Welcome to my channel, Homes for Beginners where I show you how to do repairs around the house yourself. Please don't forget to hit that LIKE button and SUBSCRIBE for future videos.
In this video I will be showing you how to make a wooden slate platform. I made this for this enclosed trailer which is being used for storage, with our sandy environment, it can get messy fairly quick. So this gives us an area to walk on to clean off your shoes before going into the trailer. This design can be easily adapted for a variety of projects such as a larger walkway, smaller stepping platforms like patio stones, a bench, tabletop, privacy panel, etc.
The dimensions and quantity of wood will vary depending on your project. The total width will be 71” and the depth is 22.5”. The nominal size is 2x2 and its actual size is 1.5x1.5". Therefore the depth of the platform will be based on multiple 1.5 boards put together. However I do find some wood isn’t exactly 1.5" and there may be variation such as an 1/8", so some boards will be cut when it’s partially put together.
First was cutting the boards to length. I do find they’re not always square from the lumber yard or can have a rough cut, so this was all touched on the miter saw. Next was measuring each of the inner pieces, if you want the exact platform I’m making, I’ll provide the measurements along the way. These pieces were 68” and there was a total of 6.
Cutting the spacer blocks in between each of the slats. I need a total of 28 spacers, they are 3 1/2” in length. I used the shortest pieces that couldn’t be used for anything else to make my spacers, reducing the amount of waste. Now it’s held together with a bar clamp to ensure there are no spaces between the slats and spacer blocks. These spacer blocks will be screwed into place for a smoother look.
Cutting the 2x4s for the bottom, they are 22 1/2” in length. Only 2 are needed. The platform will have a 1.5” space on the bottom so it’s not directly on the ground and these 2x4s also serve as a way of fastening the slats.
Next is 2 2x6s, serving the same purpose as the 2x4s and are the same length. These will be located on the outside of the platform. With the miter saw set to 45 degree, this can be referenced using the speed square as the factory presets can sometimes be off. Now is cutting the perimeter boards. First is the side boards, make the first cut and then measure over from that cut to the next cut point. I am starting at the 1” increment as I can’t clip the tape measure on the inside edge. Just make sure you add 1” to the final measurement when doing this, the inside measurement is 19 1/2” but I would need to make my mark at 20 1/2”.
The same 45 degree cuts are made for the longer boards. Make the first cut on the one side. This measurement is already known from the previous longer slats. To keep the tape measure in place at the 1” increment, I used a clamp. Then make the final cuts.
Due to the rough cut of the wood, I sanded everything using a handheld sander with 220 grit sandpaper. This will help remove any sticking up fibers and clean the edges.
Before the platform gets assembled, next is the wood treatment. I am using the Shou Sugi Ban method, this is a great way for treating wood as you don’t have to worry about peeling stain, this provides a great barrier against moisture, is inspect resistant and has minimal maintenance. To screw the boards down into the base boards, 2 1/2” screws are used. To screw the perimeter board to each of the slats, 3” screws are used here.
Only the slates have screws going down from the top and from the side, the spacer blocks only have one screw as they’re purely for aesthetics. The screws on the top are kept in line but are also far enough in where they’re not interfering with the 3” screws.
Installing the inner boards, these are the 2x4s. This will prevent any flex in the center, along with keeping the platform more rigid. The centerline measure from the outside edge is 23” which leaves the spacing very close to being even. All the spacer blocks were installed, drilled, and then everything was screwed into place.
As for the final protective coating, I’m using an equal parts mixture of linseed oil and turpentine. The linseed oil is dumped into a metal bowl, then heated using a torch to improve it’s flow, helping it soak into the wood. Once it’s boiling, turn the torch off and add an equal amount of turpentine. This would be a 50/50 mixture.
Using a brush, apply it to the wood. The turpentine will thin out the oil, also helping with absorption and improving drying. Apply the oil to every surface of the wood, it does soak into the wood quite quickly so apply a heavy amount. Flip it over and apply the oil to the opposite side.
© Homes for Beginners 2019
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.