You can do it! 😎

Yes, that is the one thing which wasn't very obvious anywhere else. Thanks Ken for the video and JP for pointing out the time stamp and the fact about 'tightening the packing nut while the stem was too tight'.

I change the seat and I’m still getting drips.

@@joejoe6949 Did you replace the rubber washer that closes on the seat? Probably so . If you installed a new stem valve . Good luck .

Hercules overtightened the water off does not help either, 😸💪✌️🙏🤔 half turn after rubber contacts, just like a oil filter, too much will pinch or roll seal ...👍🎯☝️

You are probabley right. I did save the seats if I did need to replace but my shower is not used and they currently work good.

@@KenTraining are the seats universal? or how can you find the type to place?

@@ShortyisHeree I had the seats in the kit, what I needed was the removal tool. My seats did not leak so I left them. If my seats did leak I would have got the tool and changed out the seat. I still have the seats if that becomes necessary.

Anthony Good point . But if the seats aren’t ‘crashed’ , damaged they might not need replacement . But they should be replaced since the repair is being done anyway.👍. So you would be correct.

​@KenTraining You should have changed Bibb Seats. You don't need L shaped special wrench, and you can use a Philips Screw Driver #5 which worksbetter than a Wrench.😅

I did not change out but you will need a special valve seat removal tool to do so. Work slow and use penetrating oil to try to loosen up.

replace the seats as well and it should not leak by.

@@KenTraining Thank you, i bought the stems set. Gonna have to get the whole kit.

May need to replace both hot and cold seats.

@@deborahwhatley3551 Thank you, did it and no more leaks.

I ended up removing the old 3 valve faucet and installing a single handle Moen PosiTemp valve with a Schmidty plate

@@KenTraining Thanks so much for the info. My diverter valve is leaking just like yours was but worse. Someone in the comments of the Danco valve mentioned his O-ring was a bit thin and he put a thicker one on and it took care of his problem. I did the same but it only made it better, not fixed. Now it's leaking like before. I bought a Home Depot home brand Everbuilt diverter valve and plan to give that a try otherwise I'll be doing the same as you did. I also like how you didn't need to turn off the water to replace the diverter valve. The water shutoff valve is from the 60's and sometimes it wants to seep so I tighten the bonnet but if I don't need to shut it off that's even better. Thanks!!

same 😅

Me too? Fixed it?

sorry.

you have a restriction somewhere. 1. shut water off and remove valve/s and look with flash light for debris. open water on without valves to blow out anything in the lines. put back together and test.

then buy the special seat removal tool, spray penetrating fluid on the old seat, let sit for 10 minutes then try to extract old seat with tool. go slow and don't break or strip anything. you may need to add more penetrating fluid or even some heat.

you must have a restriction somewhere in the system. You may need to flush the system out to clear it.

as long as your seats are in good condition and you can remove the old broken stems then you may be good.

Mine has a broken seat behind the stem but stem is good. But ill probably replace stems a​nd seats. Could i use brass instead of plastic the part that screws in behind the valve stem?@@KenTraining

​@@KenTrainingI took a screw driver to get out the broken part of the seat.

@@daviddart400 yes, use brass,

Thanks, i was told by like 3 people to replace the whole diverter but nothing is wrong with it. Just the seating was broke and had my faucet leaking. Thank You@KenTraining

if you are replacing internal part and keeping the valve body, you will need the exact replacement parts. the best bet is to pull out the old parts and bring to hardware store so you can match it up.

I would not know that answer.

correct because it has a gasket to seat that joint.

Yes, anything is possible. I would 1. Shut off the water 2. Take the diverter valve apart and check with flashlight any obstructions. Then I would turn water on for a second to blow out any debris. 3. Put diverter valve back in and make sure valve operates freely 4. Put water back on and test operation.

if you are sure you have the correct replacement part with the same thread pattern you man need to rethread the threads. you will need the exact tap and dye size for this and I don't know that size. If I were you, call a plumber in to evaluate.

@@KenTraining ok thanks😁

Plumbers putty Is not used in an installation like this. That is used where you want to prevent leakage for something like water on a sink deck down into a cabinet or a garbage disposal flange down into a cabinet. It simply seals the gaps.

you need to shut the water off that serves the area you are working on. If you have a seperate shut off valve to do that you will be good.

It sounds like the valve handle (the part you normally turn with your hand) is rusted/stuck on the valve stem. In that case you may need a valve handle removal tool. check out this link www.homedepot.com/p/Armour-Line-Adjustable-Faucet-Handle-and-Compression-Sleeve-Puller-RP77233/306693291?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-026_007_PLUMB_REPAIR-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-New_Engen&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-026_007_PLUMB_REPAIR-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-New_Engen-71700000081569458-58700006932068295-92700062338492184&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5oiMBhDtARIsAJi0qk0u28F3DJhSy8N6FbB9Z3t_AzFHhekjsmSWVd_yq-4HP70x9tMmwp0aAnFTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

good question.

its as if the brand new cold stem you just put in is not working correctly. could you have mixed up the hot and cold?

@@KenTraining just double checked the package and it is a cold stem. It’s strange too because when I put it in with a hand wrench, it was tight and worked properly for a few days (when I turned the water off, the knob would come to a complete stop).

@@connorpinto7095 I don't know what to say but maybe the new one is broken and you need another new on?

@@KenTraining yeah, strange. I’ll figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to respond tho!

Great question, the answer is First call in a plumber to see if they have some tricks to replace it that you did not do. if the plumber is unsuccessful in the valve replacement then How bad was the valve for you to start this project. If you cant get the old valve out can you live with the old valve? If you can then just live with it, if you cant, you will need to remove the entire valve and replace the shower fixture with all new. try to go in the back of the shower wall for access. This requires more skill than just replacing the valves.

Yes, as long as the hot and cold are shut off you are safe. BUT just to be on the safe side, go slow and always know where your main water shut off valve is located.

@@KenTraining Ok , thanks Brother , Great Video !

I don't understand that either. Is the valve going through a full open close cycle?

I think so. It goes to tub really strong but doesn’t go to shower really. I cleaned the inside and removed a stuck washer in the hole and still no good

@@frankcheco7550 there must be some blockage.

@@KenTraining I really think I cleared it all up…. But I’ll check again in the morning.

So now the tub part shuts off and I get a spurt of water on the shower for half a second and then that goes off too. It sounds like it wants to come thru the shower but it just doesn’t for some reason

Very True. 🙂

can you drop in here a JSK video link? Thanks for the comments.