I have work due in an hour, and I’m watching this. Nice work self!

Best quality video from 2012 I've ever seen! Great explanation. Clear, detailed. Spot on.

I must say, I'm so impressed by the professional process used. I guess that's why you end up with the immaculate finish. Cant wait to see how the final product turns out!

You're welcome. Please just spread the word about our company; we do these videos to share our passion for carbon fibre and composites and to raise our profile around the world. If the 100hrs+ we put into filming and editting this series helps a few people to make some really amazing parts (or even start a business) and gets us one or two links on forums and blogs then it's all worthwhile.

The four videos you have on your channel are BY FAR the most intelligent, concise and in-depth I've found on youtube for how to work with carbon fiber. Thank you very much for all the effort you put into this series.

I really wish I'd watched this $200 (in materials) ago. :) Great series - thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I used hot glue to attach flange forms to my plug, but didn't put tape down beforehand. Because, hey, how hard can it be to remove hot glue? (ProTip: It's not difficult, but super time-consuming. Use the tape.) Also, filleting wax is freaking impossible to find in the US. I've found that a sulfur-free oil-based modeling clay works very well. It doesn't dry out, PVA will stick to it, and it's easy to remove from the plug once the mold is complete. (I'm not an expert - just making this stuff up as I go along.)

The most complete mold making tute I have ever viewed. Thanx-a-million.

Depends on the engine bay temperatures. A engine with good heat shielding will generally not be a problem as the air temp under the bonnet will not likely reach more than 60C. Some high powered cars may be higher so you need to check.

You're welcome! We're working on some more pretty exciting professional carbon fibre tutorials so keep an eye on our site and this channel!

You completely nail it! I wish I had someone like your company in my area...

Calculating how much time this takes, price to be paid for ignoring wife and family. How many shifts of overtime it would take to buy this.......looks like I'll pick up a few shifts of overtime and have this delivered when my wife is gone to visit family.

Thank you so much for creating this video series. I've always wanted to see a simple straight forward explanation of how this process is done. This has really got me excited to try this myself someday.

I recently started working in composites after working with metallics the majority of my career and these videos are invaluable. I just wish I had a big enough garage to do this at home. Thanks

Yes, the mould can be reused dozens if not hundreds of times. We use Uni-Mould based moulds in our own workshop for some of our production parts and they wear very well. The more you look after them the better they will last. By having a good gelcoat finish you can also at occasional intervals re-polish the mould to take out any scratches or dulling that has occured with regular use.

@easycomposites these videos are a godsend. Never thought I'd be able to make my own carbon fiber parts. Thanks to you guys I'm halfway through a new intake manifold. Your in depth videos are easy to follow and saved me a ton of time and potentially expensive mistakes.

This gives me the idea to make so many different parts. Great job on Video #1. Now onto Video #2

That about sums it up! So long as you have the information in this video then every step is perfectly achievable and should work just like it does in the video, there are just a LOT of steps to make a top class carbon fibre bonnet/hood like this but it's an amazing project to undertake and the finished product would be better than almost any carbon fibre bonnet/hood on the market (bulk manufacturers cut LOTS of corners).

I would like to do as much of my car as possible , I have a '67 Toronado - nearly 5000lbs ! This video series has really inspired me to Replicate all the front end metal -Hood Fenders in and out - Rad support and the valences , Doors deck lid and I even would like to attempt to do the Body Shell ..

Great, that's what we want to do. In times like these it's great that we can be involved in getting some great businesses off the ground. We supply lots of people who have done the same thing and are now making some great parts which is good news for the whole scene.

Absolutely nailed it, presentation and editing were flawless, as was the technique!

The human mind at its best, magic, I absolutely love it, wowwwww

Lots of patience required to do this line of work. I could see why CF hoods and other parts are pricy because of the skill set and labor behind it. Good job dude! 👍🏽 keep up the good work you do. 😎

That pop when he released the mould was so satisfying

Thank you greatly for your time and effort with making this series.. very professional and informative. 👍🏽👍🏽

When watched through our website, we have a shopping list of materials next to the video.

man is this hard work . awesome instructional video!

Very instructional and a good presenter, thanks.

This is the best instructional video on KZfaq, really really good!!!

