After years later this is very true. Thank you for the advice

I’m new to building what does topcoating in matte mean?

@@RebornRh it means spray on a clear coat paint that's satin

@@eatsleepplayrepeat Thank you! I just bought a can of topcoat flat spray is that good?

@@RebornRh depends on what it is as long as it's from a model paint brand you'll be fine

Thank you! And hopefully the video would help in your project!

Thank you so much! Glad it helped

Me too! 😊

Yay

Fully agree

Thank you :3

I hope to create more concise content, and thank you so much fro spreading them!

Glad it helped! I’ll be here to answer questions if there’s any

I understand most people don't have the time to sit around since and I didn't want to take people's precious time. Thank you very much for your compliment!

Really glad to hear that! However, this method is only if you're planning to remove the nub mark COMPLETELY. If you are planning to paint, then you can stop the sanding at 1000 grit, or if you plan to do a top coat, then 2000. Either way I hope your future projects will be fun!

No, thank you for taking your time watching my video!

I know most people don’t have the time, but glad mine was what you needed!

I’m glad it was helpful to you! And good luck with your projects :3

@@i.r.o.4456 thank you. I'm building a high grade mk ii next and then an iron blooded orphans under hunt kit

Glad it helped!

Glad you enjoyed!

I will need to update this tutorial since I’ve noticed this method is a bit out dated. However, if you’re using higher grit sanding material, then you should be fine since it won’t sand the surface too much. It’s only the initial sanding process you should be careful

Be careful with 400, 600, and 800. I usually only swipe 1 way only. This dude sanded the part like it was wood so the risk of oversand is higher

@@hoshi314 on that 1 swipe, how hard do you press it, gently or little hard?

@@afiqizwan5179 in my experience i press it a bit hard, that's why i swipe only one direction again and again with the same direction since i swipe it right in the stress mark. haven't tried swiping like i'm sanding wood though so i can be wrong entirely

@@hoshi314 silly question from a novice, when you make the final cut by nipper, is it better to cut as close to the part as possible and then start sanding with high grit (etc 1000) or is it better to leave a little bit of nub and try to sand it down gradually with sandpaper grit starting from somewhere between 400-600? or does it depend on the nipper? maybe godhand would suit the first choice better? sorry again for the long ass question

Thank you. Although I make these videos as a hobby and for people who are busy.

Thank you!

Thank you for your kind comment, and glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the kind comment!

Thank you :3

....aaaaand I just read the discription. Nevermind. ^^; But for the added effort of putting in the tools you used, you're getting a sub too.

Lol, and thank you for such kind comment!

Glad it helped!

Thank you! I understand most people just want the information and nothing more

Yep, that would be the easier way. Forever Gundam!

I'm glad it helped! Thank you for your kind comment

No, thank you for your kind comment!

Thank you! I like to keep it short and concise for you guys

Glad it was helpful!

I want to say that’s the lighting since I checked the part again to see how much it’s been sanded, and found it’s not as thin as shown in the video. So I’ll deserve a dislike for bad lighting and photo. To answer your question, unless you heavily sand the surface starting with very low grit, you can easily avoid the situation you mentioned. From 800 grit, it won’t sand too much of the surface to affect the curvature. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

@@i.r.o.4456 No need to apologise :) and certainly doesn't deserve a dislike, it's a very informative video!

Thank you for your very kind comment!

This method works for many kits, so you can try this for different one

I got really nice results using 3000 paper too

Fantastic! And it seems you have found. More efficient method to do the same. With it, have fun with your projects

You may but it will be harder since PC are rubber like.

Thank you! And will do!

Glad it was helpful!

I.R.O. i wish i had found this earlier 😥

Thank you for commenting! In my experience, there wouldn't be a difference of the sheen if you don't polish it to 2000 and above. However, you might notice smaller scratches on the surface if you don't polish it to 2000. So try it out on a random plastic spoon or something and see if the tiny scratches is noticeable enough to bother you. Good luck!

Thank you!

Your welcome!

Glad I helped, and good luck to your project!

Thank you, and it should not. As long as the grit is consistent you should get the same result.

Thank you! This video does show the extra step to get back to the original sheen, which I know many people asked since they didn’t want to top coat

If the flat files you have range from 400 to 2000 grit, then yes it does! The last step that does polishing, if you can find a flat file that uses 3000~8000 grit file, then you can also use those as well!

I.R.O. Thanks a lot

A nail sponge does wonders if you're looking for a cheap solution

Thank you for your kind comment!

I used your guide on my first kit and it turned out great, nubs completely gone! Is there anyway to getb rid of the micro scratches after? I was reading that others recommend a top coat

The micro scratches are usually the result of sanding that was a little rough. In those cases going even finer with polishing compound might help, but like you mentioned the other way is to apply top coat. Good luck!

That’s also great to know!

Somewhat true

Thank you for your kind comment!

The sanding paper you have is good! However, in the video I mentioned the sheen on the plastic will be little different if the surface haven’t been polished. Which is why I used extremely high sanding sponges like 8000 to get a similar sheen

Thank you!

