√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

How does this guy keep a clean blue shirt. By the time I get my sockets out and start to remove the tire it already looks like I was dipped in a bucket of grease

This helped me so much on my fiancé’s 05 Subaru Outback. (Turbo) I’m no mechanic or anything but if I can find the instructional video on KZfaq then I can do anything pretty much. It’s people like this gentleman that make it possible for people like me to “DIY”. I don’t trust garages, because a lot of my personal experiences have been with crooks posing as mechanics. So thank you KZfaq guy!

thanks for taking the time to make this; you speak very clearly and slowly with excellent camera angles to see what you're talking about.

I made this procedure from your video. I hope it helps others. 1. Jack up the car and place on jack stands. 2. Remove the wheel. 3. Loosen about 75% the 32mm axle nut. Tap the axle bolt with a dead-blow to loosen the axle from the hub. It may need some rust spray to complete this job. 4. Remove 12mm bolt securing the ABS sensor wire to the strut. 5. Mark where the strut meets the knuckle before disassembly so that you can, as closely as possible, match the camber when reinstalling. 6. Remove the camber bolt and lower strut bolt 19mm. 7. Remove the axle from the hub. 8. Support the hub with a bungie cord connected to the strut spring. 9. Use a pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission differential. 10. Compare the size of the old to the new to make certain of compatibility. 11. Insert the new axle into the transmission. Make certain it fits snugly. 12. Insert the axle into the hub and tighten the CV axle nut by hand. 13. Align the spindle inside the strut. Reinstall the camber bolt, aligning the marks. The camber bolt goes in from the rear. 14. Reinstall the lower bolt from the rear. Tighten to 179Nm (129ft/lbs). 15. Remove the bungie cord from the strut spring. 16. Using the 12mm bolt, reinstall the ABS wire by securing the sensor wire to the strut. 17. Reinstall 12mm bolt that secures the brake line to the strut. 18. Torque axle nut to 220Nm. “Crimp” stack nut to the notch in the axle. 19. Reinstall wheel with loose lug nuts. Remove jack stands, lower car, and torque lug nuts to 90Nm.

Instead of giving the dealer $500-$1000 to replace both front CV axels, we found this video. Your instructions were very detailed, methodical, and helpful. Doing this ourselves would not have been possible without this video. Thanks a million!

Ok, I followed these instructions and did this with my Subaru today. It took longer than it did for him but the results were the same... success.

Just did this job and it took me a little over an hour. Service manual says to take off basically everything including the tie rod end, brake caliper and rotor, and more. All i did was take the two bolts off the knuckle that connect it to the strut (made sure to mark the alignment so it wasnt messed up) and that was enough to let me tilt the knuckle and get the axle out, much easier than what subaru recommendes

Thank you for making this. I had trouble getting the CV out and your video showed me to bend toward the brake caliper. Came out easy after that. 2x new CV joints for $140!

Thank you. This was a great help. I was able to successfully replace my Impreza axle in short time.

The best vehicle instructional video I’ve seen, you do an incredible job! Thank you so so much for these fantastic videos!

I like how you used hand tools, and didn’t go straight for an impact wrench. Very nice video, a big help, Thank you

Muchas gracias, muy clara toda la explicación, perfecto 10+, saludos desde Pichilemu, Chile.

Thank you so much for such a great step by step procedure for this. Mine went just like the video. It was a big help.

Thank you. Went just as it was supposed to with one caveat. The original axle was very hard to pry out of the differential box. I had to wedge a pry bar and kick it. Great video. Thanks!

Your guys videos are so thurough and amazing!

Excellent video! You guys do a GREAT job!

Torque specs. Brake & ABS: tight by hand. Camber bolt: 112 ft-lbs. Axle nut: 162 ft-lbs. Lug nuts: 74 - 89 ft-lbs.

Very detail / great tips and tricks . Thank you so much.

Thank you for posting. Excellent video. Nice work. Question to myself. Do I want to do the work on my 09 Forester. :/

Awesome video. Thanks for explaining clearly.

Super clear. Thanks for the great video

Thanks for the great video, I’ve done this several times over the years but unfortunately this 08 Outback is fighting me pretty bad - every bolt in the spindle is locked solid. Torch, impact - you name it. Resorting to tearing it all out and replacing. Even the brackets for the brake lines aren’t budging lol.

Very clear procedure, thank you!

Great video! My 17 years old daughter easily replaced the axle following your instructions. Thanks.

