I'll look into it, Pat.

@@SharpToolsUSA Jeff, it's been a year, any update on this?

Sorry I didn't address that, because the answer is really cool. Take a look at the original product video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mMxle5Z509G9ep8.html ...specifically, at the 1:22 mark you'll see the ruler that stores in the Exact Width Dado Jig. It works for setting the stops for blind dadoes, and also comes out to set the depth of cut. It compensates for the thickness of the jig and has the zero point set for the top of the material.

@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank you!

Not sure what I used in the video, but I am sure what I would use today. Woodpeckers is now making solid carbide spiral router bits, and we make two that are a perfect match for the Exact Width Dado Jig. US4900U and US4900D are 3/8" diameter solid carbide spiral router bits with 1/2" shank. The "U" and "D" represent up-cut and down-cut. For solid stock, the up-cut is generally preferred. In plywood or solid stock species that tend to chip, the down-cut is the better choice. You can find them here: www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-solid-carbide-spiral-router-bits.html

That is correct. You have stops at both ends that can be positioned for stopped ends.

You certainly can. It has built-in stops on both ends so you can control exactly where you start and stop.

@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for the prompt response. That sets it apart from the competition. Just ordered mine!

My old OF-1000 pre-dates the Plug-It connector. In Europe they sell this pigtail that replaces the cord and allows you to adapt old Festools to the Plug-It cords. An acquaintance on a Festool forum ordered several from a German retailer and we divvied them up. I got one for my OF-1000 and my even older track saw (AF-65).

With the guide bushing provided with the jig, you have to use a 3/8" bit for the jig to work correctly.

That's why you cut away the white plastic with the actual bit, and then use that plastic to line up.

What Pete said. 8^)

I made my own jigs years ago and it works by the base of the router riding along each fence instead of a guide bush against a splinter guard. I made one set up with a 3/16" bit and another using a 1/4". The smallest dado is 3/16" and 1/4" with the other, you can use any size bit, just remember the smallest width dado is whatever size your using. One side is adjustable like Woodpeckers. It works identical to woodpeckers except the width is set by the bit directly. The smaller of the two bits I don't cut that deep per pass, fear of snapping the bit. With a 3/32 bit I guess it could work with shallow cuts just be careful. If you decide to make your own jig use 6mm or 1/4" plywood (or 12mm, 1/4") like Baltic Birch or something comparable for the base the router rides on each side and 18mm or 3/4 for the fence on each side. Screw from the bottom through the 1/4" into the 3/4". Add plywood straps that are slotted, at each end with adjusting knobs to the fence section for adjustable widths, and your all set to go. Hope you understand what I'm trying to say. This is a long winded explanation I know. Hope this helps.

@@nowhereman112244 Thank you. It does help. I'm sure this is the way to go. I'm using double-sided tempered masonite which is an oddball thickness considerably less than 1/8". The 3/32" bit came from an industrial aviation supplier.

No dust system will work perfect because the router plate is not directly in contact with the surface

On, but I had been sanding with it and had the speed turned all the way down and forgot to turn it back up.

@@WoodpeckersLLC Its all good. I just bought the longer version of this jig. Thanks for making the video

Just make on yourself. It's not that hard and there's lots off different designs to