That's how i did mine on my Subaru lol now I'm about to do my girlfriends accord

Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching!

All you need is pliers to pull on the pin and twist. It bends because it’smade from cheap ass metal. You can unbolt the old tensioner to remove the tension on the belt and as long as the slack is on the tensioner side of the belt , install the tensioner and pull the pin with pliers. The bigger the pliers the easier. I used big channel lock style pliers. If you do want to use a bolt in the hole Relieve tension on the belt use the boat from the battery tiedown Terminal. It threads right in. My tensioner was partially bad , no leaks or anything but the belt had too much play. I can’t believe the car was running fine and was over the Maintence mileage for t belt and water pump change. The water pump went and when I removed everything I realized the belt had too much slack. Another thing I don’t recommend is rotating the engine with no tension on the belt. You will most likely skip a tooth so triple check tdc markings as you might need to turn the cams slightly to get the belt teeth on all the way. Getting the belt on and routing it while Keeping everything at tdc was the hardest part of the entire job for me. Once the belt is on and you check all markings (I can’t stress this enough ) you don’t want to have to compress the new tensioner If markings are off, it’s a PITA. ONCE You pull the Grenade pin it’s smooth sailing. Also i reccomend using the oem blue coolant which is silica free. That’s what Honda calls for and I see a lot of ppl using the green antifreeze which will still work but using the wrong antifreeze can shorten the engines lifespan.

That’s awesome! Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for the feedback! I’m glad you found it helpful.

Amazing feedback. Thank you so much.

I know what you mean! No matter how many timing belts I’ve done, there’s always that feeling right before start-up. Good idea on the crank bolt!

Wow thank you!

That’s such a compliment and encouragement to me. Thank you. I’m glad I was able to produce a video that was helpful to you. And that’s definitely a good point about the crank bolt!

Thank you!

Bad design for sure.

Thank you. Yeah, this Accord is in really good shape for the miles. It just goes to show that with good maintenance these cars can really last. I spent some time driving it around and it really drives like new even with 200,000 miles.

​@jackhfletcher it's too bad Honda went crazy and changed over to that horrible 1.5L "earth dreams" engine! They're having all kinds of oil dilution issues with that engine. My last car was a Honda Accord but I switched back to Toyota just recently, primarily due to those issues. Plus you cannot go wrong when buying a new Toyota.

​@@donniev8181thank climate change freaks . It's because of fuel regulations.

It definitely is. It’s in great shape for its age and mileage.

Doing mine next week after parts come in. I saw another guy mark his belts and you confirmed that so I will as well. I’m having a shop break the crank bolt for me before I drive it a short distance and do my thing. Return and the guy will retighten crank bolt. I’m figuring a full day and a buttload of patience. $150-$175 I’m figuring I’ll have in it. My kit does not include a new tensioner. Best guess is 100k on that tensioner. I’m going to search locally for it while my other parts are in transit though. Leak happened within 2 days of putting antifreeze in it instead of the straight water that I had been running for over a year! I triple checked the radiator fluid (non diluted) yep, all engines. Drained radiator added the full fluid (purple in color?) and topped off with water. It was close to 50/50 and 2 days later…….. Didn’t see anywhere it leaked from! I’m certain I didn’t leak anything, I’m thinking I boiled it out. My life sucks sometimes!

Aisin is great! Can’t go wrong with that.

correct method for tightening water pump. Don't over torque!

I almost didn’t include that part, but now I’m thankful I did! I’m glad you enjoyed the video!

You definitely can do it! Good luck!

Do it before it’s too late

I’m trying to remember back… I believe the block drain was rusty and I didn’t want to risk messing with it. Thanks for watching!

Now unfortunately when I tried to make the timing belt really snug as I fed it onto the front cam, the cam jumped clockwise quite a bit past the mark! This is not good I know. Can you suggest what I can do to realign the front cam to TDC?

I’ve read that I can rotate the cam up to 120 degrees as long as all three gears were at TDC when the belt was taken off, which they were. I need to move the front cam ccw about 80 degrees to get to TDC again but I’m worried about bending a valve

Thank you.

I’d say go for it. Raise the front of the car and put it on jack-stands. Unfold a large cardboard box and use it as a mat to lay on. That’s how I used to work in the driveway😅 I replaced the clutch on my F-150 and did a bunch of other stuff that way.

@@jackhfletcher are certain hack stands better than others? Like i see so many “jack stand fail” videos it got me nervous to lay under this thing lol

Don’t watch those videos! Lol. I personally use both Craftsman and Harbor Freight jack stands. Anything you buy from a big box store or auto parts store is going to be fine. Even so, I still keep a small amount of pressure applied with the floor jack just for an extra safety (in addition to using the jack stands). Just make sure to pull the e-brake and chock the rear wheels also.

I did not drain the coolant. On these, I usually just crack the water pump loose and let it drain. As far as the mount, it sort of depends on your exact year and model. If you can remove the floor jack and the engine stays in place (like the one in this video) then there is no need to leave the jack. However, if the engine starts dropping like crazy when you lower the jack, then I would leave it in place. As far as cam/crank seals, it’s up to you. Some people replace them. Usually if they’re not leaking I just leave them alone. Also, some people decide to remove and re-seal the oil pump housing. There is no harm in doing all that, but you’re just creating extra work for yourself. Bottom line - whatever you feel comfortable tackling is ok.

@@jackhfletcher Appreciate the advice and help, thank you for the detailed response to those questions. You did really well with filming and doing the work so people could see.

There’s no need to keep a jack underneath. I used the jack to support the engine while I removed the mount just in case the engine were to shift or drop some while removing the mount.

I can’t remember the last time I saw a 1998-2000 Honda Accord in my shop. Most people who still own those aren’t so inclined to bring their car to a shop. But if I ever get the chance I’d love to make a video.

