Yup! Sure can. Thats another good trick I use. Especially if the spark socket doesn’t wanna pull the plug out because the o-ring inside fell out. It’s happened to all of us haha. Comes in handy to re-insert the plugs too. I see too many people just drop them in.

Nope, no need to drop the rack and pinion to access the front diff cover. There’s enough room. Just have to unbolt the tie rod ends to swing the knuckle out of the way to pull the front cv axles. That’s it. And you don’t need an alignment after either.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thank you for your time and help.

@nealecole8768 no problem 🫡

As with any parts, whether low or higher quality, there will always be a chance of an issue or say road debris damaging the boot. It happens. The noise would be a result of the boot cracking (I assume it split open, threw grease out and contaminated the joint). But with it being under warranty you should be able to replace it. Install and be good to go again easily with no added cost.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic No, the boot has not broken open, yet, but the noise started shortly after install.

@meblake7359 interesting, could be a chance of a failed one. I’d double check the axle by pushing it forward and back to see if the joint has failed. If it has movement to the front and rear, it’s the issue.

That’s your standard 12v car battery with lead plates/ acid/ water mixture within it. Up here in Canada we deal with temperatures as low as -60 Celsius, batteries can freeze in these temperatures pretty easily.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic ah ok thanks for the answer

If it is water and acid now i starter to think what chemical would make the water not freeze without interfering

@@666skimes well under standard usage of the vehicle, it will keep the mixture less able to freeze. Not 100% but still a better chance of it not doing so. And batteries freezing are more typical of one that’s left for long periods of time not driving. Or a battery exposed more so to the elements such as in the fender well and engine bay that’s more open and not compacted. A basic battery blanket can help this too. Plugging it in overnight to keep the battery blanket warm. And the blanket itself insulates the battery while not in use.

Laminated is the first glass (front). Tempered is the second glass (rear).

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic i see.. so you think a front house door w laminate glass is fairly burglar proof proof?

@@cliffcox7643 to a point it can be. But any glass is breakable with enough force. It’s definitely a deterrent. Lots of storefront glass windows these days have such glass installed. Also reinforced with metal mesh within the glass or bars with it as well.

Hello, great to hear they’ve been helpful. With a flashing check engine light, the problem needs immediate attention. It’s a way the computer is telling you there is an immediate problem with the vehicle and requires attention as soon as possible. (With a constant check engine light staying on and not flashing, it still requires attention but it’s typically less severity compared to a flashing one) It would be best to scan for the engine code that has triggered, then it would help narrow down the issue. Typically it’s going to be something along the lines of a failed/ failing coil-pack which would cause a misfire issue. I would scan the vehicle for the code. And then also confirm any issues with the coil-packs. And in all honesty, replacing the coil-packs on our CRV’s is a very good upgrade due to worn out ones impeding performance and hurting fuel mileage. Hope this all helps. Feel free to message again on here for any further assistance.

Thank you! Cheers!

There is no muffler delete. Both videos have mufflers (one with a pair of Thrush Welded and the other with a pair of Magnaflow) installed and still have the resonator installed in both videos.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic ok sweet thank u

Awesome. They’re definitely a very underrated muffler. Well worth their bang for the buck.

He basically dropped it down by the battery and left it hanging to atmosphere haha.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanicwell shit if it works it works i guess🤣

No problem. Glad it helped.

The steering column plastic is a two piece shell (top and bottom). Held in with Phillips head screws (star head). Remove the screws, and pull the top from the bottom to gain access.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thank you sir!! U R Awsome!

List of tools is in the description of the video in the information section.

Update saw that. Can you do a full guide from Start to finish. As I am a complete noob at auto care and trying to save 300

This video is the complete guide from start to finish. But in short form. It is a little hard to hear me, I didn’t realize the microphone picked up the slight wind/ breeze that much till I uploaded it. Using the tools I provided in the description, and following the video. That should help ya out pretty quickly in saving that $300 for something better. And don’t let spark plugs scare ya. They’re honestly one of the easiest car care things the average person can do. Especially with these older Rams.

Yup! And of course in an aircraft, the sooner you can catch something, the better. Engines failure at cruising altitude isn’t a good time.

They are probably aftermarket. Most manufacturers do not put them on OEM. I had to buy them for my Honda motorcycle.

It depends, older ones didn't really have them, newer ones do. You can generally purchase magnetic replacements from Toyota if your model doesn't have them since many drain plugs have the same thread. I usually just stick a small neodymium magnet onto my drain plugs

But for example part # 90341-24014 is magnetic drain plug for 96-04 Tacoma/4runner front differential

slap an old tv magnet on the plug and you're all set

It’s honestly hit and miss with manufacturers. I’ve dealt with brand new cars and trucks from factory that have had them, and different models that didn’t. You can get them relatively cheap ($10-$30) depending where you source it from. It’s really good insurance to have to keep up on any potential issues and catch them early without having to do an invasive inspection or completely drop the pan. Best to contact your local dealership and request they get you one.

Could be the front CV axles. The passenger side is notorious for continual issues. Crawl under there and grab the axle. See if you can push it up and down (like you bench pressing it). Do that to both sides in the middle and close to the CV axle joint at the hub side and the differential case side. Also confirm the front and rear driveshafts with a pry-bar on the u-joints for movement. If that’s not any of the issues, then check the calipers. A pad might be floating in the caliper itself from a clip falling out. I’d also suggest lifting the front and just checking the front end as well. As a Dodge guy, our trucks are notorious for a lot of front end issues. Hope these tips help you out, let me know how it goes and if I can help you any further.

