Just getting into woodworking. Your speech and presentation is 10/10!! These videos are such a pleasure to watch.

“It’s not a piece of furniture, it’s a tool” love it

Hi Peter, brilliant thank you Steve

Thanks again Peter. Great ideas, always.....

You sir, are a joy to watch. 👍

How simple ! What a great video-many thanks peter

What a simple yet very effective method of making drawers. Great stuff Peter...

Great job as always, Sir.

Thanks for the info on the clamps!

Thanks Peter, love your drawers mate.

Nice work Peter! I've used the technique for small trinket boxes and trays but hadn't thought about using it for larger things like these drawers. As you say, lots of advantages, not least being able to build without clamps. Thanks for sharing!

what a clever technique.

Many thanks Peter.

Very good , excelent explanation , Very Nice vídeo , thank you , Peter.

Superb, I feel better after watching this. It's a very effective and reliable method that absolutely brings a level of satisfaction as one folds the drawers together! lol. Cheers David.

That’s exactly the type of build to use under my work bench to utilise space. Thank you.

Quickly made, totally acceptable shop drawers. Nice job, Peter.

Nicely done👍

I know you put this up a long time ago but, as with your other videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge!

What a joy to see you back Peter 👍

I have used the tape-miter clamp method before and also had good results with good miter cuts. Also love the recycling for shop stuff.

Thanks Peter I'm going to try this tomorrow!

Well done Mate thank you for the tipp

very very nice tips !! Thank you !

Nice, very nice indeed.

Great video Peter

Perfection!!

Very nice, thanks Peter! Ordered the Axminster BS11 thanks to your nice review. Going to watch your other videos as well. Not having all the nice tools that you have, except the Ts75 track saw, so will have to use the bandsaw for most cuts.

Wonderful demonstration of how to make this type of drawer or any other box. The vise stand looks very nice, not odd at all. I often use recycled wood since it can be better quality than some of the wood easily available here.

Thanks

Hi Peter, great video as always. This is the same technique I tried the other day on my CNC machine. Do a toolpath of rectangles or squares and perform the cuts with a 90 degree v bit cutting exactly flush with the bed. I did six sides glued it up them cut off a lid when dry.

Genius

It’s been my understanding and experience, if you have flat stock, straight stock and it’s cut square it will align and frame square or box square in this example with your drawers... God work... Greg

hi Peter, thanks for the great video, I will use this system myself in the near future, may I ask where you purchased the clamps you used on the draw fronts? Keep up the good work!

Hello Peter. Excellent video as always. I always enjoy you videos and always learn a trick or two. At the 14:50 mark what was the tool you were using as a vice to hold the draw front while you were planing the edge? I have never seen that device before. I am looking forward to your next video since you have finished the shed. Cheers Ron

It must be a Brit thing, but your voice reminds me of David Attenborough. And that's good. Whether I ever use this technique or not, I learned something today. And that's also good.

Thank you for very useful idea. I would like to know if you have a jig to drill the drawers handles.

Thank you Peter! Can I ask you- where did you get that large engineers square from? It's something I've coveted for a long time and always meant to ask you about.

I have seen a technique for making these type of 90 degree but joints much stronger. You would need a box cut blade for your table saw, which is a blade with squared off teeth rather than angled ones. Then you need a jig that you can slide along your fence that holds each edge of the drawer/box at 45 degrees to the table saw surface. Set the blade height equal to the width of the corner joint. Using this jig make 2 or more cuts across the corner joint. In the slots that are made, glue in strips of wood equal to the width of the blade's cut. Then trim/sand the strips flush with the box/drawer sides. This lends a strength to the joint similar to a box cut joint. They can even be a bit decorative if you use different colored woods for the strips than for the box.

Good video Peter, very informative. How do you like your Festool tablesaw compared to a cabinet saw? If I remember correctly you used to have a larger saw? And at the 14:52 mark you had what looks like a bench clamp of some sort.... Can you do a short segment on that? Also, how did you determine your drawer size and placement and how did you mount the drawer slides? I always like to see how others do it and with as much detail as possible because I always pick up some tips to improve my current methods. Many thanks Peter. Ron

Peter that was great, and i am a total convert to your Parfdog system and find it now essential when making anything. The one aspect of making a set of drawers using the metal draw runners that worries me is setting out the runners themselves. I saw a short clip of you fitting the runners in this video; is there a chance you could show us to do this the easy way? Many thanks.

Hi Peter, Love the simplicity of this draw construction. Can I ask what type of cutter you have set up in the router to make the slots to accept the drawer base. Thanks Mark.

Hi Peter, great video thank you. Is this method just suitable for plywood and MDF?

