Right! Thanks for watching!

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail will the reducer harm ceramic coat? I got over sprayed and my truck is ceramic coated. ....

@@toddfpacker6793 I am not sure you have much choice. If you polish a ceramic coating it will strip it. In detailing, you want to work from the finest measure possible first. I would try alcohol first, then wax and grease remover. If those don't work, step up to reducer, then Lacquer thinner. Ceramics aren't supposed to be effected by solvents as much, only abrasion. You could try a fine clay bar after a solvent clean, but use a fair amount of soap in a bucket of water and be careful. Ideally you want to stay away from clay and polishing.... Hope this helps and good luck!

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail Thanks for the reply. .. FML..... AWSOME VIDEO! ! ! !

Thanks for the kind words!!

Thanks for watching and the appreciation!

Thanks for the kind words and for watching!!

Thanks! It can definitely be a pain!

I am dealting with the same issue. This happened to me this weekend on my car, the shop was careless on wrapping my car, and now I'm dealing with overpray in certain parts of my car. Did you use just the clay, did you polish your car after claying it?

Thanks! I would start with alcohol. If that doesn't work, I would use wax and grease remover or a reducer. You could use a magic eraser with either one of these products to make it more aggressive. When switching to a solvent, try an inconspicuous spot, like on the underside of the flare, but wax and grease, reducer, or adhesive remover shouldn't damage the plastic. You may need to get fairly aggressive in order to remove the overspray, and since it is plastic and not paint, you could potentially dis-color or mar it. If this happens, you can use a vinyl die, which I can cover in a future video. One more thing to try would be some sort of clay, whether it be a clay bar, disc, mit, or pad. Let me know how it pans out or if you have any other questions! Kevin

Try rubbing alcohol first. If it is house paint, rubbing alcohol should work. Finest measure possible first, meaning try the least aggressive chemical before moving to more of an aggressive chemical.

Hey, Some of your results will depend on how you handle the situation. I would recommend following the instructions in the video. However, I will give you a recap. All clear coats are pretty much the same, but darker colors, especially black, magnify the condition of the clear coat. Keep in mind the rule of detailing, which would be using the finest measure possible first. It's a good idea to work as clean and methodical as you can to cut down on the chance of having to polish the vehicle afterward, but there is a chance you may have to anyway. Remember, the more you can rely on chemicals, the less you have to use abrasion to remove the contaminants. Here is what I recommend... Buy some white microfiber towels if possible. Then, thoroughly wash the car with a dawn dish soap mixture and water, and be somewhat generous to keep some lubricity. Maybe an ounce or so, per 5 gallon bucket. Next, dry the car and see how it feels. Most likely, you will need to start using chemicals. I would saturate a towel with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. You can use 90 percent as well, but be careful not to touch plastics such as headlights, tail lights, and black plastic trim.There is a potential you could melt the plastic. Slowly wipe over each panel and check your results. If this does not work, I would finish this step to remove what you can and start using a solvent such as a wax and grease or adhesive remover. Lacquer thinner will be the final product you could use if neither one of these will strip it. Buy a fine clay bar and mix a bucket with some laundry detergent and go panel by panel. This is shown in my other overspray video. A clay bar should remove whatever overspray is left. I always rely on my chemicals, especially with black, to cut down on the chance of having to polish. Needless to say, you may still need to polish. I'm not sure if you have ever polished a car, but now could be a good time to learn. If all these steps work, then wax your car, and you are done. If not, reach out again, and I will see what I can do to help! Thanks for watching! Kevin

Yes, black shows everything, that's for sure! I would try to remove everything I can with a solvent cleaner to try and minimize how much work you would need to do with a clay bar. Clay bars come in different grits, so I would start with fine and get more aggressive if need be. Make sure your car, bucket, and clay bar are clean. Use dawn dish soap and add a touch of laundry soap in a bucket. I would recommend using a microfiber towel to apply water to the surface. Work clean, take your time, and be gentle. This method will give you the best chance at not having to polish. Once you have finished, wash and dry the vehicle and inspect it. Most likely, the vehicle will need a light polish, but this will be a judgment call on your part, depending on your level of care and standards. If you have an orbital polisher, I would at least run over the vehicle quickly, as all the hard work has been done to prep the vehicle for polishing. Let me know if you have any other questions, and thanks for watching!

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail I really thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment. Today I bought lacquer thinner, and was feeling very brave about it, but I just couldn’t do it. I think I’m just going to wait and have a full one-step polish. Not to mention, I had already ordered a small polisher and a clay bar, but you are right it does comes off chemically because yesterday I tried with some alcohol very gently and it worked. What are your thoughts on using lacquer thinner?

@klachi7 You are very welcome! I am glad I can help! You could always go to a body shop supplier and buy some wax and grease remover. This product is similar to 3m adhesive remover as far as its level of aggressiveness and less aggressive than thinner. Being an ex painter, I have used Lacquer thinner for years, and I am comfortable with it. However, I would try a more mild solvent first, like the 2 mentioned above. As long as you have a newer car, it should have a catalyzed or hardened clear coat and be alright to use. I think all solvents in general, even alcohol can somewhat soften or change the structure of the clear coat. You can feel it under the rag when you are wiping. Obviously, the more you reduce the product or the less aggressive it is, the less damage it will cause. Follow the detail rule - finest measure possible first. Start with alcohol, step into wax and grease remover. From there you can try thinner or resort to striping it mechanically, such as a clay bar. Although going this route, most likely, you will need to polish the vehicle afterward. It's 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other type thing. Take this as a good learning lesson and see where it takes you. I am guessing you will learn a lot in the process and be glad you did in the end. It is very gratifying to become a good detailer. The transformations of some of the cars I do or have done always make me proud and happy! Good luck!!!

