A few updates after I did this job to both front doors on my 2003 525iTA: - the driver side is a little harder because there is an extra link to the key lock. When putting the latch assembly back in, point the star shaped link from the lock barrel down and feed it into the green receiver on the outside of the latch. - there is an extra connector on the driver side, presumably this is the sensor to tell the car the state of the manual key lock. - I didn't have much trouble with the Bowden cable on either side. turn them inboard to free them. but to fully release them, the red end of the insulation will come free when you drop the latch assembly down. it's harder to get this red end tip into place after reinstalling. I bolted the assembly into place first. then if you bend the cable enough you can get the cable through the gap, then drop the red end piece into place. no need to worry about the battery trick to keep the actuator up. - after you put the latch back in place with the new actuator, you want to test it to make sure it's working. On the passenger side, I had no problem. On the drivers side, it seem dead until I tried connecting the window switch first. Then it worked fine. On the passenger side, there is a separate control box, which you can leave in place for this job. On the driver side, the control box is integrated into the window switch. So it has to be connected first before the latch can work. then you have to un-connect it to reinstall the door card. - once getting the new actuator in place and the window switch installed, the latch would make noise but not really move. This is because the lock won't work when the driver door is open. to avoid locking yourself out of the car. so manually latch the mechanism so that it thinks the door is closed, then try the key fob to test the actuator. - Be sure to get new butyl tape to re-install the foam vapor barrier. in some cars, the vapor barrier is just an extra layer of sound and moisture control. On the E39, the curve of the door means the bottom of the window (when up) is roughly in line with the bottom edge of the vapor barrier. So when water runs down the window, and gets inside the door (which is normal) the only thing keeping it from getting inside is the bond at the bottom of the vapor barrier. when I bought my car, I wondered why it smelled like gym socks. (yes, the A/C causes this problem also) but the real cause was the rear carpets got soaked in the rain. don't worry about the top edge, but be sure to clean off the old sealant and reinstall new butyl tape around the other three edges.

Thank you! Your's is by far the best video I've seen on this. Notes while doing this on the 2002 BMW 525i (driver's door) today: - For the hard part with the cable, if you stick your finger underneath that part of the case you can easily push it up and things become a lot easier. - It isn't necessary to take off the door handle. - Only the black actuator motor on top of the mechanism needs replacement. The plastic guard on the back comes off with one screw, and the black actuator motor on top lifts off after spreading the remaining side wall to release the tab. - You can get away without detaching the inner handle's cable too (although this really isn't a big deal)- just feed it through the hole after the actuator during removal, and before the actuator during reinstallation. - Eric Lee has below described the star-shaped link from the lock barrel.

I don't have this model, but the info. you provided on the actuator pieces, functions, and installation is the most useful advice I've found so far--even better than a BMW dealership mechanic I met with yesterday!

Awesome video, this is exactly what i needed to see! Thanks alot dude!

Good job bro. I watch 10 videos everyone use some metal and dont show what exactly the slide to remove handle ))) so your video is perfect!

Thank you for creating a clear and concise video. It was very well done and I found it very helpful.

Is there anyway to unlock the door manually by taking off the door panel and pulling up on the lock mechanism? Thank again for your help!

You know if you take the side rubber plug out you stick a screwdriver in the hole and off comes the handle.

Aww man i need to see the driver side lock removal!

Have a 2004 BMW 530i door latch actuator I am replacing, tech info I have says I will need a 51 2 190 tool for the pretension. Is this a required tool to do this job?

What if both front lock actuators aren't working? Could that be a control module? Is there a way to apply power directly to the lock and see if it works? Passenger door doesn't lock, the plunger just spring back up. The drive does using physical key lock.

Wasn't able to disconnect the batteries, will check the fuse. Tnx!

I have a 2001 model with air operation my door does not open from outside.

Excellent DIY video. Quick question, to test the door lock actuator wires, I need to test those three wires right? the blue, white and black. I think this actuators get negative trigger. Would you please confirm. And do you know which wire locks and which one unlock? if I need parts in the future I'll let you know. Thank you.

My door wont close in the morning when its cold. Any tips?

My situation appears to be a bad "actuator" on my right rear door. Unfortunately my door is closed and locked. The remote does not work other than the 'button" goes up and down and both interior and exterior handles are inoperative. I can not access through the panel because the door has to be OPEN to do so. What is your suggestion? Do you have a work around other than tearing the door panel off to access the mechanism? Is it possible to remove the panel with the door closed or is it possible to destroy the "actuator" physically being it's BAD so the door handles can operate? Many option few remedies that are workable.

Question: what if all doors lock by the key just fine. What if all doors open and close just fine. BUT!!! on the dashboard the Cluster shows all 4 doors open.? All windows wind down and roll back up with the key in the lock. Pls note the alarm system has been deactivated because of the reason that the dashboard shows all doors open when they are in fact CLOSED.

Hello at approx 7:44 mark you mention "exterior door handle works, interior handle does not work...need to replace this cable"...my problem, I've gotten to narrow it to this point. How do I replace that particular cable and what is it called and where can I order one....I'm not 100% sure...I will need to remove the "latching mechanism" but short of removing the latch, I just wasn't sure how til now. Thanks for your vid. :)

After replacing driver door actuator in order to confirm that it is working I had to trick the car into thinking the car is locked and with the console button I confirmed the new actuator was working.I connected the interior door handle and cable. Now I have an open door with the latch in the locked position. Door will not shut with the latch closed.

Also, how do you know if you need just the actuator or the whole lock mechanism?

Any tips on how to get the door open when it's stuck shut? Front driver side door will not open from inside or outside. I can hear lock and unlock sounds, thing goes up and down, but it won't release the door.

Hi! My e39 523i 1997 won't start after replacing front door driver side actuator and window lifter, disconnected all wires including airbag during replacement. There's just a continuous clicking sound with no crank, all electrical e.g. Window lifter, sound system sorry locks etc are working. Display on gauges are fine. Please help!

The issue that i am having is the lock is stuck in the locked position. Using the key to unlock the door will unlock all but the drivers door. You cannot even open the door from the inside. Will this fix in the video solve this problem?

Got the panel off while the door remains closed. Was able to reach in and disengage the Actuator plug and remove the actuator. Pulled the button up manually but the door does not open from the inside or OUT. Got a new actuator lined it up with the slot that engages the lock lever pushed the button down popped in the actuator, hit the remote the button went up and down but the door does NOT OPEN! Dumb de dumb dumb!!!! How do I get the lock mechanism to disengage without destroying my door or the quarter panel, there has to be a way? The only thing working with the actuator is the button goes up and down but the door refuses to OPEN. This is not good! What would you suggest at this point?