I’ve never tried that. It may be possible, but it’s not meant to be done that way. The top covers each have a grove that fit into the lower cover, so you’re supposed to remove them first. I’m guessing you could get the bottom cover off, but getting it re-installed would be difficult.

It can be done without taking off any covers. Look on youtube

Edit** only if your changing the tensioner.

@@jackhfletcher will you do this on my pilot for me?

In a situation like that, it’s best to install a new timing belt and crank the engine to see if it starts. I wouldn’t worry about the water pump. Just change the timing belt and tensioner. Then try to start it like how I did in the video where you still have the covers off. If it starts right up then you’re good. If not, then the engine is toast. There’s no hard and fast rule about how many teeth the timing can be off before engine damage occurs. A lot of that depends on the circumstances of driving when the failure happened.

@@jackhfletcher She said she was pulling into the grocery store parking lot and it started running really rough and the CEL came on but she was able to park then shut it off and it has not been cranked since it was towed to the Honda shop where they ran a diagnostic test and said it jumped time and would have to tear into it to see if pistons kissed valves. I had it towed to her house to do the work my self because she decided to just buy a new car and gave me this one to fix and have as a backup. It only has 136,000 miles on it and only recently started the tensioner tapping noise. I hate to only swap the timing belt without just installing the full timing kit while I’m in there but if pistons kissed valves that would be a waste unless I remove heads and rebuild the engine. Thanks for the advice!

From what you’re saying, I bet the engine will be ok, but of course, there’s no guarantee. If you’re committed to fixing the car, no matter what, then you might as well do the full timing kit and hope for the best. Good luck!

@@jackhfletcher yessir thank you! I may need it. Awesome video, I will be using this. I’m a diesel mechanic, these Asian cars kill my big hands!

The crank pulley bolt is 47 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees. That’s the official toque spec according to Mitchell Pro-Demand. The serpentine belt tensioner on your 04 Odyssey is different than the one shown in my video. In fact, the particular style you see in my video was only used from 08-10 I believe. I hope you’ll find my video helpful when you decide to tackle the job!

If it's anything like my 04 TL, it'll be a little yellow plastic bushing.

@@d.leesheppard7607 I also had a 2007 TL-S, the most disappointing car I ever owned. I had the tranny rebuilt, 20k later had another shop-rebuilt tranny put on. Then the car had another tranny problem 2k miles later... I junked it right there. The previous owner had another tranny replacement under warranty before me. If my accounting is right she had 4 transmissions, died on the fifth, not even had 160k. I would not worry too much about the timing belt and all other parts. When I replaced the timing belt (kit) first time every part looked rather good. The transmission probably dies before the belt. I'd wait and see before spending money on the belt.

No, Gates isn’t better than stock. It won’t give you any performance enhancements.

@@jackhfletcherthank you bro appreciate the help

​@@UserRjtbuy oem parts..you don't want junk china bearings...trust me on that

Get the pulley on as much as you can. If there is only a little bit left, then you can use the bolt to push it the rest of the way.

If you have an electric impact driver it will come right out. If not, then put the socket on a ratchet or small breaker bar. Once you’re on the crank bolt, strike the handle of the ratchet/breaker bar with a metal hammer as if you’re trying to loosen the bolt. If the bolt is only in there hand tight then it should break loose and come out.

Yes it should be very similar as they are the same engine.

@@dy1angi11ey6 Thank you how did you hold up the engine without the block and the motor mount at like the 6:45 time stamp in the video

@@andys8144I haven’t done this yet as a still have a good bit of miles left before I’m going to replace the belt, but what I would do is after you jack up your car and place your jack stand, move the jack under your oil pan and place a piece of wood between the jack and pan. You don’t want to try to lift it/apply too much pressure to it, you just want it to touch a bit so it can support it.

Just be a man and grab it and pull! Their not that bad!

Yes, it’s in Katy, TX.

@@jackhfletcher What is your address? or the name of the shop? Thanks!

If your timing belt broke, then yes, it’s possible that something is bent. In fact, more than likely there is damage. I don’t know how far you’re trying to move the camshafts, but if you’re trying to move them more than about a quarter rotation then it’s impossible because the valves will contact the pistons, preventing the cams from turning past a certain point. What you need to do is rotate the crankshaft about 30 degrees past top-dead center. This will lower the pistons enough to prevent any clearance issues when rotating the cams. If the cams still won’t move, then something else is wrong.

@@jackhfletcher I will try that, thank you so much for the response!! Have a great day!

@@jackhfletcher so I put the crank shaft 30 degrees off and then the cam shafts would move. I set both of the camshafts on their timing marks and then went back to the crank shaft to try and line the timing up. Going clockwise when I get past the 6 o’clock spot it hits, and then I tried to get to the timing mark counter clockwise and as soon as I get to the 1 o’clock spot it hits and won’t go past to the 12 o’clock timing line.

Get the marks as close as you can, then take the timing belt back off and start over. After removing the tensioner, you’ll have to press the plunger back into the tensioner and put the grenade pin back in.

Katy, TX

The Gates part number is T43129 and the Aisin part number is BTH001

@@jackhfletcher thank you Sir, my timing belt tensioner is due for replacement already cant find the right part number in google :( thank you again!

I would definitely double check the timing. One of the cam gears might be off a tooth.

No, it’s not.

@jackhfletcher I got to do my timing belt this weekend your video help out a lot

Good question. You’re exactly right. On some cars, the engine drops down several inches when removing that upper mount, so I make it a habit to place a jack under the engine. In this case, it barely moved at all. Whether or not it moves a lot, the other mounts keep the engine in place so the jack isn’t needed after you remove the mount.