Is Electrolysis Better Than Acid For Removing Rust? Let's find out!

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AJ Restorations

AJ Restorations

2 жыл бұрын

So many viewers would like to see the acid VS Electrolysis instead of the entire restoration, so I decided to make a short video with just that.
I hope you enjoy the video.
If you have any suggestions for improvement, or compliments share them below!
Please leave a like if you did like the video, please subscribe and feel free to comment your thoughts and as always thank you for watching.
Thanks to all the channel members.
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WHAT IS ELECTROLYSIS?
Electrolysis removes rust from metallic objects. During electrolysis, an electrical current will flow through a liquid, such as a molten ionic compound or aqueous solution. Atoms are rearranged, causing irreversible changes in chemical composition.
Adding conductors, often in the form of copper wire (which has a higher melting point), to the liquid and connecting the conductors to a power supply creates an electrical current.
Electrons in a metallic structure flow towards the positive terminal of the power supply. This causes one of the electrodes (conductors) to become positively charged and the other to become negatively charged. The positive ions (cations) in the liquid attract to the negative electrode and the negative ions (anions) are attracted to the positive electrode. At this stage electron exchange occurs, creating a chemical reaction.
THE PROCESS OF REMOVING RUST USING ELECTROLYSIS
Please take great care if you attempt to remove rust from an object via electrolysis.
To remove rust by electrolysis you will require:
A large plastic tub or container
Battery charger
Your rusty object
A piece of steel
Water
Sodium carbonate substance.
ACID FOR REMOVING RUST.
How Do Strong Acids Work for Industrial Rust Removal?
Strong acids and strong alkalis can remove rust quickly, however, these caustic chemicals pose many health and safety risks and require that the user observe strict safety precautions. Strong acids will dissolve rust, but they will also dissolve paint, finishes, and sometimes even the metal itself. Hydrochloric acid (which is also called muriatic acid in its diluted form), as well as phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, may be used in rust removal formulas using strong acids. These are mineral acids, and they are highly corrosive, especially in concentrated forms. Strong alkalis work in a similar way, but on the opposite end of the pH spectrum.
Strong acids work by dissolving rust. Many acid-based rust removal products are gel formulations. Once applied, if the gel remains on the metal too long, it will start to dissolve it, causing pitting. While mineral acids clean away the outer layer of rust, they also put the underlying metal in a reactive state, making it susceptible to “flash rusting” unless it is otherwise sealed or neutralized.
Are Strong Acids Safe for Removing Rust?
Even when mineral acids are diluted in water or other substances, they are dangerous to work with and can severely damage skin, irritate the lungs, and cause other health problems without proper safety precautions. These chemicals are corrosive and toxic, so they must be disposed of safely, especially in large amounts.
Industrial rust removal products containing strong acids may be ideal for serious rust problems that must be resolved quickly. However, these products must be carefully monitored and safety precautions carefully followed. Proper ventilation, safety goggles, gloves, and careful application are essential to keeping users protected.
How Do Weak Acids Work for Industrial Rust Removal?
Despite their name, a weak acid does not mean a weak reaction. Since weak acids occur naturally in the environment, they are far less toxic than the mineral acids listed above. There are a variety of weak acids that will react with rust and remove it, and each one works a bit differently. Tannic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, and Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), can all be used as an industrial rust remover. These acids naturally occur in nuts, vegetables, and fruits, or are used as an additive in medicines and foods.
Weak acids utilize a process similar to strong acids, except their reaction is more gradual and less volatile. Though weak acids can still be harmful in concentrated forms, they are nowhere near as dangerous as mineral acids. Industrial rust removers using weak acids are typically found in bath or gel formulations.
Are Weak Acids Safe for Removing Rust?
Weak acids-like oxalic acid-can be hazardous in a highly concentrated form, but they are naturally occurring and carbon-based, so they are less toxic and less corrosive than mineral acids. Even so, caution is required when working with weak acids as they still present safety issues both for humans and the environment. Since the chemical process differs from mineral acids, oxalic acid, and other weak acids lower the risk of metal flash rusting, however, it is still a risk.

Пікірлер: 1 000
@kanishka.b8550
@kanishka.b8550 2 жыл бұрын
Followed numerous guides and projects done using electrolysis. Acid is acid. They dissolve the rust and expose the bare metal and there can be some noticeble material lose if the rusting is severe. Electrolysis process works more by converting the oxides back in to iron partially. Low voltage low current will facilitate this convertion more. So electrolysis is prefered in restorative work if the damage is severe and material lose should be minimized. Hope this helped. If anyone need more info, do some digging. You will find a lot on the subject. Cheers.
@heyjohnsmith
@heyjohnsmith 2 жыл бұрын
Damn never really thought about coverting the oxides back to their metal. Chemically seems possible, but never knew electrolysis does this. Thanks for sharing this cool info.
@kanishka.b8550
@kanishka.b8550 2 жыл бұрын
@@heyjohnsmith yep! It’s different from normal electrolysis process even there’s some gas formation happening. That’s the reason it’s adviced to use low current and low voltage for long duration to allow newly reclaimed iron to be deposited firmly, otherwise it’ll form a crustly layer that would easily peel off. If you really need to get rid of all the crustyness electrolysis would not be a good way, but it will preserve your part. Cheers.!
