Sometimes the unthreaded ends of the brake pipe nuts are flared out a little when the pipes are tightened. This can be the cause of difficulties in starting the thread on re assembly. Leaving the mounting nuts until after the pipes enables one to align the treads more easily.

Hi - thanks, I might have one of these in my garage from a A3 1.8T so can check model numbers and size but will be a few days. On the second question I'm unsure but will answer with a generalisation that brakes tended to get better with time and the higher horsepower models had 288mm brakes and the special R32/S3 has 312mm brakes (if I remember correctly) so I imagine the parts would need to be sized to match accordingly and on the earlier marks I imagine that they would be smaller It's crazy as over time we see brakes keep getting bigger so would be interesting to see what a V10 Tourareg uses. One potential way to check this would be using ebay to find car reg's and EuroCarParts to see what parts they stock?

Hi, thanks for the answer. Mk4 R32 is with 334 mm front brakes and dual piston calipers and S3 is 312mm front discs and single piston Ate 54 calipers. You're right that parts need to match, but finding the correct part numbers is not an issue since there are a lot of catalogues. As for the brake booster there are two models which are installed on golf mk4/A3 - one is single pot/chamber/diaphragm 10" diameter, mounted on lhd vehicles and the other one is dual pot/chamber 7/8" size mounted on rhd vehicles. My question is if you have observation which of the two brake servo is more effective/provides bigger pressure on the master cylinder? In general dual diaphragm/chamber servos are more productive than single ones (for instance on Passat B5/Audi A4/A6 platform), but not always. So I'm searching for someone with practical observation to confirm or deny that hypothesis. On Golf mk4 base all lhd vehicles are with single pot servo (stock) and on rhd cars they mount dual chamber servo. I know that one of the reason is lack of space/room in rhd vehicles. I just don't know if there's any difference between the two models. Unfortunately I haven't driven a rhd mk4 to make a comparison with the lhd version. BR

We got it better but not perfect. I've had better results since vacuum bleeding.

you need vcds/vagcom for abs bleeding, its a pain in the ass i will never do anything that has something to do with emptying the brake fluid dry.

Shakeel France ive the exact same situation .skoda octavia 1u5.

Pressure bleed it should help also you may have to cycle the abs pump

Vag com abs bleed, start from closest line to the master, and bleed the next one when done with front same on back and then for manual gearbox you bleed the clutch as well. If that doesn't help- take it for a spin try carefully your brakes a few time and come back. you might want to go the opposite way and start another bleeding from the back but but use a wood board to block the brake pedal from travelling too far to the ground when doing a two mans bleeding method.