Agreed, definitely a unique sound. I was pretty stoked to hear how she sounded with these Thrush Welded mufflers. Definitely a bang for your buck muffler at $40-60 a piece.

Awesome. Glad to hear it helped you out 👌🏻

Yup, as long as it works on paper, they don’t care.

For the most part, yes. Some take more effort.

I said the cheap-o aftermarket one popped out due to it not being the proper length and not the same length as the OEM Honda one that came out of the CRV, this one was shorter. Then I compared that aftermarket cheap-o one to a better quality NEW OEM spec NAPA one, which resulted in a better outcome and no issues as the length and build is much better. And yes, OEM Honda ones local to me were as much as $600. Also for comparison, the driveshaft is $2,000 Canadian at my local Honda dealerships. Thankfully a serviceable one can be acquired on EBay for $130 to $200 shipped. Within the CRV world Detroit Axle is another solid option with no complaints amongst majority of the lifted guys. I do the same thing with the local yards, grab them for $20 an axle, service, reboot and repack. Have a few on the shelf now for each corner.

Same

Haha yup, just don’t hit any potholes and she’ll be alright 👌🏻

Funny because it’s been in the truck for years now and not a single issue. Especially considering I abuse my truck like a truck and use it as it should be all the while having 37” tires on it. Not one single issue towing, hauling or off-roading. Rust scale is exactly that, scale. You’d be amazed at the amount of scale that’s on truck frames and the frame itself isn’t compromised. You can’t base anything upon scale build up, especially with anything in the rust belt.

You should be able to Google search the name and then your engine/ vehicle. Then it should bring up parts stores local to you that sell them. I got this through my local parts supplier that’s only within the province I reside in. You could try NAPA AUTO PARTS, I believe they carry the same brand as well. Hope this helps you.

Literally everything we use today in life is made in China.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic I just put on a new GSP axle. Lets see if it will last 2 years.

Thanks for the support, appreciate it.

Not a problem, keep up the good work

Personally for myself it’s always just been a thing to start with the front and work back. Also, should you have an issue with the rear plugs, at least you’ve got majority already swapped in, rather than fighting with plugs that wanna give you issues right off the bat. Like breaking one or the plug is stripped out and just spinning.

I assume it’s the gas version or the diesel version of the 5.9L engine, I assume it’s the gas version. The camshaft sensor if memory serves me right on that engine is located under the distributer at the back of the engine. It’s a ring under the distributer cap with a pigtail coming off it. It’s a perfect opportunity to change out the cap and rotor at this time as well. Commonly known as the Distributer Pickup Assembly in this configuration.

I have to take out the distributor cap?

@@InTheUnkown yup if it’s the style I’m thinking you have, it’s under the cap. As I described in my previous reply.

Haha, sure am.

That’s the spirit 🫡 😂

Sounds like a whole lot of projecting coming from you, especially unwarranted since nowhere have I made fun of anyone EXCEPT! Calling out those that are so quick to cry FAKE just because they think they’re edgy. Welcome to reality. Where such things NEED to be called out. And hilarious you cry about hand tattoos. That’s the most stale and weakest argument of anyone to even try and complain about. Grow up. Smarten up. You’re part of the actual problem clearly. Thanks for coming out.

Got that right. Quality of parts in the industry has definitely gone down hill now over the years. ESPECIALLY if you’re buying online, there even fakes. About 3 years ago I had a customer bring me spark plugs they bought online, they were NGK. The car ran like crap after installing them. Did an ohm/ resistance test and the readings were all over the place. The boxes all matched, the plugs all matched to new NGK ones I had bought to replace these fake ones. It was crazy how close they were to the real deal.

Again, nothing to gain by making fake content. Big dent? Haha you think a sledge hammer made that? Oh and why would I use a sledge hammer to hit the face of a rotor and at the top as well when logic is to hit the bottom and also hit the back side of it, and hitting it from the backside wouldn’t break it in this manner, Cute claim. And if that’s the claim, then the rotor would snapped off at the caliper then because ya know, the flex and such in regards to the physics of such a thing. And further proof by your logic then the entire top hat should be rusted, but it’s not. Crazy how that works too and therefore why a crack wouldn’t be rusted, especially considering it’s cast as well. Not to mention the top hat fell off and came with the wheel when I removed it. Nice try but big fail on your part. Thanks for coming out. Appreciate the view 👌🏻

No lying here lil fella, just facts. And funny you claim that because the rotor came off no problem with the caliper seized to it and required the caliper to be preyed from it. The line was disconnected and pinched in place with a pair of vice grips. Also, you’d be amazed at how many other times I’ve had rotors come in with this condition present. Also ones that have been so worn out they separated from the hub face but are razor thin. Thanks for coming out. Don’t speak on other peoples videos without actually having some facts, lest you wanna be called out for such false claims and schooled.

Haha exactly. JB Weld is amazing stuff. I have another video where someone used it to patch the engine block on a Hyundai Elantra.

Where’s the hammer strikes then? Exactly. There isn’t any. I LOVE when people come to my channel and make false claims in a desperate bid for whatever they’re trying to accomplish. And it’s funny you claim that meanwhile the caliper brake line was cut and pinched with a pair of vice grips. Then said brake rotor came off easily once the caliper bolts were removed. NEVERMIND the fact the top hat fell off once the wheel was removed. Thanks for the view though.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic dude, I said it looks like it. that’s how you broke it. It looks like hammer marks on the rotor. Why are you being a dick?