@MikeSmith-vb8ul
@MikeSmith-vb8ul 2 жыл бұрын
You can also use graphite anodes instead of sacrificial metals and with low currents to keep them alive longer as well. And also it's recommended to use more soluble salts like sodium hydroxide or carbonate, to reduce the resistance of the water solution and improve electrolytic efficiency per kWh.....
@MegaBrokenstar
@MegaBrokenstar 2 жыл бұрын
@@MikeSmith-vb8ul you need the sacrificial iron in the anodes to move the oxygen in the rust to. It won’t just dissolve into the water, that would create an electrical imbalance. If something is reduced, something else must be oxidized.
@MisterRorschach90
@MisterRorschach90 2 жыл бұрын
@@MikeSmith-vb8ul I’ve never met a mike smith I could trust. Lol
@blackraven8805
@blackraven8805 2 жыл бұрын
Even CLEANING vinegar works great although slowly and less dangerous than other acids. With the added advantage of letting you check and control the process being much cleaner.
@chuckfinley6747
@chuckfinley6747 2 жыл бұрын
That’s what I use. Works great and is a lot safer.
@joewoodchuck3824
@joewoodchuck3824 2 жыл бұрын
For tools with moving parts as well? I'm thinking adjustable wrenches here. How much time for vinegar?
@oksandro29
@oksandro29 2 жыл бұрын
I'll try the acid with a ongoing project.
@blackraven8805
@blackraven8805 2 жыл бұрын
@@joewoodchuck3824 Yes also for tools with moving parts. Then WD40 in the joints and back to work. I rarely dissasemble a tool, no need. I want them to work, not to shine. No showoff XD. Good luck.
@blackraven8805
@blackraven8805 2 жыл бұрын
@@joewoodchuck3824 24 or 48 hs. Usually 24 hs is enough. In some cases there's left black oxide which is a good look for an old tool. A tiny bit of wax and that's all a good old tool needs if it is in working conditions.
@timothym2241
@timothym2241 2 жыл бұрын
The electrolysis process will clean as well as the acid, but it takes much more time, and relies on the proximity of the positive electrodes to the surface to be cleaned. Unlike acid, it is gentle on thin materials, and won’t remove engravings or other delicate details.
@Jack_Sparrow17
@Jack_Sparrow17 2 жыл бұрын
Electrolysis process is much faster, than acid. You need much more ampers. I usually use 160A.
@timothym2241
@timothym2241 2 жыл бұрын
@@Jack_Sparrow17 how do you know you are getting that amount of current flowing? What voltage? What area of electrode?
@Jack_Sparrow17
@Jack_Sparrow17 2 жыл бұрын
@@timothym2241 i use invertor for welding and big stainless steel pot for 30 liters.
@timothym2241
@timothym2241 2 жыл бұрын
@@Jack_Sparrow17 As in a constant current welding power supply, such as used for stick or tig? I once built a salt water resistor for testing a Synchrowave 250 welder, and it was 5 gallons of water with salt dissolved in it to make it very conductive. Dumping thousands of watts of energy into it, resulted in 5 gallons of boiling water in just a few minutes. I’m wondering if your are setting your welder to 160 amps, but that is just the current limit, and not the actual current that flows. 160 amps times say 40 volts would be 6400 watts. That would boil the 30 litres in no time. What kind of objects were you cleaning? How much surface area were the iron electrodes?
@hautehussey
@hautehussey 2 жыл бұрын
@@Jack_Sparrow17 don’t use stainless steel. You’ll be producing harmful pollutants.
@aGuyWithConscience
@aGuyWithConscience 2 жыл бұрын
In electrolysis, how much rust is removed depends on 2 factors - current and time. In acid, type of acid, concentration and time. One can control the amount of curren and time by electrolysis to get the same result as by acid.
@amanawolf9166
@amanawolf9166 2 жыл бұрын
Eeyup. When I'm doing work, I prefer to use low grade acid like kitchen strength vinegar. If I'm cleaning something that has heavy mineral deposits or I'm not super concerned about quality, I'll go 35% Muriatic acid and do a 50/50 mix of it with water. The acid does the job well, but it has to be done with caution because it can easily damage what you're trying to fix. Even the vinegar method can be problematic because what you're trying to fix can start to oxidize again. I restored some files with Vinegar and had to be careful/quick about it cause some started to rust. It was a pain, but the vinegar did the trick.
@dragonmeddler2152
@dragonmeddler2152 2 жыл бұрын
...and when the job is done you'll either have a couple gallons of polluted and highly corrosive waste liquid or a couple gallons of dirty water with some soda bicarb in it. You choose...
@yourbuddyunit
@yourbuddyunit 2 жыл бұрын
@@dragonmeddler2152 criminally underrated comment ☝🏾
@myouniverse0613
@myouniverse0613 2 жыл бұрын
@@dragonmeddler2152 Fair point.
@apocratos0174
@apocratos0174 2 жыл бұрын
@@dragonmeddler2152 great insight!!