Now I know where to buy my materials for boat building. ... perfect

Knocked it out of the park! By far the most detailed, professional, well thought out and executed training video on producing (complex) parts I've seen on KZfaq to date.. Thoroughly inspiring. And this is from a "supplier"? Builders take note.. This is how you do it, IMHO. String a few of these vids together on DVD and the only question I would have is "where do I send the money?" :o) Companies like this deserve our business. I'm in the US but will be looking to Easy C. (in the UK) to "help" me get started. This is not the type of process where you want to skimp on price or talent. GR8T job guys (and gals). Really appreciate it. p.s. Thank God there was no music :o]

One of the best instructional I've seen across all subject matters, thank you for taking the time to do this!

Man i like how this guy work. Hes generous with everything.. its never too much

Very informative and well presented.

I love the video, it gives me a new appreciation into why carbon fiber parts are so bloody expensive. I wanted to make parts for my old 82 LeSabre, Buick, just to be different and improve it's economy but had to sell the car. I was slightly regretting it when I read the title to this video then I thought, holy hell you used up like 8 sheets of fiberglass matting, chopmat, and you haven't even made the part yet. I would have rather just stripped the parts off the car, sent them to you and have you do it because to quote another American, "ain't nobody got time fo dat (Kimberly "Sweet Brown" Wilkins)"

Good laminating procedure mostly. The fact you are using the coupling coat and the fine CSm will help ensure the coupling layer conforms tightly to the gel thus limiting chance of air voids. Also copious use of the roller helps get air out as you laminate.

In this video we're using a 200g 2/2 twill 3k carbon fibre for the visible layers. We use a Lantor Soric SF2 core material on the top skin and for the inner skin we use the 2/2 twill 200g fibre again backed-up with a 650g 12k carbon. When you're laying reinforcement into the mould dry it should be quite easy to keep the weave nicely aligned. It normally gets distorted in a wet-lay process when you're pushing it around with a brush or roller. You don't have that problem with resin infusion.

The mould making process (as shown in this video) does produce fumes, you need good ventilation and you could also wear a mask. At normal low levels it's not dangerous. Making the part itself (the resin infusion) is low risk; good ventilation should be adequate. Trimming the part requires (video 3) requires a good mask because you're generating lots of fine dust. Take a look at our new cutting safety video if you want to learn more about masks.

You won't have to wait long, they're all uploading to KZfaq right now... Part 2 is already online!

Great work! Everything perfect! Good tutorial.

Wow!🤩 made that look easy. I really think I could tackle this job. I like how you guys showed how to repair a blemish also..top notch video right here!!

"the most ambitious we are ever likely to take on" - After watching your recent videos! lol not likely... You guys are awesome!

19:30 When you hear that sound in a staff meeting don't move.

This has been brilliant,thanks a lot for making and sharing this tutorial mate

The rolled edge was a function of the moulding process. By careful placement of the flange and use of the wax, you can achieve the neat edge.

insane how an 8 (going on 9) year old video series can make me better than newer videos. Videos like this make me happy that i don't have to go to college.

Fascinating film, but I was totally confused when I saw him laying fibreglass sheets on the part until realised that they were only building the mold :-) Well, off to part 2 then...

Absolutely fantastic! I'll have to try this out once I'm done dealing with rust!

Great job man loved the results of the mold!!!! just amazing

please do some difficult parts like front bumper.. thanks

i like the English accent,might help with my IELTS exam :) but i agree great workmanship !thumbs up

That's one high high standard of shine and quality!!

An excellent, practical video set. Very informative and precise; thank you very much.

You're very unlikely to get bubbles in your gelcoat; I can't think I've ever seen this. In this video we spray the gelcoat; if done right that can put it down very smoothly and bubble free. The time you wait before infusing the resin through would depend on the gelcoat you're using (remember, you can use NO gelcoat and it will work just fine). For the GC50 we used in this video the correct delay would be between 3 and 24hrs.

Very interesting, though I'd personally use vacuum forging to get the shape and would only make one mould, while creating my own structural reinforcement for the other side instead of using the stock one.

Extraordinarily helpful videos! The best I've seen, perfect!

I always felt that making the mold was the hardest part, thanks for the tips.

Do u guys ship to the US?

