Fantastic. Have fun!

Have at it! Best to you. :O)

I had a request and thought, what the heck. I'm on here to share.

Wonderful. I subbed you back. So refreshing when folks come here with a channel of their own and do not say, "Come check out my channel!" I already look to see if it interests me. I'd love to see you share that tomato stuff some day. Breeding interests me a bunch. All the best.

Glad you liked it!

You are so welcome!

Thanks! Yes, love breeding vegetables. I've got 4 tomato varieties, 2 peppers, 1 squash, and 1 eggplant so far with many more I'm working on. I do enjoy it.

Careful, it can get addictive! This all started with me growing tons of heirlooms and now look at me!

Awesome. I hope it helps. :O)

You bet. :O)

You're the reason I made it! I hope it is helpful.

Thanks for requesting it Dana. I have been waiting for a video like this forever!!!

Glad it was helpful!

I'm glad. Your welcome.

You bet!

Thanks. Best to you and make your own variety! :O)

Glad to have you here. If you go back, you'll find how ignorant and, often silly I was, so be prepared! Well, I still am. Remember, you signed on for it! lol

lol Brent. You blow most gardeners away with your knowledge and you're very humble.

Sure Phil. : O)

Awesome. You sound like you're ready to get after it for sure. It's a good feeling. Best to you.

Hydroponic Gardening & More with Brent Thanks !!!!

Nice!

Thank you! Hope it helps you make your own too!

Glad you liked it.

edward pudwill Go for it Ed!

So glad!

No problem. I'm glad you found it useful!

: O)

So nice of you.

I'm glad Mike. Good luck if you start breeding buddy.

Happy to hear that! :O)

Thank you.

It is very rewarding! Creating your own tomato is basically living, edible art that you created. It's satisfying to see every time you're around your new tomatoes. Have fun.

Thank you, I'm going to have to do some thinking of what tomatoes I want to cross, how fun. I love trying new things. This year I harvested my own hulless oats and flax. I also planted kiwi vines. Pawpaw trees are coming this fall. These are the new things we have added to the farm. I like how you compare gardening to art, it is most definitely that way for me as well!

Melissa, I'm with you. Came for the castration, stayed for the tomato sandwiches.

I know! I just watched it. Great gal. That's not sexist, that's southern! :O)

LOL, no need to clarify; I'm old school and I love gal :))

Hi Sasha. You will love Brent's channel.

I already subscribed. He is awesome :) Thank you for the recommendation Lisa :))

:O)

Thanks.

My pleasure!

Thank you too.

Have fun!

My pleasure

Arrrrrgh...blight sucks.

Welcome!

Almost all vegetables, fruits, and grain crops mankind consumes has been from this type of selective breeding. It's made the type of crops we consume so much better than say 1000 years ago. This video is about developing something new for those wanting to know how to do or know how I did it. Of course, that doesn't minimize your thoughts in the least.

Welcome!

Thanks!

Of course Ms. Lisa. All about sharing.

And, I'm very thankful for your comments. Made my day.

You're an amazing gardener Brent. More people should know about your channel. We need to change that.

I do enjoy communicating with others on things. I find the bigger channels a bit too stiff quite often. I think they've got a whole lot of folks to reply to every day. I find that Rob Bob retains a respectful amount of humility for such a large channel and I enjoy watching him. Most of my attention goes to mid-range and smaller gardening folks. I'm getting an increasing amount of emails and private messages asking for help and that is something I really enjoy.

There's a difference in making a video to share knowledge and making a video to pay bills. lol You always share your knowledge just to be sharing. That's refreshing. Thank you for all the time you take to teach and share with us. Much love, Lisa

Thanks

Not necessarily. In some cultivars, the stigma is receptive sooner (sticky), but in others it can dry up and fall off. If you start sooner, to me, it would mean more days of fertilizing to make sure. There may be environmental issues as well as cultivar differences. Go with what works for you as long as you don't let the flower open fully. In actuality, if the flower is even half open, I don't do it. It would suck to think you made a cross only to find out 4 to 6 months later, it may not have.

Justin, I have all kinds of breeding work going on mostly with summer squash, butternut, and tomatoes. Is there something specific you'd like to see?

Dont worry. All your Videos will be interesting for me ;-)

No problem 😊

Sounds about right. A large tomato crossed with a cherry will produce a large cherry that is much closer to the cherry size, but bigger. If you save seed from it, next year and planted 100 plants, many will be orange like Sunsugar, but most will have gotten much larger in size. You'll have lots of color to choose from and size. If you like your current tomato, you'll have to cross CP with SS to get it. If you have saved seed from this one you grew, you can continue to use it in the meantime.

