Yes! These are perfect for all that scrap! That also gives them a very high profit margin since you're not paying for materials, especially once you get better and faster at making them. Make sure you watch my videos on the assembly jig and Star Templates I make for these crosses, they are game changers in batching them out. I also have a video on the bottle openers that are also made with the scraps from flags, so check that out too.

Thanks, Ed!

This was one of my first videos. I've gotten better at editing now, but you just can't please everyone.

That's a great idea, Matt, I'll try that. Thanks!

Thanks! I've evolved to doing shorter videos with less detail because that's what the majority of people want and many complain when it's too long or detailed. I'm happy to see some still appreciate it though. Thanks for watching.

Thanks. This was my first build video and I've learned a lot since then. I've gotten better at editing out extraneous stuff, but even with the few negative comments about it, this is my most viewed video by a wide margin. In retrospect I probably could have made a different video about my miter saw setup, but like you said, it seems most people appreciate having the extra info and don't mind the extra length.

You're absolutely welcome Marcus! As veteran myself, I'm sure he will greatly appreciate that!

Man, that's awesome! Do you have any pictures of it? I'd love to see it. If you do, send it to me at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com.

It is a bit time consuming at first, until you get your process down. Batching definitely makes a difference, but having an assembly jig is game changing. I have a video on mine. Check it out if you haven't seen it already.

Thank you, and you're very welcome! Make sure you check out the latest video on the jig I made for assembling these crosses.

I did! There's a video on it. I've made and sold around 30 of them. Check out that video.

Thank you!

You're welcome, and thanks for watching. Yeah, all that sorting is definitely not necessary as long a you are ok with the randomness of the results, but I will literally have a hard time sleeping if I don't, lol. It can be time consuming to make these if you're only doing one, but if you batch them in larger numbers is much better. One would take a few hours by itself, but 20, for example, like I did here, you can get down to less than an hour per cross on average once you get the hang of it.

Thank you

You're very welcome! I'm glad you liked it.

I'm glad you got something useful out of it!

Thanks, Larry, glad you liked it!

Thanks. Yeah, these are a great way to use your 1x scraps and get a really good profit margin if you sell. I will definitely film that jig build when I do it, so keep an eye out for that. In the meantime, lots of other build videos and a shop tour on the horizon.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking I already subscribed so I don't miss it. Thanks again.

Thanks Jerry, I appreciate it!

Yeah, sounds like that would work good too. The brace will cover the marks so they can't be seen. Thanks for watching.

Thanks a lot Rick! I really appreciate the support. I'm glad you reminded me about the star spacing jig--I'll get to work on that as soon as I can. I will definitely be making an assembly jig for these, but it might be a few months.

Cool! Small world. Do you woodwork as well?

@@maverickdesignswoodworking oh yeah, my shop is a half mile from yours, i started conley caseworks for a large commercial contractor some 30 years ago, we did alot of highend commercial stuff like reception areas and conference room tables, all kinds of stuff, once i retired from there my wife and i started refabulous furniture where we did up cycling and refinishing ans i built custom furniture, we actually did a bunch of stuff with buffalo reuse and habitat for humanity, it got to big it was like 3 full time jobs for the wife and i, not what we wanted for our retirement years so we shut that down, I still do alot of woodworking, i build alot of custom entry doors and post and beam stuff

Thanks, Laura, glad you liked it.

That really depends on your climate and finish. With lacquer, like in the video, you will be replacing it every year probably. Same if you live in a harsh environment like I do, regardless of how you finish it. If you finished it with a good exterior grade finish and live in a moderate climate, and keep up with the finish regularly, maybe a few years? The wood will hold up fine, but the finish and stain not so much. As cheap and easy as they are to make, if I wanted to put it outside, I'd probably use a spar urethane and just replace it every year.

I am going to, I just haven't had time. I'll be making another batch in the next month or so, and my plan is to make a jig first. When I do, I'll film it and post the video.

