Me too! I have a few videos that only need editing, but our first child was born a month or so after the last video and it turns out I don't have so much free time right now. Somewhat ironically the video I didn't quite finish before the birth was a channel update explaining that the channel would be on pause for a bit because... I definitely plan to keep doing videos, don't worry - there's just been a lot of personal-life stuff in the way for the last nine months.

@@DiningTablePrintPlay congratulations, very glad to hear that you are doing well! Patiently waiting for more 😊

@@DiningTablePrintPlay do you need an editor?

Thank you.

Thank god for you lol

You mean thanks!

I'm glad to hear it worked out for you! The blue paper I used is a wrapping paper for gifts - you have to get the 'luxury', 'deluxe' or 'premium' stuff for boxes you're going to keep, in my experience, regular wrapping paper tears too easily. Kraft paper is a great choice, as that's really strong compared to other papers of a similar thickness, and that comes in a variety of colours - but often kraft paper has a texture, so if you want a really smooth finish you have to be careful which product you buy. The approach used to decorate the first box in the video will also work for the other two boxes - so long as you have label paper that's at least as large as one side, and preferably the top and bottom faces of the box. You can use multiple labels on a side as well, of course, if you're really careful to line the edges up against each other so there's no gap.

It's certainly possible to score and fold 2mm greyboard, but you have to be careful! Unlike paperfolding techniques, 'score' here is used in the sense of making a light relief cut into the face of the board which will be the 'outside' of the corner, so that when you fold along the line you're opening the cut up so you have to actually fold less thickness. If you cut too far the joint will snap when you fold it; if you don't cut far enough it won't fold cleanly and... also may snap, but for different reasons. You want to get about halfway through, and make sure that you're ready to proceed with everything else when you make the fold because the fibres will tear a bit and shift along the fold line and you should try and avoid flattening it out again once folded. You may find the corner then benefits from a bit of burnishing with the side of a metal rod (e.g. a screwdriver or the shaft of a pen) to smooth down any fibres that might be sticking up before gluing a wrap over the top. I suspect this is probably how sturdier game boxes are made underneath the wrap - with thicker boxes you'll often see what looks like a 45-degree bevel on the top edges of the box lid, which is what you end up with if you score and fold.

The one I use is readily available in the US: www.amazon.com/Alvin-RB316-Rabbet-Board-Cutter/dp/B001DKMX1K but seems to vary wildy in price in the UK. It's listed but not available on Amazon, where it sometimes has a good price: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001DKMX1K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it has an inflated price on eBay: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rabbet-Foam-Board-Cutter/222433301000?hash=item33ca0ed208:g:Rr8AAOSwXYtYv~Vx and some sellers are listing it for - seriously - over a hundred pounds. If you are in the UK (just taking a guess from the football shirt and the spelling of "rebate"!) then probably your best bet right now is one of the Logan Foamwerks ones - higher prices than I got my Alvin one for, but readily available and they're supposedly pretty good quality: www.jacksonsart.com/wc4010-foamwerks-foamboard-rabett-cutter?channable=e17573.NzI1NTg&___store=jacksonsart_en&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyvXPBRD-ARIsAIeQeoE5_ktzrKjw6FoOOjNZuKecYUoNBgXu-q7eWa0eq9Qd2ic0NXCAdakaAtWNEALw_wcB www.amazon.co.uk/SG-Education-FW-WC-4010-Foamwerks/dp/B0722X1LCL/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509794540&sr=8-2&keywords=foam+rabbet+cutter The same items are often available at fairly different prices from different sellers at different times, so if you're not looking for something for immediate use, it might be worth watching the prices for a bit to see if they dip.

Dining Table Print & Play yeah, good guess!! 😀 Thanks for this info, really appreciated.

Btw this video is so informative I have learned a lot. Thanks for sharing your content.

"Best" is always going to be a subjective trade-off between how much money you're willing to spend versus how much work you want to do yourself versus how high-quality you want the end-result to be. For me, the answer is to use an online poster-printing service to print the graphics on a huge sheet of paper. I often do this for boards, but generally don't bother for game boxes.

Logan also sells one in their "Foamwerks" range, which is more readily available. For example, here in the UK: www.graphicsdirect.co.uk/products/foamwerks-rabbet-cutter?gclid=CjwKCAjwm7mEBhBsEiwA_of-TOLwiVZnORKfEqs5se_TNomRsrXBTEq3O947ai9XgCWdltAm2lrJmRoC1tEQAvD_BwE

If you're talking about making a box out of wrapped cardboard, I would suggest a) always measure the actual outside of your actual made-up box bottom before you decide on the measurement for the lid, because it's not necessarily the case that it's going to be what you expect, and b) add around a millimetre of extra width and length (which is what I did but didn't explain clearly in the video). Much more than that and you'll get a loose lid that falls off too easily; much less than that and it'll be too tight to get off again later. An inch is defined as 25.4mm, so a millimetre is 1/25.4th of an inch, or 0.0394 - pretty much 39mil. Might as well call it 40 if that's easier to measure.

@@DiningTablePrintPlay Great. Thanks for the reply. Just working on the bottom box...

