As a plumber for 13yrs i have never replaced olive unless its really damaged just put bit off jointing compound or ptfe.

Thank you for showing the inner parts of the valve and explaining how the spindle moves the plug, so that it only moves through a small angle. As you said, other videos leap straight into replacing the electrical actuator, without suggesting checking the valve spindle and the valve plug sealing first. I doubt if you needed to drain your system. Water does not flow of its own accord uphill, so if your radiators are all below the level of your 3-way valve, then no water will flow out from them when you remove the valve. From your video, the heating coil on your hot water tank is below the valve, so no water would flow from that either. Your video shows an isolating valve between the pump and the valve, so this can be used to isolate that leg. You do of course need to shut off the supply from the header tank. The only water flowing out would be the small amount in the short pipes near to the valve. The olives were working well just before you removed the valve. They will work just as well when you install the new valve. Drayton long ago learned how to put a smooth surface on the sealing faces of their valves. You are more likely to cause a problem with your hacksaw blade, scoring the pipe more than the olive can cope with. There is no need to centralise the valve spindle before removing the valve - the spindle of the new valve will self-align with the actuator anyway as the actuator is fitted. That's not a "spanner" - it's a "Grip". :-) The nuts on 22mm diameter copper pipe are 32mm Across Flats (A/F) I would suggest buying a proper spanner before starting this job. (£6.00 on ebay)

I know it’s an old video, but for the future repairs/replacements, you can get yourself olive puller, saves a lot of time

Just a quick note for any one thinking of doing this for the first time. DO IT I just did, used the original olives with jointing compound and not even a drip and my wife was amazed as I didn’t swear once.

Thanks for posting this video which is informative and gets to the problem well. A friend who is a master plumber (and a DJ) made a comment: "It has always been considered bad practice to fit a mechanical shut-off valve to a central heating system cold feed: these valves can be accidentally left closed, which could lead to a dangerous situation, should the primary expansion pipe become frozen in the loft, causing both the open vents to the heating system to be shut, cutting the passage of expansion water, which in turn could lead to a serious pressurisation of the whole system, probably causing the system to fail at the weakest point."

21 seconds into this video - I've diagnosed the problem (had it my self with a 2 port Drayton). The fix will take 15-20 seconds, you don't need to drain the system, you don't need to turn the electrics off and you don't need to do anything except: 1. Press the head release catch, remove the head. 2. Put oil on the valve spindle and work the spindle back and forth until freed off. 3. Replace the head unit. Job done.

This video helped me loads and now I understand how these parts work , well done thanks.

This is exact same problem I have, with the same system setup (Drayton MA1). I originally replaced the motor on the MA1 but didn't realise that the valve should be easy to turn. This video confirms my suspicion and has been really helpful.. Thank you so much!! Worth noting to you tubers, to make sure the bleed valves on all the RAD's are securely tight before refilling the RADs.

Thank you so much for putting this up. My mum's actuator (same type) fell off and you showed me how to put it on again. I am so grateful that we didn't have to get someone to visit the house in these difficult times.

You don’t need to take the olives off (compression washers as you called them) and the other you is that you don’t need to put any silicone on them either.

remove head, remove circlip on valve pin, gently tap down, wd40, rotate a few times, pull pin up into original position, refit circlip. job done.

I learnt more here thanks ,

Thank you for taking the time to do this. Much appreciated. I’ve always been suspicious of the valve as radiators heat up when I only have hot water on. Did you drain the system from a radiator?

Great Video! I think I have the same problem where the boiler is drawing gas when the heating is switched off. How much would this cost to replace of paying a tradesman?

Hi. I have the same model actuator. Could you please explain how to manually switch between the three heating positions? Do you have to press the black button on the side in order to move the 'sliding' lever? Thanks in advance.

Good video, but note the comments of zinniasequoia. I tend not to bother with replacement olives and just add some ptfe tape around the olive before tightening. The olives are made of copper, so are malleable enough to form a seal with the old nuts, even on second fixing. I love the comment of one of the bods, "Leave it to the professionals"! Hilarious. You need a second mortgage to get a plumber out now, and there's no guarantee they will be competent!

Thans very much

No need to cut the olives but use a sealant latuise

very good

Question.... Plumber changed my system pump because was noisy.. The new pump was fitted wrong way round! The heating was on red hot and the stat couldn't lower the temp,,, can back a few days later to swap pump around then says the 3way port needs changing? My bad luck as no issues before he fitted pump wrong or is it because of what he did caused 3way port to be damaged?

You can put the valve back on 2 ways does it matter which

Do they know safe isolation of electrics before they start opening up junction boxes?

Hi. My system is exactly like the one you're replacing. How do I drain the system to prevent water spillage. The boiler tank is located upstairs.

The reason your three port valve was sticking is because the system has a lot of magnetite in the water causing the spindle to seize, the whole system needs chemically cleaning out and flushing, then refilling with the correct amount of inhibitor added, if the system is not cleaned out the new valve you have fitted will also seize. There is no need to fit new olives when reusing a compression fitting, if the olives and seats are cleaned in rotational manner using scotchbrite the join will not leak. If you do remove an olive and replace it with a new one, chances are you will damage the pipe surface which will cause a leak, never add sealant to an olive as it causes problems when the joint is next taken apart, also if any bit of the sealant floats away down the pipe it will very likely clog up a radiator valve,

do you do any work in london?

Hi, I'm trying to change my valve, but how do I stop the water flow/ drain the system?x

Where is my valve? Diesel oil heater buderus Logan g115. Don't see that plastic box only a red water button red flywheel??

how much did you charge the customer

Why drain the system? Bung the tank feed and vent pipe.

How often do these things need replacing because my rental house seems to need a new one every 3 years or so - I feel like am being ripped off! It wasn't this frequent of an issue when I was living at the house.

Ever had one leak when you do that?

are you trying to convince your average diy person to start tampering with there central system?

Looking at it the system needs a good flush out

Always replace olives . U can get an adjustable spanner and make it the size of the nut and slide it and tap them off . Easy

No need to remove those olives, just wrap some ptfe tape around the pipe/olive joint.

You could of got away with the old olives along with some compound

Jesus what's the hole in the floor ? Your loose your cat down there !

Who soldered that elbow on the valve, maybe the first year apprentice. Truly awful.

No - you don’t need to change the valve if it’s seized! Leave it to the professionals.