@C3Voyage That's awesome! I have heard about hybrid seeds being 'unstable' trait wise. I'm very interested in growing my own variety so while I do have some of the original hybrid seeds, and I do love this little cross, I think I am going to grow as many of the new seeds as I can next year and pick my favorites!

Thanks Sayed!

I've seen it many times, but never recorded it. Will have to do that.

Each day.

I have seen that before, sure. :O)

Thanks for checking him out Barbara. He really knows his stuff. You wont be disappointed in his channel.

I'd like to add to that Ms. Barbara. I am going to say you sure may be disappointed! This pedestal Ms. Lisa put me on is kind of high and I'm afraid of heights. :O) I'm glad you're part of the family.

lol Brent. I just call 'em like I see 'em.

Aged rice hulls.

Welcome 😊

Feed MG as the package suggests if you want to ensure a good crop. Plants need macro and micro nutrients in sufficient quantities to grow. They will get that (mostly) from MG. If you don't use MG, then they can get it from the soil they're planted in if the soil has enough. And, that's the issue with gardening. Every gardening channel speaks a similar tune: Feed the soil to feed the plants. It would require adding lots of amendments in the form of organic material (composted materials). To ensure that, you'll need a soil test to check how fertile the soil is annually. It will need fungus, bacteria, worms, and more to break down the organic material for the plants to use. Feeding the soil is almost an artform. It's not easy to get the right levels. It's the hardest thing to do in gardening. If you can manage it, it's better than MG. Most fall far short and so their plants look pitiful. Again, check out the gardening channels. All said, if you're plants are NOT luscious, green, and productive, add more MG. If you want to go organic, learn as much as you can about feeding the soil.

I've used rooting hormone. I'm not opposed to the thought of it, but with the breeding I want to do, I think it could be counter to testing/trials.

Yes, mine were slicer size. Same process.

Yes, it would create even more diversity for selecting a new tomato. Make sure the F1 hybrid isn't protected. It will say it on the seed package if it has a PVP or Patent.

Only if you want to make absolutely sure. Without petals, it's not really attractive to them. In my case here, I'm also in the greenhouse where there aren't pollinators. So, yes, in the field I'd likely cover.

Hi Barry. It will be a blend of both parents.

@@C3Voyage Thanks 😊

Limitation to pollen collection in tomato comes from pollinators taking the pollen before you, wind shaking the pollen out, or extreme heat, cold, or humidity. If a bee buzzes the flower, they will take the pollen. They're up early so bagging to prevent it is key. If your plants are in high wind, that will jiggle the pollen to drop. Using protective culture to limit wind prevents this. If temps are above or below 65-85F during the day for a number of days, it'll dry the pollen killing it. If temps at night are above 70F for a number of days, it'll do the same. If it's too humid, the pollen will be too sticky to drop. The window seems narrow, but it's not hard.

@@C3Voyage ok understood very helpful! Thanks

Yes, very similar between tomato, pepper, and eggplant. The key difference is to identify the flower at the right stage.

Thank you for your kind words. Tomato is a "perfect" flower. It has both male and female parts.

@@C3Voyage Thank you for response. Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year! ❤🙏🇵🇭

Pollen doesn't release till flower is open. I've vibrated buds before they open many times and nothing falls. The stigma is receptive a day or so before, but not the pollen in my experience. But, if you want to make extra-sure, emasculate two days prior.

DMS, it sure is. I spend about 10 minutes a day brushing.

I think so. It's how breeders create new varieties of vegetables. It's rewarding for me to create my own pepper or tomato. It's also a form of art or expression in that you're creating something new from other materials so it appeals to my artistic side as well. I have created over 10 new varieties of vegetables that doesn't exist anywhere else except at my house...for example. They meet the characteristics and taste I like. Now, if you're asking if it's possible to cross a tomato with a pepper, the answer is no. They are two different species.

@@C3Voyage Than you, saved me a lot of time trying! Just been looking up on F1, F2 etc and how the daughter fruit changes . Seems really interesting, thanks for all the good videos you make

My pleasure!

Yes. Pollen is 1/2 the tomato makeup.

Tomatoes ovaries self-pollinate by vibration of the flower whether by wind, pollinator (bee), or by hand. But, this video is about crossing two different plants to create a new hybrid.