I used to use marshmallow, which is one of the old formula colors. Watch my 2 videos on staining flag projects of you want the codes and to know how to get them and which stain to use. I still use true blue and scarlet, but also use pure white now, which is one of the new formula colors. Both whites are good. I make about half of my crosses with white stain and half without any strain on the white stripes, just the wood.

All good ideas. I actually know you should chamfer the base of that fence. I'm not sure why I didn't think to do it. Thanks for reminding me. I have also been wanting to get a zero clearance insert for the base, I just haven't done it yet. I'm glad you got some good tips out of it.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking zero clearance inserts are expensive, i just used isorel (the cardboard/melamine backing at the back of ikea furniture ) and double sided tape.

Rockler has a pretty nice simple jig specifically for keyholes, too.

I also made an assembly jig for these crosses. It's awesome. There's a video on it as well.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking nice. I'll have to check both out

Anything from 120 to 220.

I do it on the router table using 2 stop blocks. I show it at 15:44

All of pieces are 2.5 wide (short pieces are 5 inches long), which makes it 27.5 tall, and the long pieces are 18.5 long.

Send me an email at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com and we'll get you squared away.

Yes, the same 1 inch stars. Because the stripes are also 1.5 inches wide like the flag, you could literally cut this shape out of a full flag and get the same thing. I even use the same star template I use on the flags to place the stars.

Thanks, Mike! I assume your goal with that is to get the cross closer to the wall? If so, instead of doing that, I would suggest just using 1/4 inch plywood as a backer. It's a little more work, because you would have to cut the cross shape out for each, but I've seen other makers do it like that. I suppose your idea would work as well if you want something in the middle. I just like using the full backer because it gives the cross a kind of floating effect when mounted, and that extra rigidity ensures that there wont be any bending of the cross. That's probably unlikely with such small pieces anyway, but I do like the piece of mind of knowing it won't. As for the keyhole, it should be fine any way you choose to do it. The thinner backer or the plywood won't be deep enough by themselves, but when laminated to the cross you also have the depth of the cross pieces to work with.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thanks Tom! You are an excellent teacher and I am now a new subscriber. Keep the great videos coming!

Thank you. I appreciate the enthusiasm!

Hi Dan. Mine is the 1.75 hp PCS with 36 inch fence and ICS mobile base. I have 2 videos about it. One is the unboxing and assembly, and the other is the final setup, first cuts and initial thoughts. Basically, what you'll need to decide is how much power you need, and how big of a fence you want. In my experience so far, the 1.75 hp cuts just about everything without issue, but if you think you might be cutting a whole lot of really thick hard wood (with most of the blade extended) you might want to consider more hp, but for the average user 1.75 is enough. As for the fence, I break down sheets on mine and 36 inches is enough. Honestly, 52 would be more convenient, but you can make 36 work in combination with a circular or track saw for the few times you might need a bigger cut (or just do it backward and cut the smaller amount off to get the bigger size you need, which is what I usually do). That 52 inch fence and extension is pretty darn big, but if you have the space and budget for it, why not? Then you have to decide what extras you want with it. I highly recommend the ICS base. I have a relatively small shop and need to move it around frequently. More than I thought I would, actually. I couldn't live without that base. I'll be getting the router table insert at some point myself, because i often find myself in situations where using that saw fence at a greater distance than a normal router table can provide to be necessary. It's highly customizable, so lots of decisions to make. Hope that helps.

I have a Dewalt 735X, but I can't send these crosses or even the pieces through that, and a planer is not a substitute for sanding unfortunately. Two different processes with two different purposes requiring different tools. It's definitely better than a sander for surfacing larger pieces of rough lumber though.

That changes with the price of materials, but currently I'm getting 45 and 65.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking I am in NY...on Long Island. I get tons of 5/4 by 42" and 12'ers x 3 3/4...... anyone needs any , lmk. You do GREAT WORK.

Thanks a lot, Kurt, I really appreciate it.

The short pieces on the smaller crosses are all 1.5" x 3", and the 2 long pieces are 1.5" X 11". The short pieces on the larger crosses are 2.5" x 5", and the 2 long pieces are 2.5" x 18.5". The prices vary with material costs, but currently I'm selling them for $45 and $65. Thanks for subscribing!

