So if you do the way you described does it remove the rust And then coat with a thin layer of magnatite that bonds to it and prevents rust without having to paint it? Also will that work if I use vinegar instead of citric acid and then neutralize it with the baking soda as you said going beyond neutral ph7 to ph9? How long in ph9? Then what, just rinse in water and you're done?

@@user-tf8mi3nt6j Yes, you can use vinegar instead of citric acid. And you can also use regular RealLemon juice to supply the citric acid. RealLemon is around 4 % citric acid. And when you neutralize it with the baking soda, you will need to go a little slowly as it is going to foam and fizz a little bit. As I said warm is better than room temperature, but not so hot you cannot touch it. Allow the baking soda to dissolve and sit for a couple of hours with a little stirring occasionally. Once the black iron magnetite is formed, you can simply reach in and remove the tool, throw out the solution and just rinse in normal water from the tap. Dry it and apply a light oil to prevent rust back For tools that you want to have that burnished look and still show their age but without that red / orange rust color you can also do a bit of extra iron to assist in forming that layer. Just clean a small piece of steel wool with paint thinner and dry the steel wool well. Put it in the bowl with the tool you are working on. When at the final stage with the baking soda, take the steel wool and rub the finish together with the tool gently to assist in transferring the magnetite to the tool. Then after the tool is rinsed, dried, and oiled take the steel wool, add oil, and gently burnish the tool surfaces. Keep up the work on saving these old tools. I find them much better quality than you can get new.

@@lpconserv6074 Thanks for your time and advice 👍

pro trick : you can watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching all kinds of movies during the lockdown.

@Kenneth Dexter definitely, been watching on Flixzone for since november myself :)

pb blaster and elbow grease with a wire brush and drill. even better.

@@Ziggy_Wolf and don’t forget vinegar method

Not too strong or you'll dissolve it lol

@@YouFellForTheBait WD-40 is neither a true lubricant nor a penetrating oil. It's kerosene-based and more of a cleaner and rust-inhibitor. I use WD-40 on my electric hedge clipper blades to lightly lubricate and inhibit rust. It also works great for keyed lock cylinders although purists may suggest powdered graphite for that purpose. Thank you.

I must admit that I'm a dickhead, but I'm not that dickhead.

For electrical contacts better use WD-40 and a brass brush, clean the contacts gently 😉

Find new freinds. Lol

Hey is that water in it or vinegar that is to be added after citric acid

@@richardcraniumdicksinn3959 well it's not your fault completely he should of ask for em sooner

Canola oil its food safe non stick non toxic and has high heat resistance and its cheaper than mm i heard its a popular alternative to bar and chain oil on chainsaws i tried it seems to work great 👍 only canola not vegetable or olive do not mix in gas only for chain lube.

In my experience (and I just did this earlier today), start with a mix of vinegar and salt, it works much faster. But all the more reason to neutralize the reaction with baking soda... The vinegar/salt reaction might only take a few hours or so, but you absolutely have to neutralize it with baking soda. During the reactions, occasionally brush the metals off of course. But afterwards, make sure to neutralize as stated. Then use anything except WD-40, that's not considered a proper long term oil. I use 3-in-1 oil as an initial preservative oil.

Yeah any acidic substance will do, the more acid the quicker it'll be. It's not rocket science.

Made me horny!

@@Blacktop_Rabinowitz ayooooooooo😳😳😳😳😳😳

Lots of tools on KZfaq ✌

To neutralize the acid

Alco Power Don't you have to bake them afterwards at 400 deg. for a couple of hours. I've heard that this process infuses hydrogen which makes the metal weak.

@@tenkill .......I have not heard this or done this. Have not had any issues in regards to breakage or metal fatigue.

@@alcopower5710 thanks!

Vinegar, baking soda, etc.

I was thinking the same thing. I've got some barbell weight plates, I think I'd put them in a bucket with hydrochloric acid. The only thing I'm worried about is the acid is a corrosive. Therefore they'd rust up again within minutes.

@@markopolo3435: So we have a vicious cycle : ) I think if we can go immediately from acid to a water-rinse, then blow dry with compressed air, you would have only the faintest trace of rust... just a little orange color, but nothing like crusty scale. I have a few rusty files (decades-old American-made), guess I need to try it. Of course, with something like weights, the best option would be to sandblast... something I'll be prepping to do tomorrow, in fact. But that just won't work on files : ) Another option: Check out "AGS RUST SOLUTIONS Rust Paint" on Amazon... I'll probably be trying that on my truck frame, etc.

