Hi Pat, I really do appreciate your kind comments and they certainly lift my spirits. Thank you. Peter

pat dee I absolutely concur!👍🏻

Hi Rodger, That was filmed with an iPhone. I wish I had the main camera available as the sound system would have captured that wonderful sound which goes with the action. Cheers. Peter

Many thanks Rico. This door was quite simple but the barn doors that I made a few years ago were a real challenge as they were 12 feet high with a diagonal top rail - and in the days before I bought my first Domino machine. Cheers. Peter

Glad it was helpful!

Hi Darrel, I certainly do not want to catch my fingers in the door if the wind blows ! Many thanks. Peter

Hi Howard, Many thanks. Peter

Many thanks. Peter

Hi Chris, You are very kind and I will continue to do my best - times are quite tough. I wish you and your family the very best. Peter

Hi Frank, Nobody ever taught me that and it is not obvious from most manuals (certainly Festool ones). I met a chap at a woodworking show years ago and he had his hand bandaged because he had fed a piece of wood into his router table the wrong way and it zoomed in and he was cut before he could take his hand away. Cheers. Peter

Exactly! Many thanks. Peter

Thank you!

Thank you so much - feedback like yours really helps. Cheers. Peter

Hi Michael, Lap joints will work as will pocket holes but do get a good fit for the cross braces. Cheers. Peter

Hi Paul, By not buying new ready made doors or employing someone to fix this you will pay for all of the tools that you need - that is how I have justified my tool collection and not looked back. Cheers. Peter

Hi Hayden, The only problem with lock down projects is the ability to get materials. I can do mail order to Axminster and some of the other places but when I needed cement and ready mix in the early stages it was a nightmare. Cheers. Peter

Hi Christopher, Many thanks. Peter

Thank you so much. Peter

Thanks, you too!

Hi Fred, You have made my day (and my week). Many thanks. Peter

Thank you very much!

Hi Paul, Thank you - I have no idea why someone watches a video only to give a thumbs down - surely they can just not bother watching in the first place ! Cheers. Peter

Glad you enjoyed it

Good to know!

Many thanks Fabio. Cheers. Peter

Hi Philip, I was dreading the glue-up but it was far easier than I had imagined. I do not usually have to go to much effort to adjust for square at the end of a glue-up. I did this time but it was easier when I clamped one side of the frame. Cheers. Peter

Hi Stuart, I am a touch arthritic and moving from planing to thicknessing is less demanding (for me) with the Jet machine. I have explained this to Axminster and they understand the advantage of a single lift change. Cheers. Peter

Keep it up

Hi Steven, Many thanks and stay safe. Cheers. Peter

Hi Keith, It is a Swan, oil less from Axminster. The best compressor that I have ever had. Cheers. Peter

Cheers. Peter

Hi Marcos, You are very kind and many thanks. Peter

Hi Jim, I used normal planed all round soft wood from the timber merchant. The smaller dominos are 6 x 4 mm (see that at about 9 mins 30 secs). I use my aged Numatic NVD 750 connected to the planer via an Axminster 4" Cyclone (product code 105872) with the dust dropping into a plastic dustbin that I use as a drop box. Peter

Hi Brendan, Your width will be fine but try to beef up the top rail if you can and do not reduce the width of the other rails (mine are about 130 mm wide). Yes, the next best thing to the Domino is a technique to make accurate floating tenon joints with a router. It will take 3 times as long though. Good luck. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop I have had success with 10mm dowels that are about 40mm long. They make a strong joint and I am surprised you would suggest screwing through the stile rather than use dowels for those of us not in the Festool budget echelon.

@@TR4zest Hi Brian, Which is quicker? This is a utility item and not destined for Buckingham Palace. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop That was not my point. You mentioned dominos, mortice and tenon and screwing through the stile. I just think dowels are often ignored. Never mind.

