🔥 How to Make PLADUR Curtain Rod 💡 3 IDEAS
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✅ If you are going to do some PLADUR work, and you are going to choose to hire a company that does it, I have created a brief guide to help you analyze the budget and avoid common deceptions in the sector.
Go to www.tutorialcreativo.com/guia to download it.
In this video you will see how to make a PLADUR ceiling with a SIERRA PROFILE.
In this case the owner did not want to put insulation on top of the roof.
I always recommend putting it on. Now you will spend a little more on materials, but over time you will have greater savings on heating and air conditioning. You will have better acoustics in the house.
In this case the materials we will use are:
- U-profile
- Profile f47.
- Sierra profile (toothed)
-Channel 48
- 12.5mm plasterboard plate.
- Metric threaded rods 6
- M6 Brass Studs: amzn.to/3zSYeWZ
- Nuts for M6: amzn.to/3BUVni3
- 5mm plastic plugs: amzn.to/3eAevaV
- 4x35 Screws: amzn.to/3xPaWVS
- 25 drywall screws: amzn.to/3hOzoB4
Tools we usually use:
- One level: amzn.to/3BgU8cD
- Laser level: amzn.to/3rGZqK2
- Laser level: amzn.to/3rGUQeD
- A pen: amzn.to/3rmnLVu
- One meter: amzn.to/3etCB7h
- A cutter: amzn.to/2VS7xrb
- A pencil: amzn.to/3zbzI2P
- A drill: amzn.to/36IMtFJ
- 5 Bit: amzn.to/3eRsU2P
- A screwdriver: amzn.to/3exW4nm
Video transcript:
Today we will mount a ceiling with serrated profiles in this room.
I am going to take these 2 walls as references, since they form a 90º square.
We are going to place the toothed profiles parallel to the shortest side of the room. Since the slab is solid and I can drill anywhere.
On the two long sides of the room, for the perimeter we will use a 48 channel to be able to fit the toothed profiles inside.
To hold the channel we use plastic plugs of 5 with 4x35 screws.
We always pay attention, when drilling, if the electricity or plumbing pipes go down towards the wall, so as not to pierce any.
On the short sides of the room, we use U-profile so that we can then fit the f47 profile.
We make a measure to cut some rods, we measure from the slab to the laser line and give it 2cm more.
We use metric 6 rod with brass studs and nuts.
The teeth should be at a distance of about 95 cm from each other.
For the first notch we measure 95cm from the wall.
Between rod and rod there must be a distance of 90cm.
We cut the toothing in the center of the tooth, so that later we agree to place the f47 profile at 50cm from the wall.
We will use the notches to mark and thus make the rod fit well in the hole, since they are short rods and there is no margin to tilt them a little later.
We drilled with a metric 8 bit.
To tighten the rods, we simply bend the rod a bit, insert the plug part into the hole and twist.
To know if it is squeezing, it is very simple: we listen to the sound it makes. Then we straighten it.
For the following notches, we simply hook the ruler on the placed rod and mark 95cm. Then we repeat the same thing we did with the first.
Now we place the teeth. We make sure to place the part where we cut the tooth towards the wall that we take as a reference.
We mark the wall 50 by 50cm to have a reference to place the f47 profiles.
The f47 profiles must go at a distance of 50cm from each other.
We will place them one to one side and one to the other.
To cut the pieces, we put the profile against the wall and cut 5mm before reaching the other.
To join them, we used leftover pieces of profile f47.
Once all profiles are placed, we level the structure. We make sure that the f47 profile is about 2mm above the laser, we bring the nuts closer and tighten.
We can fix the toothing to the channel with a screw.
Although here the property did not put insulation, I recommend always putting it. In the end you will have less noise from the house above and better thermal quality.
To place the plasterboard plates, if you don't have the machine or help, we nail some spikes on the wall to support the plate.
We screw at a distance of about 24cm.
For the next row of plates, we cut a 1m piece to cross the head cuts.