

No, I typically don’t lubricator to prevent rust. If you’re in a very wet/humid climate you can run Boretech Shield XP www.paramounttactical.com/product/shield-xp-rust-preventative/ Thanks, Gary

A louver from a window blind works great.

Thank you and thanks for watching! -Gary

You have to use grease for lugs. We stock and sell the Quick Dry, it was one of the many lives I tested. It’s good but the Friction Guard XP is unbelievable slick and dry. Thanks for watching! -Gary

@@paramounttactical Roger that, thanks for the input Gary. Hope you had a Merry Christmas. Happy New Year to you and your family.

Hey Gary, after more research I’m gonna grab some. Bore Tech actually used to call it Teflon Gun Oil. Midway USAs description says it used DuPont Teflon additives. That must be why it’s so slick to the touch when dry! So you’re right, why get the just Teflon coating when I can get this which combines Teflon and actual oils for best of both worlds (rust prevention and lubricious, wet or dry). You’re the best!

Thank you sir. Just a knuckle dragger trying to make the video worth watching. -Gary

Very light application. I recommend Lucas extreme duty gun oil. I use it for cleaning and lubricating all of my semi-auto firearms including handguns and rifles. Thanks for watching! -Gary

@@paramounttactical is Lucas slicker than Bore Tech friction XP gun oil?

@@shahielharilal6710 not exactly sure. That’s a great question. I’m so used to using items I know work for specific applications that I honestly hadn’t even considered the Boretech Friction Guard for semi auto use. That’s something I should test. I’ve been using Lucas for my ARs and pistols for years in extreme conditions and hard use, and I know it works well. I know the Friction Guard works great for bolts… I’ll have to start using the Friction Guard on my other guns and test that out. You spurred some thought in my brain. Thanks and thanks for watching! If you can ever make it, be sure to join us for our Live Dangerous Liberty Podcasts on Wednesday at 7pm ET. I know it’d be early morning for you but if you can make it, we’d love to have you. -Gary

Well that’s not true at all. You can see wear marks on all bolt bodies and on the inside of the action outside of the race ways. Some actions more than others but to say the only contact is at locking lugs and action ways is easily demonstrably false. Always enjoy the discussions and debates on these matters. Thanks for watching! -Gary

@@paramounttactical I will admit when I'm in error I have a controller round feed bolt which I typically a tighter tolerence fit and doesn't allow as much wear I enjoy your channel and content. I will try the lube on your link.

@@curtday5463 I’m happy to admit when I’m wrong as well my friend, and I am often. That’s what this community is about, learning from one another, capitalizing on collective experience for all of us to grow, be better at and have a deeper understanding of what we love. I’m glad you’re here and never hesitate to challenge me on anything. I get it wrong sometimes and definitely explain things wrong ALL the time. You and yours have a wonderful 2023 and make sure to join us live on Wednesdays for the Dangerous Liberty Podcast! God bless! -Gary

I’ve heard that graphite can be corrosive but haven’t confirmed that but I do know that it doesn’t offer any corrosion resistance and it can gum up in wet weather. Generally speaking graphite lubricants are not a good option for firearms and wasn’t designed for that type of use. I have no clue what their heat tolerance is (not that heat is a major concern in a bolt) nor do I know graphite’s tendency to walk, or end up in places it shouldn’t… or the effects of that. Thanks for watching and great question! -Gary

@@paramounttactical thanks for the excellent response. I think you may have saved me some grief. 🙂

@paramounttactical - I have 2+ decades exp in Mil aviation/aircraft maintenance. You are correct it would not be good to use. Molybdenum disulfide powder is an excellent lubricator and if applied correctly (lighty brushed, all excess removed) it won't wander, gum up, or attract grime. Also very heat resistant, BUT that's in a sealed dry environment. Contact with water, oil, etc is another story. I personally wouldn't use it.

Gun plumber here. Graphite is no good for for something like a bolt gun. Firstly it’s mainly useful for plastic contact points, second, it would gum up in the f/pin spring real quick.

Paramounttactical.com

Yes sir.

I use TW25, Bore tech seems to have a lot in cleaning and maintenance. You should do a full product review. I just ordered the BT cleaner. I use Hoppe and Wipe OUT. Got a back shelf of the newest and GREASTEST just sitting around

I work it in on the entire lug. Probably didn’t make that clear enough. Great question.