Hi Wayne, It is a Swan Oiless compressor from Axminster. It runs very quiet and works a treat. Cheers. Peter

New Brit Workshop thank you forgetting back to me once again Peter. Love the channel you’re doing a fantastic job.

Perhaps I can give you some advice which may help you buy some better tools. I started working for money 60 years ago. For the first 10 or so years when I had a full time job I also worked 5 or 6 sessions a week behind a bar. I did other work in my spare time, cutting grass and hedges, repairing fences and digging gardens. My wife also had a full time job but looked after old people at weekends or did cleaning work. We worked through almost all of our holidays in the early years. We did not waste money on smoking, drinking, subscription TV and even now have never bought a new mobile phone. In recent years we have been able to enjoy the results of all of this. We would often cycle to Poole Harbour and sit and eat our sandwiches looking across the water at the super yachts. We would imagine what it would be like to go aboard one but would never feel jealous of the owners or their success in life. I respect people for what they have achieved because success rarely comes without a lot of effort. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for that advice. Sadly, it won’t work for me - it comes too late. I suspect we are of similar vintage, for I began to earn my living almost as many years ago as you. I began working life as an apprentice cabinet maker in the mid-60s, but was just not good enough to make the grade. Since that time I followed a different path, one that satisfied my curiosity and allowed me to live in relative comfort, but didn’t put money in the bank. Woodworking has been a pastime, not a profession. Most of my tools I inherited in good condition, and I’ve maintained them in that condition. They serve me well in the tasks I set them. So as to lead to consistency (for instance when I make a series of items for gifts, say) I’ve invested in a couple of mid-range power tools. But on a state pension, that is about as much as my pastime can afford. I’m sorry, Mr Parfitt, that you seem to have misinterpreted my comment; at any rate I believe you mistook my mixture of admiration and rueful envy for

criticism. That’s a pity. It wasn’t meant as such.

Hi Chris, The stiles and top rail are 40 mm x 92 mm finished size. The intermediate rails and braces are 20 mm x 130 mm finished size. These could be just 110 mm wide. Good luck. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop thanks Peter!

Hi Penny, Many thanks. Peter

Hi Andy, It just makes it easier given the layout of the path nearby. Cheers. Peter

Hi Sam, I have every confidence that this door will last for a very long time. The glue is unlikely to fail as long as the door does not start to stick in its frame - prompt remedial action will prevent this putting any strain on the glued joints. If one uses Cascamite glue the chance of glue failure reduces as it is waterproof. Peter

Yes, 4 x 2 for the stiles and top rail. The middle rail and bottom rail were about 1" x 8" in order to give room in front for the tongue and groove. The braces were about 1" x 6". Peter

I have picked up all of my knowledge over many years and it is far from perfect. The key thing is always to make it a dash stronger than you think necessary and put a lot of effort into the roof as it is always the roof that looks bad first on old sheds. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks very much indeed for sharing that knowledge with us all, Peter.

Hi Jason, No, not seen that Makita but will take a look. I used the Festool OF1010 (a very neat and sweet small router). Cheers. Peter

New Brit Workshop I have the OF1010 as well, it is a great little router. Sorry, I meant the actual router cutter bit? The way it cut the hinges out looked smooth and easy without any jig or template. Cheers

Hi Jason, It was a 16 mm twin flute on a 1/4" shaft. Peter

New Brit Workshop thanks Peter.

Hi Graeme, I have done in the past but with T&G the drips need to run off, even from the V grooves. So, I think it better to let the rain water drain straight down and away. Cheers. Peter

The exposed end at the bottom is not an issue as any moisture will drain downwards. It is a good idea to protect an upper exposed end which I did by applying the outdoor oil to that area. Many thanks for your support. Peter

Hi Geoffrey, That list may be tricky to produce - I will investigate. Cheers. Peter

Hi Geoffrey, I have mentioned you in my recent video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/guCKqbFqxte8iqs.html Many thanks. Peter

