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So glad! :)

So glad to have helped! I started the same way, when I was younger I wanted a chainmail vest and happened to come across a very helpful community that got me started. Good luck with your project :)

No problem! Thanks for watching.

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No problem!

Rusting depends entirely on the composition of the rings. Carbon steel rings will rust (because iron rusts). You must care for carbon steel to prevent rusting. Stainless steel (with chromium) and galvanized steel (zinc coated) were invented to decrease the chance of steel rusting. Aluminum rings will not rust (because aluminum does not rust). Aluminum oxidizes the outer layer, and then halts. Working with aluminum rings, you will get aluminum dust all over your hands. It will rub off if placed directly on the skin, leaving your skin grey where the chainmail was. Anodized aluminum rings are pretty colors...and will also not rust. But being anodized, they are much less likely to leave that dust behind, and so are 'cleaner' to work with. Hope that helps!

Thanks!

I allso would like to know the mm if you could help me there 🙂

Michael Dorsey I’m having the same problem, I’ll be doing it all correctly and then randomly one middle chain won’t be correct but it doesn’t make sense because it was correct before so they are somehow twisting weird

I'm also having this problem, did you figure it out ?

Nope. :( Ben??

I'd have to see it to sort it, personally. Never heard of this. I'd expect to find a link not woven in right. You may be able to escape that by doing all your work flat on the table, sliding the links you're weaving up to the edge you're working on. Picking your piece up to get the link in lets links at the edges flop around unstably.

Yes, there is. With your pliers jaws holding the link at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and the cut at 12 o'clock position, twist the cut's ends together so they grind. Then twist a little more and twist them back so they grind again. You can push the cut ends together as you grind to help this. Eliminates that gapping; always work it by twisting those pliers. The manner of the cut affects this also. With the typical wire cutter >< sort of cut, nudge things so they don't butt point to point like >

And yes there is for zipping e ntire rows together. Joining two ribbons together with just a single row of links being the zipper requires the ribbon edges you wish to join to show the same slant, or link-lie... all links, both sides, leaning the same direction. The links you use to join them have the opposite slant, or link-lie. Connects nicely. This is what he's doing with two ribbons in the last minutes of the video.

If you check out lindybeige here on youtube he has a tutorial on that :)

Thanks Cindy! I just had a closer look and realized the keychain is in fact made from 2 sizes of rings, bright aluminum 1/4" 18 gauge and green neoprene (rubber) rings 5/16" and 17ish gauge

Thanks so much, Tim. I appreciate the reply. I hope you come back with more new designs soon.

neoprene rubber rings ,,,,whats that???

Hello! Tim used some neoprene rings in the video when he made the bracelet. Here is the web site he suggested to buy rings: metaldesignz.com They sell the neoprene rings and lots of other jump rings. Neoprene rings are used if you want to give your jewelry a different look, and they also stretch, so if you want to make a bracelet without a clasp, a stretch bracelet is a good option so it fits over the wrist.

@@daylightliving8929 I hope you've found out they are O-rings in the intervening years.

Either try the ring lord, or other

Pretty much. You can build rows in the direction he shows, or perpendicular to that. I like to cast links on two at a time, filling 2 linkrows at once. I wouldn't keep picking your mail-unit up. I leave it on my worksurface and slide links up to the edge and close 'em. This way the links at the edges of the mailpatch don't get flopped over.

Take advantage of this with a different chain of alternating double and single links: 2, 1, 2, 1 for as long as you want. Lay the chain on your table, and smooth it down flat so THE DOUBLED RINGS LEAN ONE WAY AND THE SINGLE RI GS THE OPPOSITE WAY. Then you can add on links to whichever edge is convenient. Slide 'em across the table to the edge, weave them in without picking the mail up, and close.

Omair Trraisi .

hey no problem... they're from metaldesignz.com

Tim Shaw thanks for reply

Toggle fastener.

Both have different properties depending on what you're looking for, aluminum is obviously lighter which is nicer sometimes, but alternately the heft of a steel sheet of maille is extremely satisfying. Steel (especially stainless) is harder than aluminium and larger gauges can be challenging to work with as a result of that. IE 14 gauge steel takes quite a bit of force to open and close, whereas aluminum is a bit easier.

thanks! ive bought aluminum rings from work.. theyre not as strong as I liked them to be

Steel wire, then. And big enough slipjoint pliers; you'll need the leverage.

you can make them youself by buying a spool of wire. I just wrap the whole thing around a wooden dowl of my preferred size and then slide the wire off, cut the loops into rings and then do as the tutorial says

Use a steel rod, though. Get it from a hardware store; ask for round stock/rod stock.

I know how to make it. But it remain to sharp at the adges. I want something with no sharp adges.

Hardware store for ordinary wires like galvanized or black annealed tie wire. Marine supplies places for stainless wire to make your fantasy Dwarf-mail, which per Tolkien's canon, "rusts not."

...and thirty thousand to cover 'em.

He used metal rings all the way up until the end. Them he used rubber O rings. I wanted to see how he attached those though :l

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