I've been told I speak slowly. I can speak faster. When we go up north RVing, I pick up the speed for them. :O)

Yes for the most part. Most fruit trees are grafted clones so the seeds will not be true. I wouldn't recommend it because you don't know the other genetics in the seed that pollinated the fruit.

@@C3Voyage Thanks for the answer!

A hybrid first generation is stable only for the first generation (F1) so you can cross both parents and save seed to grow year to year for consistency. Or, you can can grow seed for 8 generations (F8) and then you have a stable tomato you no longer have to cross. At F8, the tomato will produce true to type seed.

.

It's rare unless the stigma is exserted (sometimes exerted spelling) meaning the tip of the female part that's sticky sticks out. In such case, bees can cross them. An exserted stigma can be a trait common to a cultivar (promiscuous tomato), but it also happens when it's hot. Most of the time, crossing doesn't occur because the stigma is hidden under the anther cone and can't be reached. You can Google pics with these terms to see what it looks like. When I want to make sure to get true seed, I bag just before the flower opens for a couple days and jiggle the flower while bagged.

Absolutely! These are slicer tomatoes. Cherry tomatoes are a bear because they're tiny flowers. Also, in a cherry, the anthers that cover the female part you have to gently pick at the base 'cause they don't want to separate from each other easily. Doable though. I've done it many times. Choose the larger flowered parent to emasculate and get pollen from the other one.

@@C3Voyage Thanks so much for the additional tips. I will give it another try once this damp period ends this weekend.

I have tons of crosses I've grown out, and even stabilized into new varieties, but not this one. It was never a priority grow, but more of an example for the camera. I found the parent "Virginia Sweet Meat" created wispy foliage in many cases and that's not a preference of mine.

Think of it like us having a baby. The baby is made up on mom and dad, but mom is till mom. You cannot know what a cross will look like until the seeds are grown, or in the case of the analogy, baby is born/grows up.

@@C3Voyage ok I understand thx. but since we are both males I will have to adopt tomatoes at the grocery store. lol

@@cochise2423 Lol. Not us as in you and I, us as in human beings.

Cross two parents, Brandywine and Cherokee Purple for example. The hybrid is F1. Self (self-pollinate) for 7 more generations and you then have a stabilized new variety.

Cross and save seed from either cherry or larger tomato parent. Doesn't matter. The hybrid will be a large cherry size.

@@C3Voyage can we keep seeds?

@@nikosnianiopoulos Yes, of course.

Can we apply reverse engineering like thing to get the two varieties by which the hybrid is made?

@@SandeepKumar-ns4xk No. In the 2d generation selections are made. You can count on Mendel's laws IF you know what dominant genes to select for which means you need to know what the parents are. Even then, there are way too many gene re-combinations to account for and reverse.

Takes 8 generations of saving seed, but once you've done that, it's all yours!

@@C3Voyage what if they are a seedless variety, I cut open one that was just short of ripe and no seeds to be seen. Would I have to register it as a F1 hybrid and just take cuttings?

@@chrishernandez9277 There is no registry of any tomatoes required. If you feel like you have a seedless type of tomato, and they're all seedless, then only cuttings can keep it going. I doubt that's the case based on my experience. I just released my seedless tomato lines if you haven't seen that and I have extensive experience on parthenocarpy. An occasional seedless fruit is fairly normal. The next thing for you to do is examine the plant. Are there fruits on every flower? Do any have seeds? You can talk to me here or email me. I'll help where I can.

Ok, how to answer this one. Hummm. Tomato flowers have both male and female parts in one flower called a "perfect" flower. Tomatoes seldom cross naturally, but it can happen. This is because most of the time, the female part is surrounded by the male parts covering it. But, at times, the female part (stigma) sticks out a little which can allow rare instances of crossing. If the better boy and a beefsteak cross, the resulting seed, when saved and planted later on will be a blend of better boy/beefsteak and will have qualities of both. Now, the better boy is a hybrid so if he only grew better boy and saved the seed from one better boy tomato, they will not look totally like a better boy. The reason is because it is a hybrid already. I'm thinking that's what happened based on what you're telling me. The plants didn't cross, but because better boy is a hybrid, the plants will be somewhat different from better boy. Some will be closer to it and others wont. If he saves seed from an "OP" known as "Open Pollinated", then the seeds will look like the parent because they've been inbred for generations. Brandywine and Cherokee Purple are common examples of OP varieties. All said, your friend could actually cross the two using this video as an example.