Hi Kristoffer, Perhaps you are too far away ! Cheers. Peter

Hi Paul, It is a webbing strap from an old bag. It is about 700 mm long and has a clip at each end. I wrapped it around the hose twice and it helps to keep it out of the way and also the webbing spreads the load unlike rope that would damage the hose. Peter

Hi Robert, I love it - i think my swear box got filled up years ago ! I will never use pocket hole joints. I hate them. However, I have every respect for those that use them and are able to produce an accurate result. I have tried them and found it difficult to stop the relative movement between the two parts as the screw is going in at an angle which puts a horizontal component of the force across the joint. Cheers. Peter

New Brit Workshop Peter I agree with you about the pocket hole screws.... for the most part. I will use them on a door (a barn or shed door. Not on cabinet doors) or something where I can’t hid the pocket holes but I first use my domino machine, make my pocket holes, glue the dominos and everything together and clamp it then use the pocket screws to replace the clamps. I really only use them if I am running low on clamps or doing a big project and can’t commit to using that many clamps. But I rarely get that low on clamps.... Ron

Hi Michael, I have four hinges for added strength and security. I am having trouble finding timber suppliers with the range of stock that I need and so I had to buy what was available. Take care. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop understood. Maybe hinge bolts would better for security as the door opens outwards.

Hi Dylan, The OF1010 is a gem. I love it and use it more than any other router. Cheers. Peter

​@@NewBritWorkshop if you recall, I bought the OF1010 based on your video and advice.

Hi John, I had drawn my plan in a professional drawing package and made a conscious decision to have the door at the width I wanted (to get the mower in and out). Good suggestion though - thanks. Peter

Hi David, The DF500 will do an excellent job. Depending on the thickness of the stiles and top rail you could use four 10 mm x 50 mm dominoes (or is it dominos). Good luck. Peter

Hi Craig, The wood framing is softwood and will suffer at the same rate as beech so there is no point putting in a more resilient type of domino. Also, the door is such that it will never get soaking wet and may, at worst, suffer at the very bottom. Peter

I have been working in 30 degree C and have no problems with normal Titebond II. You should have 20 minutes to get the clamping done and if it is taking longer look at your glue-up plan rather than the glue itself. Alternatively try Cascamite which has a much longer dwell time. Peter

​@@NewBritWorkshop, Thank you for your suggestion of Cascamite. The other thing you mentioned in your video was to pre glue the dominos in the members. Like the strategy you mention at about 15:30 and that does speed up the assembly time. You must be careful to wipe off all the squeeze-out pre glue the dominos. I didn't see any glue squeeze-out in your video. I'm going to search your videos to see if you demonstrate your domino gluing technique.

Hi Liam, It is a Veritas low angle jack plane. Peter

Hi Paul, I did and it was higher than my cabinet making wood at about 17% I think - from memory. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Peter what brand meter do you use? I haven’t been able to convince myself to spend a few $100’s on one. Often I’ll ask the mill to check for me when I buy the wood if I’m concerned

Hi Paul, I use a Wagner. It works really well and I am very pleased. Here is the video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lcmXlKmYq7rUd40.html Peter

Many thanks for this. Cheers. Peter

Is it normal to not have the frame across the bottom? It just looks a little out of balance without a bottom rail?

billywhizz101 on external doors yes to allow rain to run off the door When this pattern of door is made for internal use it’s optional to have a full depth rail or as in the gate example Pete made a rail set behind the boarding

Hi John, Thanks for the tip. Cheers. Peter

I've heard this before actually but talking about biscuits, and people storing them in air tight containers

I had no choice in order to get the size I wanted. I am still looking for a decent timber supplier in my area. Peter

Hi Javier, Thank you so much. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop I from Colombia

Hi Paul, When marking or fitting? It is easier for both operations. Peter

I normally put them on the jamb then with the door in place I mark the door for hinge location. Maybe it’s a USA thing?

Yes, it is and very easy to make. Peter