Honestly you can skip most of the step and give a top coat.

Seems more efficient. Nice

Yes and no. Yes- the sanding grits between the two materials are the same, therefore even if you use two different products, you will still get the same result No- Sanding sponges are optimal for rounded surface, and sanding papers for flat surfaces. There are some products that allow you to vary the use between two surfaces, but the general differences are as such

In terms of sanding the surface, no. However, if you have a curved surface, then sponge sticks are more useful since it conforms to the shape, whereas paper sticks may flatten the surface if you're not careful

My video did poorly in that regard, but just sand the surface of the nub mark.

They shouldn’t make a difference from what I know. But do try again and let me know if it doesn’t work

Absolutely! And thank you for your kind comment

This is an old video now so you can have 1500 grit and it should be fine. After you sand with 1500 though, I recommend top coating to get an even finish

thank you?

I honestly never experienced that before. Usually there would be a white mark to show the plastic was stretched when the nub was cut. But Dark? Unfortunately I do not have the knowledge of what’s going on here

Usually at an angle I switch to a sanding paper, or use a thicker sanding block to do the job. Unfortunately I’m not too familiar with gunprimer raser nor the balancer

You could go to local hardware store that might sell sanding paper of various grit. You might need to look around if it’s not there, but hunting for supplies is fun!

That is indeed correct. As you mentioned, the visible nub marks are caused both due to stress applied to the gate while you’re cutting it and the blade not thin enough. Tools such as god hand helps a bit since unlike most clippers, it actually cuts the plastic rather than squeezing it. Which is why I sanded a lot in this video to sand the surface just enough to get rid of the visual stress mark left from cutting. Granted this video is few years old now, and there are other numerous efficient way I found that involves melting plastic and such. The 100% method is just paint over the plastic once the surface is smooth. So use this video only as a guidance, and hope you can find better ways than what I did here. Have a wonderful day!

For you, I'm currently editing the video that might help you with your project! I'm hoping to get it done by this Sunday

I.R.O. Thank you so much! Looking forward to it!

@@upsetkidpanda1869 I am so sorry it took so long. If you're still interested, then here is the video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gLaRpMZ_m7fbqXk.html

Knives are great alternative so you’re doing fine. If you start painting, then removing nubs become much easier

If you’re referring to the scratches on the surface, then yes. Unfortunately to polish the surface you will need to gradually increase the sanding grit to get a polished surface. If you’re referring to the whitened surface from sanding, then still yes where you will need to sand till 8000 or more grit to restore the plastic sheen. You can avoid going to extra step if you top coat the models Hope I answered your questions

Thank you very much, your answer helped tremendously!! Usually the scratches are little after sanding so I guess my sanding skills are improving😅. I think I’ll skip the 8000 grit and go for the top coat.

Very good!

For simplicity, up to 4 or five swipes. But I will say don’t worry about over sanding unless you’re using lower grit such as 400 or lower. Anything higher would actually sand less because it’s finer grit. Therefore you can sand with little worry. Hope this helps, and good luck!

@@i.r.o.4456 tremendous thank you 🤘

Yes. Although the process is very tedious, you can make the model look good without paint.

Ouch. And even more, I had the same mistake when I just started out so the pain is real. Hopefully it’ll turn out good!

@@i.r.o.4456 yeah felt like a real dumbass after attaching the two parts and was like "now they like look a buttcrack". Hahaha all part of the learning process I guess. Thanks for this tip

I habitually press a bit hard which might damage the plastic. However, once you reach 1000 grit you won’t be damaging the surface as much so I press harder from there

that........ is something I never thought or heard of Have you tried it? I'm curios to try it myself

Very understandable. Recently u would use wet disposable cloth to catch the particles or use wet sand papers. There’s also a product like a vacuum tray that can catch all dust particles while working.

@i.r.o.4456 Thank you for your nice comment.

You can use any clippers, and the sanding materials can be from any brand as long as the grits are similar

Yes. In fact, this method is one of the preferred method for clear or glass piece to get rid of nub marks since you’re repolishing clear pieces

The highest you wanna go is 8000~10000 grit so if you can find sponges or paper up to that, then any brand will be fine.

@@i.r.o.4456 Ok, will look into it. Thanks!

The ones I used are god hands which you might find a website that sells these items. If you’re just looking for sand papers with similar grit, then might find them at hardware stores or art stores in general.

I used sponge, but you can also use sanding paper as well. I was able to find some at local hardware store

Buffering is bring the surface closer to the original finish, or the plastic sheen. Therefore, you can skip the buffering process if you apply a top coat to unify the surface sheen

Indeed! But the method will differ, and there's two ways One is using a razor blade to remove the excess nub very carefully, and use from 1000 grit to polish the surface. If you still experience a smooth edge, then you use the razor blade to sharpen the edges by using the flat of the blade to scrape off the plastic.

@@i.r.o.4456 Genuis, thank you!