You can certainly try. The pollen is within the anther cone so it may not fall. If you buzz the pollen onto a dark surface, you can not only see that the pollen makes contact with the stigma, but you can pollinate lots of different flowers with the same pollen.

@@C3Voyage Thank you for your explanation!

Hey Kimberly, this video was to demonstrate how. It works most times if you do it right. My channel is loaded with "proof" as most tomatoes you see in any of my videos are results of such crosses. I didn't create a specific video to show what a Virginia Sweet Meat x Rebel Yell looks like. I had so many going and this cross didn't make the "continue on" list.

@@C3Voyage can we use the seeds of the crossed tomato.. and what is the result?

@@merenish Yes, seed from any tomato you save will grow to a full plant and produce tomatoes. The tomato from a simple cross like this one is the exact same thing as the "hybrids" you buy at stores. It's called an F1 or first generation. The simple cross seed that comes from this video is a "hybrid" just the same. The seed of F1s are very consistent looking the same and growing the same. When they say don't save hybrid seed, it means you're saving the seed of an F1 and those seed are actually F2 or second generation. It's the second generation where you get all kinds of segregated diversity. In other words, they wont be consistent. That's the best generation for people like me who want to take advantage of new looks and tastes. If you save seed from the same line till to F8 and they become a consistent, open pollinated version. The seed from the cross in this video will be a combination of both parents where dominating characteristics will present. Most times, it looks like a cross of the two. Its very fun!

I'm not sure what you're after with the term hybridize. Most parthenocarpic cucumbers are hybrids. Usually, a hybrid is a cross of two open pollinated varieties. If you're asking how to save seed from a parthenocarpic plant, you need a male flower's pollen. Selfing ensures you get the same amount of parthenocarpy and all females, but alas, how do you do that? Well, you can change the expression of the plant with hormones. Research GA3 and cucumber. If applied to one of your plants by spraying the leaves, the plant will start forming male flowers instead of females after a couple weeks. Then you can use the male. I've actually used the same exact plant by cutting and rooting it after a couple months grow. Then, I take the cuttings and grow several plants changing 2 to express male flowers. You'll have to do the research on it. It's been a while since I've done it so the process escapes my immediate thoughts. Do your homework. It's out there. Good luck.

@@C3Voyage Thanks. How should I root cucumber cuttings? In water or in a soil pot? Because I have not done this yet

@@persiandev4141 Cucumbers have little suckers at every node. I took a full sized cucumber plant and cut it into sections leaving that tiny sucker at the top and 2 to 3 inches of stem below it. i put them in aerated water and they all rooted. They're easier than squash. Aerated water. Can put a little bit of nutrient in the water once they start rooting.

@@C3Voyage Thank You With your help, my problem was solved. I will announce the result later.

I must heartedly disagree. It's what I do. Cultivar means "cultivated variety." It's super easy to Google. In scientific speak, cultivar is most often used. Here's a quick summarization of some definitions. All easy to Google. • The term ‘variety’ is used for botanical taxonomy, while the term’ cultivar’ is used for the products of plant breeding. • A cultivar is intentionally bred using cultivation methods by plant breeders, whereas a variety is grown naturally without any human influence. • The nomenclature of cultivar is deferent from that of variety. For example, cultivar is named with each word capitalized and placed in single quotation marks. In contrast, variety is named by the abbreviation “var.” followed by the variety in italics. • Unlike the varieties, cultivars could be mutations on plants or could be hybrids of two plants. • Cultivars usually have characteristic features, which differ from the mother plant, whereas varieties usually have the same features of the mother plant. But, if you tell me what you do and it's significant in experience, then I'll rethink and possibly even re-use different terms. No hard feelings any which way.

@@C3Voyage A cultivar is a plant that has been grown from a stem cutting, grafting, or tissue cultures to ensure it retains the characteristics of the plant parent. A variety is a type of plant grown from seed that has the same characteristics as the plant parent.