@lpconserv6074
@lpconserv6074 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, the acid is the preferred method according to the major power and refinery boiler operations people. I have been in the business of cleaning the iron / steel boiler insides for about 25 years, and it is the standard method. The more typical acid used is Citric Acid, or in nature, Lemon juice. The lemon juice is typically around 5% and the normal cleaning solutions are around 3.5% based a lot on costs involved when dealing with boiler volumes that can approach 100,000 gallons. As a reference, the process is called Citrisolv and is done on almost all boilers as a routine on a periodic basis. There are other methods, but they involve more difficult acids to work with. The amount of iron is controlled well if the citric method is used as it has an iron limit on how much it can hold. So it is pretty safe. And can be neutralized with great effect in small operations as you use with regular household ammonia. That process will leave you with a nice gun metal black/blue steel or iron that has the iron converted to a non-rusting type, similar to the look you get when you carbon season your parts. And you can still carbon season just as with your blasting methods without worry. Nothing but lemonade and a household cleaner would be needed. Great video techniques on your channel. I do enjoy the way you lay out all the parts to see what the items look like in exploded parts array. Very helpful to let us follow your methods. Keep up the great work.
@krystal1722
@krystal1722 2 жыл бұрын
Do you think Citric Acid would work on a rusting coil bed spring frame? I got an antique bed, but the coil spring that's attached to the bed frame is rusting; I think it's steel. Anyway, it's too large to actually submerge it, but your comment gave me hope that if I sprayed it I could begin to salvage it. Thank you for your time.
@lpconserv6074
@lpconserv6074 2 жыл бұрын
@@krystal1722 As AJ Restorations does, it sometimes is best to submerge. However, unless in an industrial setting, it is almost impossible to do so. For a spray on technique, I don't think you could get it done with citric acid, it is simply too mild and takes heat and time. For a spray technique, you also need something not so hazardous, as it may put the chemical, which ever one you choose, into fine droplets in the air. So many of the processes commonly used would be prohibitively dangerous in a home shop setting. I suggest you look online for a rust converter type system. Evaporust (www.evapo-rust.com/) may be your best and safest solution. It is proprietary chemistry as I can see from the MSDS sheet, but I believe it to be a phosphoric acid based system, with other binding chemistry added. Phosphoric acid is one of the acids in Coke, so a bit acid but not harmful in small quantities and incidental contact. Please note, when AJ did the treatment, how beautiful the iron finish was on the interior of the pan.. That is because the acid used converted the orange version of rust back to a black version of "rust" and it deposits back onto the iron as a hardened layer. This is the same process as with Phosphoric acid as well. So it doesn't always 'remove' the rust, although some of it does get removed and put into the liquid solution, some also goes back onto the metal it came from. AJ's methods are precise. They are very well suited to home environmental uses as they do not require heat. In the industrial side, and in typical chemistry fashion, higher temperatures speeds things up. But they are also more dangerous and difficult to control. In the chemistry texts you will find that time and temperature are often interchangeable so if cold, you will simply need more time, usually a LOT more time. But where we typically do things in a few hours, if cold it would take a few days. And at home that is an acceptable trade off.
@krystal1722
@krystal1722 2 жыл бұрын
@@lpconserv6074 Thank you so much for your insightful response!
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you LP! Those are some in depth answers you got there. I appreciate it.
@lpconserv6074
@lpconserv6074 2 жыл бұрын
@@AJRestoration I don't have the patience nor the skill set you posses, so I do what I can with the specialties I do know a bit about. Always glad to assist if I can...
@abushams3336
@abushams3336 2 жыл бұрын
Little detail that may have influenced your experiment .. this was an old skillet , skillets have old fat on their surface, and in the 'pores' of the metal , fat is non conductive , AND : Fat dissolves in acid , so the 'rust remover 'is also removing the fat that is a handicap for its opponent .. I would call this skillet an unlevel playing field that advantages the acid
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
You might be correct. But it gives people a good idea on what to expect if they want to try and clean or restore something similar.
@ToreDL87
@ToreDL87 2 жыл бұрын
While I agree, cleaning something through a dozen different processes before you even set up for electrolysis takes time a lot of people might not have.
@k.k.a
@k.k.a 2 жыл бұрын
If we did cool stuff like this in school, I would actually remember what electrolysis is.
@ianboard544
@ianboard544 2 жыл бұрын
My favorite is still white vinegar - dirt cheap, gentle, effective, won't ruin things if you forget about them for a day or two. Degrease thoroughly with something like acetone beforehand though.
@scubasteve6175
@scubasteve6175 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, however in circumstance where the rusting is severe, electrolysis acts to convert the oxidized material back to the original. So when you do this in bad cases you won't lose material from the the object in question.
@happenstancially4132
@happenstancially4132 2 жыл бұрын
Just for reference, from within the food industry, the only FDA approved way to remove rust in any form is a mild muriatic acid.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Noted, Ill have to give it a try.
@DTB3378
@DTB3378 2 жыл бұрын
The FDA is a joke lol you should google the history of the FDA and learn about all the things they approved that turned out to be terrible in the future. Cataract removal being one of them
@krashd
@krashd 2 жыл бұрын
@@DTB3378 Very few institutions exclusively make good decisions.
@extractedentertainment8213
@extractedentertainment8213 2 жыл бұрын
@@krashd No one was arguing that, but the amount of times they’ve been wrong is staggering and makes referencing anything they approve a running joke.
@reesecollins482
@reesecollins482 2 жыл бұрын
@@extractedentertainment8213 didnt the FDA also say that cigarettes are healthy for you and fat not sugar gives you hear diseases? They are evil
@davidhorsley1149
@davidhorsley1149 2 жыл бұрын
The only problem with your choice of acid is that muriatic acid, which is the industrial name for impure hydrochloric acid, will continue to degrade iron and steel unless it is absolutely totally neutralized. Which generally involves an extended soak in a strong base. Hydrochloric acid is sometimes referred to as "fuming hydrochloric acid" and even the fumes can cause iron or steel to disintegrate by oxidizing the metal to dust.