@@paramounttactical Thanks for the clarification. I look forward to getting the two products in the next couple of weeks. Thank you again.

always grease the Lug abutments always, clean then grease, keep lug area clean and greased very important, gualing will kill a bolt

@@planeiron241 ☝️💯

All I’ve ever used is a light coating of gun oil on my bolt action bolts, including the lugs. Have never had any excess wear.

MPA PMR Pro II rumble.com/v26rh26-definitive-review-masterpiece-arms-pmr-pro-ii-best-long-range-precision-rif.html

Because you don’t need any lubricants there and if you start getting grease on the cocking piece, you run the potential of slam fires. Bolt guns are not high friction operating mechanisms. They don’t need lubricants and lube causes more problems than it fixes. Really the only potential problem is galling at the bolt chamber interfaces, which is why we use grease at those points. Thanks for watching! -Gary

@@paramounttactical I was referring specifically a Remington 700 bolt cocking ramp not the actual cocking piece that holds the sear.

@mrcbrrr7484 ok. 🤷‍♂️ I have gone 20+ years shooting bolt guns and have kept every part of the bolt degreased and dry except the bolt lugs. A lot of that time was operational overseas where we had rifles operating in adverse conditions and getting more rounds through them than 99% of all civilians would ever see. There have been certain rifles in certain conditions, typically due to coatings or poor machining that ran smoother with a bit of lube. Those were exceptions. Between that time in the military and my time as an instructor, I’ve had the opportunity to be exposed to a lot of different rifles and seeing those rifles operate in a lot of different conditions. I’ve seen dozens of times a student or client’s rifle that isn’t cycling properly that has lubricants inside and outside of the bolt where I pull it apart, degrease everything and reassemble and now it’s running perfectly. So that’s how I’ve always ran all of my rifles both personal and assigned, and that’s what I know works. I’m also aware that rifles all have their own characteristics and some will run better using unconventional methods. Ultimately, your rifle is your rifle. You do what you like and what works for you. Do your own testing. See if your rifle works better with the cocking assembly lubed or unlubed. All mine are completely degreased and I have student guns that the action has 5+ thousand cycles and they work perfect with zero signs of wear or run flawlessly. I have never seen an issue with a bolt gun and said, oh it’s because there wasn’t lube on the bolt or on some part of the firing pin and cocking assembly. Never. There’s just not enough friction and heat for it to be. You’re welcome to disagree and do what you want with your rifles. Thanks, Gary

@@paramounttactical I appreciate you giving a thorough response on the matter. Thank you for your advice.

I use as little as lube as possible. I’m going for no lube if possible. If the conditions are such that my action is running smooth without lube, I don’t use any. All that said, I never lube my raceways. Just a very light coat on bolt. More lube = more dirt/carbon build up. If you’re shouting with other people and your action is lubed up and open, muzzle blast dirt will just stick inside your action. But, every rifle/action is different. Some require a fair amount of lube to run smoothly. The better the action, typically the less lube needed. Thanks for watching! -Gary

Yeah… that’s not gonna happen. 1) If you’re watching a US produced video it’s common sense that it’s in F. 2) I threw that number out very passively and wasn’t meant to be an exact temp. The operative phrase was “heat it up, get it warm but not so hot you can’t touch it”. That clearly rules out 200 C. I don’t expect to watch a video made in Europe and for them to on the fly convert to F. That would be a ridiculous expectation. Now if i was describing something that needed an exact temp… I would probably consider it. Thanks for watching and I do appreciate the comment though. Thanks, Gary

Another good reason to apply as I directed so there isn’t any excess to freeze and impede the action.

No. Use Lucas extreme gun lube for an AR.

Thanks man. Yes, the YT comments are where the special go to speak. 😂

Nothing wrong with that and i've used brake cleaner in the past quite a bit myself but it will damage the finish on some part and plastics. Been there and done that on several occasions. Never had that problem with Lucas.

Me too, non-chlorinated

Dry lube on bolts collects on the raceways and just doesn’t work well for any guns.

Having been hunting reloading and a rifle collector for 60+ years you are correct on that Lucas oil but I recommend you try that Boretech cleaners and lubes too! I have tried hundreds of products over the years and they make some of the very best! Not trying to tell you what to do but I was so impressed with their products I can’t help but recommend them to all our fellow hunters!

Back at ya. Thanks for watching. -Gary

They’re on our website! www.paramounttactical.com/product-category/swag/

Yes. That’s what I covered… Thanks for watching. -Gary

😂🙄 no.

