Thanks man! That is a super nice comment. I appreciate you saying that.

I'm a blue oval guy too. I wish I had the extra room in my Super Duty, too.

Not too bad. Lower level is roughly 30x40.

I doubt itll do much towing

Is that a bad weld? If so what is the solution?

The trucks actually Been holding up rather well.

So do you have x-ray vision? According to the AWS, poor fusion requires a destructive test of section and etch if ultrasound isn't available. But go on.

Thanks

How did that go? That's why I'm here. Plan on doing that shortly

It is all factory frame. Assembled the same way the factory did (slot weld, joint weld). I have no problems with it. I have a few friends who have done this and they are just fine too. Don't see why it would give you a problem as long as your welds are solid.

SWAT Diesel hahahaha

Not sure if the frame on a 1500 is the same as a 2500/3500. You would need to do some measuring.

For me, it wasn't a matter of difficulty (pretty much no fabrication needed. All major components are factory. Fuels lines and wiring were the only things that I needed to physically extend myself.) This is a fairly straight forward conversion. It was time. With the kids, school (finishing my Mechanical Engineering degree), and weather, it took a few months to complete. Luckily, I had another vehicle to drive.

I was putting exhaust on my 03 and seen the frame was cracked, the long ways...not happy. think the dodge rams are very nice trucks but, poorly built. thanks for the help/info and again love that truck looks good!! cant get over that stance! and those wheels fit the whole look! nice job

All Gold.

this was done as a series for a magazine. If we do to many steps at a single time, then it becomes either one mega story or we have to chop up the story into multiple parts. In addition, it is financially easier on us, if we do small bits at a time.

All joints are in the same location as the factory. The rear section of the frame slides into the middle section probably 8 inches. There are two slots welded and then the outer joint is welded. The frames become one, and the frame sections are all factory. The factory frame has been engineered with enough safety margin that the extra 20 inches shouldn't present any type of problem. I know a ton of people who do and have done this conversion and I have never heard of anyone having a sagging problem if it was welded without a sag. I do know one who threw a driveshaft doing burnouts, but that is the only thing I know of.

Sorry for the delay getting back to you. Because I was shooting this for the magazine, doing it in my spare time, it took a few months to be completely honest. I would work on it for an hour here or there. I have other trucks and having this one down didn't affect me. As far as actual hours, I would say probably close to 40 if you factor in all the wiring, brake lines, axle swap, etc.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Here is the link to the story on the wheels www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/wheels-tires/project-mclb-heavy-hauler-gets-new-american-force-twister-wheels/

Thanks. It was a lot of work.

I can only imagine all the work that went into it. Great job though.

It is not a one piece driveshaft. If you look at the images closer, you will see that the front section of the driveshaft remained the same. I only replaced/extended the rear section. And that was like 18 inches or something (long time ago). I know of quite a few of these conversions and none of them have driveshaft vibration issues.

+Nasty72Nova about 24 inches from the cross brace. I originally spent a lot of time measuring the first time i cut a frame to be grafted in. got it to be with in 1/64 of the factory frame. Then i realized it doesn't need to be anywhere that close. The factory frame tapers in and i just measured at that and cut the quad frame slight;y longer. I believe it was 24 inches from the brace. Once I realized it didn't matter that much I just focused on getting the cab mounts lined up.

Honestly I don't know.

Hey Chris, I just got back into the country. I'm happy to help if I can. Click on my channel (C12H23+02Power) Click the About tab (Next to Home, Videos, Playlists, Channels, Discussion). Click Send message (right hand side across from subscribers and views) . Then just him me up with your questions. Thanks,

The factory frame was cut at a joint. The factor portion of the frame is flared out (slip joint). The long bed frame was cut square and it slides into the factory frame. (5:43 in the video shows this well)

I agree. Bug im sure not everyone knows that.

+iriderm250 The SRW to DRW conversion was straight forward. The DRW axle is about three inches shorter than the SRW axle. The easiest way to do this conversion is to buy/trade axles with someone looking to do a DRW to SRW conversion. Luckily I was able to find someone and we did a straight across trade. The wiring was extended by splicing in (two splices, one on each end of the wire). The factory fuel line was cut and another line spliced in that I bought with the frame (one splice). The rear section of the driveshaft was extended. This kept the carrier bearing in the same location.

How about tow capacity?

+Paul Ever Cabrera Jimenez. To keep the ride soft, I opted to use 3/4 ton springs. So, the towing capacity is the same as it was before. My intent is to add overload airbags to increase the towing capacity. With them, it will be that over a 3500.

Wooooh ! Thats a kind of a had in mind! Now i suscribed you channel to know how this proyect continue

You would be better off starting with a new truck. You would be changing everything (cab, bed, and frame).

Thanks

How?

