It’s a fantastic tool.

There are 2 planes for different thickness boards, nice planes The new ones are better than getting antique Stanley’s

Hi, I was wondering about grain direction. You obviously won't have an opinion to go with the grain all the time using this tool, does it preform well against the grain? Thanks

I haven't used it much, but when I have used it, I haven't had any issues with tear out; keep blade razor sharp, and you be fine.

I still have some and I still really like them. But the bench planes and most of the joinery planes were replaced about 4 years ago. There were several reasons. (1) When I moved to VA I moved into a shop that was not climate controlled. The wooden planes didn’t like it and the large humidity swings caused movement issues that I got tired of dealing with and constantly lapping and fixing. So I switched to metal where I could. (2) I started teaching more classes and had a hard time recommending wooden planes to my students because decent users have become more and more difficult to find on the old tools market. Great new ones are available but very expensive and not all of my students can afford to buy all new planes. Good old iron is still readily available at reasonable prices. (3) In classes, I found I spent less time having to fettle students’ metal planes as opposed to wooden planes that often needed significantly more work.

That makes sense. Fortunately my workshop is in my basement and I don't have extreme humidity changes. I have a few wooden planes and really like them.

livewiya Tighter tolerances for sure. Also better quality control. I spent some time troubleshooting a #48 for a student one time and it turned out that because of a flaw in the casting, the blades could not be aligned parallel. It was able to be fixed with some careful filing of the casting but was not an easy problem to diagnose. But it kept him from being able to create an acceptable joint with the tool. A quick ebay search of completed auctions shows that the vintage #48s sell anywhere from $70-150 depending on condition. I personally would not spend more than $50-70 on a vintage one if I was going to have to do any kind of significant work on it, especially if there’s a chance of a similar casting flaw like the one my student’s plane had. And I’d have a really hard time spending $100 or more for an old Stanley when the new LN is only $195. These are not one of LN’s more expensive tools in my opinion and for the small price difference there’s a significant jump in precision. In my opinion this is one tool where the LN is worth the slightly higher price tag.

@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking I must say, I'm fortunate to not be too concerned about the price or price difference but I do think these are all great points. I should note to anyone else reading this, they've recently increased the price to $225 USD. (I generally consider most LN tools to be good value - understanding what these tools cost craftsmen back then, in terms of number of day's wages, LN products could be considered absolute bargains). All that being said, you've lead me to think I'll purchase the LN, (and only later get a vintage swing-fence T&G if I can handle/assess it in person).

When T&G is used in furniture it is typically used in areas that are not glued, such as cabinet backs and chest floors. In these situations the boards are just typically nailed on so that they can expand and contract freely with the seasons. The tongue and groove allows the boards to expand and contract individually while still preventing gaps from opening between the boards. It also helps keep the edges aligned. You can also use tongue and groove as an alignment aid when edge gluing. It adds a little strength but it’s more helpful for alignment than it is for added strength.

In this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pd6nirx0tbyueJ8.html , Franz explains that the half-lap joint is used for decorative purposes and to avoid seeing through. Is the tongue and groove used in cabinetmaking in the same way?

@@alexponcho2279 Yes, T&G works the same as a ship lap but it keeps the boards’ edges aligned better than a ship lap.

Hi, I'm guessing you can't always use this tool with the grain, how does it preform against the grain? Thanks

Quarter sawn white oak

Boris CACHE Lol, nah. We didn’t even put one in our house when we built it. We rarely get above 85 F / 29 C where I live during the day and most evenings it cools down into the 60s F/ 15-18 C, even in the hottest part of the year. So I can be warm during the day but it’s always much cooler for us at night here in the mountains. I’m in a basement/garage anyway with no way to put one in if I wanted. I just happen to sweat a lot when I’m working, even in winter. It has just been extra humid where I am recently.

No, I didn’t film the beginning of this. It was not very exciting. Just milling lumber and making dados and rabbets, which I’ve done videos of before.

@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking fair enough. Will you nail the back ?

Yep.

Sorry, I missed this question. Look up tripod table construction. They use a sliding dovetail. Best way to make a tripod type stand that I know of.

Bob Rozaieski Fine Woodworking have you made one ? Thanks for your answer btw!;)

ikust007 No I haven’t made one.

Bob Rozaieski Fine Woodworking ok . Will try . Not very fast one to make the though

Tongue and groove plane.

@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking yep , I meant the maker ?? ist veritas ?? looks nice ??

Oh, sorry. It’s a Lie-Nielsen #49.

@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking is there an American site can I buy it from ??

Yes, there are multiple, including direct from Lie Nielsen Toolworks. You might just want to Google Lie-Nielsen tongue & groove plane and see which retailers come up as I’m not sure who’s going to have it in stock and who can ship to you if you’re not in the US.