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Possibly did you compare to your original?

Clearly never worked on a rustbelt subaru if you think balljoints pop right out of these things lolol 😂😂

Camber bolts take a whole 30 seconds to mark and loosen. Not sure how much time you're really saving

@@DecosGarage If you do it the way Subaru shows, you only have to remove one bolt (lower ball joint pinch bolt) and there is nothing to mark or align afterwards. Good to take out the top bolt on the steering stabilizer (I think that's what it's called) out so you can drop the lower control arm down. I can replace an axle in about 15 minutes. 2 bolts. That's all there is to it. There is no reason to remove brake lines, control arm bolts, etc. Do it the easy way.

@@TomKirkman1 my way is plenty easy... plenty of ways to skin a cat. Thanks for the suggestion but I personally still find my way easiest. I assume by steering stabilizer you mean sway bar.. the endlink nuts rarely come off with spinning the ball socket on oem endlinks. Also not sure if you guys actually mean the ball joint pinch bolt or the lower castle nut.. subaru ball joints do not come out of the knuckle easy.. if you are talking about the castle nut that's not as bad but still have to knock the control arm off the ball joint. Personally seems like more of a hassle. You do it your way and I'll do it mine

@@DecosGarage A picklefork and some penetrating oil really helps on those rust belt cars! They can be tough. But at least it's only one bolt.

Hit the outer shaft with a deablow hammer with the cv fully compressed by applying steady pressure

@@DecosGarage thanks! could I use a rubber mallet as a substitute?

@@ash2092013 you could try but it might not have enough weight/force behind it

@@ash2092013 or just thread the axle nut on and use a regular hammer

@@DecosGarage what do you mean by fully compressed? my cv axle is stuck and ive tried tried hitting with a hammer using a 9/16 but it doesn't budge