I think I send my TV back as watching you make there flute,and of course the rest of you tips . It's more entertaining than TV. Thanks Charlie .

When you explain how to craft something (like a flute) you cannot talk too much. Every detail is important. You explain very well and hopefully I can make my own flute.

Good man, respect

I waited 3 hours to give the rest of the class an opportunity to answer the "other name" question regarding the router bit. The 2 other less frequently used names for it are a cove bit, and a roundnose bit. I will sit quietly back down in my seat now, 😆.

I like watching Charlie because he always give good tips and tricks

It was great to see the REAL shop manager!!!

Well done Charlie always enjoy listening to you your philosophy and I love watching you make your fleets

A true work of art, thankyou for sharing your knowledge 🍃

Charlie your craftsmanship is excellent. We could've used you back when we built those pyramids.

For the question on using exotic woods, I am from Costa Rica, and there are a lot of people that like to take Coffee wood and use it to make whatever product. I personally see no issue in it, as we have a massive abundance of the wood because of how many farms there are. Even though the wood is leaving Costa Rican hands so that other people can sell it as a novelty, it richens our farmers and the people putting in the hard work of making both the coffee and caring for the plants.

Wow that Flute 🪈 very good all the notes are very smooth thanks for sharing your knowledge with me.

Beautiful sounds, nice craftsmanship 👍👍🙏

Dude, thanks so much for all your show how!!! I'm about to dive right into Native American flute crafting!! I have 25 years experience in residential building and remodeling, all the tools, and access to some nice bamboo and red cedar as well, so I'm psyched to get started, and I super appreciate you Brother!! When you were talking about safety in this video pertaining to your router channelling cuts, I wanted to mention a few things that would keep one much safer when making these cuts with a cove bit as I have used the same setup and I know a board can run away from you and take your hand with it in lightening speed regardless of what kind of grip you think you have on it! If you start with a square plow bit 1/2 the width of your cove bit @ 1/3 the desired depth, removing that mass and then step your cove bit in to your square channel in incraments of 1/3rds to your desired depth, removing much less material per pass with far greater control, it'll relieve the buttcheek clinching and save your fingertips & livelyhood. There is also a type anti-kickback guard that you can purchase or make yourself, which with you can use push-sticks and assure absolute safety. I'll try to describe it as best I can because it's simple to make. This type of guide is a second fence that mounts adjustably with bolts/tracks/wingnuts like your standard fence probably does; opposite side of your existing main fence against the otherwise handled edge of your board. From a directly above viewpoint looking down at your router tabletop: it is a (guesstimate) ⁵/4" or 1”× 5"×9" parallelogram shaped block with a 2.5" forked (or toothed) side angled aprox. 12° from 90° in the feed direction. If you can picture this, it literally locks your workpiece in one direction against your fence permitting ZERO mistakes in your cut and fingertips! It's a win win! If you decide to make your own using wood, be absolute certain to use straight grain aligned with your 12° to the teething, or no less than 7 ply -¾" zero void finish plywood for this jig. And so I write all this because safety means.... NO ACCIDENTS! And we craftsmen really do need our fingertips! WhirrrrrrrrzzzzzzzzzzRRRNNT! EEYOWWWWCH!!!! May we all know Christ, Peace for all nations, and many more creations. Best reguards -Jake

I opted to use 2 inch squeezy clamps made by Anvil that I get at home depot for $0.99. They might wear you out if you're squeezing them on and off all day but very affordable.

Oh siso Brother ..Beautiful work big bro love the sound ..respect

Love your videos. I've learned so much from you

Your workshop must smell amazing.

Charlie you are a truly remarkable person to share this information with the world. When I started making these for myself I hacked so much wood just to find the length and tuning and all with hand chisels and sand paper. It was crushing to fail again and again with no hope of finding a teacher to show me, or the funds to purchase a flute already made for they were rare. I swore to the creator that if it gave me this one gift of the flute I would share my knowledge, for I had never asked anything of him before and it was the voice I needed so I could pray from my heart and not with my mouth. Three weeks later, a book fell off a shelf while I was reaching for some leather supplies in a store, and there was a single page by Ben E Hunt drawn when he was a child of the basic measurements and details. I went home and broke my coffee table for the wood and built my first successful flute. I cried and cried with joy hearing it for the first time. You are like this book for so many by sharing your knowledge, and by the way I also purchased yours. Thank you brother!

The other bit name is a bull nose. Love your video and your work is amazing I will be making one soon. Keep up the good work and disregard the haters have a bless day.

This was very interestng to watch. Thanks for sharing.

Keep your eyes open for people doing renovations. Old door frames are an excellent source of mahogany

Hey brother, I know you from powwow’s around Marshall county & I accidentally found your KZfaq channel & subscribed & told several people to watch & subscribe. Awesome brother. Thanks, Robert Caswell

Awesome video Charlie. I appreciate what you do.