Must be nice to remove brand new looking axel nuts. Snapped my Armstrong 1/2" breaker bar on my driver's side. But, hey, awesome video. Saved me some money. Thank you.

Our 04 model the right front shaft cost $361 and I'm happy with buying quality parts also replaced the shaft easy as.

Awesome instructional video!! Thank you for helping me take control over my Outback's repairs. I no longer feel captive to the local mechanics for these issues. Just curious whose torque wrench are you using? What Brand?? Thanks again!

I’ve owned 2 outbacks and I swear I’ve put my local Subaru specialist shop owner’s kids through college replacing these damn things over the years. Well I finally bought a house and have my own garage…his grandkids are gonna have to fend for themselves 😂

What brand torque wrench are you using in the video?

Brilliant, Simple, easy to see video (example: prying that axle off, that had me concerned). Clear and concise with torque specs and bolt/sockets sizes, even tips, warnings and tricks for newbies possible hiccups and how to prevent them from becoming a major 'oopsie'. Even better, you offered tips and trick for those with no lift and without some of your tools. I'll be referring to this this weekend as I do both sides. What size punch/punches did you use?

Make it look Easy and with hand tools. Watching to see how to pull axles to drop transmission for new clutch. It is nice that these don't have the pin in the axles to remove them.

Awesome video...good job giving us the soup to nuts explanation!

I always find it handy to remove the sway bar links to allow the the LCA to drop a tad more for easier CV removal/install. Great videos, fellas!

Thank Brotha you’re video was very helpful 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽

So the inner axle is not bolted to or held in place by a roll pin or anything? It just slides and seats in there?

this is great , so easy ! but i will need someone to do it because i dont have a lift and its a bit tricky off a jack

Great job helps me a lot❤

Thanks for this amazin video

awesome DIY video 👏🏽

Anyone that’s doing this pay attention to the inner cv joint. There is a seal in there. Sometimes they fall out, or pop out when removing the cv joint. Or they stay on the joint. Always remember to reinstall this or that its in there before reinstalling the new cv axle.

I have a 2006 Outback XT, (Turbo, automatic transmission). Are all front cv axels for auto transmissions compatible? A1auto site doesn’t have an option for sub model on the vehicle search, so I’m guessing the axels listed for 2006 Outback with AT are the ones I want. I’m going to go ahead and try these ones because I haven’t heard anything negative about A1auto parts and I heard someone on a forum has 80k miles on one; whereas other aftermarket axels from say Carquest/Autozone I have heard over a third of people have issues with vibrations. I certainly am not going to get a remanufactured one or shell out 400$ for a Subaru OEM. Thanks I’m advance! Video literally covers the everything and so I feel comfortable tackling everything. The only thing I’m nervous about is seating it correctly/lining up the splines. I will need to buy the 32mm socket, gear oil, and rent a torque wrench as mine only goes up to 150ft/lbs. Curious as well if you know of A1Auto has any of the aforementioned parts/tools/oil? Sorry for all the questions and thanks again.

Does the metal flange have to be flush when installing, I have about a 1/2 inch gap. I paid to have it done by a fellow service member and they popped out. I’ve seen that they come in different lengths so if someone can tell me the correct length for a 2006 Subaru Legacy AWD it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Great video! Very thorough. Is this a similar process for the 5th gen 2015 outbacks? If not, do you all have a video on the 2015 outback cv axles?

Is it the same process for the rear ones as well?

Went through the removal and got the new axle installed ok. When I went to bolt the knuckle to the strut, it didn't line up. It seems like the strut is sitting lower than before and the spacing between the upper strut mount (to the body) and the upper seat for the spring is larger now. Has anyone encountered this before and know of a solution? Do I just need to compress the shock and insert the bolts for the knuckle? Thank you

I am assuming it is the same procedure for the other Subaru models?

I damaged the metal ring where the seal sits while pulling it with a seal puller.. I'm not sure if it leaks yet but should i be worried about needing a new tranny? Or is there any way to fill the deep indent?

just a heads up, the factory service manual states not to loosen the axle nut with the wheel on the car, as it could damage the wheel bearing

Let me simplify and clarify removing the 32mm axle nut ok . Get a good working 1/2 inch drive impact gun , not worry about messing with the endentation on the axle nut or about hold everything with the brakes or whatever. Just blast that nut off with impact gun and if you do not have an impact gun then leave the vehicle on the ground on payment ebrake locked transmission in gear , use a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a cheater bar , stand on the bar in the appropriate position that with break nut free. Once again no worries of messing with the center nut lock . But you will need to remove center cap from wheel.

