Lol 😂

A/C 101 😄

These are secrets of the trade, can’t show noobies right off the bat about tank/stool... I still want to laugh at the noobs that buy those mini stools when I visit the suppliers!...

😆.. I do it all the time!!

😂

They work fine. If you listen to the system and add gas slow you can get away without it.

i see bergman never answered your question

You can't because of the inverter. The unit will ramp up based on what it feels (with the thermistors). It would be very difficult to charge a system based of your gauge pressure.

I agree had a hell of a time trying to use measure quick on a heat pump in the winter time.

Charge to weight is the only real way for a mini-split.

It is very much made for beginners, all you need to do is properly place the probes. MeasureQuick will do the calculations and diagnostics for you.

You can only go by the manufacturer’s guidelines and get it close. Heat pumps always need to be charged in cooling for the most accuracy.

@@measureQuick Yes, I went by the manufacturer's table at 25°F OT. I got it as close as I could. Schrader cores were loose and I lost some Refrigerant. I am still monitoring. I have all the probes now in order to keep measuring. However, the videos I have seen so far, are not as informative as I would like. Goodman just tells you to get the SH at 5°F. I will keep measuring and wait till summer time.

@@CHOMAHOMA So that would likely be superheat controlled by the outdoor metering device. Make sure that you are measuring on the true suction between the reversing valve and compressor for both temperature and pressure. Add gas very slowly if you have an accumulator.

@@measureQuick OK. It is a pain to get to the Suction line to take the temperature with the probe. Trane units are the best considering that aspect. Thank you for your advice.

It could if charge migrated to the evaporator.

Dave brooklyn opening the ball valve pushes refrigerant all the way through the hose. The connection tee has a schrader.

dave johnsonnola no doubt or maybe HVAC x-ray vision tools. Inspection cameras are great peeking in the EC to identify the metering device 😊

Yes exspecially with these N coils, a lot of installer errors

@@mychoclabwinston very true!!!

@@chrisbentley9615 Chris you can tell the type of metering device by blocking off the condenser air flow raising the head pressure . On a fixed orifice pressure and superheat are affected greatly. Where as a TXV not so much it Maintains the superheat,and to a great deal pressure is not as responsive. Just a big Tech Tip!!!

Tom Thumb that is the outdoor part of a Sensi Predict system.

Us resi installer hacks would break them

That is a 1” pleated.

It’s custom made with Pyrex glass and protected with a polycarbonate cover.

@@measureQuick Oh that makes sense.

A lot of techs will refer to refrigerant as gas, in the same way its commonly referred to as freon. He does not mean that he is adding the refrigerant in its gaseous form, he is just calling the refrigerant "gas". R22, the previous most common refrigerant for residential systems could be added as a gas no problem (this is also were the name "gas" most likely came from). Adding as a gas is "safer" because you wont slug the compressor with liquid by mistake. BUT, it is significantly slower to charge as a gas. You can charge any refrigerant as a liquid, as long as you use your hose valve, or manifold to meter the flow into the system. this is done by only opening the valve or manifold a little bit. As long as you are careful, you will be fine, and you will eventually develop a feel for it. I do not think there are any refrigerants that are "best" charged as a gas. some refrigerants MUST be charged as a liquid, like 410A, 407C, and any blended refrigerant. Ones like R22 are not blends. Blended refrigerants need to be charged as a liquid to prevent the different chemicals from entering the system at different rates. If you look on the bottle of refrigerant you will often see big arrows pointing to the bottom or top. The arrows tell you what end needs to be up during charging. A lot of them will even just write it on the bottle itself.

Nope, I am testing it all the time, it looses gas from frequent testing

pull a bit of the wire you wanna take amp draw on up through a hole into the furnace cabinet, works great

@@davidjenkins4838 Not possible on any air handler I have worked on. Furnaces, maybe.

An air handler you could measure from the disconnect. A furnace you can measure from the burner panel where the main wire comes in. For most anyway. Or you can put the meter in with the blower and read numbers via bluetooth

@@CombatFIFChuck You can stream the numbers via bluetooth and then manually input them, but you can't auto capture them. Not sure how you measure at the disconnect for an air handler, unless you have an external disconnect.

Not necessarily, with tools like measureQuick the design temperature differences are calculated and we can diagnose problems at much lower temperatures. You can easily work at temperatures between 55 and 65° with confidence.

cashion556, If the charging hose was reversed, you would not be able to depress the Schrader core at the service valve; you would also not be able to get any refrigerant for the same reason (that you may have figured out by now). The end at the tank does not have a core depressor, while the end at the valve does.

Nanda Davis no internet connection required to use and it can be connected to multiple probes. Even different manufacturers at the same time.

G GRIM RIPPER the TXV is modulating open and closed. Not quite “hunting” but modulation between about 7-10 degrees of superheat if I remember.

We made an updated version that addresses that. Thanks for the feedback! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gNehe65krZ3GqJs.htmlsi=uYR0MFJNTrSQVET_

Cory Desormeaux have you ever seen one with a dip tube?

Low load is a headache, especially with low airflow too.

Joe Shearer up here in Canada that’s all we have. We never flip our 410 bottles when charging because we have the liquid valve that pulls from the bottom

Cory Desormeaux Wow here in the states I’ve never seen a bottle with a dip tube.

José Cruz I never recommend emptying out what’s in the hoses into the system. What’s in the system is in the system adding anything else will just create an overcharge. Any more a few ounces can make a big difference.

@@measureQuick how do you recommend emptying the hoses? Dump to atmosphere? Set up for recovery just for hoses?

As long as you are not feeding in the liquid to fast it will not cause any damage to the compressor.

Yes

Watch it again, it was purged. I just checked it myself, not something I would typically miss

Supco Charging Tee CTEE14

Ken Marriott not needed, just throttle it in slowly. Scrolls are pretty durable also.

Thanks

geloh DomRac MeasureQuick HVAC

The hose was purged at 4:30. There were no non-condensibles added to the system. The evaporator has a plexiglass cover for training. It is not open.

Yes, they are a huge pain and usually goopped up because they leak air otherwise. I try to rule out everything else before diving into an evap coil

Maui Kawi opening the ball valve pushes the air out of the ball valve all the way to the service port. There is no need to purge again or the other direction. The unit has a tee with a schrader.

@@measureQuick You are saying that the short hose after the ball valve, with no low loss fitting on it like you have, is not open to atmosphere?

Tom Thumb yes, I pushed the atmosphere out with refrigerant. The air pushed out, the atmosphere will not enter the hose quickly.

@@measureQuick no

@@mauikawi4290 Might want to show a little respect and consider the possibility that Jim knows a little more than you do. I suspect that he is saying that the rate of diffusion of the atmosphere back into the hose, and the rate of diffusion of the refrigerant out of the hose, when both are at equal pressures, is small enough in the short amount of time that it takes to attach the hose, that it is negligible. If you're worried about it, bleed it again once you've got the hose attached.

Who told you that? 15 minutes at most. If you are talking a heat pump with an accumulator that makes sense, but for straight cooling it 30 minutes is excessive.