@@markopolo3435: And here you go; I've found people using sulphuric and muriatic (one guy says "muriatic acid is a 40% concentrate of hydrochloric acid") kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m9V5krOQvrzMm30.html

@@lordofthewoods i just did the job, like you described it. I used warm water with washing detergent instead plain water. Minor wire brushing with the acid. Job looks great. Planing on painting tomorrow, I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

@@markopolo3435: Alright! Though you may want to weigh and re-mark the weights : )

citric acid is found in oranges, limes, lemons, etc.

@@YR7A ok

😁 funny... anyways, everything is "chemical" 😉

Mi cuenta para foros y cosas THANK YOU!! omfg

@@micuentaparaforosycosas3484 unless it's a laser, but I don't think anybody's shelling out for photon-based rust removal for a pair of Kleins

Yes, the crystals don't dissolve in cold water

😂🤣 are u trying to kill the guy ??

@@princevinny0073 With what exactly, dumbass.

@@Zgmflegend 🙂😊 is rusty tools probly bad that the rust get on ur hands maby they can go inside ur nails 😥

Hmmm. Maybe he has some cuts on his left hand?…Maybe?

@@richardsilva-spokane3436 So it will sting for 10 sec. People think this is plutonium or something....

That will be in a follow up video (20 minutes long) showing how to pour it out of the pan in the grass.

What was the solution ratio? How much citric acid? How much water?

@@douglaslopshire699 and how much baking soda with how much water. And what was that spray. What did you use to prevent it from re- rusting? Too many unanswered questions.

Best thing to do, is to keep it for the next time you need it. That not being the case you can neutralize it with baking soda or pretty much anything alkaline. Concrete powder comes to mind as another cheap and easy solution. Better yet is to use it on a hot and dry day to kill weeds. It's extremely effective. Do it on a rainy/moist day and the weeds will laugh at you. LOL 😂

Anywhere..... it's not radioactive plutonium, numbnuts.

i watch another person do that.. Yes .. Vinegar + salt ..but they keep in the solution for 5 days, it clean pretty well

You need to know the concentration of the acid... squeezing lemons could be for the brass pieces of the stove... and I tried and it's not enough really.

Is that water hot or cool

@@ronaldemel530 since chemical reactions are accelerated by heat it would be a good idea to use hot water even if he didn't.

Yeah won't affect it.

I fixed my rusty motorcycle tank using a 10% citric acid solution, hot water, 24 hours. Didn't do any harm to the paint, aluminum or rubber seals.

That is relevant how? The title says remove rust in 2 hr time lapse... nothing about chemical less.

@@rebeccaofsunnybrookefarm8469 Directly from the description - that you apparently did not read: "In this video I will show how to quickly clean the tool from rust at home! *Without chemical* additives! "

@@ABaumstumpf clearly there is a difference between harsh chemicals and chemicals... vinegar is a chemical as is citric acid. Please excuse your rudeness.. clearly I'm differently educated.

@@rebeccaofsunnybrookefarm8469 "clearly there is a difference between harsh chemicals and chemicals" Well yes, but that is not what he said in the description - sooooo.... "clearly I'm differently educated." i sadly can only agree as you clearly did not read/comprehend even just 2 sentences.

Thanks for the info. That's very inexpensive compared to top name brand chemicals.

@@seanwhitman799 one additional tidbit. My wife delegated me to chief shower washer some time ago. Since then I've spent countless $ trying to control soap scum. Turns out all my efforts to find that perfect cleaner were in vain. At least until I found out I could take a left over foam type squirt bottle filled with whit vinegar and clean just about anything. Citric acid is the major component in most cleaners like Purple Power, vroom and several others. Like wise vinegar can be used in low of products like lime away, CLR and similar products. Good luck.

Regular white vinegar works good but it needs an overnight soaking. After cleaning the object, I use wd40 on it to keep moisture away.

@@rodbutler8069 me too:)

not expensive...try it

It would 👍

try boiling the parts for an hour to turn the oxide black, buff it off, and put penetrating oil in any hinges

@@AlanGriffith thats a blueing process

@Paul Vasso Thanks.

A GOOD pair of these is $50; if these are $8 Chinese, then your point is well taken

No, it needs to be hot to dissolve the crystals

cut backs H

Keeps the brush from scratching against bare skin

Heat3YT2 Michael Jackson fan. Probably.

I didn't until it was in the container

once you go black you wont go back.