Start with a light solvent first. You could use a magic Eraser with the solvent as well. They work wonders on plastic!

Do you know what time of overspray it is? House paint or car paint?

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail it was house paint they were spraying a door

@@pattercuna82 have you tried denatured alcohol??

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail not yet but ill try that and i like to thank you for quick reply & the tip👍

@@pattercuna82 if that doesn't work, you may need to wetsand and polish the vehicle. It could be solvent based since they were spraying a front door...

Hey buddy! Can you clarify a little more? What type of vehicle? Front or rear? Can you include some pics? When you refer to the wheel arch, are you referring to the portion that leads into the quarter panel or the arch, meaning the black portion, which I would call a wheel well? I would pretty much follow the video and wipe inconspicuous spots first. Try your mild solvents first and get more aggressive as you go. Is the paint fairly fresh? Maybe give a reducer a shot, then work your way up to Lacquer thinner. You might have to wipe the area furthest away from the repair with a heavier solvent and use a lighter solvent as you get closer to your repair and try to blend it in. The heavier solvent will remove it quicker, but you may want to remove it slowly as you get close to your repair area, so you don't see a harsh transition.... Good luck, and let me know how it goes!

Thanks so much Kevin for your quick reply. I imagine you guys would call it the front fender maybe. I'm not sure how to send you a photo. It had rust spots around the edge above the front wheel which I filled and done a pretty good spray job on. The car is a 15yr old vw passat, light metalic blue in great condition only for the rust spots. This was the best colour match I could get owing to the age of the car.Unfortunately the paint is a slight shade darker and I sprayed about an inch too high over the lip onto original good paint. When you mention laquer thinners would that be the same as cellulose thinners? I'll watch your video over again and let you know if I can solve the problem. Many thanks bud. Great video👍

@bluboy349 Where are you from? Another country, I am assuming. Since the vehicle is light blue, it can be hard to match the paint. Not sure where you got the paint, but next time pick a lighter alternate or have whoever mixes it start by leaving out some black and what ever pigment turns the color blue, like a green shade blue or violet. You can always add some toner or pigment back. In my experience tinting colors, any light color a lot of times will have too much of anything that will darken or saturate the color with pigment. Since the vehicle is 15 years, it should have a hardened or catalyzed clear coat. In this case, you should be able to use a harsh solvent such as reducer or Lacquer thinner. You could also lightly wetsand the overspray and polish it back with a rubbing compound. You will just need to play around with some techniques and see what works best. Start with the least invasive method first and good luck!

Thankyou Kevin for all your help and knowlege on the subject, l love this old car. I get many comments on how well it looks for it's age. I will experiment and see what happens and send a few snaps when I find out how🤣 I'm Pete from Belfast N.I. Will let you know how I get on.👍

@bluboy349 Hey Pete! It's amazing you are watching from Ireland! It's awesome to have a neat car like that! Good luck, take your time, I am sure it will come out nice! It's not about the problem, but finding solutions!

It could, you could solvent wipe it first. You could also use glass cleaner or soapy water and a single edge razor blade. A clay bar and or 4 ot steel wool would do the trick as well....

Razor blade

Have you tried solvent wiping the car?

@Auto Corrections Paint Detail Tips and Tricks no..I've only tried everything I have used before. way too afraid to melt through the clear with acids and solvents

@@stephenlouden480 don't be afraid to use alcohol, then follow with a solvent wipe, whether it be wax and grease or Lacquer thinner. You are better off trying to remove it without abrasion. As long as the clear is hardened, you will be fine. Start with wax and grease. Trust me, this is how I strip every car before I polish and have for many years....

@@adrianawilks8171 you don't have to, but this step will ensure that you remove most of the contaminates. It is always a good practice.

Should be fine, most carbon fiber parts are clear coated. Try the finest measure possible first in an inconspicuous spot...

@@autocorrectionspaintanddetail so my problem is I’ve had the hood for 2 years and it took on extreme heat in the desert and started getting sun damage and hazy. I wet sanded it and clear coated it but it got crazy overspray. I then wet sanded it again and tried polishing but it’s still there pretty bad. I now bought “acetone” and it works to an extent. I don’t know if I should just completely sand it down again and re do the clear coat or just keep going with the acetone.

@@dwad9162 If the acetone is working then I would stick with it, but it may be faster and the job might turn out better if you clear coat again....

You removed your clear coat

@@RevengeAvenger no! The overspray is on top of an already clear coated panel. So you basically remove oversprayed paint which is on top of a clear coat. You can’t remove clear coat with a nail polish remover. The moment you remove the paint, dilute with water

Nail polish remover is the same as Acetone. Acetone will readily remove your automotive paint.

@@mikkylemikkyle5387 yeah only to use it when there is a clear coat on top. If paint sits on a top of clear coat, it will protect the original paint job