@davidhorsley1149
@davidhorsley1149 2 жыл бұрын
Also, the best acid for cleaning ferrous metals is phosphoric acid. It is available in different concentrations specifically for the purposes of cleaning iron and steel. One concentration is sold under the name "Ospho", another strength is sold as brand name "metal conditioner". Generally stronger concentrations are use to create the "blued" finish on firearms. And most new steel is sold with a phosphate coating imparted to the metal by subjecting it to a phosphoric acid bath at the end of production.
@camisricon
@camisricon 2 жыл бұрын
@@davidhorsley1149 Indeed phosphoric acid is a better choice as hydrochloric acid does not only dissolve the rust but it is also able to dissolve the metal. Hydrochloric acid is often used to etch a metallic surface in order to roughen it up. The roughened metal surface may look nicer in this case as the rust was removed more thoroughly (by also dissolving some metal below) but it will form rust quicker again as the now rougher surface is larger than before and thus has a larger contact area to air/humidity. Therefore, washing with a strong base is not only needed to neutralize left over acid to stop further corrision, but also to "passivate" the surface, as a closed oxidic layer is formed in alkaline media, which shields the metal from humidity/water. This oxidic layer will consist of iron oxide (when the metal is iron) and funnily, rust is also iron oxide. Thus, it can be a foe or a friend :)
@mariotomazzoni6523
@mariotomazzoni6523 2 жыл бұрын
@@davidhorsley1149 comercial solutions for derusting also contain organic inhibitors to prevent / reduce the attack on the base material after the rust is removed.
@Ham549
@Ham549 Жыл бұрын
I've heard hydrochloric acid actually prevents rust by making a layer of iron chloride I've also heard it will cause a metal to rust faster so I'm getting mixed messages here.
@RitzSamaritano
@RitzSamaritano 2 жыл бұрын
Good comparison, thanks for the video. I have a few observations. During the 3 hours with acid the pan section you treated with electrolysis started to rust again because it was wet iron left in open air, it should be better to spray it with some oil to prevent this rusting. The acid treatment is much more aggressive (specially with hydrochloric acid compared to some weaker one such citric acid) that's why you had a smoother surface. This is ok for a bulky iron pan, but for thinner parts I prefer electrolysis to prevent damage to the part.
@josemaripalomo9827
@josemaripalomo9827 2 жыл бұрын
You are right, during the 3 hours with acid, the other part rust again, but I think it is not because of that, when the acid reacts whit the oxide, it gives off gases that rust again the frying pan. I think this, because it happens to me when I used vinegar.
@faizalaziz4796
@faizalaziz4796 2 жыл бұрын
well guys. rusting doesn't enough just in order of hours. also cleaning with correct acid doesn't produce gas that makes the other part rusting. the acid dissolves iron oxide forming iron salts and water. if you get another part rusting while cleaning with acid, then you chose the wrong acid which has oxidizing properties such as nitric or sulfuric acid. especially only vinegar (acetic acid). basically the product will be iron acetate and water, no gas.
@boots7859
@boots7859 2 жыл бұрын
@@faizalaziz4796 Stay in school son. Go lookup flash rusting. And check off-gasing while you're at it.
@vermillionreaper
@vermillionreaper 2 жыл бұрын
yes, this is why i was like: this video didn't prove anything at the end
@MT-qt3mk
@MT-qt3mk 2 жыл бұрын
The gas you guys are thinking about should not really be anything other than Oxygen or Hydrogen
@deanodivers5822
@deanodivers5822 2 жыл бұрын
I really appreciate the succinct delivery of info I have not yet actually put paint to canvas. Ive been studying too much and it becomes more clear watching you put paint to canvas. Thank you
@Proton_N
@Proton_N 2 жыл бұрын
I work in a factory that galvanizes wire. We use electrolysis in a heated 10% solution of sulfuric acid. We use 3-4V and around 200A. It deals with rust in a matter seconds. It's pretty nasty though.
@kyotoguitar6463
@kyotoguitar6463 2 жыл бұрын
200A is pretty dangerous "Don't try at home" stuff, children
@falco447
@falco447 2 жыл бұрын
@@kyotoguitar6463 No it's NOT. You obviously don't understand electricity. 200A is not any more dangerous than 200 Volts or even thousands of Volts are on their own (with low Amps). 3-4 V are FAR AWAY from being able to penetrate your skin resistance. So NEVER would those 200A flow through your body. For this you would need much higher voltage. Don't be scared by numbers. Instead UNDERSTAND the physics behind it. Voltage is like pressure (psi), while Ampere is like flow (gallons per minute). So if not enough pressure -> simply no flow. And if not enough flow -> simply no harm by high pressure. It's only BOTH TOGETHER that can kill you.
@poodle5421
@poodle5421 2 жыл бұрын
@@falco447 damn pretty aggressive but im learning current electricity rn and that was a pretty amazing analogy, ty fam
@ionic7777
@ionic7777 2 жыл бұрын
That’s a really small amount of Ohms (although I’m not sure what is considered normal since electrical science is the one type of science I have trouble learning about)
@falco447
@falco447 2 жыл бұрын
@@poodle5421 Might have to do with where I am from. I lived in the US but pretty quickly forget to temper my German directness.