It's gummed paper tape - it comes 'dry' on the roll and you have to moisten it to get it to stick, like old-school stamps. Once it's stuck it holds like anything, it's tough enough to take some flexing without trouble, and unlike cellulose tapes (Sellotape, 3M Scotch, etc.) it doesn't break down and get brittle over time. Here in the UK it's often called "Butterfly Tape" after the most well-known manufacturer - it's actually intended for running around the back of picture frames to seal them and prevent insects getting inside, so you often find it in framing or art supply shops.

It's a "foamcore rabbet cutter" by a company called "Alvin", but unfortunately it seems to have gone out of production since I made this video. I bought mine from this Amazon listing: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001DKMX1K/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1 However, that's now unavailable. Logan Foamwerks products are pretty good, though, so while it's a bit more expensive this product will almost certainly do the same thing just as well: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001JSWKLO/ref=dp_prsubs_1

I got mine from Amazon, several years ago - this is the listing: www.amazon.co.uk/Alvin-Rabbet-Cutter-Foam-Board/dp/B001DKMX1K I believe the company that makes it is called "Alvin" - you might be able to find it in other shops, and it's definitely available directly from the US. It's worth looking around at graphic-design and picture-framing places in particular. Also Logan sells a similar-but-not-quite-so-compact tool in their "Foamwerks" range; I've not used it specifically, but I've used other Logan stuff and it's been pretty good, I expect it's perfectly fine.

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping to try and get that Alvin one because it's low profile and it might be cheaper then the foamwerks one, which goes for £20 plus. Anyway I loved the video and hope to build some custom inserts for my space crusade in the near future.

Jeffery Hogan In British English, "rebate" means "to reduce" or "cut back", so what you call a "rabbet" is also a "rebate" here, because the material has been reduced. IIRC it comes from the old (probably Norman) French for "to push down" or something similar. We tend to see "discount" more than "rebate" for price cuts, though; for whatever reason a "rebate" on a price generally means you pay the full price then send off a form and the seller or manufacturer gives you some money back.

Unfortunately the name it's sold under depends a lot on where you live! Strictly, the stuff I'm using is a relatively cheap "unbleached paperboard", generally made mostly from recycled paper pulp. In the US, and probably therefore in Canada and anywhere culturally similar to the US, it's called 'chipboard', which is used as a generic term for 'normal' paperboard. Here in the UK and I believe in Aus/NZ (and possibly therefore other British Commonwealth countries), it's called 'greyboard'. It's usually measured in hundreds of microns, millimetres, or (in the US) small fractions of an inch rather than by weight like most thinner papers. You can also use things like mounting board/mat board (the stuff used to make passe-partouts for framed pictures), which is often more readily available but also a bit more expensive since it has a finished face; binding/book board is good for boxes if you find that instead; and if you're making smaller boxes then you sometimes find a product sold as 'magazine board' or 'comics board' which is an acid-free version of greyboard (again, sometimes with a facing) intended for stiffening magazines/comics stored in mylar bags by collectors, and that works pretty well too. The specific product isn't that important so long as all the bits that need to stick to it can do! Online you'll need to search for some of those terms, but realistically if you can get to a bigger stationers, an art supply shop, or a framing or binding supply shop, you'll almost certainly be able to pull something out a rack which will do. Ultimately a box just needs a rigid board that takes whatever glue and/or tape you're using and has a thickness you're happy with - everything else is just availability and economy.

@@JakeStaines Thanks for your reply. Really appreciate it. Will look up these options.

It's "greyboard" - which is the kind of board used for bookbinding, boxmaking, etc. ... or the bottom of pads of paper. It's a fairly basic paperboard with no fancy facing or coating. If you have a local printer or binder, they often sell greyboard offcuts and/or pallet ends cheap. Otherwise you can find it at better stationers, and a lot of stationery supply places online.

Dining Table Print & Play Thanks

The channel isn't dead as such - and it's never had a regular schedule - but it's certainly on a bit of a break. We had our first child a couple of years back and it's much harder to cordon off the dining room and shoot a video when he's about... and he certainly takes priority! I still have some plans for videos to make, but it's slow going and between that and the added stresses of working at home through a pandemic with a government that's gone right off the deep end, it's hard to find time to sit down and plan or edit videos... For that kind of size box, I guess you have two main choices. One is to make a big telescoping box - like the third option in this video - in which case I'd suggest measuring and cutting the board directly rather than trying to make a template anyway, then measure the actual measurements of the outside faces of your box to make a printed wrap (with an appropriate overlap) if that's what you're after. The other is to take a big big of card similar to cereal-box card and make a deckbox-style box. You'll find it's harder to open the flap without creasing it when it's that large, but it's certainly possible. There's various tuckbox template generators around, and once you've got your giant PDF template that absolutely won't fit on an A4 page, open it in something like Inkscape, and add a grid of light diagonal lines over the entire thing, like a tessellated diamond pattern. Then print it out split over however many pages you need, and you'll find the combination of the vertical and horizontal lines of the template and the diagonal lines makes it much easier to align the various A4 sheets together to make one big template. If you want to print a nice outer design on your template as you go, then just keep the diagonal lattice to the space outside the template, the bits you're going to cut away - so long as you have one line in each direction at each edge of the page you need to align, it'll help a lot. Good luck!

Would be more practical if used inches instead of silly units!

@@twitch1965 10mm=1cm:100cm=1m:1000m=1km 12inch=1foot:5280 feet=1mile I wonder which one is sillier obnoxious american