Love your genius and creativity. I want to get the Parf guide system to create benchtops and to use it with my DeWalt track saw. Unfortunately, there is no video on how to attach the Dewalt track to the your benchtop in a secure way as to preserve the great accuracy of your system. I wish you could come up with a video demonstrating such an application as I am certain that I am not the only one wishing to adapt my Dewalt track to the Parf system in an exact way. Thank you.

Have you done a video on the festool table saw ? Thanks

Thanks for sharing. I have similar built cabinets in my workshop. However, I would question the suitability of the drawer construction. I agree, the method is good enough for small boxes or even for the lipping to your new bench where the joints are not subjected to the huge forces present when opening and closing the drawers, particularly if the drawers contain heavy objects as used in metalworking. Adding a couple of splines across the mitres will considerably strengthen the joints and ensure a durable and longer lasting drawer.

Hey Peter, good to see you again! Surprised you used the straight edge over some parf dogs. I use them on my bench for aligning projects and to steal one of your phrases everything comes out “Spot On”. Good luck with the move.

@New Brit Workshop Unrelated to the video. So I've just waxed a table I made from scaffold boards using briwax. Doesn't seem very hard wearing. Is there a way I can apply some osmo polyx oil to it ?

Good Job Peter just one thing no castors on the unit ?

Peter, I love your videos on woodworking. My favourite was how to install gas struts. However in this particular episode I have to point out at 11:46 when you offer up the square it is not 'absolutely spot on' ! There is a clear gap at the bottom of the square and no gap at the top. No big deal maybe, but I've come to expect the best from you 🙂 That aside, I will always value your woodworking tips and techniques. Keep 'em coming 😊

Hi Peter Another great film, you make it look so easy. Can you please tell me how I can get some plans (pillar drill stand) as I cannot find any way on you tube to send you a P.M. (or am I just a bit thick)!

Hi Peter, where do you source your wood, (oak etc), faced MDF or ply from? TIA

Hi Peter, as always I enjoyed Your video. What is that vice You are using to support drawer fronts while planing edges. Is it posible that You made a video about it?

Hello Peter, I don’t have a Kapex or similar saw, have you found it possible to cut the mitres with the TS55?

Nice job. Do you have a site with bed plans for purchase

Nice video Peter, why do you let the mitre saw stop before removing the work piece?

How does the right fence backer piece stay put hence its so low? Double stick tape?

Did you make any allowance for movement in the top when applying your mahogany edging? It looks very attractive, but it seems you are seeing yourself up for problems down the line.

Hey Peter, I see Ron Paulk has named your Parf guide-system as his tool of the year 2018. More exposure for you on the other side of the pond! Regards Barry

How do you make an 8x5 table to support the holed board, because if it isn’t perfectly level and flat, the board may distort so you get inaccurate cuts…

Great vid as usual, lets hope the children don't come back !

very helpful video, however i was hoping to see how you fit the drawer slides too !

Nice method, but I was always taught to never glue the bottom into the slots to allow for expansion and contraction.

I think I’ve seen Festool sandpaper used to shim the sides for the face fronts for alignment. The washers are a good idea. You could probably use some coin money if you had no washers. Not sure what English Monet looks like.

What is the idea behind waiting for the blade to stop? surely it can catch when it is lowered too?

Hi Peter, Nice video, I'm going to attempt to make some sliding kitchen draws could you tell me the size of material your using. cheers Bob.

As always..."Brilliant!". I learned a lot. And so simple. But that is not unusual with our "Peter Parfitt. Now isn't it? Thanks brother

Peter, hello! I am watching your channel with interest. I wanted to ask you one question, but I could not find your email in the "about channel" section. Kind regards.

Hi Peter, Would you mind if i ask you a quick question relating to draw runners. When you size your box, you deduct the diameter of the slides, but do you allow any further dimension reduction for the box. Many thanks. Mark.

If you use the MFT as a place for glueing, why don't you use parf dogs to make a right angle?

Ahhhh rebates... rabbits make my teeth itch :-)

Peter, you are famous in the USA now. See Ron Paulk's latest video.

Can you use this technique for heavy kitchen drawers? Sam Jacob, Bangalore.

Instead of the straight edge, wouldn't parf dogs be easier to get the alignment? Just a thought....

Plywood is half endgrain, making the glue seam weak. Add to that that every time you open the drawer you are literally pulling the front away from the drawer box and the fact that you’ll be using it for heavy tools and it is 100% sure to fail over time. Without mechanical fastening this is absolutely incorrect for building drawers that will last. This is not my opinion, this is the wisdom of a million furniture makers over the years.

Hi Peter. How's the move going? Got any pics? I just posted my domino mortise block as instructed in your video on my instagram page at @chipper338