@robertdieder4178
@robertdieder4178 2 жыл бұрын
Electrolysis needs a bit more time but the nice thing is that there are no ill effects if there are mixed metals. The safest method i've found is using and submerging in molasses to remove and stabilize rust. However it is very time intensive.
@IshanVerma999
@IshanVerma999 2 жыл бұрын
Quality content. No BS. Straight to the point.
@YukonHawk1
@YukonHawk1 Жыл бұрын
I love your videos.. So satisfying to watch when things are restored and look brand new. So relaxing to watch. Thanks so much for sharing your craft.
@PapiDoesIt
@PapiDoesIt 2 жыл бұрын
I used a pickle barrel and angle iron to remove rust from engine blocks and cylinder heads with electrolysis. Took a few days but it worked well.
@riccardofabbri1110
@riccardofabbri1110 2 жыл бұрын
The good thing about electrolysis is that you reduce the iron in irox oxide/hydroxide back to the metal form, virtually whitout too much loss. When treating rusted iron with acid on the other hand only strips out the oxide/hydroxide just by making it water soluble and eventually exposing more fresh metal to corrosion. If performed with the correct voltage and a suitable electrolite as long the correct anode rod, electrolysis could be a good method.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
For the full restoration, please follow the link kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mZZpp8iJlcjeiY0.html
@monadamus42
@monadamus42 2 жыл бұрын
That was so cool! Thank you for sharing that!
@swoops223
@swoops223 2 жыл бұрын
As someone in maintenance in a galvanizing factory this could be effective but constantly having to filter this out would be a lot of work. Yes we have to use ferrokill to clean/filter the acid/schlum tanks but that needs to be cleaned every few days but after seeing the water here it looks like we would need to clean it out every few hours.
@amazingrestorations9190
@amazingrestorations9190 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the test 👍👍
@shaincastillo6772
@shaincastillo6772 2 жыл бұрын
All hail the KZfaq algorithm!!! 20 minutes into watching KZfaq and pow, Electrolysis vs Acid test! No idea how I got here, but now I know acid is the way to go for solid rust removal from a cast iron pot or skillet.
@cobrasvt347
@cobrasvt347 2 жыл бұрын
The active function of acid will always be the winner in this comparison. Although electrolysis alt a super low current will be better for delicate items although over a much longer span of time.
@tertiusdejager1440
@tertiusdejager1440 2 жыл бұрын
I haven't tried or needed to remove rust from cookware, but I use deoxidene for my rusted tools. But this is a very interesting and informative video. Thanks. 👍
@GMPranav
@GMPranav 2 жыл бұрын
Just curious, doesn't the electrolysis method involve less material loss? Because I think the acid dissolved the rust, but electrolysis restores the metal....
@am6610
@am6610 2 жыл бұрын
Ive tried electrolysis method and it acually dissolves the material if its left for too long and all rust is removed but somehow it doesnt disapear from the metal after it dries it gets more rusty and that gets me confused!
@DedodTwo
@DedodTwo 2 жыл бұрын
@@am6610 are you coating your metal item in a protective oil after removing the rust? If not, your metal item is flash rusting. You want to do it asap after first getting the item cleaned
@am6610
@am6610 2 жыл бұрын
@@DedodTwo Oh snap i missed this step! I will def do it next time and see the result, Thanks for the tip!
@222Randomness222
@222Randomness222 2 жыл бұрын
@@am6610 yep, this video isn't a fair comparison at all. After electrolysis, you have bare metal covered in water for 3 hours. Given a little time, bare iron is always going to have flash rust, no matter the method. If given 3 hours, the acid side didn't form flash rust, I'd be worried about how much acid is left on the surface.
@DedodTwo
@DedodTwo 2 жыл бұрын
@@am6610 let us know how your metal turns out this time :)
@theceramicrepairstudio
@theceramicrepairstudio 2 жыл бұрын
Really found this interesting. 👍
@mattturk4188
@mattturk4188 2 жыл бұрын
Well structured and well presented, nice video mate
@bruce-le-smith
@bruce-le-smith 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this concise and clear demo, and for showing how easy muriatic acid can be to use when you know the correct procedure. Love the forest sounds in the background too.
@RicelingOfficial
@RicelingOfficial 2 жыл бұрын
Man I love these kinds of videos! So interesting, even though it doesn't really apply to me whatsoever! 😄 If I did have one suggestion though is it would be a lot more satisfying if you cleaned off the whole pan with the most effective solution, which in this case was the acid. I think that would make for a great ending!
@boots7859
@boots7859 2 жыл бұрын
Very nice, simple demo!
@Austeration
@Austeration 2 жыл бұрын
Nice 👍 seen the full restoration it was brilliant.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you buddy! 😁
@kylehart8829
@kylehart8829 2 жыл бұрын
This really wasn't done scientifically. You let the pan rust (looks like for a few hours) on the electrolysis side between the tests and it was clearly far worse than just after the electrolysis. The configuration you used also caused the acid's fumes to rise up onto the other side of the pan, accelerating the rusting. You also need to try varying the current used; it's essentially the same as concentration of acid. You could potentially be comparing two very different things by only testing one concentration of acid and one amount of current.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
This wasn't done scientifically, it was just a comparison. ;-)
@mikethedick
@mikethedick 2 жыл бұрын
@@AJRestoration He is saying it was an unfair comparison.
@Marco-dq1ik
@Marco-dq1ik 2 жыл бұрын
@@AJRestoration the problem is that the vapor of the hcl acid is highly corossive.. the part of the pan that was not covered in the acid (previously cleaned by the electrolysis) ironicyally rusted through the acid below..