It I assume correctly, then that circle is the stress mark left from the nub. Usually you would have to sand down the surface to get rid of it. However, if you already flattened the surface already, then painting over it would be better than sanding the surface down. Overall let me know what you do and how it worked. Good luck

Hobby knife is super effective at removing nub marks, but it does require some precision and control. Which is why I use sanding paper because it offers consistent clean result for removing nub marks. The procedure, however, tends to get extremely grinding when you have to do it for dozens of parts. The fastest and easiest way would be to use a hobby knife to get a flat surface, and painting over that surface. Let me know how your experiment goes and what you found more efficient! Good luck, and have fun!

@@i.r.o.4456 I ended up buying Tamiya designer pro knife and will try it out with that one. I should invest into some good nippers but they are so expensive I'd rather buy 2-3 HG kits 😆

That is super understandable lol. Kits are more tempting choice

I was young back then. Now I know my lesson. Just paint :p

If you live in the states, then you can purchase them here newtypehq.com/products/god-hand-sanding-sponge

What about the Tamiya 1500 standing sponge??

Probably Amazon. I purchased mine at local hobby store though

Yes! But you may notice the surface might be slightly rough

This method is for people who don’t want to paint. If you’re painting, then 800 grit will be enough

I would say when you see less scratches with higher grit material. But it is also up to you to decide whether the surface have been sanded enough

Yes. As long as the grits are similar and fine

It should when you polish the surface with high grit, unless the surface were painted for those plastic

Unfortunately Also, the grits don’t need to be sponges. So if you have other tools with similar grits, then that works great! However, this video is old now and I found a better method, so I will be uploading that in the future. Basically polishing with a compound

So sorry. This video is quite old now but the easier method will be to sand till 1000 grit and just top coat it. Or you can melt a a plastic onto the nub, and etc. but the easiest method will be top coat

Lightly or medium. If you have a sanding sponge you can be rougher.

Painting the surface is the easiest way to get rid of nib marks. You can sand it off, but requires several grits of sanding paper to polish the surface to even if out

You can ask me here

@@i.r.o.4456 the nub mark is if the same as the piece itself nor is it a bit darker

I might need clarification, but there’s two types of nub marks. One from imperfect cut of the gate, where there’s some plastic left on the surface. Second is from stress mark on the plastic that whitens the plastic it was cut.

@@i.r.o.4456 so for example. If you let’s say blade the nub. Can’t you get it the same as sa don and filing? There’s always one that looks darker

This is interesting where I usually get white marks. Overall, you can get the same finish if you can cut the gate without putting stress on the plastic.

Oh absolutely not. This is only for people who wants to get rid of nub mark’s completely without painting. In fact, you can just use clippers to cut off the parts and be done with it if you’re not bothered by the nub marks. Or you can work till 800 grit sanding material and just paint over the surface

@@i.r.o.4456 thanks for reassuring me I’ll make sure to try my best with my first one which should be coming soon

Good luck, and hopefully it goes very well :3

Indeed you can!

It does get painful lol. And honestly if you’re painting the parts, then this video of mine is unnecessary for sure

Pretty much. If you decide to paint the surface, then you can stop around 800~2000 grit.

After years later, you can skip most of the step and just top coat the model. Hope that helps!

@@i.r.o.4456 I was not expecting a response but thank you for even taking the time to do so, ehe.

@chuunico I do reply late so sorry about that. But if you need anything else I am here to assist however I can within my skill range and knowledge

Sorry the picture wasn’t clear. It’s supposed to show the tiny nub mark on the side of the armor.

No no, any brand will work! And if the grit is close enough to what I used, then it works as well!

Ohh okay thanks a lot!

Yes, however you might notice the surface have different sheen on the plastic. You can apply a top coat to unify the surface too

@@i.r.o.4456 what is a top coat?

Something like flat, semi gloss, or gloss coat which you can apply on top of a surface with a spray to get a consistent sheen on the surface

Yes!

Black and red plastic tends to be very difficult in my experience as well. I’ve tried melting the plastic and sand it later, but all it did was destroy the parts :p

This is where Gundam markets might come in handy. Or using some of the runner itself, melted down with cement to rebuild the damage then sand it down again. Not sure though I'm struggling with this as wwll

honestly at this point just sanding and painting is much easier

Yes indeed! In fact, you can use any nippers for both cases. Having a sharper nipper would help decrease the visibility of the nub mark, making the process little easier.

@@i.r.o.4456 Thank you for such a quick response!

@@i.r.o.4456 Hello there! Me again. Does 3000 grit work well, in place of 4000?

@@ethanslusser3895 Yep!

I have never heard of those, but if they are alternative that you believe might work, go for it! The grit above 4000 can be replaced by anything else as long as the said replacement can restore the original plastic sheen

@@i.r.o.4456 hey so I just did a test w 400 and 1000, after the 1000 I used the balancer that I mentioned and it works. It has 2 sides of them so I used the side to polish it and it looks great 👍