Holy shit that's clean so satisfying to look at the clean finished priduct

Thanks for uploading. Fascinating the steps that bike manufacturers skip to prepare a frame. Just that small detail of the bonding agent could prevent a heap of trouble

Hope you're training an apprentice...the knowledge is incredible!! 👌👌👌

''in the factory they don't do it'' This is true, I've had two very expensive Cervelo frames ruined by them not doing this very simple process. Luckily both were warrantied on other matters, but they did not consider the degrading of the frame through this corrosion a significant matter although it ruins your frame aesthetically and mechanically. I can't believe I paid top money for such shoddy manufacturing. I sold both new frames on and purchased well made bikes frames instead. You know what Cervelo told me to do....''Put some vaselline over the corrosion and delamination '' !

Why can't all engineers, fitters,mechanics take as much care as this? Great work chap 👍

Very interesting! You are full of interesting knowledge. Love learning from your videos! Keep em coming.

Thanks, a simple process done correctly. 👍

Thanks for sharing such a detailed video on this. Its great to see the care and effort you put into such a repair.

Thanks for the explanation Raoul.

Fascinating and informative.

Great video, thanks for sharing!

Really useful video, I've never worked in a shop where we've used adhesive 😐

Love it, very good video, important advice

Thanks for sharing. Hope can share more of carbon repair tutorial

An true expert in action. Chapeau! Now, how about teaching the bike industry - or at least outing the miscreants!!

EXCELLENT VIDEO AND INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for this : top knowledge

Hi Raul - Thank you so much for producing an excellent series of videos. Why is it so ridiculously common to see the use of stainless bottle mount bolts which offer unneeded high torque up and release setting ? Also why is it that little if ever use is made of thread sealants on bicycles and not thread locking compounds as thread sealants perform much better than greases. Greases are easily removed by detergents - High pressure water jet cleaning - Corrosion - Atmospheric contaminants and variances inTemperature conditions. THREAD SEALANTS can offer a variety of superior performances over greases - Typically : Reduce galvanic corrosion in dissimilar parent metals - Provide Complete insulation from Atmospheric conditions - Offer specific torque up and release settings relevant to material requirements and assist in keeping cohesive integrity and longevity of materials and sealant.

Thats the way "they" should work, we pay 12000 €'s for a bike and the finished product don't justifies the value. Good job Mr. Luescher !!!

I use those binder sticky circles to repair paper holes around those inserts, seals off the inserts perfectly!!

I had this frame in the same colour ways. Sold it to get a disc bike with wider tyre clearance. Kinda wish I hadn’t. This was my favourite bike I’ve ever owned

Great video, thanks for sharing. I’m about to do similar to relocate a FD hanger lower on my seat tube. Can only find Aluprep and Alodine in huge quantities in Australia. Any ideas where I can get my hands on a thimbleful?

Really awesome! Would you please consider uploading some UT scanning tutorial for newbies to scan their own frames?

I have this happened on my Trek Emonda ALR. Need to fix it because the bottle rattles now... Thanks for the tips!

Thanks Raoul, fascinating to watch. Curious with a water bottle cage insert what not just use stainless steel over aluminum?

Thank you.

What sort of bonding agents are preferable depending on the application?

Great video, Raoul. Any thoughts on stainless steel rivnuts instead of Al?

Great video. Can you apply the same technique on a mudguard attachment insert on a carbon fork?

With the right tools it’s quite a simple operation

Can you do a video on your carbon repair process?

Hi, I have a problem on a CUBE MTB. The Bearing of the chainstay has play, in an aluminium frame Iwould go ahead an glue it in with Loctite 648. Can I use the same method on a Carbon frame?

I'm surprised the bike frame doesn't get all scratched up on that dirty workspace. You need something soft... like a princess blanket. ;)

Outstanding content! Thanks a lot for sharing. I have a question, I want to drill new holes on the lower tube for a bottle cage, I know I will be cutting some of the carbon threads, but isn't it like the manufacturers do? It seems like they mold the frames and then drill those holes, isn't it?

Interesting video. Thanks. What are your thoughts about leaving press fit by some manufacturers? That means more aluminium is the frame with the risk of corrosion??