Wow love that sound

Thanks for an nice video as always Charlie !!! My single low E and D has an 30mm bore and the C and B has 35mm bore and my low A has 40mm bore and the G and F# has 45mm bores. My low D and C drone has 35mm bores, special order for me since a bit bigger bore makes fuller sound and a bit shorter flute, also ordered them unfinished, and i used Danish Oil to finish them. I bought one low D a long time ago on the net that only had 1 inch bore and it did not had that full sound. My midrange flutes has the standard bore size except for some specials A, G and F# that have 1 inch bore. Just wanted to share. My next wish in my dreams would be to get an mid drone F# with 1 inch bore :)

I've worked with cedar since I got out of high school in a shake and shingle mill. We cut old growth cedar. The only cedar we were ever allowed to harvest was dead and down though. Through log salvage. I prefer local wood. Red cedar, yellow cedar or I think it's also known as Cypress. Lots of maple here too.

Love your work!!! You are an angel!!! Are you guys on tik tok??

Very good sound. Thank you for your time

Super! Thanks!

This was fantastic, thanks

Charlie, I really really enjoy your videos and I have to admit I don't watch enough of them because I'm usually busy making flutes. Your videos are so packed with useful information that I help me when I run into a flute making issue or challenge. Interesting that you say the 3/4 core box bit will catch or pull less than the larger diameter bits. When I began making flutes I was using a 3/4 core box bit to create a 7/8, 1 inch wide air chamber/bore and I had the the flute blank yanked from my hands too many times to count. I had too many flutes ruined from using the 3/4 bit to create the wider bores that I invested in 7/8", 1", 1 1/8" core box bits. I haven't had any issues with the larger bits catching and yanking the flute half out of hands. I figure it this way, I would rather spend the extra time ordering the larger diameter bits than having to go to the E.R. because of potential injuries from using the 3/4 inch bit.

Amazing Big like

The dome shaped router bit is called a cove bit.

Love it!

muito bom amigo. obrigado. sucesso.

Hey Charlie. I love the Red Cedar that you have. The only really red wood we have is so hard it would take a week to even make one pass over with the router (a slight embellishment there). Red Gum is fantastic to look at but is too hard and our Red Cedar is not as colourful as the variety you have. (Australian Red Gum). Yes I was watching the way you used your router in your router table and thinking that could hurt. I have taken the end off my right thumb with a bench plain and some other things that should not be removed and am a bit more careful now. 🥴 Thanks.

Nice flute charlie

Its awesome that you're putting out legitimate tutorials on how to make flutes, I never played one and I'm planning to make one but I don't have a router, would chiseling and a dremel suffice? And the bent square tipped rods you use to burn holes, how could I make one? (As in would an easy to bend metal suffice and are there specific measurements for the the tip? I hope and suppose not :D) (I'm watching the Tools of the Trade playlist now but asked in advance, sorry if all these were already explained somewhen)

Hey Charlie! I'm super excited you made this video as this was the exact type of flute I've been wanting to make. I had a question about the wood and how you manage to flatten out the sides. Do you use a jointer+planer, store at same humidity as manufactuer, or do you have some other method of keeping the wood flat? Thanks

Cove bit

Man i love the look of red cedar. What model Ryobi belt sander are you using?

Thank you for continuing these great videos. One question - I watched some of your older videos and I noticed you didn't mention how deep to make the flues on the outer body of the flute in this one (hope my terminology is right.... the shallow rectangular channel underneath the block.) Any measurements you recommend for that?

Quick question to deduce safer options for tools instead of using a router table: would a bowl making knife or bowl gouge chisel work for making the cavities inside the low drone D flute? If so, what brands of chisel and bowl knife would you recommend?

Cove bit i think. but being 5 months im likely late.

Would like to know how to tune a triple drone flute to be #F#F and B

Hey thanks for the video! Do you notice a difference in the sound if you use, say black walnut to cedar? or is it advised to use lighter woods, is it for the sound or the weight in the end?

I've just bought a bamboo flute f# from a maker .. but I'm not even sure it's right... It has 5 holes , but uncovering the first two holes while playing sounds awful.. just a whistling noise... How do I know if it's not made right or just my playing 🤔😳😂... Been enjoying your videos..thankyou

Hello, Charlie! I've played the bagpipes for the last 30+ years, but I'm afraid I've been bitten by the NA flute bug now... Bagpipe drones are not made in halves and are usually made to be as polished as possibe on the inside. I'm just wondering if the wood glue on the inside of the sound box will affect the tone if it is not cleaned out or at least smoothed a bit. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. Keep up the great videos!

bullnose router bit?

Those are more commonly known as a ball and meal or a ball nose Mill

Hey, shouldn't that kitty be wearing protective eyewear during the sanding process! You never know when a speck of sawdust could fly into its eye! 😛

Thanks for the video. I have a flute that won't allow the top hole "pop" embellishment during the melody. The flute jumps into higher harmonics. All holes are properly covered etc. How can I make a flute that allows for the pop between melody notes? Example at 1:20 on this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g62inruqzb2Xoqc.html

Bullnose bit