I didn't see him use the chain whip at all

​@lowmx6 2:20 his improvised chain whip he made with vice grips. You don't need any chain whip, improvised or not. Each time you stomp on the pedals you'll tighten up that freewheel

Totally agreed with you. Always tight freewheel with hands and after some kms of riding it seating very tight!

He's confusing it with a fixed gear cog/sprocket.

😃

Yep, and I just do one sharp stab with the heel of my foot, and viola.

I'm a little late to the party but you actually don't use a chain/Chain whip at all in tightening a freewheel, just the freewheel tool and a wrench. He's confusing the process of tightening/loosening a fixed gear cog/sprocket.

no need to actually lock it you cant unscrew it due to its design and it will automatically get tighter when u push the pedal (same thing with your disc breaks, the screws you see hold holds it to the bolt the bolt itself is what holds it to the wheel)

It got no use

Lol yea not needed.

Having tried a bunch of gear ratios, thought I'd chime in on this question. For my town, with a river and subsequent river valley running through it, 3:1 (48:16 or 42:14) seems perfect. Perfect if going fast is priority. Climbs are taxing, but manageable and launching from a standstill isn't too tough. A 3:1 ratio really shines during short sprints, like catching up to cars to draft. In traffic, 3:1 is safer as it allows quick acceleration when it counts and rarely spins out. I tried 42:16 recently, was a bit wimpy, but my knees loved it and the high cadence practice was good for me. Only lasted a few rides though before I tired of always feeling spun-out. 46:16, a little kinder than 48:16 is a happy medium. I don't know what yer running as a chainwheel, but I bet you'd enjoy a jump from 16 tooth to 18 tooth freewheel to enjoy your rides more. Especially if you are confident in yourself and don't need to prove anything to anyone. I suffer from a need to be faster than my friends, hence 52:16. Tough on the take-offs, slower off the line than 3:1, also requiring a plan for climbs. Personally, I like challenging climbs, and usually am first to the top. Our valley is also only about 120' deep too. Best advice I'd give is go back and forth, swapping freewheel a few times a year.

For getting up hills easier :)

I'm running 39:22 and am about to change that to 38:22 (on a 130BCD). I really enjoy low gears in town and it makes getting uphill and taking my son on the bike easier...

What if people don't have a bench vice or don't have the space or can even afford one. I mean DIY is all about improvisation. Peace. ✌

I don't have an extra chain or a vice and the nearest bike shop is an hour and a half away trying to figure it how to tighten it up because the bike company doesn't tighten them on the bikes before thy ship them out

God damn it. 😂 where were you 5 minutes ago when my dumbass was muscling the freewheel off?

yes but that weights like 20g

Your chainring is probably lopsided! It’s not too uncommon, and is the likely cause of the chain getting loose and tight. To replace a chainring, look up a “Bolt Circle Diameter Calculator” and do a few simple measurements in order to find the correct size.

bigger cog (more teeth) on rear wheel = easier gear, better for hills. smaller cog on rear = harder gear, high top speed for flat riding. The opposite is true for the front chain ring where you pedal, a bigger chainring will make gears harder, and smaller ring makes it easier

The wheel hub has a threaded portion which the freewheel threads on to. The freewheel itself has a central threaded core which houses the freewheel mechanism. I hope that helps, I'm no expert myself but it is my understanding of how it works.

Cassette, not SS/FIX.

There is no use for it, he's confusing the process of tightening/loosening a fixed gear cog/sprocket....

If no reply, call bike shop.😎

Hey can I put a 17t freewheel on 25t sprocket? I'm building my first bike

Then it's not a monopoly then if there is competition that sells it for a lower price.

Depends on chain ring size too. I ride a 44/16 which is just nice. Can ride it casually at Low speeds 15-20kph but also can spin up to speeds to 35kph+ She probably needs a gear ratio between 2.5-2.75 (divide your chain ring teeth by freewheeel teeth)

I have bought a new bicycle a single speed 27.5” which came with 40 / 18 T ( 2.22) My location has uneven terrain and it is very difficult to pedal on uphills. Now I am changing the cogwheel to 22T ( to get 1.82) and getting my bike tomorrow . Hoping it will solve my problem.

I'm currently riding a 44/18, which has a gear ratio of aprox. 2.44. This ratio is suitable for any city environment and even small hills are manageable. Assuming your wife got 28inch wheels with a circumference of 2.2 Meter (Diameter * pi ), she would move aprox. 5.35 Meter (2.2m * 2.44) for each full pedal revolution . One revolution per second or 60 per minute is a super relaxed cadence (60rpm) and with a gear ratio of 2.44 she would move 19km/h (5.35m * 60rpm * 60 minutes = 19260m/h = 19,26km/h). All gear ratios between 2-2.5 are relatively easy and suitable for people with weak legs, beginners and not too steep hills. I also have a bike with a ratio of 2.75 and the difference in difficulty is definitely noticeable when taking off at traffic lights. If your wife is a beginner and the hills in your city are similar to those in San Fransisco you might want to aim for a ratio below 2. Choose the ratio according to your wife's strength and in relation to her current gear ratio and your city's streets. You can always calculate speeds with the following formula (assuming the Diameter of the wheel is 700mm): (1320* gearRatio * cadence)/1000 = speed in km/h Keep in mind that more than 2.5 pedal revolution per second (150rpm cadence) starts to look ridiculous and is highly unpleasant. The most comfortable cadence for the majority of cyclists is at 80-90rpm.

Your top speed will be very very slow. To be exact, you will only go 6.8mph at the typical cadence of 60 pedals per minute. On a 46x17, your speed would be 12.9mph at a cadence of 60 pedals per minute. So you will have to pedal twice as fast to go the same speed as a standard single speed! www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence

@@jakesworkshop1253 wtf? That's a crazy calculation. We could never figure this shyt out as kids. Some bikes worked better then others. Never always knew exactly why. We would pay attention to Gears, weight, height, even length but honestly u just had to get a lil lucky to get the perfect build. Gotta love the internet bro.

@@jakesworkshop1253 He may not care about downhill, as he does not have to pedal, but uphill is all to be sorted. While idea is in similar direction, that he needs, it well may be, he will not obtain 32T freewheel in the first place. Second, 32T is the lowest gear on my rather-wide-choice 9-speed cassette, which well proves, that it is very very inconvenient extreme for a single gear. All the use for the bike in lowest gear - it's nonsense. I would say, go 22, if single-speed is at all your thing at the given hilly circumstances.

i think 13

Freewheel Remover

46 x 17, then I changed it to 46 x 20

@@jakesworkshop1253 that's dope. I might look into doing something Similar since I gotta get into this shyt anyway. The bike I'm working on will just be pedaled around out front & to the park until it finds a new home. So a faster gear would be appreciated

IceToolz BMX Freewheel Remover 2 Prong | Single speed 2-notch Freewheel Remover | Use with 24mm spanner www.amazon.com/dp/B0015HZ41M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SHJA4CW9S240QMPBAYYJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

@@jakesworkshop1253 looks too big of prongs to fit in the holes

Need to install this type www.amazon.com/Hycline-Freewheel-Bicycle-Replacement-Accessory/dp/B0957HM313/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=freewheel&qid=1628642236&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExOVZJWDRQSjAwQThXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzE2NDEzMU4yQVFQSVpFQzNRWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODQwNjE3M0FKMU5QQzUwNTBCUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Couldn't I just tighten it and then let the pedal finish tightening it after a few rotations?

Yes. The bigger the rear sprocket is - the easier it is to pedal. And vice versa - smaller the front chainring is - the easier to pedal.

No