The disc covering the oil pump gauze comes out to give a really good clean and taps back in.

This looks like a trained Citroen mechanic job. So complicated for what is, in principle, a simple job. No wonder they say the things they do about French cars. :) Would your average non franchised garage have the know-how, would you think?

Great job well explained step by step for anyone brave enough to have a go.cheers for sharing 👍

Great video I have one of these engines, which is now just 6 years old in a Berlingo. So a cambelt change is needed. I do a lot of my own maintenance and many years ago used to strip engines and gearboxes and clutches etc. as an amateur. But you have now frightened me off by all the complexities of this engine and the cambelt change. So your video has been very useful in that when it is done by a professional, I will not be thinking that this is realistically something I should have done myself and saved a lot of money. I will just have to remortgage the house. But really interesting and maybe the bill won't seem quite as bad now.

Thank you very mutch I will check again

Great video! Would you happen to know which cylinder is at tdc when the engine is locked with the tools? If the crank is 180 degrees out would that cause intereference in this engine?

Why don’t you buy the new locking tools? You can save lot of times avoiding removing the HP fuel pump and injectors, plus everytime you remove the injectors you must put the new teflon seals. The new locking mechanism it much easier to use, just remove the top oil-separator insert the first locking tool on the intake camshaft the insert the second one into the small hole present on the exhaust camshaft

Great video. I have the Citroën C4 1.2 to do. Do you have the number for the locking tools or a link to where to buy would be excellent. Also, did you use a kit or just replace the belt alone?

Are the replacement belts better able to resist the oil?

hello.I have 2015 C4 1.2, after I changed the timing belt + water pump, and thermostat, the service light does not turn off. What could be the reason for this?

Is it only the 1.2 litre puretech that has the wet belt? I test drove one yesterday and liked the car very much but after some research i came across this issue... Have i researched correctly as i cant find any similar issues with the 1.6 hdi and 2.0 litre versions? Any other known issues on the 1.6 hdi and 2.0 i should look out for?

my mrs car is going in to have this done i wasnt brave enough to attempt this what would you say a good price is for this we was quoted just under £700

Hi thanks for this video. I have a friend who has a 1.2 puretech in a Peugeot 308 that keeps getting a p0011 code. The belt was changed at main dealer in September not sure of history before ownership. Have changed both solenoids with China specials but still getting the code :-( Do we know what the logic is to throw a p0011 is it when the dephaser is being controlled and the cam sensor does not see the changes in timing that have been commanded? If that is the case then maybe we have poor oil flow rather than pressure due to sump pick up being blocked? @ Mr Auto Fixer do you think I can use 5.5mm diameter camera through oil drain to inspect the strainer? The camera I have has a lens on the side and is of good picture quality. Look like location is doable but will depend on distant between bottom of sump and pick up. Or am I barking up wrong tree reference the p0011

How much does it normally cost to have that job done.

And the cost for this repair? I have a 2019 Peugeot 208, 1.2 engine type HNP, GT Line. My oil pressure has just come on with fault code P15A8.

What age was this car? Because ive just had the same problem with mine

One of the main problems once these cars come out of warranty, is many garages just fit crap the likes of Euro Car Parts supply. Garages can buy the Genuine belt inspection tool and should be checking this on every service the car has (Yearly or 10k, whicever is 1st), not when it hits an oil pressure problem. These engines are smooth, economic and are made the way they are that enables them to pass emission requirements. I'd stick to Genuine belts with Approved Oil and Genuine Oil Filters. (doesnt appear so here?). Multiple parts such as timing sprocket bolts, end caps, crank pulley bolts (6 outta and main inner), crank seal, tensioner cover and evap seals should be replaced as a minimum since they are coming off. Vacuum pump and timing solenoids (x2) have gauze filters that should be inspected, cleaned and have the gaskets replaced also. Punters and garage's need to stop cutting corners and blaming the manufacturers for not maintaining these properly.