@@maverickdesignswoodworking thank you!

@@maverickdesignswoodworking one more question, what size stars do you use for the different crosses?

@@mrmyblessednest1722 Those are 2" stars. You can get them from the same link in the description below the video as the 1" stars--there are multiple size selections on that link, just select 2" instead of 1".

@@maverickdesignswoodworking awesome thank you!

The small ones sell the most by a wide margin. The majority of people want the cheapest things they can get. The prices will depend on your market, material costs, time to build, what you paid to get into the show, etc. I usually sell them for 45 and 65, but I've never paid more than $100 to get into a show either. Prices would go up if I did.

It kind of depends on the situation, like if I paid for a seller spot and how much, the price of lumber, how likely people are to spend (a couple years ago was a high point, but right now not so much, for example). My usual price for these is 45 and 65, and I adjust from there, as necessary.

That's a tough one. It really depends on what you mean by outdoor. Lacquer would still be fine, I think, if it's under a covered patio or someplace it won't be exposed to a lot of direct sunlight or weather exposure. If you're talking wide out in the open, honestly, paint rather than stain is probably your best option. I don't do much outdoor stuff like that, so my experience is limited with those finishes, but from various groups and forums I am associated with, I've heard spar urethane, marine spar varnish, and epoxy talked about a lot. I would assume that epoxy would last the longest, but the others would do well, I assume, if you refresh the finish periodically. If you live in a desert like I do and plan to have it in the sun all day every day, or in a place where it will consistently be rained and snowed on, I'm guessing there isn't much besides paint or epoxy that will last more than a year or so. Wish I could be more help.

I would also recommend titebond 3 for outdoor use, as it's more water resistant than 2, but it might be a little more challenging to assemble since 3 is more watery and takes more time to set up.

Thanks for your reply it's a great help thank you . Much appreciated . Have summer trailer place in PA that does flea markets am thinking of trying crosses to sell there maybe I just do indoor use for sale and test out some outdoor finishes for my self see how it works out . Again THANKS MUCH APPRECIATED

I don't chamfer them because the pieces are so small. I just sand them flat. If you're comfortable getting your fingers that close to a router bit, or if you're doing it on a table with a small parts holder or something, you can, but I don't.

I always make them 1 inch shorter than the cross, so they're 1/2 inch in on each end. So, if the cross is 27.5 for the bigger ones, the support would be 26.5, and if the cross is 16.5 for the smaller ones, it would be 15.5. Same for the small supports (2 for the small, 4 for the big).

I think you found this answer already, but in case you didn't: The short pieces are 2.5 x 5 inches, and the long ones are 2.5 x 18.5 inches. Basically 2x3s, or something bigger ripped to 2.5 and cut to length.

Currently $45

Right now I'm getting 45 and 65.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking thanks

18 gauge 1-1/4 inch brad nails

I sell them for 40 to 45 depending on the venue, but mostly 45.

45

45 lately.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thanks, where are you located?

@@billlowery1962 Apple Valley in Southern California, in the high desert northeast of LA

Hi Mike. Price will depend on your material costs, time, local market, etc. I can batch them out pretty efficiently now, because I've made hundreds of them at this point, but currently I'm selling them for 45 and 65.

Thank you. As I am getting older this am hoping to supplement my income. I spent my whole life looking for a hobby. I finally found something I love,and I plan on doings as much as possible. Might as well make some money. Or at least enough to pay for supplies.

@Mike Matthews I'm right there with you buddy! I don't know how obvious it is from the videos, but I'm 50, and I wish I would have found woodworking 20 years earlier than I did.

The short pieces are 2.5 x 5 inches, and the long ones are 2.5 x 18.5 inches. Basically 2x3s, or something bigger ripped to 2.5 and cut to length.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking ..thank u!!

Size of supports please

@@scottglesmer137 I always make them 1 inch shorter than the cross, so they're 1/2 inch in on each end. So, if the cross is 27.5 for the bigger ones, the support would be 26.5, and if the cross is 16.5 for the smaller ones, it would be 15.5. Same for the small supports (2 for the small, 4 for the big).