Does this axel cause the car to shake when when stopped and in gear? Seems all the axels do this unless it’s Subaru

I’ve learnt a lot from your videos - thanks! Do you guys have a video on how to do a rear cv axle swap?

Some say aftermarket CV axles cause vibrations in the drive train. Do these ?

that is exactly a right method to mark the camber. Thank you for your professional demo.

Should be the same steps for a 2009 forester?

why mess with the camber bolts when you can just undo the lower ball joint and swing out the knuckle that way? looks much easier to do it that way.

Is there any video on how to do the rear axle?

Would same apply to 2018 Forester

This is an awesome video.

Wow this was so easy, I have 2019 outback and got hit by a car I was able to replacement everything but cv axle is stucked. I used cv axle removal and and pry bar nothing works. I ended uo just replacing the boot and regressed it. Any thoughts that?

Per the Subaru factory repair manual, do not use the tire on ground method to remove the axle nut or damage to the wheel bearing can occur.

Important question Is there a roll pin holding the axle into the transmission?

Yeah I accidentally yanked my CV out of the transmission when I was trying to break the ball joint on the lower control arm loose. Trying to figure out how to get it back in without taking everything apart has been a challenge

Are these TRQ axles any good or do you have to do this again every 20,000 miles?? Anyone get 60 to 80k out of these. That is a very low price for 2 axles, usually they are around $140 for just one and most auto parts stores.

am i able to use impact gun to remove the strut bolt which attached it to the knuckle ?? or it may get stripped ??

No mention that you have to put the retainer ring on it and you may have to remove the dust flange on the new one. Also, check the seal. Luckily they usually come with instructions.

So I am thinking that it is the same for a 5 speed cause that is what my 2005 outback is

Will this work for the 5th Gen as well?

How critical is it to have the opening of the clip facing down on install?

I don't think my car has a dipstick to check the differential fluid. Its a 2014 automatic. How would I check the level.

a darn good video!

These are ridiculously helpful👍

Thank you !!!!!!!

Why not replace the seal while it’s open? Great vid though all the same thanks

Is this the same process for an 09 Impreza?

Don't forget to replace the axle seals before you install the new axles. The seals are directional which means there is a left and a right.

Do you have to count the splines?

Perfect!

Yep, that axle nut is something else. Existing tools just bent out of shape, got there eventually.

You didn't show the worst part. Removing and installing the locking pin . Thanks

Just take out the lower ball joint pinch bolt and take the axle out that way. That's how the Subaru manual shows to do it and no wheel alignment is necessary that way.

My TRQ cv axle from 1AAuto lasted 20,000 miles before failure. You get what you pay for.

Leave the knuckle hooked up to the strut and undo the lower ball joint instead - then you don’t have to align the vehicle afterwards.

You got a big shop with a lift and don’t have air impact or a battery powered impact

It’s better to mark the head of the eccentric bolt against the face of the strut assembly. I have a silver marker just for this. I stole it from my son.

I am in South Africa owning the 3.0R outback same shape and model on this video. Please get me the contact details or email so that i can arrange shipment to SA. Thank you

It's not a real Subaru unless you have hose clamps wrapped around the exhaust heat shields! Great video though, thanks for posting this.

Camber bolt shows a washer on the nut side in the dealership exploded view page 4000

"After Woods"

This is not correct. If you take the steering knuckle off from the bottom via the pinch bolt on the lower ball joint, it's a 15 minute job and does not require any alignment because you are not touching the camber bolts or tie rod. Consult the Subaru technical service manual.

Mine is ticking... Drove it to the dealership just to have my extended warranty tell me I VOIDED something by DRIVING it to the dealership for repair... I should have had it towed. Now they won't cover it. GREEEEAAAAAT. Guess I'll do it myself. They're quoting me 900 bucks. I can buy all four for 300 bucks and do it myself. Thanks insurance, thanks for nothing...

In adding back the diff fluid, unscrew and dismount the snorkel, but REMEMBER the map sensor wire! Put it back when you are done or the check engine light will turn on and you will have to erase the code, or disconnect the battery, wait one minute, then reconnect it. Setting the clock and the radio back is your responsibility.

He didn't even say what the last task was to do!

Must be fake...he didn't remove the outer tie rod, left the caliper with the rotor on the hub. Sorry, I need to crank that spindle as far as it can go.

Too much wasted time in obvious explanations