@fxrmike5145
@fxrmike5145 2 жыл бұрын
Perhaps you could make a better video 🤷
@nathanstrong4359
@nathanstrong4359 2 жыл бұрын
@@AJRestoration point is, it was a bad comparison.
@Machinationstudio
@Machinationstudio 2 жыл бұрын
My cousin pretty much did the electrolysis method for port infrastructure as a business. I guess there's no comparison because putting acid into the sea isn't really an option.
@chefbillybaroo2056
@chefbillybaroo2056 2 жыл бұрын
Very clarifying
@Carinth6
@Carinth6 2 жыл бұрын
I don't really do anything that would require doing this, but the all knowing YT algorithm has brought me here. I found this to be entertaining and I learned something new today.😊 Thanks for the video.👍
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the kind comment, glad you found your way here!
@theleakyprophet
@theleakyprophet 2 жыл бұрын
Not being shown the fully cleaned pan at the end leaves me feeling unsatisfied and somewhat ill at ease.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mZZpp8iJlcjeiY0.html
@leonpelao4806
@leonpelao4806 2 жыл бұрын
The acid dissolved the soot and grease accumulated on the pan, something that electrolysis is not good at. Muriatic acid's fumes are dangerous, is better to use phosphatic acid, also sold at the pool section of your hardware store. Usually labeled rust remover.
@dire_prism
@dire_prism 2 жыл бұрын
It doesn't really give off any fumes in such a low concentration, but worth having in mind when mixing it.
@pistache28
@pistache28 2 жыл бұрын
Interesting and useful video! Thank you!
@davidfuller764
@davidfuller764 2 жыл бұрын
Great comparison, useful
@Jo-ot1wv
@Jo-ot1wv 2 жыл бұрын
Awesome and very interesting comparasant. Can you please do a drill press restauration some time?
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
I have a drill press that I bought for restoration, my shop is a little small for it. Waiting till I upgrade the workshop.
@lpconserv6074
@lpconserv6074 2 жыл бұрын
@@AJRestoration Let me second that request. I also have a small press, and although still fairly new, it is a cheap chinese model and as you go through one, I want to know what I can do to adapt what you find to make mine a better tool. Firstly, the pulleys are driving a bit too fast for me, and I am looking for different size pulleys for slower speed choices.
@TikiShades
@TikiShades 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing. I usually use electrolysis myself. I've only tried using acid once, and the time I did, not only did the rust not come off, the pan grew to be six feet and tried to kill me. Maybe I should try it again?
@anonymousjohn386
@anonymousjohn386 2 жыл бұрын
Try shrooms, the pan may still grow but won't try to kill you.
@schenson2009
@schenson2009 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comparison
@ataarjomand
@ataarjomand 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot. It was very helpful.
@TedsEscapades
@TedsEscapades 2 жыл бұрын
I think that I have 2 issues with the comparison. Firstly is the use of the additive, it really need to be something like caustic soda and secondly the supply needs to have much more current, voltage not so much. 3 amps at 5 volts would be more than sufficient and you would see a vast improvement. The electrolysis also converts the rust, so if you don't clean off excessive rust then you will end up with a poor result.
@John-gm8ty
@John-gm8ty 2 жыл бұрын
I use a car USB adapter, takes longer but is far more gentle on the item being worked. depends on what you want the final outcome to be.
@TheOneAndOnlySame
@TheOneAndOnlySame 2 жыл бұрын
I have a 30 v 10 amp power supply Lol electrolysis go BRRRRRRR the thing blasts trough rust (and also makes vinegar+salt water solution boil if you're not careful
@John-gm8ty
@John-gm8ty 2 жыл бұрын
Acid is faster, but more destructive to the metal (etching) and will etch at different rates across the surface. Electrolysis is better over all for retention of metal, it just takes longer.
@parteuy3434
@parteuy3434 2 жыл бұрын
bonus points; these techniques aren't even exclusive... just use a carbon based conductor to put under the (acidic) water
@Predatoryt7
@Predatoryt7 2 жыл бұрын
Very satisfying 😌
@fixitorstripitGardenmachines
@fixitorstripitGardenmachines 2 жыл бұрын
That was really cool , subbed
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Welcome to the family!
@TheDragon0102
@TheDragon0102 2 жыл бұрын
Acid always has a chance of eating more than just the rust though and can present minor damage to the object.
@darkshadowsx5949
@darkshadowsx5949 2 жыл бұрын
too much of anything is bad. it important to use time to control the reactions.
@TheDragon0102
@TheDragon0102 2 жыл бұрын
@@darkshadowsx5949 Exactly.
@thomasbrown9764
@thomasbrown9764 2 жыл бұрын
What ratio of muriatic acid to water did you use for your test? What was the strength of the muriatic acid you were using?
@ixflqr
@ixflqr 2 жыл бұрын
It was a lot. That’s for sure.