All thin line flags are. The one you see at the beginning of the video is a thin blue line flag.

Hi Tim. I am very familiar with the flag code. What a lot of people don't understand about it is that, while it is federal law, it is also intended as a set of guidelines that specifically uses non-binding language like "should" and "custom," as opposed to "shall," which, if you've been in the military you will be very familiar with that distinction in language. As such, non-adherence does not equate to being illegal-- there is no penalty associated with violating any of its provisions, which is why nothing is done when people stand on, burn, or otherwise deface the flag, which we saw a lot of occurring during the riots last year. I personally do not agree or in any way condone such things, and would physically stop them from happening if I were present, but from a legal standpoint I would be in the wrong and would fully accept the consequences of that. Additionally, the flag code pertains specifically to actual US flags, intended to be flown as such, as opposed to likenesses with similar colors and patterns. If that were the case, anything with a red, white, and blue motif would apply, like the Remax logo, for example. The only provision the code makes that might be interpreted otherwise is in regards to items that are intended for temporary use or to be discarded, such as toilet paper. On their website, the American Legion specifically adresses this issue in regards to clothing, saying anyone expressing patriotism through an article of clothing that happens to be red, white, and blue, with stars and stripes, is not at all illegal or disrespectful as long as it is not made from an actual US flag. As a combat veteran that has been in, and associated with, the military professionally for over 3 decades, even the military has no issue with servicemembers wearing or displaying patriotic materials outside of uniform. All that being said, I can assure you that I am not violating any of these provisions with the things I make. No actual flag was mishandled, cut up, or otherwise used in the production of these crosses, which are not intended to be either temporary nor discarded. The union is properly oriented per the code, and the proportions of the likeness are even correct. I hope that clears up any confusion you might have had, and thanks for watching.

Get a goldfish

I hope it doesn't apply to Texas state flags as well. Yikes.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking gr

@@maverickdesignswoodworking great responce,,,glad we both know this

No., that's a common misconception by those that don't fully understand the flag code. I covered it in detail in my response to Tim Hyatt below.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking The code definitely mentions not mixing the the flag with other insignia or symbols.

Yes, I realize that. I just started this, and like everyone else my first ones are going to be part of the learning curve. Sorry you didn't have a great experience, but I hope you got something out of it. They will get better as I go and figure this all out. I've never edited anything in my life before starting this channel, have made a lot of progress, and will continue to get better with each one.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking I liked it anyways.

@@sean8628 Thanks. I really do appreciate the constructive criticism. It helps me to improve.

I disagree Sean... Edit 50% out and then he's going to have more questions than ever in the comment section. But then again, this is coming from someone with OCD lol. Either way much respect.

Thank you. Yeah, I realize it's pretty long and I struggled with that when editing. The majority of the feedback has been very positive though, with most happy to have the extra details. It's impossible to please everyone, but I'm still pretty new at this and will improve as time goes on. Thanks for the feedback.

I agree that this is a real nice project, the length of the video is too long for such a simple project. Please find ways to condense your how to, perhaps script them so things don't get repeated. As you go forward the time stamp in your head will become more focused. A lot of KZfaqrs also add a cutlist in their videos or add it to the tagged comment. Hope you don't mind my constructive thoughts.

Sorry it didn't meet your expectations, but I will get better with each video. Thanks for watching anyway.

Thank you for being so detailed oriented, it might be boring to some people but I love that you explain the how and the why. I personally operate this way, my wife hates it!!

@@jonathansandoval4552 Lol, yeah, I got some complaints about it early on, but the vast majority of feedback has been positive. Still, I've made adjustments on newer videos and will continue to do so as I learn and get better at making and editing them. Thanks for the support!

If you felt like it was boring... NO ONE stapled your eyes open and made you watch it. I LOVED IT... and from the comments it seems like everyone else did too. If you thought it was boring then keep scrolling. There was no need for you to show your immaturity and make a rude comment. How many KZfaq educational videos have you made??? !!!