The key here is the distance, "the rear mount to the bed" is the same. So, splicing in the frame section under the cab will ensure the bed doesn't hit the cab and it looks factory. Just need to make sure the rear mount on the cab is in the same place when you re-weld it.

Yes, but you might be better off just finding a short bed frame, and moving everything over. One key if you decide to cut the frame, make sure your rear leaf springs will work and/or get the rear leaf springs from the long bed.

Drive shaft was extremely easy. I retained the front section of the two piece drive shaft. It has the carrier bearing and that section remained the same length. The rear section was removed (slides out) and taken down to a drive shaft shop. They made a new shaft (reusing the ends) to the correct length. If you don't want to worry about having issues down the road, keep the drive shaft as a two piece. That is a lot of weight spinning and it is best to have it supported in the middle. There is a reason that manufactures spend the extra money to make drive shafts two pieces and not go the cheaper route of using a one piece. As far as your plan on stretching the frame, there are a few companies that do it that way. Just keep in mind that adding a gooseneck hitch or anything else frame mounted could require some modification (not that there is anything wrong with that).

I fully anticipate modification when putting the B&W hitch back in the truck. Having it mount 6 inches in front of the frame like it is now is absurd. It will be moved to about 1" in front. I'd also like to bag it for over-load purposes so I'm sure there will be lots of mods. I do like your method of just sliding in the long bed frame and not having to screw with moving spring perches and overload stops.

By changing the frame over, we were able to then just buy accessories and bolt them in. For the conversion, I used a long bed fuel tank, filler neck, made fuel lines, extended the wiring, extended the exhaust, added an extension for the rear brake line, new rear section of the drive shaft, new e-brake cable, and used an 03 frame section. Once the conversion was done, everything I bought after was for an 03. One note, if you do swap the frame, please check to make sure you have the right springs. They are different between a 2wd and 4wd. I bought a 4wd frame before I realized I screw up. Ended up having to buy another frame. That was wasted money. On a good side, the second frame, came with the leaf springs. So, all I needed to do was bolt up the axle.

Thanks. I think I have a lead on a frame.

Soooooo....do you still have the 4x4 frame? What are the spring differences? Just length from center to center of the perches....or basically, the length of the top spring?

This was done so long ago, I don't remember if it has to be a mega cab. The key was the join under the cab. The Mega cab and Quad cab have the same back half. It would make since that a single cab long bed would too, but I don't know that for sure. See if you can get a photo of a frame and see if the joint is in the same place. It would be even better if you could take a few measurements. Dodge/RAM would want to make these frames as modular as possible. It would make since they are the same. I just don't know that for 100%.

Thanks

Had a new section made from the carrier bearing back.

I have not done any research on S10's and cannot speak to this conversion on that. Sorry

that will work. the key is that the donor frame is a long bed.

Up front, I got some dually hubs (factory). With the wheels that we ended up choosing, I didn't use them, but that was all that was needed. In the back, I had a friend who was converting from a dually to a single rear wheel and we just traded rear axles.

All is well in the frame. Spacing between cab and bed are ok, body lines line up, all is well.

I don't quite remember. There was some interference with the front bumper. Here is the story: www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/wheels-tires/project-mclb-heavy-hauler-gets-new-american-force-twister-wheels/

I expected it to be 4 lanes, but really, it was pretty much unchanged (2.5~2.75 lines). My F-250 crew cab 4x4 has a much wider turning radius than the Mega Cab Long Bed 2wd.

Yeah, I cut the wiring harness and just added a section to each wire. I was originally planning on keeping the donor wiring harness and splicing it in (one splice instead of two) but I must have thrown it away.

@@hpdiesel4538 where about a did you cut it because we have a short in the rear once in a while with the rear lights. I’ve peeked underneath but it all looks stock. We own that truck now. Runs great.

@@rubenalberto4919 If I remember correctly (been a long time ago), I spliced in the wires around where the fill neck is. I didn't have the fuel tank in at the time, but I think that is about where I did it.

I’m not the right person to ask. But stiffer sway bars would help with roll. Adding air bags will allow you to level the vehicle is it isn’t sitting level. I think stiffer springs may help as well. Even adjustable shocks might help. But I would talk to a suspension company.

@@hpdiesel4538 i have heard many negative things about stretching wheel axels. that's why i asked you. thanks for replying. very helpful. thanks

@@buyhighselllow2209 the problems with stretching a vehicle has little to do with your question. Your concern is more about vehicle width and suspension dynamics. High center of gravity vehicles can be very tippy. They are tippy side to side not forwards and backwards. That is a width and stability issue.

@@hpdiesel4538 yes. someone suggested extending the width of tires and length of that rod on which wheels are attached. but the second step is the one every talks negative about. sorry my english is not good.

American Force Wheels

This was not offered from the factory.