@lpconserv6074
@lpconserv6074 2 жыл бұрын
In industry, we use muriatic acid at around the same 3% level but it is also quite hot. I would not recommend muriatic in much higher concentrations than around 5%. PLEASE NOTE ,,,,, Muriatic acid, by definition as a liquid tops out at around 33% acid with the balance being water. Concentrations above that are actually a gas or vapor. So if normal as purchased muriatic acid is used, to get the 3% (actually 3.3%) that you probably want, 9 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid from the bottle it came in. As for muriatic being better or worse, and for vinegar being better or worse, it depends on what you call worse. Both muriatic acid and vinegar, or acetic acid, have fairly low boiling points. If you get your nose down close to it, obviously everyone knows what vinegar smells like. That is the acetic acid vapor coming off that you smell. And the vapor is a fairly high percent of aceitc acid as compared to what is in the liquid. This is more than doubly true with muriatic acid. The hydrochloric acid is VERY volatile and will litterally evaporate out of the normal as bought bottle if the lid is left off. If you want to ruin practically every iron/steel tool in your workshop, put that muriatic in the closed shop on a summer day with the lid slightly loose. The tools inside will be ruined within a week or so. One bad experience was enough for me. Acid is stored outside in a NON-closed area so if any does weather off, it is NOT on my tools.
@aelfheld
@aelfheld 2 жыл бұрын
Articles I've read on reconditioning cast iron cookware prescribe soaking the cookware in a lye solution for a minimum of 1 hour, followed by a soak in vinegar for no more than one hour to neutralise the lye.
@ShamankingZuty
@ShamankingZuty 2 жыл бұрын
Nice test. I really thought that with all the gunk you see after doing electrolysis that it would have been better. Thank you for doing this.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Great point!
@Nacionarg
@Nacionarg 2 жыл бұрын
What about acid and electrolysis? It would be an inverse anodizing (I know, anodizing is for aluminum and titanium, but the process is comparable)
@Mr_Pr3sid3nt
@Mr_Pr3sid3nt 2 жыл бұрын
Interesting. I like the simple setup. But I feel your comparison wasn't very effective. Maybe try having two iron bars or plates exposed to the elements over a length of time then carry out the comparison between electrolysis and acid simultaneously. That will be interesting to watch.
@TheEtbetween
@TheEtbetween 2 жыл бұрын
Even better
@zahir2023
@zahir2023 2 жыл бұрын
Very nice experiment. Thanks.
@SGG4M3R
@SGG4M3R 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video bro👍
@butchcoplin2316
@butchcoplin2316 2 жыл бұрын
If you had cleaned off the spot before connecting the clip on the pan, it would have better conductivity for electrolysis and would have worked much more efficiently
@OverlordQ
@OverlordQ 2 жыл бұрын
Not to mention unless he coated it, the electrolysized side would have started rusting again as soon as he took it out.
@stadtick
@stadtick 2 жыл бұрын
Your leads were reversed for electrolysis. Electricity flows from positive to negative. For electrolysis to work you need to pull the rust from the part(positive) and deposit it the anode(negative). What you instead succeeded in doing was plating the pan in what ever material the "anode" is made of essentially playing over the rust instead of removing it.
@FindTheMasterpiece
@FindTheMasterpiece 2 жыл бұрын
Actually he was correct. Electrons have a negative charge. They move from negative to positive, and they do the work. Why aren't they marked as + if they have the charge? Because positive and negative were decided before electrons were known.
@stadtick
@stadtick 2 жыл бұрын
@@FindTheMasterpiece you know, I looked it up and you are absolutely right. I'm a big enough man to admit when I'm wrong. I must have confused plating and stripping and that is my bad.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you, I made double sure the leads are correct.
@Mynameisnunyabusiness
@Mynameisnunyabusiness 2 жыл бұрын
There’s conventional and electron theory. You both get half credit⚡️
@hidum5779
@hidum5779 2 жыл бұрын
I loved this. Cheers
@madjr3709
@madjr3709 2 жыл бұрын
Great work material
@Arbh1
@Arbh1 2 жыл бұрын
muriatic acid is so much strong.
@afineassgoosebump1727
@afineassgoosebump1727 2 жыл бұрын
Well I think LSD is still better than electrolysis at removing rust
@kahlzun
@kahlzun 2 жыл бұрын
Fascinating!
@theBaron0530
@theBaron0530 2 жыл бұрын
Well, electrolysis is probably better than acid, for removing unwanted hair! 😁 Seriously, though, that's an excellent demonstration! I have an old 8" skillet that friends gave me, that needs restoring. I never tackled it, in all these years, because scouring it will take a long time-even with a wire brush chucked into a drill. But I never thought of muriatic acid. I may try this.
@patx35
@patx35 2 жыл бұрын
It's unfair to compare them when the electrolysis side flash rusted, while the acid side was fresh out of the bucket.
@ronliebermann
@ronliebermann 2 жыл бұрын
What’s the problem? Just leave it in the sink.
@nidhihegde3648
@nidhihegde3648 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
No problem!
@norayeremeeva
@norayeremeeva 2 жыл бұрын
Nice video! Thank you!
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you too!
@kennygee1245
@kennygee1245 2 жыл бұрын
You have no idea how to do electrolysis, bro. You should watch a couple KZfaq videos yourself. If you are claiming that electrolysis (when done correctly) doesn't strip down to 100% bare metal, then you are flat wrong.
@kennygee1245
@kennygee1245 2 жыл бұрын
@Wayne Flanigan So garbage. Proves nothing and promotes a less environmentally-option for no reason other than speed.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Wayne is correct Kenny. This was a head to head comparison and each had 3 hours. I know more about electrolysis than what you think. If you want to be a salty grinch please go watch another channel's videos. It's not about speed, It's about efficiency.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you! 😁
@kennygee1245
@kennygee1245 2 жыл бұрын
You have made a terrible video (not about speed, but about efficiency, LOL) that unfairly promotes an environmentally harmful restoration process. But the people who restore in 3 hours will love you. Good bye!