Great vid Raul! When installing new rivnuts after drilling new holes in a carbon tube, does there need to be any carbon reinforcement added to the surrounding area prior to installing the rivnuts with epoxy?

Could I do the approximately same operation to change an aluminum thread insert in a carbon frame (where the rear wheel axle enter)

I've been told by my bike store and Ridley that its up to me to do this for a stripped out rackmount after 1 year of use! So I'm hoping to do this right since my mount is inline in the seatstay so there is mm's for room for error. Was wondering where I could source good quality rivnuts online? and typical sizing?

Hi, nice vid. Is it possible to use stainless steel rivenuts to replace the alu ones? I think they will last even longer.

They do make rubber rivnuts with metal threads. They are for vibration damping and electrical insulation

Hi. Love the video series and helpful content. May I ask what would your choice be regarding replacing bottle cage mounts on a 6031 alloy frame. Which would you use - Alloy or 304 Austenitic Stainless steel Rivnuts ? Many thanks and happy pedalling 🙏

I had an old Trek 8900 frame that epoxied threaded external posts to the carbon tubes instead of drilling them so you'd use nuts instead of bolts to affix the water bottle. No compromising tube strength, no galvanic corrosion. Superior design by far.

Hi, thanks for the video 👍 I watched this as, after much deliberation, I think I’m going to install 3 rivet nuts in my Kinesis ATR V1 carbon fork to carry more water. I’ve come to the view that the 3 holes will be in the neutral axis of the fork so shouldn’t impact strength and if properly bonded as you show should be ok. But….. thought I would reach out for an opinion from a carbon expert before I make a daft move. Do you think doing this would be insane, moderately sensible or absolutely fine….. if done with care? Thanks for any thoughts, I know it’s a bit of a difficult question to answer.

Would grease on the bolt treads help keep moisture out from the frame fitting enough?

Question, do you need to follow the same steps if you use stainless steel inserts?

Luescher Teknik how come you dont anodize the AL inserts sd well as the obvios bonding needed? I thot that prevents the interface corrosion in general and additionally it would stop the exposed AL from oxidizing.

this happened to a mounting point on my carbon fork recently. a ton of white dust, almost sand like, accumulated then the insert just dislodged. my question is: is the fork still safe to ride? does it damage the carbon layup when the insert corrodes so much?

Hi Raoul, great video! I was just wondering why they use Aluminium Rivnuts instead of Stainless steel? Would Stainless be the better option for a replacement?

Any update on the Colnago C60 video? Coming soon?

What's the frame size for the 27.5 inch?

producers of $10K frames should study this carefully

🤙 👌

Most manufacturers place a fiberglass patch where rivnuts go to prevent galvanic corrosion.

can anyone please upload a link to the tools, the glue and the inserts

I've seen the braze on front derailleur inserts come loose on a $5300 frame before. Would have never happened if epoxy was used.

Anything that can help prevent this type of corrosion in the first place?

Nice job but instead of problematic aluminum, I would use a strong plastic insert- if I used an insert at all (I would not.) That 0.001 layer of adhesive will wear off in about a week. Instead, I would simply use a CF wrap method e.g., use carbon fiber to wrap e.g., a flat plastic or CF bracket. This can hold the bottle holder onto the frame. It would spread the forces out better and be safer overall. If anything, it will make that section of the frame stronger. Anytime you drill, shock or introduce aluminum into a CF frame, you are making it structurally weaker.

may i know what kind of glue you use to install the new thread??

are titanium inserts available (to prevent galvanic reaction with carbon)?

What would happen if I skipped the Aluprep and Alodine steps, used the epoxy, and then touched up the bare surface of the rivet with a spot of paint?

Raoul what is your technique for dealing with rivnuts that are loose in their socket and therefore can't be drilled out? Have encountered this several times over the years, usually when the bottle cage bolt is corrodded and the force needed to remove it exceeds the strength of the rivnut/socket bond. Seems a bit of anti sieze or grease on the bolt thread during assembly would help avoid this issue.