Because it’s way to damn long u can’t park it anywhere

Naw man you really cant tell they stretched the frame, it looks like factor!

Payload is greatly determined by the springs. I kept 2500 springs for a soft ride, but the plan was to use air bags for additional capacity. I actually sold the truck before I ended adding them.

Thanks. Really wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. As long as you take your time, it is a very doable project.

They are American Force wheels

I made little pucks to fit into the factory cab mounts. (full article here www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/other-tech/video-install-diy-mega-cab-long-bed-conversion/ ) and used those to base the measurements off of. I also took a number of measurements off the ground and various other points. Because the frame slips into the other, the horizontal alignment was easy. Making sure the frame was square actually wasn't that bad. My first shot I think I was like 1/8 or less off. Couple hammer taps and it went right in. The factory pretty much made this job easy. The female ends are flared only enough to fit the amount of frame necessary. So, it wasn't like I could go to much.

@@hpdiesel4538 Thank you for the article and your explanation. I have one other question (because I'm kind of automotively stupid, I suppose. I love this idea of extending a MegaCab with an 8 foot bed. That's why I'm asking these questions. So...if you are adding an 8 foot bed and extending the wheel base (I assume the wheelbase becomes something akin to that of a regular Ram with an 8 foot bed, plus a little more (the additonal inches of the MegaCab that the regular doesn't have), then what happens with the transmission? Isn't it extended to meet up with the real axel, and if so, does this process, say with an Aisin transmission, compromise the quality of the transmission in any way? Maybe I just don't understand where exactly a transmission extends to. Any understanding of this would be much appreciated.

@@FredHerrman Hey Fred. If you are extending the frame like I did in this video/article, then you are only extending the rear section. The engine, transmission and if you have one, transfer case would remain in the stock location. This truck is a two wheel drive so there is no transfer case. In my case, there is a carrier bearing about half way back that holds the two piece driveshaft. I extended the rear section of the driveshaft about 14 inches if I remember correctly. That additional length won't make a difference in this application. Now if this was a 4 wheel drive and a transfer case was used, I'm not sure if there would be a factory carrier bearing or not. But I would just do as the factory quad cab long beds do. If a 4 wheel drive truck uses a carrier bearing, then I would add one. If you are really not sure, just talk to a driveshaft shop. The will need max RPM (of the shaft not engine), horsepower, torque, and length. From that will tell you the diameter of the shaft and recommend either a one piece or two. That make since?

@@FredHerrman Actually, if you pause the video right at the beginning, you can see the end of the transmission, front section of the driveshaft, and the carrier bearing (where the fuel tank is). All of these components stay in the same location. Then a new rear driveshaft was added, but this will give you an idea of what it looks like behind the transmission.

@@hpdiesel4538 Okay, I understand now. I really appreciate it, thank you very much!

I also have a crew cab 4x4 Super Duty. This Dodge turns circles around my Ford. Turning radius didn't really change much. So, it still drives the same. Parking, well, that is a different story. It is now a dually and a long bed. So, it isn't really for California or other areas with small parking spots.

Drives surprisingly well. I Know. 😂

That is a ton of additional work. Way outside the scope of this article.

This project was done for a magazine. So, each step needed to be shot and done separately. In addition to that, I damaged the bed bringing it home. I didn't want to risk damaging the bed once it was fixed and painted. Way easier to do the conversion knowing that if i scratched or dented anything it wasn't a big deal.

The tires in this video/article were to big. They rubbed.

Wheels are too south of the boarder looking put stock wheels on it man !!!!

So, nothing would line up and the frame would not extend to the rear of the bed. This would require a tremendous amount of work. The method shown here, only require a small amount of fabrication.

Hey Ray, Not sure I completely follow your question. Your 3500 mega cab is probably a short bed and the single cab is a long bed. The rear sections of the frame are different (long bed is about 20 inches longer). The spring perches are also most likely different. (Found that out when I did this. Ended up having to buy a second rear section because this truck was 2wd and I bought a 4wd frame. The difference in ride height is done mostly at the spring perch not in the spring package or blocks under the springs.) The center sections of the frame are also different. The single cab has a very short center section where as your mega cab has a very long section and an extra set of mounts. Hope that answered your question.

Hey Jamie, It took roughly 40 hours and would cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $1,400 to $3,000. I ended up in the middle of that range because I had to buy two frames. If you were to pay someone to do this conversion, you are looking at $4,500 to $6,000. If you want to know more, here is the article on this conversion www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/other-tech/video-install-diy-mega-cab-long-bed-conversion/

Lincoln Projec

They don't make a Mega Cab Long Bed Dually. So, if you want one, you build one.

D

High Diamond why wouldn’t you but I got to admit this thing is a long bitch

Everyone that has a mega cab. That's who. Otherwise they look like snoopy ,big head and no ass and no room for much.