There’s a C-clip that needs to be removed to take the CV joints apart for servicing.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic I just did mine, and I did the CV rebuild like he said. I did have to cut off the racer that the ball bearings sit in. I cut really close to the drive shaft splines on two opposite sides of the race, and then cracked the last mm with a pry bar, so that I didn't damage the drive shaft spline. You got to figure that a part like this coming from a junkyard has limited life on the boot, and you will just wind up repairing this again in the near future, Fresh CV with new rubber is the better option- The kit is $40 on RockAuto

Could be the front CV axles. The passenger side is notorious for continual issues. Crawl under there and grab the axle. See if you can push it up and down (like you bench pressing it). Do that to both sides in the middle and close to the CV axle joint at the hub side and the differential case side. Also confirm the front and rear driveshafts with a pry-bar on the u-joints for movement. If that’s not any of the issues, then check the calipers. A pad might be floating in the caliper itself from a clip falling out. I’d also suggest lifting the front and just checking the front end as well. As a Dodge guy, our trucks are notorious for a lot of front end issues. Hope these tips help you out, let me know how it goes and if I can help you any further.

I had zero vibration really before she blew. I just had the metal on metal jingle noise that progressively got worse. In some cases you can have vibration it just depends on how the joint fails. Driveshaft vibration can also be caused by the shaft itself being unbalanced. On some you’ll notice theirs weights installed. When replacing the u-joint it’s always a good idea to mark the shaft and differential orientation so it goes back in the exact orientation it was before replacement.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic that's for the Reply..I appreciate it .. I don't like to Pay for auto Repair..I really Enjoy Figuring it out..& Repairing it myself..make me Fell Worthy..& I like to Learn..I don't know it All by any means..good Day!!!

The driveshaft that had failed in this video had been on the truck for about 6 years at this point. I also grease the joints on a regular basis when I do oil changes and tire rotations. Since I installed with this newer used driveshaft I’ve had zero issues. I have the truck lifted/ levelled at 3” right now. I will be lifting the truck to 6” over the Winter. I’m also on 37” tall tires. I also haul/ tow and off-road on a regular basis along with a 120km round trip commute everyday on the highway.

You said $800.00??? WTF? You got screwed dude big time! Those can be bought new for under $400.00 American. With the exchange rate even at 25 percent you shouldn't have paid that much. In fact because those CV type shafts are junk I had one custom built with U-Joints instead for $425.00 American. Do yourself a future headache and do the same. That CV will most certainly fail again!

FishOnKZ Ummm I paid $100, and that’s $100 Canadian for this used driveshaft including it to be delivered/ shipped to my door. No way would I EVER pay $800 for a driveshaft, even if it’s OEM straight from the dealer. Also, I have had absolutely zero issues since I swapped in this used driveshaft with new u-joints. I grease and maintain on the regular. The driveshaft previously was already on its way our from the previous owners who were a roofing company who abused the absolute hell out of this truck.

Not sure I follow but I assume you’re referring to the splined shaft the driveshaft slides onto at the transfer case? You can definitely rebuild the CV joint on the front driveshaft. It just comes down to time/ money and if you or a shop is going to do the repair. Obviously will be more cost efficient for yourself to change out the CV joint yourself if you’re confident enough/ have the tools. Will be a bit more to use a shop to do it of course. In my case I opted in buying the whole new shaft since the old one was damaged from the CV Joint catastrophically failing. Dorman makes a kit for the 2003 4WD models, here’s the part number (NOTE IT MAY NOT BE THE EXACT PART NUMBER YOU NEED. CONFIRM WITH YOUR PARTS SUPPLIER) CV Joint: Dorman 1973-05278141

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yeah I was referring to that gear inside the cv joint. Its shown in the top left of your videos main pic. I got it all dissasembled but cant seem to remove that gear off the splines. Dont want to replace the whole shaft just the CV portion. Having a hard time finding that part anywhere, everywhere wants to sell me the whole drive shaft with CV. What happened to your cv exactly happened to my dodge. Ill check out the link, thanks for the vid, glad im not the only one who's CV blew! Mine was actually on FIRE when i heard it go out!

Yeah that kit I mentioned includes the new splined shaft and bearings for the joint. There’s a small c-clip that locks it in place. Have to make sure that’s removed and what typically happens is they seize in place and are stubborn to separate. It’s typically the reason why I also replace the whole unit on something like a CV Axle when those joints go, time verse money to replace comes into play heavily there. Haha holy crap, that’s wild. Mine thankfully had no more grease in there to ignite and just puked most of the CV out while I was on the highway, definitely heard things hit the floorboard haha.

Never would pay $800 for a used shaft, just sounds like I said that, I actually said “a hundred” as in $100 for it. If I paid anything more than that, I would be opting for new.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic shit I thought the same thing I was like fuck why didn’t he just get a new one it would be cheaper

Yeah a new one would’ve been great, but at that price for a new one from Dodge, screw that idea. Cheaper to buy a good used one (warrantied for 30 days) for $100 taxes included and replace the u-joint with a higher quality serviceable one for $40.

Yup, metal jingling sound was for sure there. Like you see in the video mine blew right apart. Pretty loud when she finally let go.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic was looking all over the internet last night to see why my truck was making the sound it was, finally came across you video, THANK YOU !!

Right on, glad it helped ya out. That’s my goal of these videos, straight forward information so the DIY guy can get it done at home and avoid costly repair bills.

Hi, Did you said that sometimes you had a vibration? Did it started around any specific speed? Sounds like wheel bearings?

Yup the sound did start off as a jingle sound/ metallic in nature like a wheel bearing and immediately failed fully the next day literally. I had been pretty hard on the truck for the previous 2-3 weeks before this happened so that’s my reasoning of it blowing. If this joint is indeed failing on your vehicle, it can cause some front end vibration. Hope this helps you out 👍🏻

Nope, I paid $100 for this used one. Would never pay $800 for a driveshaft, even on my lifted CRV, the new driveshaft from Honda costs $2,000 and one from the parts stores local to me range from $650 to $870... I opted for an aftermarket one that was $240 shipped to me for that vehicle as well.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic ahh okay I must of mis heard ya, same thing happend to my Dodge Ram 1500 the front driveshaft is pretty much shot

No worries, another guy in the comments did as well. Probably just as bad as mine I bet, surprisingly didn’t make any noise etc till she finally let go and tore the cup apart so it could bounce around.

Funny because it’s been in the truck for years now and not a single issue. Especially considering I abuse my truck like a truck and use it as it should be all the while having 37” tires on it. Not one single issue towing, hauling or off-roading. Rust scale is exactly that, scale. You’d be amazed at the amount of scale that’s on truck frames and the frame itself isn’t compromised. You can’t base anything upon scale build up, especially with anything in the rust belt.

Oh hell no would I ever pay $800 for a driveshaft that’s used. I paid $100 CDN for it from the wreckers, plus shipping of course. Had to come in from the USA and I’m in Canada. All said and done I think it was $160 CDN.

oh its the accent ...my Appologies lol sounds like you say 800$ lol clearly you say 100 ...good deal then...im doing mine soon as well bought one new 126$ usd including shipping

Haha no worries, someone else did the same thing awhile back as well.