Who is here because it was recommended after watching b is for build 😜

Great video - very informative. I would love to see a series on doing aircraft layups, ala Rutan Long Eze or a Berkut.

carbon is future, strong and lightweight, thanks easycomposites team for sharing their knowledge!

How much would all the parts used here (excluding the steel hood) cost?

Someone tag B is for build in this video

Lovely video production and thorough explanation. Thank you for sharing.

Great video and amazing mold work, u guys are 2nd to none. You blow Seibon out of the water with your attention to detail

why polish the wax if the purpose is just a release barrier?

Excellent video, kept being drawn away by your sign maker's misspelling of "Highly competAtive pricing." I guess he's trying to make you stand out from your "competation".

Extremely Professional! Thank you! Will be looking into your products!

I think this video is awesome and has helped further my carbon fiber understanding.

@ 19:30

loved the video and thanks for posting. good coverage of detail shots too. also, because I sometimes channel an ancestral spelling nazi, I gotta cringe when i see professional marketing that overlooks misspelled words. (on your marketing board behind you, under "buying made easy" the word competitive is misspelled.) makes your marketing team look sophomoric. seems a small complaint in light of the artistry in the molding work, but... devil in the details, i guess. thanks again for posting.

Yes, that's what I was talking about. The original hood will certainly come out of the new mould no problem but because I ground off the latch and hinge-pins then the original steel part cannot be fitted back on the car (it was only £50 off eBay anyway!). If you want to keep the original in a condition where it can be put back on your car then you would have to work around any bolts or catches which is perfectly do-able but a little more awkward.

wow those panels in the beginning looks really clean

Isn't this more like fiber glass though?

Only job were the sound of something cracking is good.

you are a master!! Great work in the pursuit of perfection.

As always, love your educational videos

19:31 lovely

Who makes cf fenders for a b6 audi

its deserve the five star with out any comment really big thank i really like it-- going to watch parts 2

Last night I some used JB Weld to seal a crack on one of our taillights, so now I know all the ins and outs of epoxy and resin for car applications just like this guy! 😂

Looks like a new shape fiat 500 bonnet, probably wrong though

the best HowTo video Ive ever seen

Nice job so far, beautiful molds

very informative and professional - well done, learnt a lot.

INFUSION!...Don't worry, that's not the only thing I took from the video. I found it extremely informative and helpful!

@samedwards884 That's a Plastic Finned Laminating Roller. They've sort of replaced the old metal rollers used for laminating because the reason doesn't stick to them (they're PTFE) and the plastic roller won't scratch the mould if you touch it accidentally.

You make it look so easy, great job man, i envy you.

Helped me significantly with my IYRS capstone project!

Thank you for sharing this knowledge. I do alot of concreting and shuttering, this is mostly the same principles. I fully understand. Thank you very much👍👍👍👍👍👍

@Fieldpaint haha! It is the same white polo, for the messy stuff (like the trimming at the end) I do the first bit then step out and let someone else finish it!. The rest is all pretty clean.

Awesome video. Enjoyed it from start to finish,

Thanks for taking your time making this tutorial! Keep up the good work! Cheers from Sweden! =D

In total we used about 20kgs of the Uni-Mould resin, 7kgs of chopped strand mat, 5kgs of the coupling coat and 5kgs of the tooling gelcoat however this is a small part (a FIAT 500) and a larger part would require more resins and glass. Remember that we made an inside mould and an outside mould.

Old video but you're doing a fantastic job as a teacher and this has aged very well. The methods are pretty much identical when it comes to aircraft composites. You could probably take this video and teach new aircrafts structures guys how to do the basics of composites with this.

Which is why we use a specialist catalyst dispenser bottle which has accurate measurements on the pouring spout.

Fantastic! Professionally presented, clear and precise. I wish all KZfaq tutorials were as good as this (no naf music or egotistical waffling host). I’ve subscribed and I will be buying the products. 👍👏🏻

For what this is, it is exceptionally well done.

I watch this a couple times, but after you get your head around it, it’s really not as tough as you think you have to watch a couple times and you can understand all the aspects very easily

@xAssaultTeamx I'm afraid I'm not sure what 'pam' is. If its a composites release agent then there's a good chance it will be fine. Different release agents behave differently so it's worth testing first. We really like to use Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent but you can use other systems.

There would be a size difference plus the smooth and rough sides would be opposite to what you want.