That's good to know, thanks!

That was a pro tip, thank you.

Haha, no problem, it's always great to hear that people are able to use something from my videos. :)

That's a fair view.

Randy, thank for the feedback! I had another '66 before this one and it had the AT with the those lines you mentioned. They were in the way of a lot of the work I wanted to do with that car, I feel your pain. The Arning mod will be a great little "freebie" for your car. Heads up, watch out for the shims on the back of the Upper Control Arm, they fall off easily and can be a bit of a hassle to manage them while moving the UCA in and out of place. Good luck!

Awesome, I’m glad it worked out. 😁

Thanks for the info!

Awesome, good luck, you've got this!! :)

Awesome, I'm glad it helped! :)

Good luck!

Thanks!

You and me both!

Glad it helped!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks! That's a good idea, it would be nice to pull some of those small metals shavings out that never make it to the filter.

It should be more or less the same process on your car, good luck!! :)

Glad you enjoyed it!!

Thanks!

No problem 😊

Awesome, thank you! Yes, it's a copper based anti seize. Honestly, I don't know if needs to be on those particular bolts, but since then I have removed that bar a dozen times for various projects and it's always been tight (the bolts didn't work them selves loose) and I don't struggle with any rust on those bolts. :) On a side note, I couldn't recall what you were talking about, I had to go back a rewatch the video. Wow, that video was bad. Music is too loud and I look uncomfortable in front of the camera. Not that my videos are Oscar-worthy today, but they are better. :)

Thanks! For jack points, I use the rear axle, the two frame locations in the rear where the front end of the leaf springs attach, the two frame rails just outside of the transmission tunnel, and the subframe brace under the oil pan. I have used the pinch locations that are sort of under the door hinges, but I've received an earful about how that's not a good place to lift the car, so I haven't done that in a while. However, it's funny you ask about lifting locations because I made a small mistake last week using the subframe brace as a lifting point. The short version is the car slipped off the floor jack while I was lowering it back down and the metal "puck" of the floor jack went right up inside oil pan and crushed it. I tried turning over the engine by hand and after about a half turn the crank hit the pan. Pulled off the pan and everything was fine, except I needed a new pan. I took that opportunity to check the rear main seal (I suspected it was the reason I had a leak in the back) while I wait for a new oil pan to arrive. The result will be this Thursday's video, replacing the rear main seal. I don't mention the reason why I pulled the oil pan to begin with, I'm kind of embarrassed about it. Now you've got some "insider information" on this week's video. :)

I have never used the 4-piece, so I don't have anything to compare it to. I do know that the corners have to be really clean, so the gasket fits down inside. You can put some Gasket Maker on the rim of the oil pan, sometimes that helps any weird spots. :)

I've heard some mechanics put oil back in within a 1/2hr, and others give it an hour or two. Due to the schedule I work on my projects, there's often some time between parts going on, so I've never had an issue with the permatex stuff not working. I'd like to believe the folks that rebuild the entire engine between each drag race on the pro circuits don't have issues with stuff like the permatex seals not holding up, but then again, they rebuild everything in like a half hour, so...... :)

The service manual says 7-9 ft-lbs on the perimeter bolts, and 9-11 ft-lbs on the four end bolts. I should probably follow that as that's what Ford says, but I just snug them up good. There's no load on those bolts other than the weight of the oil and the oil pan, and the pressure in the oil pan is essentially zero. I've never had a leak from the oil pan gasket, so I'm either tightening the bolts enough, or I'm just lucky. :)

Thank you! I use a 7/8" socket.

@@AndyKruseChannel Just picked one up. Thanks for the quick response! Enjoy the rest of your day

I sold that car a few months ago, but it didn't leak one drop from the time I installed that gasket until I sold it. I'm going to be doing that same gasket on the new car, I expect it to do just as well. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thank you

If you applied any gasket sealant/maker to this gasket, it will be difficult to reuse it. Unfortunately it's difficult to find the leak on these motors, meaning it could be the corners as you described, the gasket not mating with the pan, the rear main seal, the flywheel/flexplate bolts not having loctite on them, etc. And when you go to pull it off, it may not be obvious where the leak is coming from. You are likely just going to have to pull it all off and start over. While you're there, you might as well go after that Rear Main Seal too. Good luck!! :)

Sorry Brotha, I don't know on that one. I know at least the one end will drop by pulling the idler arm off its post, but I'm unsure about the other end. Although, it may be enough to get you the clearance you need. :)

The pan won't come out if they're down. Put a socket on the crank bolt, turn it clockwise about 1/4 turn, try to remove the pan. Continue until the pan can slide out. However, it's easier to just lower the steering linkage by unbolting the Idle Arm from it's pivot mount, then you don't have to worry about the crank position. :)

OS13260T. I actually made this video about a month ago and I'm happy to report no leaks!

Great! My pan has the indentions like you have on the pan that you took off.

If you're up for it, I'd definitely say do it yourself, especially if you were planning on spending $350 because you could use some of that money to buy any tools you don't have and in the end you'll still have the tools. I think with this video and the videos I have done around replacing the rear main seal, so should have enough info to tackle this job. I'm guessing the Falcon is not your daily driver, so take your time, write stuff down if you need to, rewatch the videos, and get'r done! These kinds of engine maintenance tasks can seem a little overwhelming or difficult, but right around the half-way mark you'll notice that it's no where near as scary as it seemed in the beginning and you'll have a new skill at the end. That sense of accomplishment is intoxicating, it feels really good when you can take on something new like this and crush it. Good luck Brotha, you got this!

Andy what torques settings did you use for oilpan and rear main bracket

@@georgea5478 65 ftlbs on the rear main cap, about 14 ftlbs on the oil pan bolts.

The one I have 2457-20, and it's been a fantastic tool, I'd recommend one for sure! However, if I were to do it over again, I'd get the next model up, the 2557-20. :)

I imagine it's very close. In the simplest form, we're taking off the old cork gasket and installing a new rubber-molded style. Most cars have this type of gasket option, the 200 should be nearly the same. :)

Thanks! Haha, sometimes they're really dirty. Sometimes it takes a while to film what I'm doing, even multiple days during modification or part swap. I work during the day so I only get the evening and weekends to work on the car. There's a chance that if my hands are clean, it's been a while since the last part I filmed. ;)

The oil pickup screen looks worse than it is. Haven't had a problem using the one piece on all three of the classic Mustangs I've owned and the four engines between them.

Wow, not sure how that happened?! I guess it's time to buy a new motor, but with some fancy new go-fast parts?! :)

The engine in this video has flat tappet. 🙂

That bolt is easy if you use an 18 inch extension on the end of a ratchet. :)