Olsen makes a conversion kit that you can attach to your saw. This way you can use straight, spiral, pin, or no pin.

Where to start the cut: Usually the drill hole to start the cut is slightly bigger than your blade. So making the drill hole in a corner if there’s one tends to hide it. Direction of angled cut: Once you get your blade at an angle to the piece of wood, you need to undercut in the direction you want the wood to fall. To see it for yourself drill a couple of oversized 1/8 inch holes in a quarter inch piece of wood. Angle your blade and cut one clockwise and the other one counterclockwise. One will fall down into the wood while the other one will rise up.

didn't know about the cooling effect!! thanks

The aluminum tube (could be a bendie straw ) is to blow the dust AWAY from me. Before I put them on, my chest and lap would be covered in dust. I have a strong small fan mounted on my ceiling that I aim at my lathe when I turn(and when I use my scroll saw. I roll my lathe to just outside my garage door and the fan wind blows dust and some turnings out.

@@richardkinney1 thank you very much.

and thank you for taking the time to answer...much appreciated.

Hardware stores carry Scrollsaws, from $150 up. A pegas 21 is my recommendation if you have $900 to spend.

ferreterías y amazon.com

I will glue them in with super glue, or epoxy or white/yellow glue depending on how fast I need it finished. Sometimes I’ll tack it in with super glue then brush on the varnish to add more strength.

@@richardkinney1 I figured you MUST be gluing them somehow. :) Thanks!

Skil 16 inch on the rough (pinned) cut and Dremel 18inch on the fine. Now I use an Excalibur 21 with Pegas blade holder installed.

Sometimes a tooth pic (or whittled piece of wood) or I make a putty from the woods sawdust mixed with glue. Sometimes the hole can be placed so it’s not too noticeable. If you can use a real small blade the hole can be real small.