@@gilshelley9183 No, you cherry-picked a definition to present a faulty argument. Here it is in full and anyone can Google it as it's mentioned tons of times essentially the same: What Is a Cultivar in Horticulture? A plant cultivar refers to a variation within a plant species that has been developed by a human horticulturist through controlled plant breeding, as opposed to occurring naturally. The term “cultivar” is a portmanteau of "cultivated variety." When writing the complete scientific name of a plant cultivar, the cultivar name comes after the name of the genus and species. The cultivar name is unitalicized, set off in single quotation marks, and the first letter of each word is capitalized. Here’s an example of how to write a cultivar name: Rudbeckia hirta ‘Denver Daisy’. To create a new cultivar, growers crossbreed parent plants that each have desirable characteristics in the hopes that their offspring will inherit those traits. Once a grower ends up with a new cultivar with the desired traits, the grower must then ensure future generations of that cultivar maintain those distinguishing characteristics. To accomplish this, the grower has to use either controlled pollination or various methods of asexual propagation (plant cloning), such as grafting, tissue culture, and cutting. If the grower tries to propagate the cultivar by seed, the offspring plant will most likely not be identical to the parent plant. Variety vs. Cultivar: 3 Key Differences Varieties and cultivars both refer to a variation of a plant within a species, but there are a few key differences: 1. Development: Varieties develop naturally, while cultivars are developed through human intervention. 2. Characteristics: Seeds planted from a variety tend to grow true to type (i.e., the offspring retains the parent plant's unique characteristics), while seeds planted from a cultivar will most likely not be true to type. 3. Categorization: A variety name is written in lowercase and italicized font, while a cultivar name is written unitalicized inside single quotes with the first letter of each word capitalized. What Is a Plant Variety? The term "plant variety" has a different meaning than variety on its own. A plant variety is a legal term coined by the International Union for the Protection of New Varieties of Plants (UPOV) that recognizes certain cultivars as official plant varieties in order to grant the creator of the cultivar legal protection. This practice is commonly referred to as plant breeders' rights. The term “plant variety” describes a legally protected cultivar and should not be confused with the taxonomic rank term of variety.

@@C3Voyage I direct your attention to section 502 of the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature. No cherry picking here.

​@@gilshelley9183 Boy, you sure do go down swinging and throwing out junk. You're what I call a "right-fighter" or someone that must be right no matter what and incapable of learning, growing and humbling oneself when spouting untruths. To reflect back to your original statement at the top and clarify: In fact, the word CULTIVAR IS THE MOST COMMON TERM USED. If you'd pointed me to something real, I would have agreed to what you stated and thanked you for letting me know, but you didn't. I'll even lay it out again. If somehow you come up with something new with quotes or a link to disprove the information below (not sure how), then I'll admit I haven't seen that before and I can see how you formulated your assertions. There is no clarification in the entire ICBN text I could find that you directed me to. 502 doesn't exist as far as my search shows. The ICBN has a bit of relevance, but the The International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated Plants (ICNCP) is the guide to the rules and regulations for naming cultigens, plants whose origin or selection is primarily due to intentional human activity. It is also known as Cultivated Plant Code. This is more applicable. Here's the publication link: www.researchgate.net/publication/315443888_International_Code_of_Nomenclature_for_Cultivated_Plants and there's a button to download a .pdf for the latest full text. Note, it is the LATEST version. Lots of clarification directly related to our convo. The publication is interesting, and Chapter 2 precisely, and undeniably says: ____ Page 6: 2.2. The English words “variety”, “form”, and “strain” or their equivalents in other languages must not be used for the word “cultivar” when fulfilling the Articles of this Code nor in translations of this Code. Note 2. The words “variety” in English, “variété” in French, “variedad” in Spanish, “variedade” in Portuguese, “varietà” in Italian, “ras” in Dutch, “Sorte” in German, “sort” in Scandinavian languages, “sort” (“сорт”) in Russian, “pinzhong” (“品种” in simplified form, and “品種” in traditional form)” in Chinese, “hinshu” (“品種”) in Japanese, and corresponding terms in other languages, have been used as common equivalents to the word “cultivar”. ------ Page 8: 2.14. Plants of a line (which results from repeated self-fertilization or inbreeding) may form a cultivar. Ex. 12. Beta vulgaris ‘SP6 926-0’, Helianthus annuus ‘HA306’, Lactuca sativa ‘Kagraner Sommer’, Phaseolus vulgaris ‘Contender’, Triticum aestivum ‘Marquis’, and Zea mays ‘Wisconsin 153’ are all lines. ----- Page 8: 2.16. Plants of the same F1 hybrid (the result of a deliberate repeatable single cross between two pure-bred lines) may form a cultivar. Ex. 14. Brassica oleracea ‘King Arthur’, Capsicum annuum ‘Delight’, and Sorghum bicolor ‘Texas 610’ are all F1 hybrids. I won't communicate with you again if you try and refute this. I'll leave up your comments, but I think I've made my point...clearly.