@@paramounttactical 😂 In all seriousness though, after cleaning just apply a bit of synthetic motor oil to a patch wipe down your bolt. Go over any hard to reach areas with an acid brush. Add a tiny bit of white lithium to the higher friction areas if needed and you're golden. I do this with all my firearms and they handle like butter. Never had any issues.

You can use whatever you like. 🤷‍♂️ It’s been tried… many times. See how it works for you. But there’s a reason no reputable company that makes products for precision rifles makes a graphite lube for bolts. If it worked, they’d all have a similar product.

Uh no. That’s a silly statement,

@@paramounttactical expand :)

@@andresmalo254 well you made a generalized statement that in many situations isn’t true. The point of adding lubrication is to reduce the friction coefficient which in turn reduces heat and wear. With a bolt gun that doesn’t have high friction to begin with and the moving parts aren’t operating in a closed system, adding lube in many circumstances will attract dust and debris and will cause a dramatic increase in the friction coefficient. As I discuss in this video, there are times and conditions adding the the right lube in the right circumstances may give added benefit to function. Generally speaking when I see students with bolt actions that are chattering or just aren’t cycling smoothly, the first thing I do is pull the bolt and hit it with a degreaser that removes all the lube they put on it and suddenly it works perfectly again. With the initial push into iraq, the first dust storm that we hit completely changed how we lube even full auto guns. We went from soaking them down to making sure the gun was clean, applying a light amount of lubricant and then wiping any and all excess off. So the point here is to assess the situation and the application of lubricants (how much, which kind, or using at all) is highly dependent on the weapon and the conditions in which they are operating. Thanks for watching. -Gary

Cool. Some people like details. For others there’s a slider bar at the bottom and you can also fast forward

Dude, I constantly research, review, and test products and once I decide on what I like, I carry them in our store where I have to look people in the eye and say this is IMO the best for a particular application. We’re a Boretech dealer but there’s several products they have that you’ll never see on here or in my store bc theres better options. That goes with every brand we’re dealers for. How about ask a question instead of automatically challenging my integrity. That’s a POS move on your part. I’m not a KZfaqr that just does paid reviews and throws up an affiliate link. We’re first and foremost a training company. We just happen to have a KZfaq channel bc we want to provide information backed by experience. Read my bio and we were doing all this long before we started a KZfaq channel.

Please explain to me what I’m not being transparent about? Do you know what I get the most emails about? “Which product for this? Best product AND process for this?” I do extensive research, tons of time and money wasted weeding out products, time on the range testing products so that I can give good recommendations to clients and viewers based on my over 20yrs if experience, most of which in Special Operations. If you didn’t get anything out of this or appreciate the 8hrs plus I put into shooting and editing this video… that’s on you. Thumbs down back at ya for being a complete douche. Shoot some videos, share your knowledge FOR ABSOLUTELY FREE… you’ll too experience the joys of ungrateful, ignorant assholes that if they don’t like the content, they can’t bring themselves to just move to another video. Oh no… they have to let you know that you are some sinister person with some wildly ulterior motive and question your integrity before they’ve move along, even though all you’re doing is trying to contribute to the community and share your experience and knowledge and MAYBE, just MAYBE eek out a living and feed your family while doing it. You should try it. It’s fun. Please, do not subscribe, do not like, do not watch my videos. You’re not Paramount Family material. Sincerely, Gary Melton

@@Bill32H-it3sv weird, I laugh at guys like you can know so little but are so full of arrogance they spew complete nonsense with such confidence. Your comments reveal your ignorance. If you don’t know what galling is and how it is detrimental to your action you’re not very knowledgeable. If you want to irreparably damage your bolt lugs and diminish accuracy and lockup, don’t use bolt grease. It’s the guys that know the least that can vomit drivel most confidently.

😂 I’ve literally seen it happen. It absolutely will. Educated in gunsmithing? You have no idea who you’re talking to. I’m a former 18B (look it up) with many additional armorer level courses including multiple certifications to service and repair military sniper systems. Bro… I’m not a KZfaqr. I’m a former Green Beret that specialized in firearms repair and maintenance and an actual firearms professional with over 20yrs experience that happens to make a few videos here and there. Good try though. As for your ignorant statement “bolt actions don’t slam fire” here, I’ll do your homework for you. Not only does it happen, it happens a lot. Follow the link. “It’s not that you’re ignorant, you just know so much that just isn’t so” -Ronald Reagan www.google.com/search?q=remington+700+slam+fire&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS857US857&oq=remingtin+700+slam+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i22i30j0i390i650l3.13531j1j9&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8