You're very welcome, happy I was able to help!

Thank you!

@@4DIYers 1.

Thank you so much!

Awesome to hear you got it fixed and thank you for the feedback!

Happy to help and thank you for the feedback!

Thank you!

You're welcome!

Right on, awesome to hear and thank you for the feedback!

Glad I could help!

You're very welcome!

Thank you!

You're welcome!

Glad it helped!

Thank you. Unfortunately there isn't much that can be done. Threadlocker may interrupt the connection and it's too delicate to stack the threads. If anything, maybe it wasn't tightened enough from factory.

Thank you!

Thank you! No speedometer cable, it's electronic.

Glad I could help and thank you!

No problem, happy to help!

Thank you so much! The white faces where stock on this truck. I would imagine there is probably some aftermarket support for the early model first gen Tacomas.

you can do it! I just did it on my 98 since its electrical and not manual like in the 95-97 you can do the swap and all of the gauges work.

Thanks!

Try gently wiggling it from side to side. As far as I know, 04 is the same as 01.

Remove the light bulb

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I think you are in luck. When you hook up an OBD tool on a vehicle with no tachometer in the dash, note that you do in fact have RPM functionality within/monitored by the ECS. So it's all about the harness then - tach/non-tach clusters use the exact same connectors [most vehicles], and your Sienna likely has an existing input awaiting a gauge as long as that was an OEM option for that year. I'm in the same boat as you [except I'm not driving a Sienna] but haven't tackled the project yet so all I can recommend is reviewing the manuals before throwing money at parts. Start with factory manual [volume 2 has the non-engine bits] and refer to Body Electrical section [BE-40 through BE-42 for a 1995 tacoma]. They call the tach trigger an "igniter" for some reason - that's the input you need to drive the meter. i also found the wiring diagram book helpful [publication EWD 231U for the 1995 Tacoma]. Technical writing might have connector labeling not in agreement [A, B, C, etc] between books - don't worry about that, just make corrections based on what you find is true for the cluster: it worked as shipped so markup any drawings that need it. In most cases, I go with number of pins as an early indicator of what is right: that much follows design engineering or it wouldn't have shipped in the first place. Publications get labeling confused between what the tech sees building a cluster [left to right] and forget to mirror labeling on drawings more often than they care to admit when doing technical writing. I'm very happy to have found this video, because it covers my current situation perfectly: temp gauge is generally off, and gas gauge jumps around from time to time - my local dealership doesn't handle electrical problems worth beans, but that's another story. And... I notice something very interesting at 6:10 showing the meter movement connections had no star washers between nuts and flat washers to prevent vibration or thermal events from loosening nuts over time. Gotta fix that.

Loose bolts on the temp gauge. The full video is here for troubleshooting and repair kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLx6htp2xtG2pKM.html The fuel gauge is known to have the same issue too.

Just disconnect the battery.

Unfortunately the only way to get it out is pulling everything apart.

20 minutes if you take your time.

Sounds like it could be a wiring issue. Although a quick check would be switching back to factory involves if the aftermarket versions are causing a problem. The dim headlights can also be caused by a bad ground. You’ll need to use a multimeter, start at your headlights and work your way back.

@@4DIYers Okay. Thank You. I do have a DMM and will begin tracing wiring back. When I said aftermarket low beams, I misspoke. I meant fog lamps mounted on billy bar. I'm also thinking it could be connector corrosion.