@Winkleo.x
@Winkleo.x 16 күн бұрын
I like to do both. Using electrolysis with sodium carbonate as the electrolyte converts rust into black iron(iii) oxide. Sometimes electrolysis will miss some nooks and crannies that aren't in line-of-sight with the anode. I follow up with a quick bath in phosphoric acid that converts any remaining rust and flash-rust into iron phosphate. The iron phosphate coating is extraordinarily paintable, especially when used with an etch primer. Great video. It really demonstrates the chemical reactions that happen with both methods.
@AKilosOfRaPATonOfHonesty
@AKilosOfRaPATonOfHonesty 2 жыл бұрын
Satisfying video! Greetings 🙋🏻‍♂️🙂👌🏻
@22M3TAL4U
@22M3TAL4U 2 жыл бұрын
Great video! Very informative 😁
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you! 😁
@Unspoken975
@Unspoken975 2 жыл бұрын
Don't know how it got recommended but definitely a great video to the point.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!
@hope-pp1ns
@hope-pp1ns 2 жыл бұрын
It was a fun video to watch thanx.
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it
@DukeCity.S.V
@DukeCity.S.V 2 жыл бұрын
I use lard , heat & elbow grease... works really well.
@AmazingThings685
@AmazingThings685 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing great gob man
@FrankLowe1949
@FrankLowe1949 15 күн бұрын
Nice thank you so much.
@nelsoncarta9351
@nelsoncarta9351 2 жыл бұрын
Excelente, muy bueno, una prueba interesante.
@yitskr
@yitskr 2 жыл бұрын
i love this experimenttttt
@ryilmazz
@ryilmazz Жыл бұрын
Nice job.
@oneshotme
@oneshotme 2 жыл бұрын
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
Much appreciated!
@oneshotme
@oneshotme 2 жыл бұрын
@@AJRestoration 👍👍👍
@theovanzyl7133
@theovanzyl7133 2 жыл бұрын
Love the hadeda calls in the background sound. Makes me a little homesick...
@AJRestoration
@AJRestoration 2 жыл бұрын
They are almost in all of my videos.
@sandrosachser
@sandrosachser 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you.
@evidentlyredneck
@evidentlyredneck 2 жыл бұрын
Wow... Nice vid
@larryrowe5259
@larryrowe5259 2 жыл бұрын
I usually use full strength muratinc acid, after removing excess rust with power or hand brush. Depending on the material and it's use, this will take 5 to 30 minutes, checking often on the process. When process is satisfactory, I'll soak it in baking soda and waters. To prevent rust flashing, I'll dry with heat gun and immediately coat with light oil or a good spray primer. Steel bolts, brackets ,just about anything.
@hamduddinmasrur4614
@hamduddinmasrur4614 2 жыл бұрын
Cool af 🎯
@bowis9039
@bowis9039 2 жыл бұрын
nice info
@prionix9480
@prionix9480 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you
@sphad3555
@sphad3555 2 жыл бұрын
😍 Nice I like it 💛
@slimwantedman6694
@slimwantedman6694 2 жыл бұрын
Good morning from Southeast South Dakota
@valmirramos4195
@valmirramos4195 2 жыл бұрын
Valeu AJ!
@tree123169
@tree123169 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the information. I knew about electrolysis, but I didn't know about it's rust removing capabilities. (or I forgot them) I love learning new things. Next information gathering will be centered on electrolysis. BTW you can teach an old dog new tricks. 😉😁
@PiefacePete46
@PiefacePete46 2 жыл бұрын
Excellent video thanks. I note from other videos on this topic that the surface area of the anode is significant to the efficiency of electrolysis. Sheet rather than rod may give different results?
@sanjuu1988
@sanjuu1988 2 жыл бұрын
I was waiting for him to slide his finger on the middle part. Glad he did.
@noturbusiness9736
@noturbusiness9736 2 жыл бұрын
Very cool
@sbalneav
@sbalneav 2 жыл бұрын
I've restored the majority of my cast iron with electrolysis. In my opinion, the biggest benefit is that at the end of the electrolysis, all you have to dispose of is some sodium (bi)carbonate solution, which is completely harmless. At no point with electrolysis do you have to worry about burning yourself with any corrosive substances.
@samueljohnclark
@samueljohnclark 2 жыл бұрын
Molasses dips are very good also and very ‘green’ with disposal. 9 parts water to 1 part molasses. Let it brew for a week then pop your rusty item in. Takes 1-2 weeks but it will remove everything off and will penetrate as well - for example rusty moving components. On removal flush with water and brush or high pressure washer then treat with phosphoric acid treatment like metal prep.
@1995dresser
@1995dresser 2 жыл бұрын
Moved into a house many years ago and found four cast iron pans on the porch all were rusted with baked in crud as luck would have it I worked at a place that machined cast iron and cleaned it using phosphoric acid and ultrasonics on a automated wash line so i put four ugly pans in the baskets at the beginning of the wash line and got four clean cast iron gray pans at the end that looked like new still have them today
@FredFS4558
@FredFS4558 2 жыл бұрын
Good video. Can you please make a detailed video using the list of acids you mention, for home purpose.
@BawkBawkBawk666
@BawkBawkBawk666 2 жыл бұрын
And here I was looking for another good use for my wire wheel. Maybe next time
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