Please cut up one of these older isaac frames, that company from the netherlands, id like to see one of their frames from the inside. I wanna know if ive been riding something thats a potential threat to me haha

Instead of two component epoxy I would recommend acrylic glue as used for example for phone screens for the coating and insulating.

How about a layer of PTFE plumbers tape wrapped around the rivnut to instead of epoxy to insulate the aluminum from the carbon?

Whats the rivnut's usual size used in mountain bikes?

I could be wrong but where does the Galvanic Corrosion circuit come from?? You have a Carbon Frame - Neutral & some Aluminium Rivnuts : -ve Are the rivnuts just not corroding due to the salty sweat and leaking water bottles sitting on top of the rivnuts causing them to corrode?? There is nothing on the bikes where an electrical circuit is being set up to cause the electrolyte solution to create some very small electron wizardry. If this is the case then Stainless or another higher resistant corroding metal should be used. Either way, I still enjoyed your video :)

It looks pretty easy when the rivnut is tight and doesn’t spin wallowing out the 7.1mm opening. What do you do in that case? Thx for your wisdom.

Is it not somewhat counterproductive to bond the rivnuts in? The bonding could make it difficult to replace the rivnut the next time. Depending on the strength of the adhesive and the thickness of the bead you might be forced to use excessive force to remove it and risk delamination. Even if the insert is less likely to fail due to corrosion, it still might need replacing - due to stripped thread for instance. I almost stripped the threads on one of my bottle cage inserts (I presume they were overstressed during installation, I felt them starting to go and left off immediately). I was thinking about replacing them, first passivating the rivnut in some way (oxidising with some kind of acid) and using something like silicone sealant to prevent ingress into the interface. Also, painting the rivnut before installing could provide some insulation from carbon. In other words, you've shown us how to replace inserts the correct way, but it would be useful if you showed us how to do it the half-decent way, for people who don't have access to airspace-grade compounds and sealants, and specialist tools like rivnut pliers. For instance, one could use a bolt and nut of appropriate dimensions to pull on the threads of the rivnut and so tighten it.

I'd be a bag of nerves doing something like this.

Will stainless inserts work here ?

Q. where would one source all the items needed?

Can't understand that manufacturers who sale us carbon frames at very high prices saying that it's partially because it's labor intensive and they skip an operation that would cost them almost nothing and would add less than a minute of processing in a manufacturing environment. But then again, I'm not surprised by anything in an industry (not the only one) where accountants are responsible of final manufacturing decisions.

propper!

What's the point of using epoxy? you can't insulate it from behind and the way the rivnut works is to mechanically crimp so you won't get any insulation from it. Unless I've missed something.

Why not use stainless steel rivenut ?

Awesome video! I make simular content. Would be great to get your feedback

This is not a DIY effort. Don't try this at home kids. BTW, wouldn't Ti inserts last indefinitely? Is there anything we can do to minimize the corrosion and prolong the life of the factory inserts?

Would this “rubber isolation brass threaded insert” offer a possible longterm solution; www.junoindustries.eu/en/products/range/rivet-nut/rubber-rivet-nut-from-specialinsert-type-rubber-nut.html www.junoindustries.eu/media/productpdf/275/rubber_nut_rev01en.pdf May require slightly enlarging the frame hole 8tenths of a mm to accept the insert, however it requires no special tool to install.

Why are not the inserts anodized for protection?? Oh, they will increase in price by.. almost nothing per mille.. I understand.. Rgr

All this work to save a Pinarello.... just toss it and get a Time.

My titanium frame doesn't seem to have this problem. The bottle bosses are welded in. Did I mention that it's titanium?

So ... two different chemicals, a specialist tool and a special glue and some isopropyl alcohol. I think I might take a trip to the local bike shop and ask them to do it!

If you don't have a rivnut tool or want more robust threaded inserts, you can buy stainless M6 Tee nuts, cut the teeth off, scuff them with the rotary tool, bond them in the hole with JBweld, flat side up, and press a couple layers of CF over the top to really lock them in place. Take care and it'll even look nice.

that would be less than ideal when talking about destroying a 6k frame LOL

I thought those things were anodized.